1. 1
INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
Niagara Textile Ltd

2. 2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
A number of people have made significant contributions in preparing this
report. Their insights, advice and suggestions helped me a lot. I would like
to pay special thanks to Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, the Head of the
department of Textile Engineering, “Southeast University”, for continuously
guiding us about the development and preparation of the report. He has
enriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant improvement of
the report. I would also like to express my heartfelt thanks to my
supervising teacher Mr. Adnan Zaber Mahmud for his encouragement &
valuable suggestions for incessant improvement of the report.
I would like to express our sincere gratitude to Md. Abraruzzaman
Diamond, General Manager, “Niagara Textile Ltd”, who has allowed me to
work in his organization within a congenial atmosphere during the industrial
training period.
I recognize Md. Feroj Iftekhar, Deputy Manager (Admin) for managing my
internship and for providing sincere help in all administrative and technical
matters while working in the organization. My heartfelt thanks go to him for
allowing me to perform my industrial attachment in the NIAGARA Textiles
Limited.
I express my heartiest thanks to Deputy Manager & Assistant Manager,
Knitting, Dyeing & Fishing, Garment, Accessories and merchandising for
helping to get proper information about every section during industrial
training. I would like to especially thank to my all of seniors of my university
whom are working in the “NIAGARA Textiles Ltd.” for helping me
practically & for showing me the right path.
My sincere appreciation goes to the entire “NIAGARA Textiles Ltd.” team
for extending their hands of cooperation throughout the training period.

3. 3
Executive Summary
Since 1980 to till date the Apparel sector of Bangladesh has conceded through
different huddles & obstacles and now has reached a stage where it can compete
with all its competitors in price and quality as well as assortment in this
scenario. Niagara Textile LTD. is a young & dynamic composite Knit Garment
Industry. Though incorporated in the year 2000 as a private limited company it
came into existence in late March 2001. The mill being established at Chandra
circleUnion-Atabaha, Kaliakair Gazipur, Bangladesh aspires to create a niche
within a short period of time in the highly competitive global market of knit
garments. Promoted by a team of young and dynamic visionaries, Niagara
Textile LTD is a 100% export oriented composite knit garment industry. It
possesses all the latest machineries from the European countries with few from
the United States of America, Japan, & Taiwan. The entire plant has been
installed & erected by foreign and local engineers jointly under the same roof.
The total plant is located in total 16 floor with an area of more than 2,65,500
square feet. The factory is well equipped with high performance machinery and
experienced technicians & a group of Smart executives are engaged here to
ensure the Compliance management for quality and customer happiness. We
can produce international standard fabric and garments of any quality and
quantity. Niagara Textile LTD always keeps pace with latest technology of
Textiles industry. The products of the unit have been classified in such a manner
which shall meet the increased demand of the Europeans, USA etc. market
fulfilling all the criteria required by the buyer.
Introduction

4. 4
If the theoretical knowledge is a glass of water then the practical knowledge would be
drinking of the water. It is always very easy to make a man understand about a firebox by
showing and lighting practically rather than describing theoretically who has not ever seen a
firebox. So, for any technical education the practical experience is the most important as well
as the theoretical knowledge.
As we are studying in a technical line, it is always important for us to gather the practical
knowledge. Through our study life the only biggest chance for us to combine the theoretical
knowledge with the practical knowledge is the “Industrial Attachment period” that comes
only once in the education life. So we can easily realize the importance of Industrial
Attachment. And in addition the knowledge we gathered from the industrial training
reflects in the report of industrial attachment note book.
So industrial attachment is the process where the trainee can blend his theoretical
knowledge with practical knowledge increasing his/ her ability of work, skillness,
performance and attitude and so on. It also provides sufficient knowledge about
production management, productivity evaluation, work study & efficiency, industrial
management, production planning and control, production cost analysis, inventory
management, utility, maintenance and so on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be
accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and also improve courage and inspiration to take
self-responsibility.
As Industrial training is an integral part of the study for the students of Textile Technology,
so after the final exam of 4th
year 2nd
semester, I have taken this training at “NIAGARA
Textiles Limited”, a 100% export oriented apparel manufacturing industry. I tried my best to
prepare this note book applying my best efforts. I tried to gather all the necessary information
to make it a valuable for me as well as for everyone. I think it will help me a lot in future in
my practical life.
Place:
I have performed our industrial training at “NIAGARA Textiles Limited” which is located at
Chandra circle, Union-Atabaha, Kaliakair, Gazipur, Bangladesh. This is a 100% export
oriented knit garments factory. It consists of knitting, knit dyeing, finishing & knit garments.
Duration:
Total duration of training period was from 15th
October 2012 to 15th
December 2012 (eight
weeks).

5. 5
Table of Contents
Acknowledgement………………………………………………………01
Executive Summary…………………………………………………….02
Introduction……………………………………………………………..03
Table of Content ………………………………………………………..04
Chapter
No
Topic Name Page
Number
01 GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE FACTORY 05-19
02 KNITTING 20-29
03 BATCH SECTION 30-32
04 DYEING SECTION 33-46
05 LAB DIP DEPARTMENT 47-51
06 FINISHING SECTION 52-63
07 QUALITY ASSURANCE SECTION 64-67
08 GARMENT’S SECTION 68-100
09 MARCHENDISING 101-108
10 QUALITY CONTROL LABORATORY 109-111
11 PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL 112-113
12 MARKETING ACTIVITIES 114-116
13 MAINTENANCE SECTION 117-120
14 UTILITY SECTION 121-124
15 COMPLIANCE 125-127
16 CONCLUSION 128-130

6. 6
CHAPTER 1
GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE
FACTORY

7. 7
1.0 General Information about the Factory
Textiles and Clothing are the leading industries of Bangladesh in Respect of foreign Currency
Earning and Employment. We are a Knit Composite Unit Having Knitting, Dyeing, and
Finishing & Sewing Units under the same roof. It is housed in its own building surrounding
an area of 2,65,500 Sft. feet included Office, CAD & Sample 1 floor, Knitting 2 floor, Dyeing 1
floor, Dyeing Finishing 1 floor, Cutting 1 floor, Printing 1 floor, Sewing 8 floor, Finishing 1
floor & total 16 floor, in our highly protected area surrounded by wall and 4996 workers and
stuff. Niagara never allows slave, child or prison labor or even force labor. It always provides
all necessary safety measures & ensures the workplace safe, healthy & comfortable. Niagara
is going ahead to achieve their vision plan with our dynamic team members. Effluent
Treatment Plant (ETP) established for hazard free environment. The determination to achieve
superior customer service and on time delivery has earn Niagara’s recognition as an
invaluable player and the desire to succeed in customer satisfaction with every order makes
the Niagara’s team even stronger its these fundamental that keep this unit in the game and
wining every time. Since the beginning it has a very good reputation as a financially sound
and ethical business house. It has a long term association with selected factories, some of
them are certified in terms of social and quality compliance by world’s highest rating bodies,
and outstanding sourcing capabilities. Thus Niagara’s has been able to prove itself to be a
reliable supplier for knit item in any style and design. Niagara is also ISO & WRAP certified.

8. 8

9. 9
1.1 Factory Profile In Brief
Corporate and Financial Information
Corporate Name : Niagara Textiles Limited
Incorporation : C-41635(994)/2000
Type of ownership : Private Limited Company
Nature of the Project : 100% export Oriented Company
Number of Owners : 04
Motto : Niagara is committed for excellence
Workforce : 5000 (Approx.)
Membership : BGMEA –
BKMEA – Membership no : 594-A/2001
IBWF –
Year of the establishment : 2000
Year of the Operation Started : 2001
Our Bankers : Shahjalal Islami Bank Ltd.
Islami Bank Bangladesh Ltd.
Bank Alfalah Ltd.
Dutch Bangla Bank Ltd.
General Terms : All payments have to be made with
confirmed Irrevocable letter of credit at sight.
Our Wings : Knitting
Dyeing
Printing
Garments
- Cutting
- Sewing
- Finishing

10. 10
Contact Address :
Our Board of Directors
Chairman : Mr. Ahsan Habib
Managing Director : Mr. Md. Nurul Hasan
Director : Md. Shahinoor Islam
Contact Person Concern department Contact Information
Md. Abraruzzaman Diamond
Genaral Manager
Plant Email:diamond@niagaratex.com
G M Taj Mahmud
Deputy General Manager
Marketing E-mail: taj@niagaratex.com
Md. Mabubur Rahman
Manager – Merchandising
Merchandising E-mail:mahbub@niagaratex.com
Md. Faruque Hossain
Manager – Compliance
Compliance E-mail: faruque@niagaratex.com
Md. Feroj Iftekhar
Deputy Manager, Admin
Administration Email: feroj@niagaratex.com
Head Office : 27, Bijoy Nagar
Suit No. C – 1 (1st floor)
Dhaka - 1000
Bangladesh
Phone # 088-02- 9352328, 9340945, 9347303
Fax # 088-02-9353480
Web Address: www.niagaratex.com
E-mail: info@niagaratex.com
Factory : Niagara Textiles Ltd
Chandra circle
Union-Atabaha, Kaliakair,
Gazipur, Bangladesh
Tel: 88 02 9289127, 06822 – 51233-4
Fax: 06822 – 51231
Web Address: www.niagaratex.com
E-mail: info@niagaratex.com

11. 11
1.2 Main Product: T-shirt, Polo shirt and different types of Men’s, Lady’s & Kid’s wear in
varies kinds of knit fabric.
1.3 Office Staff:
A large team of Technical personnel are directly working, assisting the workers &
Coordinating pattern, cutting, sewing, quality & finishing-packing. About 575 people are
working as a Supervisor, Line chief, Floor in-charge, Section Manager.
1.4 Quality Policy:
Niagara Textiles Ltd. Is totally committed to provide quality products that always meet the
needs and expectations of customers for reliability, safety, economy and on-time delivery of
shipments. To achieve this objective, Niagara Textiles Ltd. provides all the necessary
resources to ensure a well equipped and adequately trained, and experienced manpower to
take proper care of customer requirements. Niagara Textiles Ltd. Emphasized that quality is
the shared responsibility of its entire staff. The company ensures that all personnel are
familiar with, and work to the company’s work practices as well in conformity with the legal
and other obligatory requirements and are determined to comply with the requirements of
Buyer’s expectation e.g. code of conduct, social compliance and continually improve its
production and Quality Assurance Department. To manufacture quality products and
Customer satisfaction is the company’s goal.
1.4.1 Quality Vision:
We have set a vision for our quality management by the named Vision 2020 (Quality). By
this time period we are committed to be best one arena of Quality in Textile Manufacturing.
1.4.2 Quality Team:
We have developed and maintained a skilled and experienced Quality Team to implement our
quality policy and to ensure the quality of our products.
1.4.3 Quality Control Circles:
We have developed 18 Quality Control Circles at our factory who are working dedicatedly
(self) for the workplace problem solving which problems could be hampered the quality of
our products.
1.4.4 Training and Development:
We conduct different types of Training, Seminar and Workshop on Quality Improvement for
personnel of quality department regularly.
1.4.5 Quality Checking and Maintenance:

12. 12
• Total goods are checked before shipment for quality assurance.
• Yarns are lab-tested for pilling resistance, color fastness etc.
• All kinds of raw materials are preserved in warehouses in a professional
manner.
• Production only starts after their approval & also prior approval on quality.
• All production floors keep clean and maintain all necessary safety measures
according to compliance.
1.5 Our Current Strength:
 We offer best quality products and services in a cost effective and efficient manner for
our valued clients /buyers.
 As part of automation, implemented in-house developed ERP database software for
MIS (Management Information System).
 We have an in-house printing facility.
 We have own carrying facility by own covered van for timely shipment.
 We have in-house CAD/CAM systems.
 We provide special and separate inspection room for our respected buyers.
 We have skilled and dedicated manpower (e.g. Operator and Helper) for our different
respected buyers.
 We have modern production machineries /equipments with updated technologies for
our quality based production.
 We belief in quality. To maintain the quality of our product we nursing a skilled and
dedicated Quality Team who are well informed about quality bench of respected
buyers.
 We have a Training and Development wing under the Compliance Department for
Workers and Employees Skills Development. We are very much careful to bring the
maximum output from our staffs and workers through proper training and
performance counseling.
1.6 Welfare Facilities:

13. 13
 Induction of workers welfare committee aimed at improving workers morale,
Job satisfaction & attendance.
 Law, Rules and Regulations are followed by Bangladesh Labor Act’ 2006 and the Code
of Conduct of our respected buyers.
We provide all necessary Personal Protective Equipments and monitor its proper uses for
our workers. We provide PPE to our workers according the department and the nature of their
activities
We provide tested pure drinking water to our workers and staffs.
The Factory has separate Prayer facilities for male and female workers and staff.
We provide transportation to our workers who come from a long distance.
We have set CC Camera at our factory to maintain the safety and security at the workplace.
We have a training wing under compliance department to counsel, train and develop our
workers and staffs through different types of training and counseling programs.
 We are always very much concerned about the safety issues of our workers. We manage
all necessary functions of safety issues very carefully.
 Subsidized lunch for staff.
 Free snacks for workers.
 Full time free of medical service provide by a professional doctor.
 Provision day care center for workers children & annual picnic.
 Cultural function.
 Each floor has sufficient number of washroom.
 Each floor has sufficient lighting to facilitate production.
 A large dining hall is in our factory including pure drinking water & well sitting
Arrangement.
 We provide maternity leave and benefit according to the Bangladesh Lbour Act’ 2006.
1.7 Our Philosophy:
 We all work towards a common goal of total client satisfaction by providing
prompt reliable and effective services to them.

14. 14
 We will give our best to our client to make them have a pleasant experience with
us.
 Our company is committed to offer best service by following a strict protocol of
our equipment.
 We will use best components and give high quality product, which we would do
for ourselves.
 We will constantly update our knowledge base and shall continuously engage in
using new techniques and procedures and thus deliver the best service possible to
our clients in the shortest possible time at most cost effective rates.
1.8 Our Core Values:
New Philosophy – Adopting new philosophy of continuous improvement and TQM
Integrity – Doing what is right
Accountability – Taking personal responsibility
Goal Oriented – Working to achieve our goal
Advancement – Committing to the advancement of quality in all aspects at all time
Respect – Treating people with dignity
Attitude – Demonstrating positive and professional attitude in all our dealings
1.9 Compliance:
Factory are obeying and maintaining international and local laws, Human rights, Social
compliance, Labor law and other rules and instruction by related department of Government.
1.10 Recruitment Policy:
 No child labor in our factory.
No gender discrimination in our recruitment procedure.
 There is no force labor.
1.11 Fire Safety Issues

15. 15
We have a detailed and realistic fire safety policy and plan to protect and manage fire
accident at our factory. To protect and to manage fire accident we maintain and monitor
following issues:
Fire Safety Equipments Details:
Trained up Fire Fighter Team:
We have a fully trained fire Fighter team of 508 members
Fire Safety Committee:
We have a fire safety committee 43 members
Rescue Team:
We maintain a well trained up rescue team of 452 members
First Aid Team:
We have developed and trained up a team of 176 first aid man.
1.12 Present Buyer’s/ Clients & Export Countries:
H&M
Fire Extinguisher : 209
ABC : 161
Co2 : 48
Emergency Exit Lights : 85
Fire Alarm Switch : 45
Hammer : 43
Sound Box : 24
First Aid Box : 43
Hose Reel : 43
Smoke Detector : 75
Gas Musk : 25
Visual Alarm : 08

16. 16
Tchibo
Target stores
US Polo
Lazy Jacks
Big Star
Charles Vogele
Dunnes stores
Woolworth
New Look
Unitessile
MASCOT
LOBLAWS
POINT ZERO
SEARS
Our Exported Countries
 European Union
 Japan
 Canada
 Middle East
 United States of America
1.13 Our Achievement:
- We have awarded as one of the best compliant factory for fulfilling major compliance
issues which was jointly organized by Labor Ministry of Bangladesh Govt. and
BKMEA on 1st May, Labor Fair-2008.
- We have also awarded by Naari Uddug Kendra (NUK) for fulfilling core standards on
social compliance issues.
- WRAPB, BSCI & Oekotex 100 certified.
- Fully Compliant with environmental ETP & other social welfare issues

17. 17
1.14 Our Production Capacity
Section Capacity
Textile division : 20,000 kg fabric / day
Knitting : 12,000 kg / day
Dyeing & Finishing : 20,000 kg / day
Cutting : 65,000 pcs./ day
Printing division : 50,000 pcs/ day (One
color basic rubber print
items)
Sewing : 60,000 pcs/ day (based
on basic items)
Finishing : 60,000 pcs. /day
Production lead time : 45-90 Days

18. 18
1.15 Area Details of our Factory:
Niagara Textiles Limited is a Garments factory with area of total 2,65,500 Sft. The detail area
description of our factory is following –
Garments Division: Area (Smt) Area (Sft)
Sewing 5574 sqm 67,000 Sft
Cutting 1858 sqm 20,000 Sft
Finishing 1858 sqm 20,000 Sft
Sample 186 sqm 2,000 Sft
Office 465 sqm 5,000 Sft
Store 604 sqm 6,500 Sft
Total 10454 sqm 1,20,500 Sft
Area (Smt) Area (Sft)
Bonded Warehouse 3716 sqm 40,000 Sft
Free Space 2787 sqm 30,000 Sft
Gross Total 22067 sqm 2,45,500 Sft
New Addition in Dyeing
Finishing
20,000 Sft
Grand Total 2,65,500 Sft
Textiles Division Area (Smt) Area (Sft)
Knitting 1394 Sqm 15,000 Sft
Dyeing 3716 Sqm 40,000 Sft
Total 5110 sqm 55,000 Sft

19. 19
1.15.1 Area Details According to the Floor Distribution:
Section No. of Floor
Office, CAD & Sample 01
Knitting 02
Dyeing 01
Dyeing Finishing 01
Cutting 01
Printing 01
Sewing Floor 08
Finishing 01
Total Floor 16
1.15.2 Different facilities and its quantity at factory infrastructure for our staffs and workers
are following
Facility Quantity
Dining 02
Prayer Place for Male 01
Prayer Place for Female 01
Staff Toilet 17
Male Toilet 98
Female Toilet 58
Total Toilet 156
Medical Center 01
Childcare Center 01 (07 Childs)
Canteen 01
Photocopy Center 01
Training & Seminar Hall 01

20. 20
1.16 ORGANOGRAMME (FACTORY)

21. 21
CHAPTER 2
KNITTING

22. 22
2.0 MACHINE PROFILE FOR KNITTING SECTION
Serial Machine Brand Origin M/C diameter Gauge Feeder QTY
1 Single jersey Pailung Taiwan 20" 24 80 1 SET
2 " Pailung " 21" 24 88 1 SET
3 " Pailung " 22" 24 72 1 SET
4 " Pailung " 23" 24 78 1 SET
5 " Pailung " 24" 24 78 1SET
6 " Pailung " 25" 24 90 1 SET
7 " Pailung " 34" 24 64 5 SET
8 " Pailung " 36" 24 69 1 SET
9 " Orizio Italy 30" 24 75 2 SET
10 Rib (8- Lock) Terrot Germany 30" 18 102 1 SET
11 " Terrot " 36" 18 108 1 SET
12 " Pailung Taiwan 34" 18 114 1 SET
12 " Pailung " 36" 18 120 1 SET
13 " Pailung " 38" 18 96 1 SET
14 " Pailung " 40" 18 102 1 SET
15 " Pailung " 42" 18 108 1 SET
16 Interlock(8-Lock) Terrot Germany 30” 22 120 1 SET
17 " Terrot Germany 34” 22 1 SET
18 " Terrot Germany 36” 22 2 SET
19 3–Thread Fleece Orizio Italy 30” 20 2 SET
20 Flat Knit
(Computerized)
Stoll Italy 84” 14 1 SET
21 " Kaohang Taiwan 54” 14 25 SET
Total No of machines 53 SET

23. 23
2.1 Knitting:
I started from knitting section as a part of my industrial training. To be a good Textile
Engineer it is necessary to know about different types of knitted fabric used in dyeing section
and also need to know different fabric faults, raw material of fabric, fabric composition,
fabric production process, quality assurance system and last of all maintenance system of the
machinery.
Source of Yarn for knitting:
 India (major)
 Local
Zarina knit composite
Squre yarn
Shohagpur textile
Malek Spinning
Hanif Spinning
Bextex Ltd
Kaya spinning
Jumuna spinning
Badshah textile
Saiham Cotton Mills
2.2 Process flow chart of knitting-
Yarn in cone form
↓
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
↓
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive
feeding arrangement and tensioning
↓
Knitting
↓
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
↓
Inspection
↓
Numbering

24. 24
2.3 Types of Fabric Knitted In the Industry:
2.4 Cost of yarn:
Yarn Count Combed Yarn Carded Yarn
40/1 3.65 $/Kg 2.65-2.7 $/Kg
36/1 3.00 $/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg
32/1 2.90 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg
30/1 2.70 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg
28/1 2.65 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg
26/1 2.60 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg
24/1 2.55 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg
20/1 2.50 $/Kg 2.15- 2.2 $/Kg
Types of yarn Count
100%Cotton 20s
, 22s
, 24s
, 26s
, 28s
, 30s
, 32s
, 34s
, 40s
Spandex yarn 20D,30D, 40D
PC (65% polyester & 35% cotton) 24s
, 26s
, 28s
, 30s
CVC(40% polyester & 60% cotton,20%
polyester & 80% cotton)
24s
, 26s
, 28s
, 30s
Grey Mélange(1%,5%,7.5%,10%,15%
viscose)
24s
, 26s
, 30s

25. 25
2.5 Knitting charge:
Sl
No.
Type of Knitted Fabric M/c gg Y.Count Off Season
(April-
September)
Pick Season
(October-
March)
Rate/kg
(Tk.)
Rate/kg
(Tk.)
01 Single Jersey 24 18-30 s/1 8.00 9.00
02 Single Jersey 24 32-40s/1 9.00 10.00
03 Single Jersey 28 28-40s/1 9.00 11.00
04 Single Jersey 20 16-20s/1 10.00 12.00
05 Slub Single Jersey 24 18-30s/1 10.00 11.00
06 Slub Single Jersey 24 32-40s/1 11.00 12.00
07 Heavy jersey 20 Any Count 15.00 16.00
08 Feeder Stripe Single Jersey 24 Full Feeder 16.00 18.00
09 Feeder Stripe Single Jersey 24 Ab.20%F.Miss 20.00 22.00
10 S/L,Polo Pk, Double Lacoste 24 Any Count 13.00 14.00
11 F.F. Lycra Jersey 24 Any Count 24.00 25.00
12 H.F. Lycra Jersey 24 Any Count 20.00 22.00
13 Lycra Pique 24 Any Count 30.00 30.00
14 Two Thread Terry 24 Any Count 16.00 18.00
15 Lacra Terry 24 Any Count 28.00 30.00
16 Fleece 20 40-10s/1 18.00 20.00
17 Fleece 20 34/10-18-10s/1 16.00 16.00
18 1X1 Rib 18 18-34s/1 13.00 14.00
19 1X1 Rib 18 34-40s/1 14.00 15.00
20 1X1 Lycra Rib 18 Any Count 20.00 20.00
21 2X1 Rib 18 Any Count 18.00 18.00
22 H.F.2X1 Lacra Rib 18 Any Count 25.00 25.00
23 F.F.2X1 Lacra Rib 18 Any Count 30.00 32.00
24 1X1 Rib Stripe 18 Any Count 20.00 20.00
25 2X1 Rib Stripe 18 Any Count 25.00 25.00
26 Waffle / Flat Back Rib 18 Any Count 30.00 35.00
27 Plain Interlock 24 Any Count 17.00 18.00
28 D.N.Interlock 24 Any Count 22.00 25.00
29 Interlock Stripe 24 Any Count 25.00 30.00
30 Lycra Interlock 24 Any Count 30.00 35.00
31 Pointal Rib (Jacquard) 18 Any Count 70.00 80.00
32 Engg. Stripe S/J (3 Colour) 24 Any Count 90.00 100.00
33 Engg. Stripe S/J (6 Colour) 24 Any Count 100.00 110.00
34 Engg. Stripe Lycra S/J 24 Any Count 200.00 250.00
35 Engg. Stripe Pique 24 Any Count 110.00 120.00
36 Engg. Stripe Terry 24 Any Count 160.00 180.00
37 Engg. Stripe Rib/ Interlock 18/24 Any Count 170.00 180.00
38 Solid Collar Set 14 Any Count 3.50 4.00
39 Tipping Collar Set 14 Any Count 4.50 5.00
40 Bitt Collar Set 14 Any Count 4.50 5.00
41 Flat Knit Bottom/Kg 14 Any Count 75.00 100.00

26. 26
2.6 different parts of knitting m/c parts:
Needle cam Feede sinker cam needle
MPF yarn breakage detector
VDQ pulley Fabric takedown mechanism

27. 27
2.7 Description of Production Process:
In every mill there maintains a sequence in production processing. It is also followed
in this mill where we were in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in list
below:
1. Firstly knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as according as
consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it.
2. Production officer informs technical in charge & knows about machine in which the
production will be running.
3. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision
about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity,
maintenance complexity etc.
4. Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length &
grey GSM for required final GSM.
5. Supervisor checks daily production regularity & make operator conscious about
finishing tin due time.
6. Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If
he thinks or sure about any fabrics faults then he calls for the mechanical fitters in
duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Then
he comes in spot.
7. After required production & final inspection in 4- point system, they sent in dyeing
section.

28. 28
2.8 Faults and Their Causes:
A. Holes:
 Thick thin place in the yarn.
 High tension in the yarn.
 Too much speed of the m/c.
 Defective needle.
B. Drop stitches:
 Yarn is not properly fed during loop formation.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.
 Defective needle.
C. Needle mark:
 Breakage of hook of needle.
 Breakage of latch of needle.
 Change of alignment of latch.
 Due to improper schedule maintenance.
D. Oil mark/ Grease mark:
 Excess oil/grease use in the m/c.
 Leakage in the oiling system.
 Bad quality lubricant is used.
 Mixing of one quality lubricant with another one.
 Jamming of needle and sinker.
E. Design variation:
 Variation of stripe in the m/c.
 Wrong cam arrangement.
F. Count variation:
 Different count of yarn package in the same lot.
 Different quality of yarn use in the same order.
 Variation of count in the same package in different places.
G. GSM variation:
 Variation in the stitch length.
 Wrong position of the VDQ pulley.
 Improper tension of the fabric during production.
 Wrong selection of yarn count.

29. 29
2.9 Production Calculation:
A. Production / shift in Kg at 100% efficiency
B. Production/shift in meter
=
=
C. Fabric width in meter
=
=
D. GSM Calculation
1. =
=
2 =
=
E. Length calculation
=

30. 30
2.10 Maintenance in the Knitting Section:
For proper running of the machine it is necessary to maintain the machine. This is done by
cleaning the machine after every 7 days. This is basically the servicing of the machine. This
is done because
 To maintain the quality of the fabric.
 To reduce the fabric fault.
 Removal of dust from the m/c.
 Cleaning of different parts of the m/c.
 Overall to increase the production of the m/c.
During servicing the following things are checked weather they are in good condition or not.
These are cleaned and also replace if necessary. These are
 Needle
 Sinker
 Sinker Cam
 Cam Box
 Cylinder
 Full Body
Remarks: Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical
fault of any machine the fix and work under technical in charge. Production officers take
account of daily production by running after the supervisor & workers so on.

31. 31
CHAPTER 3
BATCH SECTION

32. 32
3.0 Objective of Batching:
 To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other sources.
 Turn the grey fabric if require.
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria
 Order sheet (Received from buyer)
 Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
 M/C capacity
 M/C available
 Type of fabrics (100% Cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
 Emergency
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card
 To keep records for every previous dyeing
3.1 Knitting Fabric Inspection & Grading Based on the Forty points System:
The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of Quality
Control in the grey finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two primary
considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.
The grading has two primary functions: first, to classify the fabrics according to standard
qualities based on the end-use and customer demands and second, to supply information as to
the qualities actually being produced.
The Knitting fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a number of
points for defects as follows.
The First quality level 40 points per 100 Linear Yards
The second quality level (40-80) points per Linear Yards
The third quality level 80 points or more per 100 Linear Yards
3.2 General Instruction for the final inspection:

33. 33
All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards Mapping will be done
on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.
a) All effects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account
of points made to insure proper grading.
b) All fabric must meet specifications
c) At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide
whether the piece can be shipped as first quality.
d) The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and
check the lower quality.
e) Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll of piece will be cut. All
defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the price. Defects within the first
2 inches or the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.
f) Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be
included in the grading of fabric.
g) Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.
h) All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.
i) Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular
fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods.
3.3 Proper Batching Criteria:
 To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c
 To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
 To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
 To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
M/C in Batch Section
 Grey Inspection machine
 Turning machine
 The Machine is used to reverse the knitted face to back and back to face.
 The Machine has capacity blower pipe, fabric turning pipe, roller and folding parts.
Specification of grey inspection machine:
No of m/c : 01
Brand : Glory
Model : T1-02
Company name : Best leader machinery
Manufacturing date : 2007-6
Country : china

34. 34
CHAPTER 4
DYEING SECTION
4.0 ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING AND FINISHING:
General Manager (GM)

35. 35
AGM
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Senior Manager (Dyeing) Manager (Finishing)
Manager (Dyeing) Asst. manager
Manager (Dyeing) In Charge
Production Officer Supervisor
Dyeing Master Operator
Floor in charge Helper
Supervisor
Operator
Helper

36. 36
4.1 Machine profile for Dyeing Section:
SL Name of Machine Brand Capacity (kgs) No. of Set
01 Atmospheric winch PMM, Turkey 025 03
100 01
200 01
300 01
400 01
600 01
750 01
800 01
02 High Temperature Winch PMM, Turkey 025 01
300 01
DMS Turkey 025 01
150 01
300 01
450 01
ACMI, Taiwan 050 01
600 01
1200 02
1500 01
Total No. of Machines 21

37. 37
4.2 LIST OF DYES USED IN
NO. NAME OF DYES TYPES SOURCE
1 FUCOZOL YELLOW 3RF Reactive dyes BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE
CO LTD, P.T.FUCOLOR
CHEMICAL INDUSTRY,
INDONESIA.
2 FUCOZOL RED 3BF Reactive dyes Same
3 FUCOZOL BLUE EBL Reactive dyes Same
4 FUCOZOL BLUE EXN Reactive dyes Same
5 ELBEZOL YELLOW 3RS Reactive dyes ELBE INTERNATIONAL
LTD, CHINA
6 ELBEZOL RED 3BSN Reactive dyes Same
7 ELBEZOL BLACK-B Reactive dyes Same
8 ELBEZOLBLACK-WNN Reactive dyes Same
9 ELBEZOL YELLOW 4GL Reactive dyes Same
10 ELBEZOLORANGE F2R Reactive dyes Same
11 ELBEZOLT/BLUE-G Reactive dyes Same
12 ELBEZOLBLUE RSP Reactive dyes Same
13 FUCOZOL YELLOW UCX Reactive dyes BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE
CO LTD, P.T.FUCOLOR
CHEMICAL INDUSTRY,
INDONESIA.
14 FUCOZOL RED USB Reactive dyes Same
15 FUCOZOL RED USG Reactive dyes same
16 FUCOZOL NAVY BLUE
USB
Reactive dyes same
17 DIANIX YELLOW SEG Disperse dyes Dyestar, Germany
18 DIANIX RED EFB Disperse dyes same
19 DIANIX NAVY CC Disperse dyes same
20 DIANIX T/BLUE SBG Disperse dyes same
21 DIANIX BLUE ER Disperse dyes same
22 DIANIX YELLOW
BROWN SER
Disperse dyes same
23 TRICRON YELLOW E-
ACT
Disperse dyes T & T INDUSTRIES CORP,
TAIWAN
24 TRICRON RED E -ACT Disperse dyes same
25 TRICRON BLUE E-ACT Disperse dyes same
26 Polar White 4B k

38. 38
4.3 Raw material for dyeing:
Chemicals used:
Basic chemicals:
 Hydrogen peroxide
 Acetic acid
 Soda ash
 Caustic soda
 Common salt
 Glubar salt
 Bleaching acid
 Hydrose
Detergent:
I. PCLF
II. MA Scour AP
III. FEROLZUM
Anti-creasing agent:
I. MARLAKT CONC
II. ALBAFLUIDE C
III. MA Lube C
IV. Best anti-creasing
Leveling agent:
I. MARLADF CONC
II. Seragal PLP (LPF)
III. PRIMALEV R CONC
IV. Best leveller 723
Sequestering:
I. Hanko QUST
II. MARLA DM CONC
III. MA Stab XL
IV. Best SCQ 710
Peroxide killer:
I. P.Killer (PK)
Stabilizer:
I. MARLA PS CONC
II. Ultrafresh NMV-2
III. Argaprep MSS
IV. Primastab FF Conc

39. 39
Anti foam:
I. Antifoam 39A
II. Albafix SR
III. Jontex Fix 500
IV. Serafast CNC
V. Asufix EPF
Enzyme agent:
I. Boizep MC new
II. UNIZYME 600L
Softener agent:
I. E-31 (white)
II. Softener A-1000 (COLOR)
III. Matsoft NISB
IV. Softener S-300
V. Chemesoft CWS
4.4 Dyeing Process with Recipe
Light Color Process 100% Cotton
1. Machine Wash:
Hydrose (2g/L) +Caustic (2g/L) +Foaming Agent (0.5g/L)
30 min at 90o
c
Machine Washed
A. Acid (0.7g/L)
20min at 70o
c
M/C Neutralized
2. Scouring & Bleaching:
Detergent (1 g/L)
Sequestering Agent (.5 g/L)
Stabilizer (.8 g/L)
Caustic (3 g/L)
H2O2 (3 g/L)
60min at 98’c

40. 40
3. Neutralizations (Scouring & Bleaching):
H2O2 Killer (.8 g/L)
A.Acid (1 g/L)
20min at 80’c
4. Enzyme Wash:
A.Acid (1 g/L)
Enzyme (1%)
55min at 50’c, PH =4.5
5. Dyeing:
Ant creasing Agent (.5 g/L)
Leveling Agent (1 g/L)
A.Acid (.2 g/L)
Dyes (According to shade %)
G.Salt (According to shade %)
Soda Ash (According to shade %)
60min at 60’c
6. Neutralization: (Dyeing):
A.Acid (1 g/L)
10min at 40-50’c
7. Soaping:
Soaping Agent (.5 g/L)
20min at 70-80’c
8. Fixing & Softening:
Fixing Agent (.5 g/l)
15min at 40’c
A.Acid (.5 g/L)
Softener (1.5 g/L)

41. 41
4.5 Main Component’s of a dyeing m/c:
1. Mixing tank: There is a tank in this machine. Every chemical are used to put here.
There are some components here are as follows:
a. Metallic mixing part: It is used to mix any solution
b. Air flow mixing part: It is also to mix any solution.
c. Steamer: It is used to delivery steam in mixing tank.
d. Steam controller: It can control the amount of steam
e. Filter: It is used to filter the solution which is transferred in to the main tank.
2. Main tank: The chemical from the tank is transferred here. The pretreatment and
dyeing are completed here.
3. Monitor: It is situated at the right side of the machine. The commands are shown in
the monitor & the operators can work from these commands. There are also some
options for working properly & to obey these commands.
4. Unloading reel: There is an unloading reel for unloading the dyed fabric.
5. Three detectors: There are 3 detectors on the above of the nozzle are as follows:
a. Temperature detector: It is at the left side between these 3 detectors which can
detect the temperature of the main tank.
b. Fabric turning pressure detector: It is at the middle of these 3 detectors. It can
detect the pressure at which the fabric turning.
c. Atmospheric pressure detector: It can detect the atmospheric pressure of the main
tank.
d. Panel board: There is a panel board at the right side of the machine by which
programmed can be set up.
4.6 Checklist before operation:
Checking the program
Machine set-up.
Fabric weight.
Fabric quality.
Collar design (Tipping/ solid).
Rib designs (Normal/Lycra).
Chemical availability.
Power availability.
Steam availability.
Water availability.
Compressed air.
Manpower availability.
Fabric stitch is done properly.

42. 42
4.7 Amount of Salt, Alkali & Fixation time On The Basis Of Shade%:
Shade % Salt(g/l) Alkali(g/l) Fixing time(min)
0-0.1 30 10 20
0.1-0.5 30 15 30
0.5-01 40 20 40
1-1.5 50 20 50
1.51-2 60 20 60
2-2.5 70 20 60
2.5-5 80 20 60
Above 6 100 25 70
Black shade 100 10+0.5g/l NaOH 70
4.8 Dyeing Parameter:
(pH)
Bleaching bath pH 10.5 – 11
Neutralization or after bleaching pH 5.5 – 6.5
Bio polishing bath pH 4.5
Initial dye bath pH 5.5-6.5
After alkali addition pH 10.5-11
After dyeing pH 5.0-6.0
Fixation bath pH 4.5 – 5.5
Softener bath pH 4.0 – 5.0

43. 43
4.9.1 Temperature:
For cotton Pretreatment 98 0
C
For Cotton Biopolishing 550
C
Cotton Dyeing 600
C
During Turquise 800
C
During Isothermal 600
C
Red special 60 0
C
White dyeing 80 0
C
For Polyester Dyeing 1300
C
For Cotton soaping 980
C
Temperature during softening & fixing 400
C
For cotton hot wash (70-90)0
C
For cotton acid wash (50-60)0
C
4.10 List of dyes used in:
NO. NAME OF DYES TYPES SOURCE
1 FUCOZOL YELLOW 3RF Reactive dyes BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE CO LTD,
P.T.FUCOLOR CHEMICAL INDUSTRY,
INDONESIA.
2 FUCOZOL RED 3BF Reactive dyes Same
3 FUCOZOL BLUE EBL Reactive dyes Same
4 FUCOZOL BLUE EXN Reactive dyes Same
5 ELBEZOL YELLOW 3RS Reactive dyes ELBE INTERNATIONAL LTD, CHINA
6 ELBEZOL RED 3BSN Reactive dyes Same
7 ELBEZOL BLACK-B Reactive dyes Same
8 ELBEZOLBLACK-WNN Reactive dyes Same
9 ELBEZOL YELLOW 4GL Reactive dyes Same
10 ELBEZOLORANGE F2R Reactive dyes Same
11 ELBEZOLT/BLUE-G Reactive dyes Same
12 ELBEZOLBLUE RSP Reactive dyes Same
13 FUCOZOL YELLOW UCX Reactive dyes BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE CO
LTD, P.T.FUCOLOR CHEMICAL
INDUSTRY, INDONESIA.
14 FUCOZOL RED USB Reactive dyes Same
15 FUCOZOL RED USG Reactive dyes Same
16 FUCOZOL NAVY BLUE USB Reactive dyes Same
17 DIANIX YELLOW SEG Disperse dyes Dyestar, Germany
18 DIANIX RED EFB Disperse dyes Same
19 DIANIX NAVY CC Disperse dyes Same
20 DIANIX T/BLUE SBG Disperse dyes Same
21 DIANIX BLUE ER Disperse dyes Same
22 DIANIX YELLOW BROWN SER Disperse dyes Same
23 TRICRON YELLOW E-ACT Disperse dyes T & T INDUSTRIES CORP,TAIWAN
24 TRICRON RED E -ACT Disperse dyes Same
25 TRICRON BLUE E-ACT Disperse dyes Same
26 Polar White 4B k

44. 44
4.11 Chemical used:
Basic chemicals:
1. Hydrogen peroxide
2. Acetic acid
3. Soda ash
4. Caustic soda
5. Common salt
6. Glubar salt
7. Bleaching acid
8. Hydrose
Detergent:
1. PCLF
2. MA Scour AP
3. FEROLZUM
Anticreasing agent:
a. MARLAKT CONC
b. ALBAFLUIDE C
c. MA Lube C
d. Best anticreasing
e. Leveling agent
f. MARLADF CONC
g. Seragal PLP (LPF)
h. PRIMALEV R CONC
i. Best leveller 723
Sequestering:
i. Hanko QUST
ii. MARLA DM CONC
iii. MA Stab XL
iv. Best SCQ 710
Peroxide killer:
1. P.Killer (PK)
2. Stabilizer
3. MARLA PS CONC
4. Ultrafresh NMV-2
5. Argaprep MSS
6. Primastab FF Conc
7. Anti foam
8. Antifoam 39A
9. Fixing Agent
10. Albafix SR
11. Jontex Fix 500
12. Serafast CNC
13. Asufix EPF

45. 45
Enzyme agent:
 Boizep MC new
 UNIZYME 600L
Softener agent:
1. E-31 (white)
2. Softener A-1000 (COLOR)
3. Matsoft NISB
4. Softener S-300
5. Chemesoft CWS
4.12 Typical Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing
Fill Water
↓
Fabric loading & m/c run
↓
Caustic soda dozing for 5min at 40ºC (PH
10.5-11)
↓
H2O2 dozing for 5 min at 60ºC
↓
Sequestering agent, anti-creasing agent, detergent dosing at 80ºC
↓
Temp. Rise at 98ºC for 60 min
↓
Bath Drop
↓
Wash
↓
Fill water
4.13 Dyeing Faults:
 Uneven Dyeing:
Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment
 Improper addition of chemicals
 Improper addition of color
 Using dyes of high fixation properties
 Less control of dyeing machine
 Less circulation time
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment
 By proper addition of color and chemicals
 Correct circulation time
 By controlling the dyeing machine properly

46. 46
 Batch to batch shade variation:
Causes:
 Using improper dyes and chemicals
 Incorrect pretreatment procedure
 Batch to batch weight variation of fabric
 Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation)
 Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment
 By proper addition of color and chemicals
 Correct circulation time
 By controlling the dyeing machine
 Dark colored spots:
Causes:
 Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing
 Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade
 Too high dyestuff concentration in the dyeing bath
 Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment
Remedies:
 By ensuring proper dyeing condition
 By selecting proper dyestuff
 By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing
 By ensuring proper after treatment
 Patchy dyeing:
Causes:
 Due to hardness of water
 Due to faulty color addition
 Due to faulty injection of alkali
 Due to improper salt addition
 Due to improper pH of the solution
Remedies:
 By using proper sequestering
 By correcting the color addition
 By correcting the salt addition
 By proper injection of alkali
 By maintaining the pH level of the solution

47. 47
 Crease mark:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Due to high speed of m/c running
 Unequal pump pressure and reel speed
Remedies:
 By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed
 By controlling the speed of the machine
 Correct opening of the fabric rope
 Roll to roll variation:
Causes:
 Poor migration property of dyes
 Hardness of water
 Improper dyes solubility
 Faulty machine speed
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals
 Proper machine speed
 Using soft water

48. 48
CHAPTER 5
LAB DIP DEPARTMENT

49. 49
5.0 Definition:
Lab Dip development means the sample which is dyed according to the buyer’s
requirements. Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production
dyes planning done.
The main objectives in lab dip are as follows:
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectrophotometer.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved Lab Dip. (Grade: A B C)
5.1 Machine Profile For Dyeing Laboratory
SL Name of Machine Brand No. of Set
01
Spectrophotometer attached with
pentium-4 computer Datacolor
01
02 Spectra flash Model- SF 600x 01
03 Lab Sample Dyeing
Ahiba Nuance, Swiss 01
Fongs, Hong Kong 03
04 Dimensional Stability Test. Wascator, Sewden 01
05 Color Assesment Cabinet Veri vide, England 04
06 Washing Machine Ariston 02
07 Rubbing Tester Crock Meter Roaches, England 01
Total No. of Machines 14

50. 50
Washing machine & Spectrophotometer Lighting Box
5.2 PANTONE BOOK (TCX, TPX):
This book is used for shade matching. Sometime buyer gave the pantone no. in their order.
Pantone no. indicates the shade of the garments. It’s a universal shade matching book.
Full name : Pantone Textile Color Selector
Color numbering system : 6 digit + suffix
First two digits : 11 to 19 (range of lightness)
Middle two digits : 01 to 64 (range of hue)
Last two digits : 01 to 65 (range of chroma)
5.3 Necessary calculation:
5.4 Process flow chart of lab dip dyeing:

51. 51
Recipe correction
Two or more option of lab dips send to the buyer for approval
Approved Not approved
Go for production Making re lap dip
Approved
Spectrophotometer Visually calculating
Exact match with swatch
Recipe formulation
Checking the quality parameter
Swatch from buyer
Previous lap dipRecordSpectrophotometer
Matching visually

52. 52
5.5 Lab dyeing process:
Method: All in all
Dyeing Procedure:
 Liquor ratio 1: 10
 Add auxiliaries (labeling), dye, salt & soda ash at room temperature.
 Set temperature gradient 2o
C/min up to 650
C for avg color & run for 60 min.
 For turquoise dyes temperature gradient should be set 20
C/min up to 800
C & run for 40 min.
Wash Off:
 Rinse the sample in running cold water until clear water come out.
 Soaping with 1 g/l detergent at 98ºC for 10 min.
 Rinse with cold water.
 Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade.
Dyeing of Polyester Fabrics with Disperse Dyes:
Method: All in all
Dyeing Procedure:
 Liquor ratio 1 : 10
 Add dye, buffer solution, leveling agent at room temperature.
 Set temperature gradient 20
C/min up to 1300
C.
 Run time 30 min at 1300
C temperature.
 Cool down the machine at 800
C with temperature 1.50
C/min.
Wash Off:
 Rinse the sample in running cold water until clear water come out.
 Reduction clearing is done with 2 g/l caustic soda & hydrose.
 Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade.
Dyeing Scheme:
1300
C
1300
C, 30min (PES)
1000
C
800
C, 40 min (turquoise)
800
C
650
C, 60 min (avg color)
600
C
400
C
200
C A = Dye + Salt + Soda + Auxiliaries (cotton)
Or dye + lebelling + buffer acid (PES) Washing
00
C

53. 53
CHAPTER 6
FINISHING SECTION

54. 54
After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in tubular
form. According to buyer’s requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or tubular form.
Finishing section is divided into two section, they are:
 Open line
 Tube line
The machines that are used in open lines that are given bellow:
 Slitting m/c & De-watering m/c
 Stenter
 Compactor
The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow:
 De-watering m/c
 Dryer
 Calendaring & compactor

6.0 List of Finishing Machine
SL Name Of Machine Brand Origin Capacity/
type
No of Set
01 Dewatering &
De twisting
Bianco Italy Open width 01
Heliot France Tubular 01
Beneks Turkey Tubular 01
Dryer PPM Turkey Tube 8 Ton 01
02 Stenter LK & LH Taiwan Open 10 Ton 01
EHWHA Korea 10-11 Ton/day 01
03 Compactor Tubetex USA Tubular 06
Serteks Turkey Tubular 02
Bianco Italy Open width 01
Lafer Italy 8-12 Ton/day 01
6.1 Ballooning Squeezing m/c/De-Watering M/C:

55. 55
This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing.
The basic function of the squeezing m/c:
 To remove the water from the fabric.
 To control the width of the fabric.
 To control the length of the fabric.
 To control the Spirality of the fabric.
 To control the over feeding system
 Apply chemicals specially to make the fabric soft.
 To remove the crease mark of the fabric.
Controlling points:
 Dia setting must be accurate.
 Padder pressure depends on fabric construction. Excess padder pressure may
cause fabric damage. Speed must be optimum.
 Higher the fabric speed leads less removal of water.
Main parts:
 De-twisting device (to deliver the fabric roll in untwisted form)
 Expender (to control width)
 Paddler (to remove water)
 Folding device
 Conveyer Belt
 Compressed air(to form the tube fabric into balloon to ensure the delivered fabric
to be crease free)

56. 56
6.2 Tensionless Dryer m/c:
Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from the
fabric.
The basic function of the dryer:
 To dry the fabric in tube form.
 To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control)
 To control the GSM of the fabric.
Main parts of the machine:
 Overfeed roller
 Conveyor belt
 Steam chamber(6)
 Exhaust fan
 Motor(6)
 plaiter
Checking parameters:
 Overfeed ( %) : It depends on fabric structure & GSM
 Temperature: It depends on color & GSM.( normally for single jersey -1600
C, for
high GSM, like-fleece, it may be 2500
C )
 Speed: It depends on fabric GSM. For higher GSM, lower the speed.
GSM Over feed
Up to 120 14-15%
120-140 12%
140-200 7-8%
200-250 5-6%
Utility: Electricity, steam
Heating system: Steam dryer.

57. 57
6.3 Tube compactor:
Important parts:
 Shaft & pulley(To control Dia)
 Shoe
 Blade
 Overfeed Roller
 Steam bar
 Conveyor belt
 Take off roller
Blade No Req. GSM
110 Up to 125
125 Up to 140
140 Up to 180
170 Up to 240
200 Over 240
A pair of pulley: It controls the fabric width according to the buyer’s requirements.
Steam zone: It is given steam on the fabric surface for softness which helps in compacting
zone to compact the fabric.
Fig: Steam spray on fabric surface
Compacting zone: It consists of edge roller, retard roller, steel plates and compacting shoe.
Fabric’s shrinkage, finished GSM and Dia permanent by compacting shoe & edge roller at
950
c. Steel plate remove the crease mark on the fabric surface and retard roller smooth the
upper portion of the fabric surface at 950
c.
Shaper: It looks like a ladder which straightens the fabric and passing through the pulley.
Fabric

58. 58
The basic function of the tube compactor:
 To control the GSM (Increase & decrease)
 To control the Dia of the fabric
 To control shrinkage (Increase & decrease)
Controlling points of the tube compactor:
 Temperature- it depends on construction & composition and color of the fabric.
 Speed- it depends on temperature and fabric construction.
 Blanket pressure- fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.
 Over feed- over should be optimum. It increase GSM but higher over feed leads
to the formation of crease mark.
Utility:
 Electricity
 steam
Front view of m/c compacting zone
Steaming zone
6.4 Tubular knitted Fabric slitting machine:
Important parts:

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 Automatic Detwister unit with sensor
 J box rope fabric squeezer
 cutter unit with slitter basket
 automatic needle path detector
 drive reduction unit
 full width fabric squeezer
 Plaiter
 triangle
Basic function:
 Dewatering
 Slitting
Utility:
 Electricity
 Compressed air
Detwister
Slitter Basket Cutter unit with automatic needle path detector

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6.5 Stenter machine:
 Important parts:
 Dewatering (3.5 -4 bar)
 Spreader roller
 Balancing roller
 Cylinder type weft straightened (weft reading & correction system) Sensor number 12
 Selvedge sensor (2)
 Selvedge Locking System
 Fabric Transfer System (Prevention against loosening of fabric, curvature
phenomenon and contamination)
 Over feed roller: The over feed works up to (-10 to 80%) against Stenter chain speed.
 No. of chamber: 7
 Heating method: direct gas heating system
 Blower (7)
 Burner( 7)
 Exhaust motor ( max 1800rpm)
 Wheel speed (30 rpm)
 Consisting of:
 Cloth entrance 1 set
 1 bowl padding mangle 1 set
 Cloth feeding and over feeding system 1 set
 Rail and conveyor system 1 set
 Drying and heat setting chamber 7 set
 Cutting device
 cooling & exit zone 1 set
 Cloth plaiting device 1 set
6.6 Basic function:

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 To control width
 To control GSM
 To control shrinkage
 To control Spirality
 To drying
 To remove edge curl of the fabric
 To remove crease mark
 To soften
 To get better shade properties
 Heat setting
Fabric Entry Section:
The basic structure of the fabric entry section consists of the texture guider for de-twisting
and opening of the fabric and centering, padded mangle for dehydration and padding of
chemicals and the swing roller compensator for the interlocking with over-feed system.
Over feed zone

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Selvedge sensor & Wheel Fabric Transfer System
WEFT STRAIGHTENER HEATING SYSTEM
FABRIC OUTPUT

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6.7 Open compactor:
Important parts:
 Dogal vaporizer
 Chain vaporizer (2)
 Overfeed
 Underfeed
 Wheel
 Felt (2) .Upper & lower felt temperature max 1300
C.
 Chain width ( Max 110” & mini 35”)
 Spreader roller (4)
 Cylinder (2)
 Selvedge sensor
 Plaiter
Basic function:
 To control GSM (both increase & decrease). Compacting is done up to - 6%.
 To control Dia
 To control Shrinkage
 Controlling points:
 Temperature-It depends on construction & composition & color of fabric.
 Speed-It depends on temperature & fabric construction.
 Overfeed, underfeed, wheel-depends on GSM.
 Chain width-depends on fabric width.
 Upper & lower felt tension set up.
 Chain drug overfeeding
 Lower felt extract tension setup
Over feed zone

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Compacting Zone
Fabric Transfer System Selvedge sensor
Spreader roller Chain vaporizer

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CHAPTER 7
QUALITY ASSURANCE SECTION

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7.0 Quality Assurance:
Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actions necessary to
provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given requirements for
quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform
quality of the material in process and various stages of manufacturing.
7.1 Object Of Quality Control:
 Specification test
 Raw materials control
 Process control
 Process development
 Product testing
 Research
7.2 Quality Assurance System:
Quality assurance procedure may be divided into two major parts:
1) Online quality control
2) Offline quality control
7.2.1Online Quality Control:
Online quality control comprises with the
1) Raw material control,
2) Process control
3) Finish fabric inspection.
7.2.1.1. Raw material control:
As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality, quality assurance
department must ensure the best qualities of raw material (with economical
consideration) are used in production.
 The chemical should be with a known concentration and high degree of purity.
 The dyes and chemical should be compatible with each other.
 The fabric must be without faults, with proper absorbency, whiteness as per
requirement of the subsequent process.
7.2.1.2. Process control:
 The method chosen for process must be provided with necessary parameters.
 Temperature, pH, water level specific gravity should be checked at each stage of
process.
 During dyeing, samples are taken and shade match with lab dip and when match,
allow for bath drop.
 If not properly match addition or topping is done until required shade come.
 After neutralization sample is collected and match with lab dip.

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 Sample is collected after fixation and matched.
 Last of all after softening sample is collected and match with lab dip.
 Each batch should be matched with other batch.
 During finishing, temperature, speed, padder pressure, overfeed should be
controlled as per requirement.
 GSM, width, Spirality, shrinkage (both length & width) should be maintaining as
per buyer requirement.
7.2.1.3. Finish fabric inspection:
Purpose:
To ensure that an acceptable quality fabric is used for producing garments
and proper quality of shipment is received from the supplier.
Scope: All produced and incoming fabrics of SADMA FASHION WEAR LTD.
Procedure:
 Store in charge will check the received fabric with the report length, color and
type of fabric with the stated shipment document quantity and the actual order
quantity.
 The finding will be recorded in inventory report and discrepancy regarding
fabric type, color and length will be notified to the GM/Asst. Manager.
 For in-house products quality control officer will guide all over inspection.
 Quality inspector (fabric) shall check 100% receive fabric for quality. He will
identify any defect, hole or stain in the fabric.
 The fabric is also checked for shading defect in side by side and length. Any
non- conformities/ shading will be notified to asst. manager using inspected
reports. Roll wise color uniformly card is maintained for identification of
shade variations.
 During the fabric inspection if the yardage of any roll is reported more or less
by the fabric inspection machine then the one specified in the roll, the roll will
be measured manually using measuring tapes. Only calibrated measuring tape
should be used.
 The result of fabric inspection shall be recorded in fabric inspection report.

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7.3 Defects Found In the Final Inspection:
 Uneven shade
 Dia problem
 GSM problem
 Running shade
 Oil spot
 Color spot
 Neps
 Crease mark
 Sinker mark
 Needle mark
 Caustic mark
 Softener spot
 Patta
 Hole
 Machine stoppage mark
 Listing
 Contamination
 Dead cotton
7.4 Offline Quality Control:
Offline quality control generally comprises different tests of final product so that it is
possible to identify whether it pass against the norms given by buyer. The following test are
generally done-
 GSM test
 Shrinkage test (Length wise, Width wise)
 Dia measurement
 Length measurement
 Spirality test
 Shade Check
 Wash fastness test
 Rubbing fastness test
 Light fastness test

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CHAPTER 8
GARMENT SECTION

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8.1SAMPLE SECTION
INTRODUCTION
Sampling is the process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the
buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. It also
contributes in the domain of product development which helps to present the quality and
capability of service to the buyer. This department executes as per the specifications of
buyer’s order and ensures any correction or alteration before starting bulk production as per
buyer purchase order.
8.1.1Flow process chart for sampling:
Receives the technical package from
merchandising department consisting of fabric
swatches, patterning, cutting and stitching
details.
Pattern master develops the pattern
Pattern is digitized and grading done
with the help of CAD & pattern master
Fabric consumption is calculated and
Mini marker is developed
Cut the fabric after approval from
In- house QA and Buyer’s QA
Stitches the required no. of samples
Sending Samples for Further Processing

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8.1.2 Various samples which are being developed at different stages are being
mentioned below:-
A) Proto Sample
B) Fit Sample
C) Sales Sample
D) Pre Production Sample / Top of Production Sample
E) Size Set Sample.
Proto Sample :
Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the
style. It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and
then checked on the dress form. The quality inspectors from the respective buying houses or
the buyer checks the sample, makes the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the
style details etc. Once this stage is completed, it’s time to move on to the next stage.
Fit Sample:
The fit of the garment assumes the pivotal importance in this sample. Usually done with the
substitute/actual fabrics and substitute trims and accessories. It is sent directly to the buyer
for necessary alterations to be made. Depending upon the changes or the comments of the
buyer, the revised fit samples are made till the final approval is obtained.
Sales Sample:
The sales sample is done when the buyer requests for a certain no. of pieces for the promotion
of the product yet to come. It gives the buyer certain types of feedback about his product and
leaves him better equipped to decide on the production quantity. It usually consists of 6 to 7
pieces in each size and color.
Pre production sample:
It is done on the actual fabric using the actual trims and the fit has to be perfect. It is simply a
prelude to the actual production.
Size Set Sample:
It is done according to the buyer’s request. It is almost equivalent of the pre production
sample except that it was done in all the sizes or in the jumping sizes s per the buyer’s
request. The samples were made in the base size in 3-4 copies- Buyer, Factory reference,
Delhi Buying House( Corporate Office) and Bangalore Buying Office. The sampling process
varies from buyer to buyer.

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8.2CUTTING DEPARTMENT:
INTRODUCTION
Cutting is one of the important department of the manufacturing unit. The first stage in the
manufacture of the garments is the cutting of the materials into the necessary patterns shapes.
These are then joined together by means of seams to create three-dimensional garments.
Where large quantities of a garment style must be cut, a lay is created which consist of many
plies of fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes
that have been planned for that lay are cut. The pattern shapes for these garments maybe
drawn on a paper marker placed on top of the lay, or information as to their shape and
position maybe held within a computer, to be plotted similarly on the paper marker or used to
drive an automatic cutter.
8.2.1 Object of Cutting
The object of cutting is to separate fabric parts from the spread of lay according to the
dimension of the marker for the purpose of garments making according to the pattern pieces.
8.2.2 Requirements of Fabric Cutting
The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as replicas of the pieces in the marker plan.
In achieving this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled.
 Precision of cut.
 Clean edges.
 Unscathed, infused edges.
 Support of the lay.
 Consistent cutting.

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8.2.3 Process Flow of Cutting Section
Cutting plan is prepared
Receiving shipping
date from
merchandizing
Department
Delivery of fabric from Cutting
section
Fabric is stored in Sub store
Marking paper is prepared
Fabrics are spread in a table
Marking paper is spread and attached
Cutting is
done
Every piece and parts are numbered
Parts are grouped Into bundles
Some are sent for Washing
Return to Cutting section
Separated every bundle according to Cutting and lot Ready for delivery to
Sewing section
Panel check
Is it qualified? Reject
No
Yes

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Work Process in Cutting Section

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8.2.4 Notes:
After merchandizing department informs about all the shipping date to cutting section, the
cutting section makes a plan about their working schedule and make a list of the fabrics
which have to be cut.
8.2.5 Computerized marker making:
There are two systems for marker making
1. Digitizing system.
2. Automatic system.
8.2.5.1 Factors related to marker efficiency:
 Marker planer
 Size of garments
 Marker length
 Pattern engineering
 Fabric Characteristics
 Marker making method
 Marker width.
 Style of garments.
8.2.5.2 Marker efficiency: The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the
marker plan. The following formula is used to measure the efficiency:
8.2.5.3 Minimization of fabric wastage outside the marker:
There are four points for the fabric minimization outside the marker
1. Ends of ply losses.
2. Loss of fabric in roll.
3. Selvedge loss.
4. Purchase loss.

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8.2.5.4 Marker ratio:
According to the types of fabric, types of sizes, number of pieces which have to be made, a
marker ratio is decided. If there are some different sizes such as size : 6,8,10,12,16,18 which
have to be made for an order and if the marker ratio is 2,2,2,2,2,2; then it means that two
pieces of each size has to be made from each lay of fabric.
8.2.5.5 Marking paper:
When the sample section delivers the pattern, the design is made on a marking paper. The
design is mainly according to the marker ratio. The pattern of certain design is first put on the
marking paper and then the design is drawn.
8.2.6 Quality check:
After all the parts are finished from cutting then a quality check is made for every piece or
part. If any part is found defected then it is first seen whether the defect can be repaired by
cutting. If it cannot be repaired then the part is rejected.
8.2.7 Exceptional cases:
There are some cases for which some exceptional or extra actions have to be made.
 One of the exceptional cases is for the fabric which has to be washed before the
cutting is done. Those fabrics are first arranged and cut according to the length of the
marker. Then they are sent for washing. After the return of the fabrics from washing
the usual cutting process goes on.
 Another exceptional case is the fabric of stripe type. Instead of making or spreading
of long lay, lays are arranged in a small length in order to matching the stripes with
one another.. After cutting, each piece is checked whether the stripe so matched
according to the required design. If not matched, another worker cuts the stripe with a
scissor to make the matching. This process continues for each piece of the stripe
fabric. Then the usual numbering, bundling and quality checking continues. The
cutting process or checking for the stripe normally takes longer time than any other
types of fabric as here the stripes needs to be matched and that’s why each and every
part has to be checked.
8.2.8 Fabric Spreading
Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layer of specified
length. The cutting marker is laid on the top most layers. The maximum width of the cutting
marker is constrained by the usable width of the fabric.

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8.2.9 Objects of Fabric Spreading:
The objects of fabric spreading are
 To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan
correctly aligned as to length and width, without tension.
 To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use of multi garments
marker plans and the saving in putting time per garment that result from
cutting many plies at a time.
 To make every ply plain and flat.
 To save the time by cutting many layers of fabric at a time.
8.2.9.1 Types of Fabric Lay:
Spreading means the smooth laying of the fabric in
superimposed layer (plies) of specified length and
after spreading the shape of fabric plies is called
fabric lay. Fabric lay may be of different types.
According to the direction of fabric spreading,
fabric lay is of three types.
 Fabric spreading from right to left.
 Face to face fabric spreading and
 Zigzag lay.
In Niagara Textile Limited fabric lay is found by fabric spreading from right to left Fabric
spreading.
Figure Fabric spreading

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8.2.9.2 Determination of Lay Height:
In Niagara Textile ltd. & the lay height level followed for different types of fabric is given
bellow.
Fabric type Maximum lay height
1. Single Jersey (2.5 – 3) inches
2. Lycra Single Jersey (2 – 2.5) inches
3. Interlock (2.5 – 3) inches
4. Lycra Interlock (2 – 2.5) inches
5. (1×1) Rib (3 – 3.5) inches
6. (1×1) Lycra Rib (2.5 – 3) inches
7. (2×2) Rib (3 – 3.5) inches
8. (2×2) Lycra Rib (2.5 – 3) inches
9. Pique & Lacoste (3 – 3.5) inches
10. Lycra Pique & Lacoste (2.5 – 3) inches
8.2.10 Types of Fabric Package:
There are many fabric packages used in textile industry. Such as
 Open fabric – rolled.
 Tubular knitted fabric-rolled.
 Folded fabric-rolled.
 Folded fabric-cut.
 Velvet hanging etc.

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8.2.11 Methods of Cutting:
There are mainly three methods of cutting. They are
1. Completely by manual i.e. Hand operated scissor.
2. Manually operated powered knife.
 Straight knife
 Band knife.
 Round knife.
 Die cutter.
 Notcher.
 Drill.
3. Computerized Technique.
 Knife cutting.
 Laser cutting.
 Plasma torch cutting
 Cutting by water jet.
8.2.12 Problem in cutting section:
1. Dust.
2. Poor lighting system
3. Narrow passage
4. Haphazard arrangement of fabric store
5. Fabric wastage.
Remarks:
Cutting section is most sensitive section of garment. Many operation are done this section
such as marker making, sorting, fabric spreading, cutting etc. There are some skillful people
to do this job in this factory.

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8.3 SEWING SECTION:
Introduction:
Niagara Textile ltd has a strong set-up for sewing section. Right at the moment 31 sewing
lines are running with full capacity. In existing all of the lines, we have all modern sewing
machines compatible for all types of sewing.
8.3.1 Different parts of sewing m/c:
M/C parts Picture
Bobbin
Bobbin Case
Bobbin Winder
Feed Dog
Needle Clamp

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Pressure Foot
Stitch Length Controller
Throat Plate
Thread Take-Up Lever
Table M/C parts

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8.3.2 Process flow chart of sewing:
Operation finished and product goes for Final inspection
No
Stain
Oil spot removal
in the finishing
department
Operation
Quality check
Does the quality
parameter meet
requirements?
Next operation continues
Rework or replace
What type
of defect?
Sewing defect
Fabric
fault
Design from the
Sample section
Preparation of layout
Fit for
Production
Accessories
from store
Sub store
Collection of cut parts
Yes
Yes
Delivered to
finishing
department
Delivered to
Washing department
No
Qualified for
Delivery
Yes rejection

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8.3.3 Stitch:
Stitch is the unit of seam made by three principles interloping, interlacing to join two ply of
fabrics. A stitch is a single turn or loop of thread or yarn. Stitches are the fundamental
elements of sewing, knitting, embroidery, crochet, and needle lace-making, whether by hand
or machine. A variety of stitches, each with one or more names, are used for specific
purposes.
8.3.3.1 Stitch type:
Stitches are of 70 types. All these types of stitches are grouped in six classes. According to
British standard;
1. Stitch class-100 (Single thread chain stitch).
2. Stitch class-200 (Hand stitch).
3. Stitch class-300 (Lock stitch).
4. Stitch class-400 (Multi thread chain stitch).
5. Stitch class-500 (Over edge stitch).
6. Stitch class-600 (Covering chain stitch).
1. Stitch class-100(chain stitch):
 In this stitch -one loop passing through the loop of same thread.
 Security of this seam is poor/not satisfactory.
 It can produce easily and high speed using one needle.
 Only one needle thread is used for making this stitch.
 Uses temporary purposes which can easily pick up
 It is also used blind stitch purpose.
 If one unit is break then whole stitch is open.
Uses: Hemming, button attaching, button attaching, gathering and temporary positioning of
garment component and purpose.
2. Stitch Class-200(hand stitch)
 Stitches under this class are also produced with single thread by use of special types
of sewing machine.
 Stitch class-200 cannot be produced for longer length sewing.
 Uses for stitches costly garments.

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3. Stitch class-300(Lock Stitch)
 It require two types of sewing thread
 Both side are same
 It is difficult to pick up.
 Less extensibility
 More compact
 Yarn consumption is comparatively less.
 Stitch under this class is naturally secured.
 It is widely used in garments factory.
4. Stitch class-400(multithread chain stitch)
 One or more thread is used.
 One group is called upper thread and another group is called lopper thread(under
thread)
 Security of this stitch higher than lock stitch about 30%
 Higher production than lock stitch due to use large package.
 This type of stitch is used to prevent the fraying of yarn of fabric.
 It is widely use for making knitted garments.
5. Stitch class-500(Over edge chain stitch)
 It required more than two threads
 One group is called upper thread; another group is called lopper thread.
 Security is higher than lock stitch about 30%
 It is used for making knitted garments.
 It is also used for decorative purposes.
 It is only used in the edge of the fabric
6. Stitch class-600(Covering chain stitch & Flat)
 Three or more sewing thread is used to make this stitch.
 Three groups of sewing threads are used:
1) Needle thread
2) Lopper thread
3) Covering thread
 Security is good.
 This type of stitch is used to join side by side of fabric without increasing thickness.
 This type of stitch is used for sewing under wear without increasing thickness.
This type of stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid elastic etc

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8.3.4 Different Operations of Sewing M/C:
1. Plain sewing m/c:
 Plackets join.
 Lower placket close.
 Placket 1/16 top stitch.
 Placket box stitch.
 Collars make.
 Collar band top stitch.
 Collar band make.
 Collars join.
 Collar top stitch with label.
 Collar band join.
 Side slit top stitch.
 Zippers join.
 Zipper top stitch.
 Patch label attach.
 Hanger loop attach.
 Pockets join.
 SLV in & out side tack.
 Neck in & out side tack.
 Neck V tack.
 Nose tack
2. Over lock sewing m/c
 Shoulder joins with tape.
 SLV ribs attach.
 SLV joins.
 SLV lengths 1st side join.
 SLV lengths 2nd side join.
 Side seam.
 Side seam with care label.
 Side seam with placket
edge over lock.
 Neck rib joins.
 Elastic attach at waist belt
3. Flat lock sewing m/c:
 SLV hem.
 SLV contrast hem.
 Bottom hem.
 Bottom contrast hem.
 Leg hem.
 Back neck binds.
 Armhole binds.
 Armhole top stitch.
 Shoulder top stitch.
 Wais belt top stitch.

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8.3.5 List of Garments Machineries
SL Machine Name Brand Total
Juki Pegasus Yamata Nagishing Kansai Hashima Idea
1 Plain 629 629
2 Over lock 55 243 21 319
3 Flat lock 22 147 05 174
4 Button Hole 16 16
5 Button Stitch 19 19
6 Snap Button 05 05
7 Peaconting 03 02 05
8 DFD 01 01
9 PMD 02 02
10 Feed of the Arm 02 02
11 Re-cone 02 02
12 Rib Cutting 08 08
13 Back tape 06 06
14 Bartack Computer 08 08
15 Two Needle 02 02
16 Fusing 01 01
17 Zic Zac Plain 02 02
18 Conver Stitch 02 02
Total 1203

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8.3.6 Sewing sequence of basic T-shirt in Niagara:
Serial Operation Machine used
1. Solder Joint Over lock M/C Thread no.3
2. Neck rib make
Plain M/C. Thread No 1
3. Neck joint Over lock M/C. Thread No 3
4. Main + Size level joint Plain M/C. Thread No 1
5. Main + Size level joint Plain M/C. Thread No 1
6. Piping Kansai M/C. Thread No 4
7. Sleeve ham Flat Lock M/C. Thread no.3
8. Sleeve joint O/L M/C. Thread no.4
9. Sleeve joint O/L M/C. Thread no.4
10. Level Attaching (Care Level) Plain M/C. Thread No 1
11. Side Seam O/L M/C. Thread no.4
12. Side Seam O/L M/C. Thread no.4
13. Side Seam O/L M/C. Thread no.4
14. Khara Tuck Plain M/C. Thread no.2
15. Chap Tuck Plain M/C. Thread no.2
16. Bottom Ham Flat Lock M/C(1) Thread No 3

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8.4 WORK-STUDY:
Work-study is a management techniques to investigate all factors, which are affecting to the
productivity.
Two Techniques of Work Study:
1. Method Study
2. Work Measurement
WORK STUDY

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8.5 IE:
Industrial engineering is concerned with the design, improvement and installation of
integrated system of man, machine and equipment drawing upon specialized knowledge and
skill in the technical, economics and human sciences. Either with the principles or methods of
engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained
from such system
Responsibility of an IE officer:

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8.5.1Flow process chart of IE department:

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8.6 SMV:
SMV means Standard Minute Value. A standard operator is one who is accepted as having
the necessary physical attributes, who possesses the required intelligence and education and
has acquired the necessary skill and knowledge to carry out the work in hand to satisfactory
standards of safety, quantity and quality
Parameter to be considered when giving SMV for an operation:
 Handling– pick-up, Aligning, Dispose, Tool use, Machine Handling etc
 Sewing –
1. Machine RPM, SPI/SPC and mc Features
2. Seam Length
3. Seam Type – (Visible/ Invisible, Straight, Curved etc).
4. Stopping accuracy (End back tack, Pivot, Runoff etc)
5. Attachment Use (Folders, Gauges.etc)
6. Personal, Machine Effectiveness
8.6.1 SMV calculation:
SMV = BT + ALLOWANCES
Direct Basic Time can be generated by GSD or any PMTS versions.
In Stop watch Time study
*
*100
OT OR
BT
SR

BT- BASIC TIME
OT- OBSERVED TIME
OR- OBSERVED RATING
SR- STANDARD RATING
Z

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8.7 Sewing Problem:
Sewing defect can be classified in three different groups:
1. Problems Of Stitching Formation.
Slipped stitch:
Stitches in the seam are present in a regular wise. If the interloping or interlacing between top
& bottom thread of stitch is not take place or mossed is known as slipped stitch or skipped
stitch. This is more harmful in case of chain stitch than lock stitch. The following are the
causes and remedies of slipped stitch formation given by a table.
No Cause Remedies
01 If hook or looper & needle are
not inserted in loop of thread
in time.
Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or
looped.
Placing of needle properly.
More secured needle should be used.
02 Irregular thread tension on
upper or lower loop.
The tension of thread should again be adjusted.
03 Due to needle deflection. Needle to be changed.
04 If needle thread loop size is
too small.
Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.
05 When flagging of fabrics
during sewing is happened.
The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.
The hole of throat plate & needle size must be adjusted.
Staggered stitch:
If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel or become curvy to sewing line is known as
staggered stitch. The following are the causes and remedies of staggered stitch formation
given by a table:
No. Causes Remedies
01 Needle deflection Increases the needle size.
Tapered needle should be used.
02 Due to wrong or blunt needle point. Needle to be changed
03 Wrong adjustment of needle & thread
size.
Needle size and thread size should be changed.
04 Defected motion of feed dog. Motion of feed dog to be adjusted.
05 If fabrics are not controlled properly in
the feed mechanism.
The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.
Feed mechanism to be changed.

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Unbalanced Stitch:
This type of defect is found in lock stitch machine. If the interlacement of thread are not
taken place in the middle (i.e. if the interlacement is taken place in the upper or lower
position from the middle) of two layers of fabrics then it is known as Unbalanced stitch. The
following are the causes and remedies of unbalanced stitch formation given by a table:
No. Causes Remedies
01 Wrong tension of sewing thread Setting of proper tension to the sewing threads.
Proper care to the twisting of thread during sewing.
02 Used wrong thread path. Use of right thread path.
03 Wrong adjustment of needle
thread path.
Use of right thread path.
04 Snagging of needle with bobbin
case & positioning finger.
Bobbin case to be smooth.
The positioning finger to be set again.
05 If the threads are not lubricated. Better qualities threads must be used.
Table unbalanced stitch
Frequent thread Breakage:
This is the breakage of thread again and again during sewing. And
also, there needs more time and which is harmful for production.
Especially when there needs to open out of sewing to solve the
problem. The following are the causes and remedies of frequent
thread breakage formation given by a table.
No Causes Remedies
01 Wrong winding of threads on to the
bobbin.
Proper winding of threads on to the bobbin.
Pre-wound bobbin may be used.
02 More tension to the bobbin threads or
more rotating of bobbin.
The tension must be adjusted to the bobbin
threads.
Use of washer to prevent the more rotating of
bobbin.
03 If the edges bobbin case, lopper eye
and so on are more sharpened.
The edges to be smooth.
04 Wrong fitting of bobbin case. Examine the size and type of bobbin.
Examine the damaging of bobbin case.
Problems of puckers:
Figure Thread Breakage

94. 94
Unwanted waviness of the fabric along the seam line is called seam pucker. This may be
apparent immediately after sewing or it may develop in later in use. Most of the times,
sewing threads are referred as the responsible for seam pucker. But without sewing threads,
there are so many reasons for occurring seam pucker. Such as fabric structure, seam structure,
needle size, feeding problem, uneven thread tension and so on. This can be seen after sewing
and sometimes after washing of garments. There is a great possibility of seeing seam pucker
in case of more piles of fabrics sewing together. The following are the main reason of
occurring seam pucker.
1. Variable or uneven stretch on fabric piles:
●There is a great possibility of seeing seam
pucker in case of more piled of fabrics sewing
together.
● Due to variable stretch on fabric piles they
will not feed equally to sewing m/c & create
seam pucker.
● this type of pucker is seen for the limitation
of feed mechanism.
2. Fabric dimensional instability:
●If the shrinkage of sewn fabric piles are not same or equal than seam pucker will
create after washing.
●To avoid this. It must be know the shrinkage property of different types of fabrics
before sewing.
●If the shrinkage percentage of area of two pieces fabrics is more than 2, then seam
pucker will occur after sewing the fabrics together.
3. Sewing threads shrinkage:
●Due to variable shrinkage percentage of sewing thread & fabric, seam pucker will
create after washing or ironing.
●To protect this. It must know about the shrinkage percentage of fabric & thread
before selection to sew.
●There is less possibility of occurring seam pucker when sewing is done by synthetic
threads due to less shrinkage percentage of them.
Remarks:
Sewing section is the important section of garments. There are many processes in this section
for making garments. This section needs skilful operator otherwise garments to be fault.
8.8 Finishing:
Figure seam puckering

95. 95
INTRODUCTION
Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look. In this
department each garment undergoes different finishing processes. It undergoes for quality
check for several number of time which sets the garment free from defects. Buyer
specifications and instructions are strictly maintained. Our finishing section is equipped with
modern pressing machines & trained workers. Like other operations, quality of garments is
strictly being controlled here to secure acceptable quality level. Following are the different
finishing processes-
Trimming.
Quality Check.
Sewing Section
Rivet / Buttons / Brand label Attachment.
Sewing Section
Rivet / Buttons / Brand label Attachment
Ironing
Darning
Touch Up

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8.8.1 FLOW PROCESS CHART OF FINISHING SECTION:
Scanner checks if
there is any metal
parts left in the
clothing.
Metal part is
removed
Product is dropped on the moving part of the
scanner.
Product is received from sewing
section
The clothes are ironed
A quality check is done to
see if there is any fault in
ironing or in fabric.
Cloths are folded or attached to hanger as per the requirement of
buyer.
Folded parts are packed into poly bag
Folded parts are assorted and kept
in cartons with H-tag as per the
requirement of buyer.
When the fault is in
ironing it is sent for
ironing and for other
fault, step is taken to
make it defect free.
Yes
Yes
no
No

97. 97
8.8.2 Ironing:
This is a finishing process done by subjecting a cloth to heat & pressure with or without
steam to remove unintended creases and to impart a flat appearance to the or garments. Also,
pressing is done to introduce creases in the garments, in garments industries, pressing is
called Ironing.
8.8.3Pressing:
Pressing is the process to remove unwanted crease and crinkles from the fabric to give it
smoothness, lustrous and fine appearance. Pressing is a finishing process which is done to
garments by heat and pressure. It is also called ironing in garments factory.
Categories of pressing:
 No pressing: Here pressing is not required, e.g. knitted garments such as under
garments, briefs etc.
 Minimum pressing: Only heat is applied to garments, such as sweater, T-shirt etc.
 Under pressing: Before sewing some parts of garments are pressed for its proper
finishing, such as pants, coats/blazer etc.
 Final pressing: After completing the garments final pressing is done then it is packed
to a poly bag for shipment.
 Permanent pressing: Many fabric effects are made by heavy pressing; this is known as
permanent pressing, e.g. pleat of shirt, dirt of pant, lapel of coat etc.
8.8.3.1 Objects of Ironing/ Pressing:
1. Remove of unwanted creases and crinkles.
2. To apply creases where necessary.
3. Shaping.
4. Under pressing.
5. Under pressing.
6. Final pressing.
8.8.4Folding:
After pressing garments are given crinkle according to the specific volume or standard
volume is known as folding. Folding types are depends on the different types
fabric/garments.

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8.5 Types of Packaging:
There are two types of packaging. Such as-
A. Solid packaging.
B. Assorted packaging
8.5.1Types of Assortment:
A. Assorted color & Solid size
B. Solid color & assorted size
C. Assorted color & assorted size
D. Solid color & Solid size
8.5.2 TYPES OF POLY:
A. Single Poly.
B. Blister poly
C. Hanger poly.
D. Master poly.
E. Box poly.
8.5.2.1 Poly measurement:
Length=folding length+ allowance
Width=folding width+ allowance.
 Poly measurement= length* width
Inner cartoon measurement:
Length=Poly length+ allowance
Width=Poly width+ allowance
Height= each garment height*6+allowance
 Inner cartoon measurement= length* width* height

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8.6 Care label symbols:

100. 100
8.7 Garments Defect:
Garment defects can be separated into three categories:
1. Fabric defects:
These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines.
E.g. running shade, selvedge-to-selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreign
yarn, slub, hairiness etc.
2. Workmanship and handling defects:
These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both the
cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect
workmanship.
Workmanship & handling defects are given below;
I. Cutting defects.
II. Pattern defects.
a. Sewing defects:
1. Seam puckering.
2. Broken seam/ open seam.
3. Broken stitch.
4. Slipped stitch.
5. Wavy/ staggered stitch.
6. Uncut/ loose thread.
III. Ironing fault:
a. Look crinkle (if poor ironing)
b. Look shiny (if too much ironing)
IV. Finishing fault:
a. Misplacement of label, hangtag, stitches etc.
b. Misaligned button, unfinished button whole, distance fault of button.
c. Wrong folding.
Note: Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways of attaching
trims, packing etc.
3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen
print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims.
Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and Minor defects.

101. 101
1. Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious
of defects (0%).
2. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%)
depending on buyer’s requirements.
3. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (5%)
depending on buyer’s requirements.
Remarks:
The term garments finishing mainly applies to pressing, folding and packing of garments.
After compacting pressing, the garments have to be folded. Garments are folded according to
the direction of buyer’s requirements or in standard area. So finishing department is
important of garments.

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CHAPTER 9
Marchendising

103. 103
9.1 Process flow chart of Merchandising:
Merchandiser
Negotiation with buyer & collect order
Costing
Sample making
Get approval & placement of order
Collect accessories for production
Line balancing
Production monitoring
Final Inspection
Banking
Shipment

104. 104
9.2 Merchandising:
Merchandising refers to the techniques used to sell and buy products. A merchandiser is
someone who purchases a product from a manufacturer, and then sells it to buyers. Easily it
can be said that a merchandiser is he/ she who act like a buyer to a supplier and also act like a
supplier to the buyer. There are numerous techniques that a merchandiser may use to
convince buyers to buy the products he or she is selling.
The term merchandising is defined as follows:
* The term merchandising related with trade
* Trade means buying & selling
* The person who is involved with trade, he/she is a merchandiser
* And the activities of a merchandiser is known as a merchandising
9.3 Responsibility of senior merchandiser:
 Sample development
 Price negotiation
 Order confirmation
 L/C opening
 Opening summery
 Sourcing
 Material collection
 Production planning
 Production monitoring
 Quality assurance
 Arrange final inspection
9.4 Purchase order sheet:
What is Purchase Order Sheet?
 This is generally abbreviated to P.O.
 The Purchase Order can be defined as a written sales contract between buyer and
seller detailing the exact merchandise to be rend from a single vendor.
 It will specify payment terms, delivery dates, item identification, quantities, shipping
terms and all other obligations and conditions.
 A contract to purchase merchandise may include a number of P.O. sheets defining
them color-wise and size-wise quantity or as per buyers' wish.

105. 105
9.5 What does a P.O. Contain?
The Purchase Order is provided to the vendor as a record of the Purchase. A sample Purchase
Order sheet indicates the followings-
A) Purchase Order Number
- The number is assigned to the purchase order. This is used to identify a definite order and
for departmental record keeping,
B) vendor's Name and Address
- The complete name and address of the individual or company which manufacture the
merchandise.
- The sequential line number which corresponds with the line on the requisition (i.e., the
first item would be line 1; the second would be line 2, etc.).
C) Quantity
- The quantity of the item being purchased.
D) UQP (Unit of Purchase)
-The packaging of the item to be purchased (i.e., each, box, package, poly, dozen,
carton etc.)
E) Unit Price
- The unit price of the item ordered.
F) Extended Price/ Total Price
- The total quantity of the item multiplied by its unit price.
G) Description
- The complete description of the item ordered in detail, i.e. color, size ratio, critical designs,
buttons and other trims, printings, sewing thread used etc,
H) Total
 The total amount of all items on the purchase order.
 During partial shipment, color-wise and size-wise quantity to be shipped is
mentioned.

106. 106
9.6 Inquiry sheet:
What is an Inquiry Sheet?
This is the most important document sent by the buyer to a merchandiser to start the
merchandising activities.
The technical term of Inquiry Sheet is Product Specification Sheet
(P, S, S,). But some buyer and some manufacturer also use the term of Tech-Pack or Style-
Pack.
The buyer specifies all the necessary points of a particular garment What they want to
purchase-
The merchandiser has to study the P, S.S. very well for farther Activities. He must reply
within 24 hours.
What does the Inquiry Sheet possess?
 The Tech-Pack includes the following-
 Styling of the garment
 Sketch of the garment
 Size range
 Fabric (denoted with cut-able width )
 Interlining
 Pocketing(for shirt or pant)
 Measurement sheet
9.7 Trims/Accessories-
I. Label
 Main label (with/without size)
 Care label
 Trucking label/DPCR label
 Size label
II. Tag
III. Hang tag, joker tag and adjustable waist tag.
IV. Thread: color & count specified.
V. Button: Ligne number and types specified.
VI. Zipper
VII. Bow (for kids' item)
VIII. Poly
IX. Tag pin
X. Gum tag
XI. Carton ETC

107. 107
 Washing details (for denim fabrics)
 Embroidery details (if any)
 Printing details on Art Sheet (if any)
9.8 SWATCH CARD:
What is Swatch Card?
When all the items (fabric and accessories) needed to manufacture a particular style of
garment are attached on a board as a sample by using both side adhesive tapes, it is called
Swatch Card.
Separate swatch card is prepared for different style of garment.
The objective of making 'Swatch Card1
is to assess the quality for production
The items attached in a swatch card are -
 Fabric - separately for each different color.
 Thread - for different count and type
 Button - for different Ligne Number
 Label - for different types (main, size & care label etc) and for Différent size (2T,
3T etc).
 Price tag
 Poly bag
 ETC
Swatch Card has to made a few for each separate department, for example -
 For Production Manager
 For Quality Manager
 For Store Office
 For Buying house / Buyers representative
 For Merchandiser own self
 And for each production unit.
9.9 Importance of Swatch Card:
For a merchandiser this is very important for continuing his job.
Without this he cannot move his arena-
It is chat where all materials and accessories are present with their color combination. For
this, it is much more important to lake approval from the buyer as well as to give the
appropriate instructions to the supplier to supply the necessary and appropriate goods.

108. 108
9.10 How can we get Fabric Consumption & Fabrics Price?
Say: ** Body Length = 85, Chest Width = 52, Sleeve Length = 44 & G.S.M = 240
Fabric Description: 100 % Cotton S/J
Fabric Need = [(85+5
+44+5
)  52+5
]  2  12  240/10000000+10%
= [(90+49)  57]  2  12  240/10000000+10%
= (13957)  2  12  240/10000000+10%
= 7923 12  240/10000000+10%
= 45636480/10000000 + 10%
= 4.563648 +10%
= 4.563648 + .4563
= 5.02 Kgs Fabrics
Say Per Kgs Price: US$ 6.00/Kgs
8.30 Fabrics Price:
Total Fabric Need 5.00 Kg  $ 6.00 = $ 30.00
Trim/ Accessories (Minimum Charge) = $ 2.50
Cutting & Making Charge (C.M) = $ 5.00
Printing Charge (If any) = $ 0.00
Embroidery Charge (If any) = $ 0.00
Buying Commission (If necessary) 5% = $ 1.97
= $ 39.47/12
9.11 Poly bag costing :
Total Length X width X Thickness
= 36cm X 28cm X 10mm
= 10080/72000
= 0.14pcs/lb

109. 109
I) Ship To
- Receiving Department address
J) Deliver To
- The complete name and location of the individual who requested the ordered goods.
K) Dale
- The date at which the purchase order was received and also the date at which the order will
have to be shipped.
L) Payment Terms
- Payment terms defined by Purchasing Department of the buyer.
M) Ship Via
- Shipping instructions entered by Purchasing Department.
N) F.O.B.
- Shipping terms defined by Purchasing Department.
O) Freight Terms
- Freight terms defined by Purchasing Department.
P) P. O. Line No.

110. 110
CHAPTER 10
QUALITY CONTROL
LABORATORY

111. 111
10.0 Physical Tests:
1. Fabric weight (GSM)
2. Smoothness & appearance
3. Color fastness to rubbing
4. Color fastness to light
5. Dimensional Stability
6. Color fastness to wash
1. Fabric weight (GSM):
Fabric is cut by GSM cutter and its weight is measured by electric balance. Then the
result is multiplied by 100 to get the actual result.
2. Smoothness & appearance:
Fabric smoothness & appearance is measured by hand feel.
3. Color fastness to rubbing:
Rubbing time : 10 times
Sample size : 14×5cm
2
Crocking cloth size: 5*5 cm
2
Process :
Place the fabric in the given position of the crockmeter and attach it with a
frame tightly with the crockmeter.
Then start the machine and after 10 times rubbing both in dry & wet condition,
take out the fabric from the crockmeter and compare it with the grey scale for
staining.
4. Color fastness to light :
Sample size: 12*5 cm
2
Process time : 40 hrs (according to buyer requirement)
Process :
Put the sample in the clamp and then put it in the machine. Start running the
machine and keep it running for recommended hours of buyer.
Then take it out and compare with the grey scale of color staining for rating.
5. Shrinkage & spirility test:
Sample size : 50×50 cm
2
Process:
 At first two fabric is cut as per above given dimension.
 Then it is sewn in 4 sides.
 Then area is req. marked inside the total area.
 Then the sample fabric is taken out and washed & dried as per following:
 Then measurement is taken again to find out shrinkage%.

112. 112
After washing
Before washing
Shrinkage%= {(before length- after length)/before length} *100 %
Here A = Length measurement before wash
B = Spiraled length.
By this test spirality can also be measured by the following formula,
Spirality % = (B÷A) × 100 %
6. Color fastness to Wash:
Method: ISO 105 C06
Apparatus:
 Grey scale
 Multifibre fabric
 ECE detergent
 Sodium perborate
 Steel ball
Sample – 10*4 cm
2
Multifibre- 10*4 cm
2
Recipe:
ECE detergent 4 g/l
Sodium perborate 2 g/l
M: L =1: 50
Temperature: 50 0
C
Time: 30 min
Steel ball – 15 pcs
Evaluation:
Compare the contrast between the treated and untreated sample with grey scales for changing
color of dyed sample and staining of adjacent fabric in a color matching cabinet.

113. 113
Chapter 11
Production planning &
control
11.0 Basic Procedure of Production Planning & Control: