1. Welcome To Our Presentation
On
“Cutting method & knife”
Prepared For:
Jenifar Amman
Southeast University
Prepared By:
Group: 05
Batch: 13th -1
Department Of Textile Engineering

2. WE ARE…
Name Of The Student
ID.
Md. Ubaydur Rahman
2010000400039
Md. Salim Azad Didar
2010000400038
Md. Foisal Mridha
2010000400037
Md. Moniruzjaman Piash
2010000400034
Md. Naimul Islam
2010000400032

3. FABRIC CUTTING
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To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut
out the garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of
cutting templates. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and
spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric
cutting.
Object:
To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to the
dimension of the marker
Requirements Of Cutting:
Precession of cut
Clean edge
Infused edge
Consistency in cutting
Support of the lay

4. TYPES OF CUTTING METHOD
Fully Manual
 Hand operated scissor
 Manually Operated Power Knife
 Straight knife
 Band knife
 Round knife
 Die cutting
 Notcher
 Drill
 Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
 Computer controlled knife cutting
 Cutting by Laser beam
 Cutting by Water jet
 Cutting by Plasma torch
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5. HAND OPERATED SCISSOR
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Features:
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First & oldest method of fabric cutting
Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric
Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left
Can be cut by scissor
Needs more time & contain high cost
Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric
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6. STRAIGHT KNIFE
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Features:
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The elements of straight knife consists of:
1. An electric motor
2. Stand
3. A base plate usually on rollers
4. Handle
5. Knife
6. Knife Guard
7. Wheel
Knife is driven by electric power
Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting
Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
Straight edge is mostly used
Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim
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7. STRAIGHT KNIFE
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Working Principal:
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Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight Knife
Motor power drive the reciprocating knife
Operator power drives the knife through the lay
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The motor power needed is determined by
Height of the lay
Construction of the fabric
Curvature of the line being cut
Stroke of the blade
Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut the
fabric

8. STRAIGHT KNIFE
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Advantage:
Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to
another place
Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily
Round corner can be cut more precisely then even round
knife
Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any
angle
Disadvantage:
Some time deflection may occur due to the weight o the motor
Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
Sometime accident may happen

9. DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNIFE
Round
Knife:
Straight
Knife:
Wave knife
Straight knife
Notch knife

10. BAND KNIFE
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Features:
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Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by
electric motor
Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible
Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife
This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable
This is like saw mill cutter
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11. BAND KNIFE
Advantage:
Used
when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is
required
Extensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts
such as collars & cuff
Used more in men’s wear than ladies wear
Intensively risk of accident is low
Possible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric
Disadvantage:
Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveable
Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts
Not possible to cut fabric directly
Fabric wastage is high
Power loss is high

12. ROUND KNIFE
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Features:
Element of round knife:
Base plate & Electric motor
Handle for the cutter to direct the blade
Rotating circular blade
Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm
Blade is circular
Blade is driven by electric power
Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm

13. ROUND KNIFE
Advantage:
Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multilayers (say 20-30 layers)
Suitable for small scale cutting
Suitable gentle curve cutting
Easy to operate
Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of lays
Not suitable for higher production
Possibility of accident is high
Difficult to cut small component
Needs skilled operator

14. DIE CUTTING
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Features:
Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses &
Clickers
Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die,
Motor & Operating System of Ram
Die is made by metallic strip
Most useful to cut sharp & small parts

15. DIE CUTTING
Working Principal:
Die
is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of
pattern
Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the
cutting pad in order that the fibers of the lowest ply are
completely separated
For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required
placement of dies
The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the
cutting pad
The gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when die is
taken to cut fabric lay

16. DIE CUTTING
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Advantage:
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Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress
accurately
Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle
Comparatively less time required
Best method of cutting knitted fabric
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Disadvantage:
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Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay
High labor cost
To change the style quickly is impossible
Difficult to cut large components of dress

17. NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Features:
Special
type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Used to cut notch in the edge of some components
The invention of notcher m/c was done to make notch
The notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape

18. NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Advantage:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Useful to cut small notch to the fabric
Most useful to make consistency in notching
Disadvantage:
Only used to make notch
Thermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/c
Time loss
Use of the m/c is limited

19. DRILL CUTTING M/C
Features:
Needed
to mark on the end of components of dresses especially
for pocket & dart setting
This m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit level
For tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for
long
In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so
that it can easy to find the marked place

20. DRILL CUTTING M/C
Advantage:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially
for setting pocket & dart
Make the hole permanently for long time
Disadvantage:
Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting
pocket & dart
For loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanently for
long time

21. COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING
Features:
This
method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high
speed
Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting
Cutting knife is oval shaped & very hard. Sharpness is also high &
blade is made of stainless steel
Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer
memory
This m/c is CAM system m/c & works through CAD system

22. COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING
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Advantage:
Very fast cutting operation
Very active cutting by computer controlled system
Suitable for very large scale production
Speed of can be controlled
Intensity of accident is low
No need of marker
Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than manual method
Less labor cost
Disadvantage:
Very expensive m/c
Higher maintenance cost
Skilled manpower is required
If correct disc is not loaded in the computer, error
will be indicated

23. CUTTING BY LASER BEAM
Features:
This
method, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot using
a laser
Radius of spot of light is 0.25 mm & high powerful
When the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on the material
& cutting is done by vaporization
Fabric is cut at a speed of 13 meter per min
Cutting head is controlled by computer

24. CUTTING BY LASER BEAM
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Advantage:
Very fast cutting operation
 Can be cut in a proper line as the cutting head
is controlled by computer
 As the fabric is cut by ray off high so that no need of sharpening
operation
 Disadvantage:
 Not suitable for cutting of multi-layer of fabric
 For thermoplastic fabric the cutting edge should be fused
 Very expensive cutting method
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25. CUTTING BY WATER JET
Features:
This
system, thin jet of water is passes through a nozzle in a very
momentum
Pressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inch
Water is worked as like as hard & sharp knife which can easily cut
the fabric
A catcher in the bottom of fabric lays & it used with the same
speed & the same direction of water jet

26. CUTTING BY WATER JET
Advantage:
Higher cutting speed
There is no need of knife to cut fabric so that no need of
sharpening operations
Better to cut hard material
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for higher depth of lay of fabric
Cutting edge of fabric is wetted by water
Sometimes water spot should be seen in the fabric
Need of filtering & deionization of water
Need of controlling the sound of jet

27. CUTTING BY PLASMA TORCH
Features:
This
system, fabric are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is
made by Argon gas
One or more fabric plies can be cut
Most useful for cutting single ply of fabric
Fabrics are cut by placing in a table, the surface (85%) of which
must be place in a perforated blanked place
Still now, this system is under research

28. CUTTING BY PLASMA TORCH
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Advantage:
Automatic torch height control system
Automatic oxy-fuel gas control system
Automatic torch explosion system
Pneumatic band clamping
Standard auto-nesting package
Easily networked
Disadvantage:
Synthetic fiber not cut
Higher number of fabric lay is not cut
Need higher skill operator
Costly