The land of pharaohs, intriguing legends, ancient civilizations and amazing temples, Egypt is one of the world’s greatest and most captivating countries

1. EGYPT
Nile
Valley
Historical cities:
Cairo, Alexandria,
Luxor, Aswan...

2. Felucca on the Nile River

3. Contents
P.6-9
P.10-19
P.10-11
P.12-13
WELCOME TO THE NILE VALLEY
ATMOSPHERE
u
ROMANCE...SAILING THE NILE RIVER
URBAN LIFE
P.14-15 NATURE
P.16-17 GASTRONOMY
P.18-19 PHARAONIC EGYPT
P.20-41 GEOGRAPHICAL APPROACH
P.20-21 THE COAST: FROM MARSA MATRUH
TO DAMIETTA AND PORT SAID
P.22-23 ALEXANDRIA
P.24-27 CAIRO AND GIZA
P.28-29 EL FAYOUM TO HERMOPOLIS
P.30-31 ASYUT TO DANDARA
P.32-35 LUXOR AND THE EAST BANK
P.36-37 VALLEY OF THE KINGS AND
THE WEST BANK
P.38-39 ASWAN
P.40-41 ABU SIMBEL
P.42-45 PLANNING THE TRIP
P.46-47 PRATICAL INFORMATION
P.48-51 ACCOMMODATION
P.52-53 ALTERNATIVE PRODUCTS
P.54 DO’S & DON’TS
P.55 EGYPT GENERAL MAP
5

4. Nile Valley
E G Y P T
G U I D E
Welcome To The
The land of pharaohs, intriguing legends, ancient civilizations and
amazing temples, Egypt is one of the world’s greatest and most
captivating countries.
GEOGRAPHY
Egypt enjoys a strategic location in North the Nile flow into the Mediterranean. Along
Africa close to the Middle East. Officially the coastline are the towns and cities of El
the Arab Republic of Egypt, it borders Libya Alamein, famed for its Second World War
to the west, Sudan to the south, and Israel battles and museums, along with Marsa
and the Gaza Strip to the east via the Sinai Matruh and Sallum to the west of Alexan-
Peninsula and a land bridge that crosses dria, while to its east is the historic Rosetta,
the Suez Canal. It is, however, far from where the Rosetta Stone, an important ar-
landlocked. Its north coast is lapped by the tefact that was key to deciphering ancient
Mediterranean, while its lower east coast Egyptian hieroglyphic writing, was discov-
and south Sinai lie alongside the Red Sea. ered. Further along the coast is Damietta
and Port Said.
The country has long played an important
role in connecting Africa with Asia, and The Nile Valley stretches from the delta to
the Mediterranean with the Indian Ocean, Egypt’s southernmost border with Sudan,
and as such has been at the centre of the and along with its great cities is home to
world’s political and economical arena some of the world’s most iconic symbols
for centuries. It is a vast country, totalling of ancient civilizations. It is here visitors
well over million square kilometres. That’s can see the three Great Pyramids of Giza
four times the size of the United Kingdom and the Sphinx that ‘guards’ them, the
and twice the size of France, and yet most fabulous Luxor Temple and the Karnak
of its cities like Cairo, Aswan, Asyut and Temples in Luxor, the Valley of the Kings
Luxor hug the shores of the Nile Valley. Even and, of course, the Nile River itself. The
Alexandria, the country’s second largest Sahara Desert, the world’s second largest,
city after Cairo, is in the Nile Delta. makes up much of Egypt’s distinct desert
and oasis areas, which are fascinating
Egypt has four distinct areas. The Nile Delta, if sparsely inhabited, while the Sinai Pe
itself, is a stretch of land that fans out north ninsula and the Red Sea coastline and
from a point close to Cairo where the Nile resorts are the country’s top spots for family
splits into smaller flows of water, reaching a fun and water sport themed holidays.
stretch of coastline that runs from Alexan-
dria to Port Said. At the coast the waters of
ENVIRONMENT
A fabulously rich history and achieve- Nile Valley that leave you breathless
ments sit comfortably with the Egypt of at their bustling cities and ancient tem-
today. Deserts that stretch for kilometres ples. Visitors arrive in their thousands, are
into the distance and holiday resorts with totally captivated and return time after
top notch hotels offering family fun such time. Whether it’s a view of the sun going
as swimming and diving in the Red Sea down behind the centuries-old pyramids,
contrast well with the Nile Delta and the turning the sky to a magical bright orange,

5. Nile Valley
or seeing the mesmerising sun-scorched Muslim, although over 12 million are Chris-
Sphinx, the priceless treasures contained tians. The atmosphere is one of friendship.
tantalisingly behind glass in Cairo’s Egyp- Egyptians like to work hard and live life to
tian Museum or standing in awe of the the full, and tend to work in the heart of the
fabulous temples the sights of the world’s cities which have seen many changes in
most entrancing country stay with visitors recent years and are now at the forefront
for a lifetime. of world politics, or working the agricultural
lands of the Nile Valley or in tourism. Every-
Add to this experiences of seeing one of one can enjoy lively cultural experiences
Egypt’s most trusted residents, the camel, too - everything from the latest art sensa-
make its way casually across the sands, tions to music, theatre and dance.
perhaps dressed in brightly coloured rugs
and tassels for a festival, street vendors Egypt is a warm country for most of the
selling their goods in the bustling souks, year. Some days in summer the tempera-
WELCOME TO THE NILE VALLEY
children playing in the streets, craftspeople tures can reach 25-35C (95F) in Cairo, and
weaving carpets or locals mingling in an so the way Egyptians live tends to reflect
animated fashion around the streets, all of this as it has done for centuries. The pace
which sit well with innovative new commer- of life is generally slow, and although city
cial buildings, and you have a country that centres often appear bustling it isn’t long
will become part of your soul. before everyone gives in and finds a cool
place to rest awhile.
Egypt is a religious country. Islam is the
official religion and most Egyptians are
HISTORY
The history of Egypt stretches back to a series of dynasties that ruled the coun-
unimaginable times. It is a country prob- try, began in around 3100 BC. The first
ably best known to the world over for its pharaoh is generally believed to have
pharaohs, such as Tutankhamun, and been Menes, who was instrumental in
its ancient civilizations that largely existed joining a then divided Egypt into one. The
along the banks of the Nile River and country was known as tawy, meaning ‘two
created so many of its iconic structures. lands’.
The earliest signs of civilization have been A total of 30 dynasties ruled over the next
dated to prehistoric times, although the three millennia until around the year 30 BC.
towns and cities of today can probably Many, if not all of the pharaohs, wanted
trace their roots back to around 8000 to put their own mark on Egypt and had
BC when the Sahara was formed and supremely beautiful palaces, temples,
settlers started moving closer to the fertile tombs and structures built. It was dur-
land of the Nile River banks and eventually ing this time that most of the astonishing
created communities. These ancient sights that can still be seen today were
civilisations developed and grew almost constructed, among them the Pyra-
entirely because of the Nile during a period mids of Giza and the Sphinx of the Old
known as the predynastic, a time before Kingdom, and the Temples of Luxor in
the pharaohs ruled the country. the New Kingdom.
The dynastic period, widely regarded as Egypt has seen many periods of history
one of the oldest ever cultural periods in since the ancient dynastic era and has
the world and so called because it was reminders of how it flourished under
different civilizations. 7

6. Nile Valley
E G Y P T
G U I D E
Welcome To The
HISTORY
It has been occupied by the Persians, came king in 1333 BC, becoming the
Romans, the Greeks, Arabs, Ottoman Turks, Pharaoh of the 18th dynasty, and whose
British and the French, but it is probably solid gold death mask is probably the most
the pharaohs that have left the most mes- famous artefact ever found in Egypt. Or
merising legacy on the country and one the beautiful Nefertiti, the wife of the
which makes tourism one of the country’s Egyptian Pharaoh Akhenaton, who might
leading industry sectors today. have ruled in her own right before
Tutankhamun became king. Both-from
Who cannot be captivated by the story many-make Egypt legendary.
of Tutankhamen, the young boy who be-
SOCIOECONOMIC
Today, Egypt is one of the key political Far fewer people live in areas like the
and cultural leaders in the Middle East. Sahara Desert, which although massive is
It has a buoyant economy as a result of unsympathetic to human needs, while Si-
economic reforms and foreign investment nai and the Red Sea coastal areas have
and a rapidly evolving high technology strong population figures, especially in the
communications sector. Its government major towns which have good general
continues to pledge investment into its in- infrastructures and amenities. There are
frastructure of highways, railways and wa- healthcare facilities, shops, restaurants,
terways that stretch from the north coast many sports centres, especially those for
and the Nile Delta to the southern points of water sports, and top hotels. The popu-
the Nile Valley at Aswan and Abu Simbel, lation in these areas is bolstered by the
into the Western Desert and across to the many visitors who arrive during the summer
Red Sea coast and into Sinai. months on leisure, sea & land adventures,
spa and wellness holidays, golf lovers, and
Egypt also has one of the highest popula- short breaks.
tions of all the countries in this part of the
world with around 75.5 million people. Egyptian society is geared very much
Many live in the densely populated cities around the family, and it is not uncommon
to see all generations dining together or
of Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor and Aswan,
on an outing. Religion is important, with
where they are engaged in commerce,
Muslims and Christians living and work-
politics, retailing and tourism, while others
ing together in harmony. As a visitor, you
live in rural areas near the banks of the Nile
will always be made to feel welcome and
River and are engaged in agriculture. The
protected.
rich soil of the banks provides the most ara-
ble agricultural land in Egypt today as it has
done for around 10,000 years. It is on this
land that man has relied on since ancient
times. Without the river the country would
likely only ever have been desert. Much of
Egypt’s national income relies on agricul-
ture, along with tourism, petroleum exports
and capital generated by traffic using the
Suez Canal.
Giza Pyramids

7. Nile Valley
THE NILE VALLEY
to see the Colossus of Ramses II, the
Serapeum and the ancient cemetery
too. Spend time in Old Cairo. It’s rather
like a living museum of historic and reli-
gious buildings, plus traditional markets
to snap up some souvenirs to take home.
And, of course, no visit to Cairo would be
complete without a visit to the Egyptian
Museum. It is one of the world’s most fa-
mous museums with an astonishing collec-
tion of ancient artefacts. Its most famous
WELCOME TO THE NILE VALLEY
displays are treasures from Tutankhamun’s
tomb.
Heading south, the Nile River flows through
Al-Fayoum, Biba, Beni Mazar and on
to the delightful El Minya. It has beauti-
Karnak Temple ful villas reminiscent of those found in old
Tuscany which were built by the cotton
The second longest river in the world,
merchants who made the town wealthy.
the Nile follows a path along the length of
The trading centre of Asyut and famou
Egypt from its southernmost boundary to
Dandara are reached, and then it’s on to
the north Mediterranean coast, Damietta,
the wondrous Luxor and Thebes with their
and on to its sources, the White Nile and
fabulous temples, museums and tombs.
the Blue Nile, in the depths of Africa.
Here the world famous iconic Karnak
Alexandria, the country’s second largest
Temples and the Luxor Temple, the
city and founded by Alexander the Great,
Valley of the Kings and the Valley
hugs the Mediterranean coastline to the
of the Queens, the Temple of Hat-
north and forms part of the Nile Delta along
shepsut, the colossi of Memnon and
with two branches Damietta and Rosetta
the Ramesseum are just some of the
which embrace the highly fertile agricul-
sights that simply cannot be missed.
tural lands of the Delta
Every visit to Egypt should include time
spent in Luxor.
Visitors to Egypt should always schedule
into their agenda a stay in Cairo. One of
Finally, the Nile Valley reaches Esna and
the last remaining seven wonders of the
Kom Ombo, both historic sites, Aswan
ancient world, the Pyramids at Giza are
which has a large Nubian community,
‘must sees’. The Great Pyramid was built
temples and the feat of engineering the
by King Cheops of the 5th dynasty around
Aswan Dam to see, and finally to Abu
2600 BC and stands some 137 metres
Simbel where the notable Great Temple
high. It’s well worth stepping inside to see
of Abu Simbel and the Temple of Hathor
the fabulous chambers. There are two
make a remarkable sight carved into sheer
other large pyramids to see, plus lots of
rock faces.
smaller ones dedicated to family mem-
bers of the kings.
The Nile Valley is a mix of the old and the
A few steps away is the huge Sphinx with its
new, the classic and the innovative. It is
body of a lion and a human head. Make
cultural Egypt at its best.
a point of visiting Memphis and Saqqara
9

8. Romance
Sailing the Nile...
There’s nothing quite like a touch of The Nile has held a fascination for
romance under the stars with that centuries and even today conjures
special person, and if you happen up images of whimsical days and
to be on the Nile drifting slowly along romantic nights on board elegant
past temples and sand dunes watch- steamers, but then perhaps that’s all
ing the sun set together then it doesn’t down to English novelist Agatha Chris-
get much more memorable than tie and her famous work “Death on
that. It will be a highlight of a holiday the Nile”. The book was later made
in Egypt. into a film starring Peter Ustinov as the
Belgian detective Hercule Poirot and
much of the filming was done in the
Nile Valley.
Cruising on the Nile has been
a popular pastime for count-
less visitors since the 19th cen-
tury. Florence Nightingale was so
captivated by the river and wrote
about it in glowing terms, and
Thomas Cook, the entrepreneur
behind the leading travel com-
pany, was so smitten he began
offering cruises to his clientele,
one of the first to do so.
To enjoy your ultimate romantic
adventure make sure you book
your cruise between Luxor
& Aswan around the time of
El Sadda El Shitwia ( the time
of closing the Nile, lock of Esna
two weeks each December &
June otherwise you will use land
transportation to reach Luxor
from Esna

9. ROMANCE
There are a number of ways to sail on or head north towards Luxor. Your
the Nile. You can take a short hop cruise might then see you sailing
of a few hours on a cruise boat or to Kom Ombo to see the Temple of
a felucca, a small wooden sailing Sobek and Hareoeris, a captivat-
boat, and while this doesn’t give you ing sight from the river. Then it’s on-
the full experience of a romantic jour- wards to Edfu and maybe stopping
ney elegantly drifting down the Nile it awhile to visit the Temple of Horus and
does give you a taste. It’s especially Esna to see the Temple of Khunum.
good way to sail if you have a limited Finally, your cruise might end in Lux-
amount of time. or where you can visit the fabulous
Karnak Temples, the Luxor Temple and
Another way is to take a journey the museum, or take a trip to the
of several days on board one of extraordinary Valley of the Kings.
the cruise ships or restored ornate
steamers that are a familiar sight Some ships may start at Luxor and so
along the Nile. Many are to a luxuri- your journey will be in reverse, or you
ous 5-star standard, complete with may choose to travel beyond Luxor
wood-cladded walls, top notch lin- and see Dandara or Abydos, but all will
ens and gourmet cuisine. They have sail at a slow pace, giving you time
become as much a part of the Egypt to see the sights, relax and take in the
scene as the Pyramids. atmosphere. You will be able to wave
to children on the riverbank and see
Typically, a cruise will see you board- fishing boats go by.
ing the ship at Aswan, setting sail It’s a great way to combine a trip on
and seeing great sights. You can the river with seeing the ancient sites
take a luxury cruise to Abu Simbel along the way too. Be sure to share
passing by Kalabsha, Bait el-Walli, the memorable experience with
Wadi el-Subua and Amada Temple loved ones.
11

10. Urban life...
While Egypt will be forever famous The country’s people work mainly in
for its ancient civilizations and agriculture, the petroleum industry,
pharaohs, it is also home to around commerce, government and tourism,
75.5 million people who live and although real estate linked to
work here today. Egypt has a strong tourist hotspots is starting to be-
political, religious and cultural identity. come a buoyant sector too. The vast
In addition, you can experience both majority of Egyptians live and work in
the feel of ancient life when you the cities of the Nile Valley. Here you
visit the historical places as well as can find trendy cafes and restau-
modern life through technology rants serving Egyptian and Interna-
found throughout the country. tional cuisine, bustling souks, leisure
opportunities, sports and venues full
of cultural experiences from art to
theatre and dance.
Much of daily urban life revolves
around the cities’ souks and
markets. Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili,
for instance, is an astonishing
labyrinth of shops teeming with
locals and tourists alike.
Almost every neighbourhood will
have a market selling fruit and
vegetables, and it is from these
that most Egyptians will buy their
fresh products.
Khan el-Khalili
Egypt’s economy is booming
through tourism, oil and gas
exports, revenue from the Suez
Canal and foreign investment.
City Stars Mall

11. URBAN LIFE
Bibliotheca Alexandrina
Egypt is changing though and now Art galleries and cultural centres,
more shopping malls complete with conference venues, theatres and
glass lifts, shiny decors, swish shops cinemas are all growing in number.
and even cinemas are emerging. The El Sawy Culture Wheel art centre
A casual stroll around one of the malls in Zamalek, which hosts contempo-
will reveal names like Nike and Adi- rary art collections, and the fabulous
das, with music from the likes of Justin Cairo Opera House where the Cairo
Timberlake emerging from stores sell- Symphony Orchestra perform.
ing CDs. The malls tend to be located There are venues in Luxor, Aswan and
in modern Cairo, or cities such as Al- the Sinai and Red Sea resorts.
exandria.
In Alexandria, Opera House and Sayed
The trendy set is leading the way when Darwish Theatre has concerts and
it comes to nightlife and culture, es- dance events, while the city’s Biblioth-
pecially in Cairo and Alexandria. Where eca Alexandrina is a futuristic build-
once entertainment consisted solely ing containing a library of millions of
of traditional music and dancing the books and multimedia, three muse-
choice is expanding as Egyptians be- ums, a planetarium, four art galleries
come more accustomed to western and numerous exhibition centres. It is
styles too. Concerts by worldwide rock a fabulous facility for the people of
stars and westernised classical music, Egypt.
musical theatre, opera and ballet
can all be found. Even the historic
sights have adopted new technology
by offering sound and light shows (at
the Pyramids of Giza, the Karnak Temples
in Luxor, Philae temple in Aswan, and in
Abu Simbel)
13

12. Nature
Much of the Nile Valley lies in what The climate provides the perfect
is known as the Upper Egypt, environment for many species of
a stretch of fertile land that runs animals, reptiles and amphibians.
from the southernmost boundar- This area is home to turtles and tor-
ies of Cairo due south to Aswan. toises, frogs, mongooses and the
To the north it is bordered by the Nile Monitor, a fabulous if some-
Nile Delta. To the east there’s the what menacing prehistoric-like liz-
Eastern Desert and the Western ard that can grow up to two metres
Desert to the west. long.
Upper Egypt has by far the richest
soil and it is here that most of the
crops is grown. Almost all of the
75.5 million population relies on
the region for food. It is also here,
that most of the plants and wildlife
species of Egypt thrive. Look out
for the Lotus Flower. Its bright petals
provide a carpet of colour over the
Nile riverbanks in summer months.
Also the bright yellow pom-poms of
the Acacia tree can be spotted.
Middle Egypt and the northern
areas of Upper Egypt enjoy a warm
climate, with dry summers and very
little rainfall. July and August are the
hottest months.

13. Egyptian countryside
NATURE
The Nile Valley is also a birdwatch- 3.5 per cent of the total million
ers paradise. Ornithologists come or more square kilometres being
to see the incredible number cultivated.
of birds that live or winter in the
region, including Little Gulls, The Nile Valley becomes more
Whiskered Terns and the small desert-like the closer you get to
wader, the Kentish Plover. The Grey Aswan and beyond to Kom Ombo
Heron makes a dramatic sight and Abu Simbel. The desert envi-
in the marshy areas too, as does ronment is ideal for Fennec foxes,
similar species of egret. Birds have the Desert Lynx, snakes such as
always played an important role the Spitting Cobra, the iconic
in both day-to-day life and the symbol of Pharaonic Egypt, and
sacred culture of Egypt. There are scorpions, all of which should be
over 150 indigenous species of treated with respect.
birds that live here all year round,
with a further 280 or more species The Nile Valley, the delta and
migrating in the summer months. the surrounding desert is a
fabulous mix of contrasts with vastly
As you travel further south along different natural environments and
the Nile the temperature rises. habitats.
Summer temperatures in Aswan
are dry and warm, although if
planning an excursion into the des-
ert go in the morning before the
sun is high. The desert makes up
well over 90 per cent of the land
mass of Egypt, leaving only around
15

14. k
Gastronomy
Egyptian cuisine...
Some of the world’s most delicious such as melokiyah made from
and healthiest cuisine can be found green leafy vegetables.
in Egypt. With influences from the There are many soup recipes
Mediterranean and Europe, Africa that use tomatoes, watercress,
and the Middle East, the dishes of pulses or beans, with herbs such as
modern day Egypt combine fresh fennel giving them a real kick.
often brightly coloured vegetables Garlic is used lavishly, as is onion.
and fruit straight off the trees with Spices too.
fish, seafood, meats and an abun-
dance of pulses, aromatic herbs
and strong spices.
While many cooking practices are
much the same as they were in
Pharaonic times, the periods of
history that saw, among others,
the Ottomans and the French live
alongside the Egyptians, bringing
with them their very distinct style of
cooking, has left an indelible mark.
Typically, a meal will start with soup,
Traditional herbs
When the Great Pyramids of Giza
were excavated it was found that
workers in Ancient Egypt were paid
with onions and a type of bread
that would have been coarse and
filling. The two remain staple foods Egyptian bread
of the Egyptian diet today. It was
discovered that many workers also
received beer made from cereals

15. k
Salads
EGYPTIAN CUISINE
Egyptian restaurants will have rows beans served with boiled eggs, and
of dishes full of brightly coloured the popular falafel, a dish of spicy
spices that are a key ingredient. beans mashed together with herbs
Soups are served with flatbreads like into patties and fried.
aish or pitta.
Almost all meals will be served with a
Fresh fish (samak), seafood or fish fresh salad, and probably some dips
stew accompanied by rice may like hummus or tahini, or the local
follow. Meat is prepared to perfec- babaganoush, a dip made from
tion. Chicken, lamb and veal are the pureed eggplant. Foul is a flavour-
most popular, and usually slow roast- some dip made from beans, mashed
ed, grilled with lots of herbs, or minced with olive oil, lemon and herbs.
and added to dishes like stuffed vine
leaves. Pigeon, hamaam, is consid- Egyptian desserts usually take the
ered a delicacy, and you will find it’s form of a rice pudding made with
always delicious as it is cooked with rosewater and sprinkled with spice,
much care. or yoghurt or pastries filled with
figs, nuts or dates. Honey is often
Koshari is a national dish and can drenched over desserts in much the
be found delicately prepared on same way as is done in Middle East-
gourmet menus, as well as in ‘fast ern or Mediterranean countries. Fresh
food’ outlets or on street carts. Made fruit, especially figs and dates, as well
from macaroni or spaghetti, rice, as oranges will almost certainly be
lentils and chickpeas, all served with served at the end of a meal.
a thick garlic and tomato sauce,
topped with fried onions and herbs, it
may sound a rare combination but is
truly delicious. Other traditional dishes
include Foul Medames, a dish of
17

16. Pharaonic Egypt
The history of Egypt can be traced ers, or Nefertiti, the wife of the
back to prehistoric times and when Egyptian pharaoh Akhenaten,
the Sahara Desert wasformed who might have ruled in her
in around 8000 BC, prompting own right. Her life, as well as the
early civilizations to move closer location of her tomb, remains a
towards the Nile in order to catch tantalising mystery.
fish and grow crops, but it is Phar-
aonic Egypt that began some The start of Pharaonic Egypt saw
5,000 years ago that truly cap- more than 3000 years of remark-
tures the imagination of people able achievements and pros-
the world over. Great people perity, with the pharaohs being
from 30 different dynasties, their the most important people in
lives, cultures and phenomenal the land. They created strong
knowledge of mummification, government, military and reli-
mathematics and astronomy gious structures, held court and
have created iconic images of ruled the land unquestioned.
an ancient Egypt. They were worshipped as if gods
and had phenomenal wealth,
Who cannot be intrigued by which they lavished on building
the lives of ancient kings like temples and other monuments.
Tutankhamun, the young boy
who came to the throne in Abu Simbel Temple
around 1333 BC. He ruled for
just ten years and his golden
death mask unearthed when his
tomb was discovered the Valley
of the Kings near Luxor in 1922 is
one of the most fabulous trea-
sures in the world today.
Or the great female pharaoh
Hatshepsut who was the
longest ruling Egyptian king
(indeed people considered her
as a king and not a queen) the
mighty Ramses II who changed Giza Pyramid
the face of ancient Egypt and
defended it against invad-

17. PHARAONIC EGYPT
Tutankhamun’s mask
The Pharaonic period, known as the understanding of the science of
Dynastic era because Egypt was mathematics and still perplex
ruled by a series of dynasties, in fact experts today.
30 in total, began around 3150 BC
under the first Pharaoh who united The next period of pharaonic rule
the then divided Upper and Lower was known as the First Intermedi-
Egypt. The first pharaoh is widely ate Period starting in around 2150
believed to have been Menes, BC, followed by the Middle King-
although there is belief that he was dom from around 2000 BC when
in fact the pharaoh Narmer or Aha the capital became Thebes, the
depicted in many archaeological next period, the New Kingdom,
records. He established a capital began around 1539 BC and gave
called Memphis, which became us some of the greatest pharaohs
the heart of the country. of all time, including Ahmose,
Hatshepsut, Akhenaten and
There is little known about the kings Tutankhamun. In around 1279 BC
of the 1st and 2nd dynasties, but the heroic Ramses II came to the
it is the kings from the 3rd dynasty throne where he stayed for over
onwards in a period that became 67 years.
known as the Old Kingdom who Pharaonic Egypt, meaning a
made Egypt one of the wealthiest land ruled by Pharaohs, ended in
in the ancient world. Massive and around 30 BC, although a form of
elaborate buildings were erected, monarchy continued for several
the culmination of which was the thousand years until the country
Pyramids and the Sphinx in Giza. was conquered by the Romans.
The Pyramids are an extraordinary ex- Leading figures include Alexander
ample of the pharaoh’s advanced the Great and Cleopatra.
19

18. Marsa Matruh Beach
The Coast: from Marsa
Matruh to Damietta,
Rosetta and Port Said
With its jugged coastline, bays and long sweeps of golden sands, the north coast of
Egypt is quiet, supremely beautiful and attracts a steady stream of visitors. It stretches
from Sallum to the west, the last Egyptian town before hitting the Libyan border which
perches high on the cliff looking out to sea, along the coast road to Marsa Matruh,
El-Alamein, the huge colonial city of Alexandria to Abu Quir in the Nile Delta,
the famous Rosetta and to Damietta and Port Said at the mouth of the Suez Canal.
Along the way you will see historic monuments and wonderful beaches.
MARSA MATROUH
Located some 290 kilometres from Alexandria, Marsa
Matrouh is a gem. It is hugely popular with Egyptians looking for
their own escape from the busy cities, and families can often be
seen enjoying the seven or so kilometres of soft white sand that
are protected by a necklace of natural rocky breakwaters. Calm
turquoise seas lap the shores of the bay.
There are several beaches, including the Cleopatra Beach that
lies just to the west of the town, the quiet and relaxing Ra-as
Al-Hakma Beach, Al-Abyad Beach and Agiba Beach. Marsa Ma-
truth town, itself, is said to have been founded by Alexander the
Great on his way to Siwa where he was to pay homage to the
god Amun.
Other attractions for visitors are the remains of a navel fleet
anchorage built by the Ptolemies, a Coptic chapel and the
Rommel Museum created within a cave where Erwin
Rommel, a German Commander, is said to have finalised his
military plans during the Second World War. The museum
displays arms and tools from the period. Marsa Matruh, Agiba Beach
EL-ALAMEIN
El-Alamein is 200 kilometres or so further along the coast road from Marsa Matruh. A
small village that is developing into a popular tourist spot, it is best known for the
important role it played in the Second World War. Visitors can visit a war museum
that tells of the battles that changed the campaign in the Allies’ favour, as well as
the Commonwealth War Cemetery with monuments dedicated to the Greek, South
African, Australian and New Zealand troops who fought on the British side, and
cemeteries commemorating the bravery of the Italian
and German soldiers.
DON’T There were two battles fought in El Alamein, the first inJuly
MISS 1942, when Axis troops tried unsuccessfully to advan-
Agiba Beach, meaning ceon Alexandria, and the second when British General
wonder, which lives up Montgomery’s 8th Army fought a bitter battle withRom-
to its name with natural mel’s troops who were forced to retreat to Tunisia. Brit-
caves and coves to ish Prime Minister Winston Churchill said of the battles,
explore. “Before Alamein we had no victory and after it we had
no defeats.”

19. INFO POINT
Continuing along the coast road, you
pass the road to Abu Mina and its beau-
tiful Coptic Monastery of Abu Mina, Deir
Mari Mina, which honours the saint Mina Mediterranean Coast
or Mena as it is sometimes spelt. He is one
of the best known Egyptian saints and, as Marsa Damietta
the story goes, many miracles have been Matruh Rosetta
Sidi Abd
attributed to him. It is believed he was El Rahman Port Said
Th
Alexandria Nil
e
tortured and killed for his religious beliefs eD
elta
El Alamein Porto
by Asia Minor rulers in the 3rd century and Marina
today pilgrims regularly visit the site, es- Cairo
pecially on November 11, St Mina’s Day.
ile River
The monastery, which is relatively new and
stands on the site of an ancient basilica, is Fayoum
Oasis
known throughout Egypt. The village, itself,
eN
is a World Heritage Site and well worth a
THE COAST : FROM MARSA MATRUH TO DAMIETTA, ROSETTA AND PORT SAID
Th
visit.
The resort of Agami has been top of the
list Legende
for holidaying professionals from Cairo EASY TRAVEL
and Alexandria since the 1950s. It is the Alexandria and Marsa Matruth have air-
last town along the coast before you en-
ter the environs of the elegant Alexandria, ports with regular flights most of the year,
Egypt’s second largest city and known as and the coast is well served by train and
the ‘Pearl of the Mediterranean’. bus services from Alexandria and Cairo.
Port Said Tourist Office :
Phone : 066 3235289 - Fax : 066 3235289
Marsa Matruh Tourist Office :
Phone : 046 4931841 - Fax : 046 4931841
Rosetta, Muallaq Mosque
ROSETTA (RASHID)
Rosetta Stone
Rosetta, or Rashid as it is historically known,
lies 60 or so kilometres east of Alexandria.
A bustling port town, Rosetta can trace its
history way back to 800 AD when it was
founded by the Muslim governor of Egypt,
Ibn Tulun. Known for its beautiful Ottoman
mansions from the time of the Ottoman
conquest when, as a port, it was immensely
prosperous, its citrus groves and its elegant
feel, Rosetta has long been a popular holi-
day spot. What really puts it on the map
however is the fact that it was here that the
Rosetta Stone was discovered in 1799.
An Egyptian stone slab from the Ptolemaic Port Said
era, the Rosetta Stone has proved key to de-
ciphering the ancient hieroglyphic style of
writing discovered in places like the tombs DID YOU KNOW?
of the Valley of the Kings. Hieroglyphic was
The north coast was Cleopatra’s
the form of writing used in Egypt 3,000 years
ago, but it took until the discovery of the a favourite spot and, accord-
stone and the work of a 19th century sci- ing to legend, she would bathe
entist and professor to understand it. Finally, in the clear waters. Cleopatra
the coastal journey ends at Damietta and was the monarch of Egypt dur-
Port Said, both busy ports, and the famous ing the time of Caesar as the
Suez Canal. country entered its Roman era.
21

20. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina
Alexandria
PEARL OF THE MEDITERRANEAN
A 20 kilometre-long palm tree-lined esplanade and boulevards, swish hotels, long stretches
of fine sandy beach and gardens characterise Alexandria, widely considered to be one of
the finest summer resorts in this part of the world. Unlike many other areas of Egypt, its cultural
heritage, climate of warm summers, mild winters and pleasingly warm spring and autumn
months and its cosmopolitan atmosphere give it a Mediterranean feel. Alexandria is known
as the ‘Pearl of the Mediterranean’.
Egypt’s second largest city with a population of around
four million, Alexandria is the country’s largest seaport
and the centre of much of its maritime activity. It is
also one of the oldest cities in Egypt and lies around
225 kilometres northwest of Cairo. As records suggest,
Alexandria was established by Alexander the Great
in around 332 BC on the site of a small village called
Rhakotis. He wanted to create one of the finest capital
cities in the world, and one for which his reign would go
down in history.
Alexandria remained the capital of Egypt for nearly a
thousand years and was immensely prosperous be-
cause of its strategic trading location between the
Mediterranean and the Red Sea. It also became the
centre of learning for the ancient world, and retains its
academic importance to this day. Alexandria seafront
Among the sights for visitors to see is the beautiful Montazah Palace, which is perched on a
hill overlooking the sea. It was once the summer home of the Egyptian royal family and now
houses a museum in their honour. Built to a Turkish and Italian architectural design, it stands
in some of the prettiest gardens in Alexandria. They are open to the public and well worth a
visit.
Holidaying visitors flock to Alexandria for its good diving sites, and its beaches which are
among the best in Egypt if not the Mediterranean. Its most famous are the beaches of
Al-Ma’moura, Mandara, Al-Assafrah, Mami, Sidi Bishr
and Montazah, as well as Sidi Gaber, Rushdi, Stanley,
DON’T Gleem and Cleopatra. All are dotted along the corniche, the
seafront boulevard.
MISS
The Shallalat Gardens Qaitbay Citadel, a turreted fortress that was built in the 15th
in the Al Shatby district century on the site of the Lighthouse of Alexandria, one of the
is a massive expanse of Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, is a ‘must see’. It is said
lawns, trees and shrubs that stones from the original lighthouse built in the 3rd century
with lakes designed so BC on an island in the harbour were used in its construction.
that the water tumbles Excavations in the harbour continue to this day, and recently
in waterfalls. It is a calm there have been more ancient stone found which in all likeli-
space in a busy city. hood once formed part of the lighthouse’s structure. The city
Also the Mediterranean- has many mosques too, the most notable being the Al-Mursi
style street cafes. Abul Abbas with a towering minaret and domes that dominate
the city’s skyline, and the 14th century Al-Attareen Mosque.

21. INFO POINT
The Graeco-Roman Museum, located in
To Abu Quir and Rosetta
the heart of modern Alexandria, houses an
impressive collection of 40,000 or more ar-
a
Montazah
Se
tefacts found in and around the city, some a Palace
n
dating as far back to 332 BC. The museum ne
rra
was founded in the 19th century, quickly ite San Stefano
Med
became an important exhibitor of ancient Stanley
artefacts and remains a key amenity in
Qaitbay
Alexandria today, along with the National Citadel
a
Museum of Alexandria.
Delt
Al-Mursi
Abul Abbas Bibliotheca Alexandrina
Mosque National Museum of Alexandrina
Roman Graeco-Roman Museum
le
Ni
Amphitheatre e
Pompey’s Pillar Th
Catacombs at
Kom el Shoqafa Desert Highway,
To El Alamein To Wadi El Natroun
and Cairo
EASY TRAVEL
Alexandria has its own international air-
port, as well as being a seaport for cruise
ships. It is served by the express service
buses and rail network that link it to Cairo
and other major towns and cities.
Fish market
ALEXANDRIA
Alexandria also has lots of archaeological
sites too, including a Roman amphitheatre You can live different experiences by
at Kom Al-Dekka, a Serapium pillar dat- exploring the under-water treasures in
ing from the 3rd century known as Pompey’s Alexandria. Don’t miss also the Wadi El
Pillar, the ancient catacombs at Kom el Sho- Natroun Monasteries.
qafa that show a mix of Pharaonic and Greco
Roman art, the Al-Shatby Necropolis site and a Along the Mediterrean coast luxurious
series of tombs. resorts open their endless possibilities for
memorable vacations (one of them is
The city, however, while celebrating its glorious Porto Marina).
past also has a thoroughly modern approach
to providing facilities for its residents and visitors.
This is supremely evident in the opening of the
Bibliotheca Alexandrina, an important library Alexandria Tourist Office :
and cultural centre designed to put Alexandria Phone : 034843380/51556
back on the academic map. It stands near the Fax : 034843380
site of the ancient Library of Alexandria dating
from the 3rd century, which was considered
to be the largest library in the ancient world.
Among the famous scholars who studied here
are mathematicians Euclid in 300 BC and Her-
on in 62 AD, and philosopher and astronomer
Eratosthenes in around 200 BC.
The Bibliotheca Alexandrina opened in 2002
following a competition organised by UNESCO
to find the best architectural design for the
commemorative building. A futuristic design
was chosen, complete with a glass roof angled
so that it faces the sea. There are specialised
libraries for children, those who are blind or visu-
ally impaired and the young, along with sec-
tions dedicated to the arts, multimedia, audio-
visual, microforms and rare books.
This extraordinary facility also has four art galler-
Kom el-Shoqafa
ies for temporary exhibitions and a further nine
for permanent displays, three museums dedi-
cated to antiquities, manuscripts and science,
a planetarium, internet archive, a manuscript DID YOU KNOW?
restoration laboratory and seven academic
research centres. Its cultural centre has nine The Bibliotheca Alexandrina
screens for projection presentations, and an has a library capable of hold-
interactive environment. It is a fabulous facility ing eight million books, and is
for the people of Alexandria, an award-winner one of the largest libraries in the
and considered one of the leading such cen- world.
tres in the world.
23

22. Giza, Sphinx and the Pyramids
Cairo and Giza
To say Cairo is a city of contrasts is perhaps an under-
statement. It is an astonishing mix of reminders from
an ancient world that sit, surprisingly comfortably, with
modern day life. You can see historic buildings and
market squares in Old Cairo, fabulous Mamluk and
Ottoman mosques, Christian churches, swish hotels and
contemporary commercial offices in Greater Cairo, lush
parks, residential areas and the amazing area where
the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx in Giza dominate
the skyline and the city meets the desert.
Add to this the chance of visiting the Egyptian Muse-
um where exhibits are too ancient and too fabulous
to comprehend, the streets of Khan el-Khalili, the old-
est bazaar in the world, and the huge museum and
cultural centre complex of the Opera House and you
have a city that captivates. To visit Cairo, one of the
largest and most densely populated cities in the world
with a population said to be almost 8 million in the
metropolitan area alone, will be a thoroughly memo-
rable, if hectic, and at times bewildering, experience.
Sphinx
Millions of Egyptian live
and work in the city,
with the total number of
people bolstered by tour-
ists from every corner of
the world at most times
of the years. Spring and
autumn tend to be the
busiest times as the sun is
not so hot, although winter
and summer see many
visitors too. Expect to hear
Japanese and Chinese,
American voices, Cana-
dians, French, Italian and
English among the throngs
Tutankhamum’s treasures of people who gather to
see the sights of this glori-
ous city.
DON’T
MISS Cairo lies on the banks of
The Sound and Light show at the Pyramids of Giza – the the Nile River, at the point
narrator of Egypt’s ancient history is the Sphinx itself.
where it splits in a fan-like
manner for its onward
Languages include French, English, Spanish, Arabic, Italian route north through the
and Japanese. Also don’t miss the chance of lunch or din- low-lying Nile Delta to the
ner on a floating restaurant – the often luxurious boats can Mediterranean. It is a warm
be seen moored along the riverside. city, although has a raising
humidly level due to the

23. DID YOU KNOW?
The best way to avoid having to queue to get into the Cairo Museum is to book
in advance or join a group visit. Mid-morning tends to be especially busy, so try
visiting early in the day or in the afternoon when it is quieter.
Nile. July to August are the hottest months when temperatures tend to be 30-40°C
(107.6oF), while in winter it is cooler at around 24-30°C (86oF). It has little rainfall.
Cairo is divided into several main areas, each with their own character and many
attractions that should be a ‘must’ on every visitors’ itinerary. Central Cairo, or Greater
Cairo, is where the administrative heart of the city, and indeed the country, is located. It
lies to the north of the city and takes in part of Giza on the western side of the river and
a large expanse of area to the east. The area feels contemporary and modern with a
network of wide 19th century boulevards resembling the layout of cities such as Paris,
shiny futuristic buildings, parklands, swish restaurants and hotels. It is quite different to
almost all other areas of the city.
The Corniche el-Nil runs along the length of the Nile on the east side and offers bridges
across the water to the island of Gezira in the Zamalek district, and in turn to the west
bank. The Cairo Tower, a tall television tower with a lattice-like exterior, is a famous land-
CAIRO AND GIZA
The Citadel
mark of the island and can be seen for some distance. You can go to the top for a
great panoramic view of the city. Central Cairo contains some fabulous sights, such as
the 19th century Midan Opera and Midan Ataba, the Mausoleum of former Prime Minister
Saad Zaghloul, Manial Palace which was once a royal home and the new sprawling
Opera House complex where residents and visitors can hear classical music and op-
era, and see dance performances, theatre and ballet.
Midan Tahrir is the busy heart of Central Cairo, and it is here where there are numerous
shops, cafes and restaurants in streets such as Qasr el-Nil. There’s also the American
University housed in a grand neo-Islamic building, plus the city’s absolute ‘must do’ at-
traction, the Egyptian Museum. You can reach it via the Sadat subway station.
Housed in a neo-classical building colour washed in pink, it is the home of the largest
collection of ancient Egyptian antiquities in the world. In fact, it is said there are around
120,000 pieces on display, including mummies, numerous sarcophagi and, of course,
the world famous Tut Ankh Amum (Tutankhamun) collection of gold and alabaster trea-
sures found when the boy pharaoh’s tomb was discovered in 1922.
You can also see a replica of the Rosetta Stone in the foyer as you enter the museum.
The original was discovered in Rosetta, Rashid, on the north coast and was
25

24. The Egyptian Museum
instrumental in deciphering hieroglyphics, the ancient
Egyptian form of handwriting that dates from before
Pharaonic Egypt times. If visiting the museum you can
book a guided tour or purchase a book and wander
around at your own pace. Allow several hours or, if a
dedicated Egyptologist, many days.
East of Central Cairo is the Islamic part of the city, while to
the south is the oldest. Full of atmosphere and charm,
they both are characterised by narrow streets and laby-
rinths of tiny alleyways and lanes, ancient architecture
seen on mosques and churches, and residential streets
that stretch for several kilometres into the distance.
Khan el-Khalili, the famous network of streets that
make up the largest bazaar in the Middle East, and
one of the oldest markets in the world, is in the Is-
lamic part of Cairo. It was built by Emir Djaharks el-
Khalili who created a khan, a caravanserai for trad-
ers. From as far back as 1382 traders have plied their
goods of gems, gold and silver, copper and highly
scented spices. Today, similar items can be found
although they are joined by trinkets more suited to Al-Azhar Mosque
holidaying visitors looking for a souvenir to take home.
To wander around the bazaar is fascinating, and good fun.
Nearby, is the great Mosque of Sayyidna al-Hussein, considered the holiest site in Cairo,
which is well worth seeing, along with the fabulously old Mosque of al-Azhar, the Mosque
of Ibn Tulun, the 12th century citadel built by Salah El Din to protect the city from invad-
ers, the Mosque of Mohamed Ali on the Citadel and the Wikalat al-Ghouri, a medieval
former caravanserai that now houses an arts and crafts centre. The Islamic part of the
city is generally bustling, but is a key area for visitors new to Cairo to experience.
To the west of Central Cairo are the Pyramids of Giza on the Giza plateau, not far from
the site of the ancient city of Memphis and Saqqara. The last remaining Seven Wonders
of the Ancient World, the pyramids are the iconic image of Egypt. You can visit the
Great Pyramid built for King Khufu of the 4th dynasty, the slightly smaller Pyramid of
Khafre dated from around 2500 BC and the Pyramid of Menkaure. Dotted around are
several smaller pyramids where members of the kings’ families would have been en-
tombed. To one side stands the much-photographed Sphinx with its body of a lion and
the head of a human, while a short walk away is the Solar Boat Museum that houses a
full-size ancient Egyptian boat that was discovered in pieces but put together again
with much care. It is fascinating to see.
Saqqara complex of pyramids and monuments, the centrepieces of which are the Step

25. INFO POINT
Pyramid of Djoser and the Pyramid of Sekhm-
ket, along with the city of Memphis that dur-
ing much of the Pharaonic Egypt period
ta
was the capital city.
el
D
le International
Ni
The Airport
Egyptian
Museum
Islamic Cairo /
Cairo Tower Khan el-Khalili bazaar
Sultan Hasan Mosque /
El Rifai’ Mosque Citadel
Coptic Monuments
Giza Old Cairo
Pyramids Coptic Museum
The
N
Sphinx
ile
River
Sakkarah
Memphis
EASY TRAVEL
Shuttle buses run regularly from Cairo
International Airport into the city centre,
plus there’s limousine and car hire
Coptic Cairo, St Georges’ Church facilities available. In town, there are
CAIRO AND GIZA
taxis galore. Look out for the black and
While the Pyramids of Giza and the beautiful white cars, which can be hailed, or book
Sphinx that ‘guards’ them date from Phara- a bright yellow air-conditioned City Cab.
onic times and are one of the oldest monu- Taxis also wait outside hotels. Cairo has
ments in the city today, Old Cairo, or Coptic a good metro and railway system and a
Cairo as it is known, is where the city actually bus network too.
began. In fact, the area, along with Mem-
phis, Saqqara and Dahshur, predates the Pyramids Tourist Office :
city as we know it today. Phone : 33838823 - Fax : 33853526
Old Cairo was founded in around the 6th Dowtown Cairo Tourist Office :
century AD, at a time when Alexandria was Phone : 23913454 - Fax : 23913454
the capital of Egypt and the Pyramids and Railway Station Ramses Tourist Office :
Sphinx lay way beyond the small commu-
nity’s boundary. Then the site that was to Phone : 25790767 - Fax : 25790767
become Cairo was little more than a few
dwellings on the banks of the Nile and a Cairo. Look out for the delicately carved
Roman fortress that guarded the route be- mashrabiya windows. Inside, the muse-
tween the ancient cities of Memphis and um offers a surprise at every turn. With
Heliopolis. one of the finest collections of Coptic art
in the world, it covers the periods from
As the stories go, an Arab general, Amr Ibn Pharaonic times through to Graeco-Ro-
al-Aas, decided the area was a good spot man and Islamic. On display are pulpits,
for establishing a much larger community ancient textiles and embroidered silks,
and began to construct homes and places icons, manuscripts and ceramics.
of worship. The community grew and grew
at a time when the country was predomi- Cairo’s history is wondrous. It has seen
nately Christian. Today, some of the most pharaohs, Christians and Islam follow-
historic and important Christian buildings ers, and has also been the seat of the
and churches in the city can be found in ruling Royal dynasty, the Fatimid Caliph-
the narrow little alleyways and streets of ate, the capital during the Mamluk and
Coptic Cairo. Be sure to visit the Church of Ottoman periods, and the centre of Na-
poleon’s empire when France occupied
St Barbara, one of the largest in Egypt, is still
used regularly for worship. Egypt in the 18th century. It retained its
capital city status under British rule until
Other buildings to look out for in this area Egypt became independent in 1922.
are the Church of St George, the Church of St Today, it is the administrative capital and
Sergius, which is the oldest church in Coptic heart of the country.
Cairo and lies a few feet below street level,
the Ben Ezra Synagogue, the Amr Ibn al-Aas
Mosque and the beautiful Hanging Church,
so called because it is built high on top of
the old Roman fortress structure, the Babylon
Fort. A splendid building, it has a distinctive
front façade with twin bell towers and inside
a vaulted roof and a series of columns.
The Coptic Museum tucked away down one
of the alleyways not far away is well worth
a visit too. It hides a lovely courtyard gar-
den behind its walls, which is a quiet place
to visit amongst the hustle and bustle of
Khan el-Khalili Bazaar
27

26. El Fayoum Oasis
El Fayoum
to Hermopolis
The stretch of Nile Valley from El Fayoum to Hermopolis, taking in the towns and areas
of Biba, Beni Suef, Beni Mazar, El Minya with its famous Beni Hassan Tombs, Mallawi
and Tel El Amarna is as popular with visitors as it is with residents of Cairo looking for a
break away from the city’s hustle and bustle. The landscape is one of beautiful scenery
and tall date palms combined with great expanses of land dedicated to agriculture, and
yet has a desert-like ambience.
EL FAYOUM
El Fayoum lies just to the west of the Nile, a few kilometres
south of Abusir, one of the most ancient archaeological sites in
Egypt. Its monuments include the Pyramid of Sahure, the Pyra-
mid of Nyuserre, the Pyramid of Neferirkare and the Pyramid of
Neferefere.
El Fayoum is a wondrous site. An exceptionally lush and green area
that comes into view as you head out through the sand dunes
of the Western Desert to the west of the Nile, it is Egypt’s largest
oasis. Surrounded by high plateaux, the city revolves around the
great and ancient Lake Qarun, which is fed by water from the Nile
via the Bahr Youssef. A series of canals were constructed by the
Pharaoh Amenemhat III of the 12th dynasty, around the time when
it was part of the ancient Moeris Lake, which lies 43 metres below
sea level.
Enjoying a temperate climate, the area is noted for its significant
leisure, cultural and historical importance. Said to have been a
favourite holiday spot of the pharaohs, the oasis saw many build-
ings constructed during the dynastic reigns and, indeed, in later
Qarun Lake
years meaning there are many reminders of ancient Pharaonic,
Graeco-Roman, Coptic and Islamic times.
Of the Pharaonic monuments to see there is the Hawara Pyramid built by Amenemhat III,
the Al-Lahoun Pyramid and the remains of the Amenemhat III pyramid, plus the fascinating
Senousert I Obelisk that stands at the entrance to El Fayoum. Look out also for the Medinet
Madi Temple dating from the 12th dynasty, the small temple of Qasr Al Sagha that lies just
to the north of the lake and Kiman Fares where the remains of
the original ancient city can be seen.
DON’T To see monuments from later periods head off north to the ruins
of the Karanis Town. Here there are temples, a Roman bath,
MISS winery and the remains of Coptic, early Arab and the ancient
The cemetery at Ptolemaic communities. Closer to the oasis are the remains
Mallawi, famous for of the ancient city of Um Al-Atal to see, the ruins of Demiet
its displays of beauti- al-Sebaa complete with ancient Greek monuments and the
ful ancient Pharaonic astonishing Qasr Qarum Temple where much of its original
and Greek art seen on decorative carvings and inscriptions can still be seen. Be sure
murals. to see the Pyramid of Meidum, a beautiful step structure that
is believed to have been built for the last pharaoh of the 3rd
Dynasty, Huni, and the nearby UNESCO sites of Wadi Rayyan
and Wadi El Hitan in the Valley of the Whales.

27. INFO POINT
El Fayoum has been both an ancient Christian
To Cairo Pyramid of
and Islamic settlement during its history, and Qasr Qarun Lake Qarun Meidum
there are beautiful churches and mosques to Temple Pyramid of
see too. The finest examples are the Al-Azab Valley El Fayoum Hawara
Monastery in Al-Azab village, which is easy of Whales
r
ve
to find just a few kilometres south of the city,
Ri
Wadi Beni Suef
ile
and contains a fascinating Coptic museum. El Rayyan
eN
There is also the Al-Malak Monastery and the Eastern Desert
Th
Western Desert
f
and the Red Sea
Islamic monuments of Qaitbay Mosque that
Bahr Yuse
dates from the Mameluke period and has the Bani Mazar
most delighted rostrum inlaid with ivory, plus
the Suspended Mosque to Prince Sulaiman,
so called because it is built on the side of a hill. El Minya
It dates from the Ottoman period. Bani Hassan
Hermopolis Tombs
Mallawi
Travelling south along the Nile from El Fayoum To Luxor
and the Valley
you pass through the small town of Biba, Beni of the Kings Tel El Amarna
Suef which is famous for its cotton, and the
traditional village of Beni Mazar. You then
arrive in the beautiful town of El Minya. EASY TRAVEL
EL FAYOUM TO HERMOPOLIS
El Fayoum is reached by train and coach
from Cairo and the major towns and cit-
ies of the Nile Valley. Organised guided
tours can be provided by the tourist office
for exploring the area around El Minya.
El Fayoum Oasis
EL MINYA
El Minya is in North Upper Egypt and the capi-
tal of Minya Governorate . It is a rural area on
the west bank of the Nile that has prospered
over the years since the early 20th century
through its cotton industry. Merchants built Ital-
ian styled houses that can still been seen to-
day. With the town’s pretty tree-lined corniche
and squares, and its monuments from Phara-
onic, Greco Roman, Byzantine, Coptic and
Islamic eras, El Minya is an attractive and lively
town with a great cultural heritage. Wadi Hitan
HERMOPOLIS
It is best known for Beni Hassan, a collection of
paintings that date from the Pharaonic Egypt’s
Nearby are temples built by the female
Middle Kingdom. They display astonishing
pharaoh Hatshepsut and Thutmosis III,
engravings that are considered important for
along with Pharaonic tombs at Deir El Bar-
they show a change of style from the Old to the
sha and remains of a city and tombs from
Middle Kingdom. Amenemhat’s tomb, which
the period at Tell Al-Amarna. It is said to be
shows hunting scenes, and those of the 12th
the home of the pharaoh Akhenaton and
Dynasty governor Khunum Hotep, and Baket
his wife, the famous Nefertiti. At Mallawi,
and Khety from the 11th Dynasty are the most
just along the Nile riverbank, is the remains
important.
of the Graeco-Roman capital Ashmounein
where the ruins of a acropolis-style basilica
can still be seen. Finally, you will arrive at
DID YOU KNOW? the important site of Hermopolis, or Tuna El
Lake Qarun is a protected area and, Gebel as it is known locally, and although it
along with the nearby springs of Ein offers only a few remains to see today such
Silleen and waterways of Wadi Al as the archaeological sites of the Tomb
Rayan, are famous for water sports, of Petosiris, the catacombs where mum-
fishing and bird watching. mified birds and animals were found and
Isadora, it was one of the most prosperous
cities in ancient Egyptian times.
29

28. Felucca riding the Nile
Asyut to Dandara
With a combination of fabulously ancient temples, some of the holiest places in Egypt,
great expanses of agricultural lands and a wealth of modern amenities, the stretch of
the Nile Valley from Asyut to Dandera has one step in the past and the other very much
in the future.
ASYUT
Characterised by its Coptic Christian population which grew as a result of an apparition
of the Virgin Mary that was said to have appeared in the city, an event acknowledged
in the Coptic Orthodox Church, Asyut is one of the holiest places in Egypt. It is also one
of the largest, in fact the largest in Upper Egypt. With a population of around 400,000,
many of its residents are students studying at one of the country’s foremost universities,
the University of Asyut.
Asyut has a modern feel and yet can trace its history back centuries. The first communities
are said to have settled during the Pharaonic period and named it Syut. Later it became
known as Lycopolis, prompting a distinct local dialect in Graeco-Roman times to be
called Lycopolitan. For a spell it was a capital city, although lost out to Thebes which
took the crown during the New Kingdom period. Today, though, Asyut does have many
reminders of its ancient past.
One of its most valuable treasures is the major archaeological site of the Tombs of
Assiut, located to the west of the city. The tombs are carved into the limestone rock of
the mountain, and are said to include those of pharaohs from the 9th, 10th and 12th
dynasties such as Kheti I and II. Other ancient sites around the city include the Meir
Rocky Tombs that contain the Princes of Qusseia, the Deir El Gabrawy in Abnub where
tombs can be found in the monastery, and the Deir el-Bersha necropolis which was an
important cemetery in the Middle Kingdom and where leading nobles and governors
were entombed.
Nearby, is the Deir Al Adra, otherwise known as the Virgin’s Monastery, where it is said the
holy family crossed on their way back from the holy land, and in Shatub village, just to
the south of Asyut, is the Al Muharraq Monastery where a church bears the Virgin Mary’s
name. It was here the family is said to have stayed during their journey to Egypt. Its alter
stone is believed to have been the exact same one that blocked the entrance to a
cave where the holy family lived. Every summer, festivals are held at both venues when
pilgrims from the world over gather.
In more recent times, Asyut became known for being at the
end of the camel caravan route from Darfur in the Sudan and,
DON’T as a result, was home to the largest slave market in Egypt.
Today, it has thriving cotton, grain and carpet industries,
MISS and a prosperous feel. One of the relatively modern sights
The astronomical ceiling of the city, if compared to its ancient monuments, is the
inside the Temple of Asyut Barrage. It was built in the late 1800s to regulate the
Hathor at Dendera – its water flow from the Nile into the main canal, the Ibrahimiyya
detailing is exquisite. Canal, which is a key resource for irrigating the agricultural
land upon which the population relies.

29. INFO POINT
To Cairo
Eastern Desert
Asyut and the Red Sea
Th
eN
Tombs
of Asyut
ile
ve
Ri
r
The White
Monastery Sohag
Western Qena
Desert
Abydos Tombs
Dandara
Temple Complex
(Temple of Hathor)
Fauna of the Nile
Valley
Another significant building in Asyut is the of the Kings
Luxor
Lillian Trasher Orphanage, the first orphanage
in Egypt. It was founded by Lillian Trasher, a
Christian missionary who left her homeland
of Florida in the US to travel to Africa and EASY TRAVEL
seek her life’s work. Today it is one of the You can get to Asyut by train and the
world’s largest orphanages and a source of
Upper Egypt Coach company serves
much local pride.
most of the towns in the area. Tours by
ASYUT TO DANDARA
SUHAG road or river run to Dendara from Luxor.
From Asyut, heading south, you pass
through the town of Suhag, where the
Abydos tombs were discovered in the 19th
century and are said to have been those
of kings from the 1st and 2nd dynasties.
You can also see the Temple of Seti I, a
commemorative monument to the great
King Seti I, along with the Temple of Ramses II
where scenes of battle that have lost little of
their original coloured decoration. There are
numerous churches and monasteries to see
too. Perhaps the most notable is the Pope
Shenouda monastery, sometimes known as
the Deir El Abyad or the White Monastery,
which has a beautiful 5th century church.
From here it’s onward to Dandera.
DANDARA
Dandara is the jewel in the crown of this
stretch of the Nile. It sits on the edge of the
desert, and offers visitors the chance to see
one of the best, if not the best, preserved
temples in Egypt. The huge Dandera Temple Sunset on the Nile
complex, which includes the great Temple
of Hathor which is almost intact, was buried
under the sand until the 19th century.
When it was discovered there was much
excitement. The present building dates from
Ptolemaic times, although takes the form
of Graeco-Roman architectural styling. It
stands on the site of buildings dating from
around 2500 BC. Visitors can see a Coptic
church, chapel and a modern centre that
tells the fascinating story of the temples.
DID YOU KNOW?
It is believed that in the Biblical story
of when Joseph, Mary and the baby
Jesus fled from King Herod’s men
who were killing all the baby boys in
Bethlehem they took refuge in a cave
near Asyut.
Shores of the Nile
31

30. Luxor Temple
Luxor and the East
Bank
To say Luxor is one of the world’s greatest cities is nothing
less than an understatement. It is, in fact, one of its most
astonishing, if not singularly the best, outdoor museum
anywhere on the planet and offers visitors the chance of
seeing almost a third of all the ancient antiquities known
to man in just a few kilometres. The temples and structures
that have stood for thousands of years are beautifully pre-
served.
Home to the city of Thebes, the ancient capital of
Egypt during the Pharaonic New Kingdom period,
along with the fabulous Karnak Temples, Luxor Temple
and the necropolis of the Valley of the Kings and the
Valley of the Queens, Luxor can trace its history back
to unimaginable times. It actually has three distinct
areas, the city centre on the East Bank of the Nile,
Karnak which is a town in its own right and lies just to the
north and Thebes, location of the Valley of the Kings.
Luxor, Karnak Temple
The city is said to have
gained importance as
early as around 2000 BC
under the rule of the 11th
dynasty. In ancient times
it was known as Waset, a
name that indicated its
power, and later Thebes
under the Greeks. Homer
is said to have described
Luxor as the ‘City of the
Hundred Gates’. It was, for
a great many years, one of
the most important cities in
the world, and certainly at
the centre of political, eco-
nomic, religious and military
life of Ancient Egypt.
Luxor Temple and the Nile corniche The Luxor of today is a com-
pact city, running length-
ways along the banks of
DON’T the Nile and bordered by
MISS the desert. Its population
stands at around 380,000
The Sound and Light show at the Karnak Temples. with a regular stream
A narration in several languages, including English, French, of international visitors
Arabic and Japanese, tells the story of the temples to increasing this figure during
light and music. Also a day cruise from Luxor to Dandera the spring and autumn
or Abydos with sight-seeing and lunch. months when the tempera-
ture is at a pleasing level

31. for sightseeing. Temperatures of 31-40°C (107.6°F) in June to August are not uncommon.
Luxor’s size makes it easy to navigate. It’s a short hop of 20 minutes or so from the Luxor
International Airport into the city centre, which largely only comprises three main roads. The
corniche, a pretty tree-lined boulevard that runs along the banks of the Nile in an espla-
nade fashion, is central for all the city’s attractions. It is home to the Winter Palace Hotel,
now run by the hotel group Sofitel, that was where Agatha Christie is said to have penned
her classic work ‘Death on the Nile’.
The two other main roads are the street al-Mahatta in which lies the train station, and the
street al-Karnak that runs from the Karnak Temple into town past the Luxor Temple. For visi-
tors the size and layout of Luxor means that all the sites are within a short distance of each
other and easy to find.
Getting across from the East Bank or city centre to the West Bank to visit the Valley of the
Kings and the Valley of the Queens is now straightforward by road with the opening of a
bridge ten years ago. It’s just a few kilometres upstream. Before the bridge opened it was
very much a case of hopping on one of the frequent and inexpensive ferries or motorboats
that ran, and still do run, across the Nile. There’s a landing just opposite the Luxor Temple.
LUXOR AND THE EAST BANK
Ramasseum, Ramses II Temple
It’s a great way to cross the river. Visitors have a wealth of opportunities to sightsee in Luxor.
There are the two big attractions of the Luxor Temple and the Karnak Temples, of course,
plus the fabulous Luxor Museum and the Mummification Museum.
The Luxor Temple is an astonishing sight from the corniche. It is particularly attrac-
tive when subtlety lit in the evening. Dating from the time of Amenhotep II and Ramses
II, it is dedicated to the god Amon Ra and his wife Mut. You enter it from an entrance
facing north, at the point where at one time it would have been connected to the Karnak
Temples via a causeway. The causeway, which is currently being restored and is set to be
a highlight of Luxor, would have been lined with sphinx statues. A later addition was a long
road, a dromos, built by Nectanebo I in the 30th dynasty. Sadly, most of the sphinxes have
disappeared over the years, but a few exceptionally good examples still exist close to the
temple today.
Built during the New Kingdom, the temple is entered past a huge pylon built by Ramses
II, with two of the original six statues representing the king on either side. There is also the
remaining one of two matching 25-metre high granite obelisks. The other is erected in the
DID YOU KNOW?
The Arabs once dubbed Luxor the ‘City of Palaces’ because of the astonishing
number of great buildings that were beautifully preserved.
33

32. Karnak Temple
Place de la Concorde in Paris, and a much loved and photographed landmark.
Inside, there are courtyards, columns and fabulous colonnades, one a hundred me-
tres in length and built by Amenhotep III. Its columns are topped with carvings of the
papyrus plant. Along the way there are inscriptions, scenes from ancient Egypt and even
Roman stuccoes that can be seen partially covering ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics. On the
outer wall of the pylon are inscriptions that tell of the battle between Ramses II and
Hittites. The temple is a glorious celebration of the power of the pharaohs of the New King-
dom and a ‘must see’ sight.
Heading out of the Luxor Temple towards the next
‘must see’ sight, the Karnak Temples, you will reach the
Luxor Museum on the corniche. Be sure to go inside.
Quite modern in appearance, it was founded in 1975
to house antiquities dating from the ancient civilizations
of the area found in more recent times, including
some of the Tutankhamun treasures. While the Egyptian
Museum in Cairo displays ancient artefacts to
perfection, it is quite moving to see such extraordinary
items exhibited in Luxor, the city where they were found.
The Karnak Temples barely need an introduction, they are
so famous. The largest ancient religious site in the
world, the complex takes its name from the village of
Al-Karnak and, in fact, comprises three distinct temples.
The largest, the Precinct of Amun-Re, is ancient and
dedicated to the god Amon. It is the only area open to the
public. There is also the Precinct of Montu, the Precinct of
Mut and a now dismantled building, the Temple of Amen-
hotep IV. The triad of Luxor is Amun, Mut and Khonsu.
Medinet Habu, Ramses III Temple
The site dates from as far back as 2000 BC and although building would have been
low key in the beginning it is said that around 30 pharaohs added buildings, tem-
ples, chapels and architectural wonders to it over a period of about 2,000 years from
the Middle Kingdom right through to Ptolemaic times. The result is a fabulous trea-
sure trove of ancient buildings and structures, columns, courtyards, pylons and
obelisks, even a sacred lake, the scale of which is unparalleled anywhere in the world.
At the entrance you pass over what is believed to have been a canal connected to the
Nile, complete with an ancient dock. Sadly, there is little remaining of the dock today.
The entrance road, dromos, is lined with a row of statues either side and is known as the
Avenue of Rams. The statues represent Amon and are beautifully preserved. Once inside
the building be sure to see the huge statue of Ramses II, one of the iconic images of the
Karnak Temples.