This document provides an overview of a trip to Sicily for foodies. It discusses Sicily's rich soil that allows for abundant fresh produce, pleasant climate, and history steeped in Greek myths. It summarizes experiences visiting Mount Etna, the town of Taormina and its Greek theatre, and sampling local specialties like lemon granita, almonds, and capers. Specific restaurants highlighted include Rifugio Ragabo for lunch and Ristorante da Nino on the beach for its seafood.
Gods, Gangsters and Gnocchi: A Foodie Fresh Escape to Sicily
1.
2. fresh escapes
Gods,
Gangsters
and Gnocchi
For any foodie, a trip to Sicily is a must. Renowned for its fabulous ingredients and idyllic
climate, Nikki Haynes goes and falls head over heels!
M
ENTION Sicily to any
foodie and you’ll
probably get the same
reaction as a child will
have to a bar of chocolate;
the eyes widen, the
mouth waters and the heart rate quickens.
For a long time it’s been regarded as a Mecca
for foodies because of its incredibly fresh
food and lush vegetation: its fertile, mineral-
rich volcanic soil makes it a place where you
can grow pretty much anything. Apart from
its fabulous food, Sicily is also famed for its
pleasant climate, beautiful scenery
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4. fresh escapes
and as a place steeped with history, with Greek
myths and legends of gods and monsters. And so
it makes for a perfect foodie fresh escape . . .
Mixing with the Mafia
Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean
Sea, located at the tip of the “toe” end of Italy’s
“foot”, it’s also very close to Africa and Greece,
and thus has many cultural influences. Although
officially it’s part of Italy, there is a rivalry
between the island and the mainland, so if you
visit Sicily, don’t be foolish enough to call the
locals Italian, they’re Sicilian. It won’t go down
too well, and with the island’s connection with
the Mafia, you don’t really want to risk making
that tourist mistake to just anyone!
There has been talk of building the world’s
largest suspension bridge over the Straight of
Messina for many years (plans date back to the
IMAGES CLASSIC COLLECTION
Romans), connecting mainland Italy with Sicily,
but it’s never gone ahead as many are divided
about it. Italy’s Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi is
currently pushing it forward so watch this space.
I visited Sicily for a few days in April, which is
a wonderful time to go, it was a little chilly at
times but when the sun was out it was glorious. It
was my first trip to the island and to be honest I out, then you must sit outside on the terrace Aeolian islands
hadn’t expected it to be quite so large (the island overlooking the azure blue Mediterranean bay. These nine islands take their name from Aeolus,
has a land area of 25, 708 sq km), so on this short It’ll set you up for the day, which is what you god of the winds, they’re a short cruise away
trip I only saw a glimpse, but it was enough to need as there is plenty to do around the area. from Taormina and worth a visit purely for the
leave me hungry for more. We were staying in the captain’s tales of Greek myths of gods, monsters
“ We had to have wine
small but affluent tourist town of Taormina on and star-crossed lovers over the boat’s loud
the east coast of the island, staying at the Grand speaker. Each island has its own characteristics,
Hotel Mazzaro Sea Palace in Taormina Mare (the with everything we ate . . . it for example Stromboli is one of the most active
”
town itself is on a large hill whereas a lot of the volcanos in the world, it can be counted upon
hotels are located at the bottom of the hill next helps the digestion! to have fiery, volcanic outbursts frequently day-
to the sea), and is situated in a small bay between to-day; some of the other islands are known for
two cliffs. All the rooms face towards the sea so
you get a wonderful view of the Mediterranean Travel Essentials being quiet, or good for hiking and swimming
and others are famed for their thermal mud
and the hotel has its own private beach and pool. Insider information baths or fanghi. Our cruise took us for a tour
On our first night we had dinner at the hotel in around Vulcano and stopped at Lipari. Our tour
their grand, marble-decorated dining room with How to get tHere guide, the fiery Sicilian Christi, seemed to know
lots of plush fabric and patterns, which reminded Air Malta flies up to five times a week everyone in Sicily and everything there was ever
me of Gianni Versace’s ’90s designs. The food from London Gatwick to Catania from to know about the island. He was Francis Ford
here is rich and plentiful, with four large courses £99 return including taxes and charges. Coppola’s guide when he made the Godfather
every night you won’t be going to bed on an Visit www.airmalta.com for details. films so you know you’re in good hands,
empty stomach. We dined on white and green although, some of his stories need to be taken
asparagus cream with fried cuttlefish, courgette wHere to stay with a pinch of salt; at his insistence we had to
flowers with ricotta and prawn tartar, egg pasta Classic Collection Holidays (www. have wine with everything we ate because “it
with vegetables brunoise and prawn butter and classic-collection.co.uk or call 0800 helps with digestion!” I of course shook my head
waffles with ricotta mouse and citrus fruits. 294 9315) offers 7 nights at the Grand in agreement and may even adopt this myself in
Just a stone’s throw its sister hotel Grand Hotel Mazzaro Sea Palace from £1173 per the future.
Atlantis Bay. It has a very different atmosphere person this April (3 nights from £813 per Next, we were taken on a tour around the
to the Sea Palace, the design is more modern person) based on 2 adults sharing a sea- narrow cobbled streets, the castle, tall Venetian-
in comparison and seems much grander. view twin/double room on a bed and style buildings that are within spitting distance
It’s a beautiful looking hotel but with this it breakfast basis. Price includes return Air of one another and all with delicious displays
loses what makes the Sea Palace so special; a Malta flights and private transfers. of brightly coloured flowers growing over the
smaller, friendlier, more personal service and buildings. Make sure you stop for a Sicilian lemon
atmosphere. Breakfast at Mazzaro Sea Palace wHat to eat granite (crushed ice with sweet Sicilian lemon
deserves a mention, the buffet-style affair had Almonds, capers, lemon granite, pasta, juice squeezed over), it’s very refreshing.
everything you could want, and you can eat in pork and fish (especially swordfish). Lipari is an archaeological site and there
the decadent, marble restaurant or, if the sun’s are many interesting ancient places to visit:
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5. Food − Fairtrade Coffee
Travel − Thailand
Christi takes us on a guided walk of Taormina,
the popular upmarket town up the hill from
Taormina Mare. Either take a 10–15 minute walk
up the steps or the five-minute cable car ride:
both will give you some gorgeous views. You’ll
find some wonderful boutiques selling antiques,
Sicilian delis and ice cream vendors, as well as
cafés, restaurants and designer stores such as
Dolce & Gabbana and Armani. Close to the main
shopping area is the Greek theatre and medieval
palace; quite a sight as the Greek amphitheatre
has stunning panoramic views of the bay of
Naxos and Mount Etna. Another ancient site
that is a must-see, and it’s still making history, is
Mount Etna. The active volcano dominates the
scenery of this area and you can’t help but look
up in awe. The ideal mid-week meal!
When we visited in April we departed Taormina
in the sunshine, ascended Etna (in a large moon- Spaghetti with Spicy Tomato,
type buggy) where it turned to a very chilly -10˚C! Bacon & Mushroom Sauce
There was lots of snow and viewing conditions
were not good, but it was an amazing experience. Serves 4
On a good day you’re supposed to be able to see Prep 5 minutes
vast coastal views, alpine vegetation and inland Cook 20–25 minutes
valleys that are spectacularly diverse.
350g / 12oz spaghetti
the Cathedral of St Bartolomeo, the Eoliano Sustenance and a siesta 1tbsp olive oil
Archeological Museum, the Church of St Coming back down Etna we stopped at Rifugio 150g / 5oz smoked streaky bacon, sliced
Giuseppe, the Church of the Anime del Ragabo for lunch, where we were greeted by 250g pack white closed cup mushrooms, sliced
Purgatorio, the Acropoli, the Church of the log fires and some delicious Sicilian food that 400g can chopped tomatoes with garlic
Addolorata and the Church of the Immacolata. incorporated some of the island’s most famous ½tsp dried chilli flakes (according to taste)
After our tour of the island we headed back ingredients: the lemons, capers and almonds A pinch of caster sugar
to the port and passed one of Christi’s friends that the Arabs brought from North Africa and Salt and freshly ground black pepper
selling his home-grown capers. The old man let which are are still used in a lot of dishes today. 3tbsp chopped fresh flat parsley
me taste these tiny delights with some fresh, Fish plays a very big part of the diet of course,, Parmesan, to serve
crusty bread and they were juicy, salty and especially swordfish, as well as lots of pork, both
moreish: with a glass of the island’s Malvasia
wine I would have been very content for the rest
of the day. However Christi had other ideas and
fresh and cured.
A few hours later with a siesta in between,
we were ready to eat again! We went to a beach
1 Cook the spaghetti in a large pan of boiling
salted water for 10 mins or according to
packet instructions.
wanted us to have lunch at Vincenzino, a family-
run restaurant that is popular with tourists. The
food there is simple, abundant and delicious, and
restaurant in Letojanni, which was a short
drive from the hotel but certainly worth it.
Ristorante da Nino is an inconspicuous family-
2 Meanwhile, heat a non-stick frying pan and
add the oil and bacon, then sauté for 3-4
mins. Add the mushrooms and cook for a further
made using family recipes. run restaurant, pictures of friends and family 5 mins or until the bacon and mushrooms are
Closer to the port you’ll be hard pressed down the years adorn its walls. In fact some softened and golden.
to miss the sulphuric mud baths; one of the
reasons people flock to this island. They’re
thought to have healing properties such as
of the restaurant’s residents reminded me of
the island’s most infamous family – but that’s
just speculation, I don’t want to put people off
3 Add the chopped tomatoes and chilli and
simmer over a high heat for 3-4 mins or until
the sauce has reduced. Remove from the heat,
curing skin disorders and arthritis. But because it really is a place to visit, I couldn’t stir in the sugar and season to taste.
beware: no matter how much you shower
afterwards you will be stinking of rotten eggs for
at least three days! Although it was tempting to
recommend it highly enough, and I really don’t
want to wake up tomorrow with a horse’s head
in my bed! Being on the beach they specialise in
4 Drain the spaghetti in a colander and return
to the pan, add the spaghetti to the sauce
and toss well to mix. Finally add the parsley and
try this experience I had to think of my fellow fish and if that’s something that you love then Parmesan and serve.
tube passengers in London so passed on the you should definitely try their fried baby squid
offer of a sulphurous dip! or one of their impressive variety of ceviche. We This version of the classic Italian
enjoyed ourselves so much that at one point, recipe, spaghetti Amatriciana is a
Back on the mainland after a few glasses of wine (to help digest our perfect example of fast food as it should
Throughout the island’s history just about every food, naturally) our group dared one of our be - whilst the pasta cooks the sauce is
superpower has set its sights on conquering guides to sing a rendition of Nessun Dorma. Of prepared all ready to eat in less than 15
Sicily, and throughout the island there are course he obliged and the whole restaurant then mins! What’s more any leftovers can be
reminders of relics and architecture that they’ve joined in in full throaty voice! I’m not sure if this served cold the next day as a pasta salad in
left behind: classical temples, mosaic-filled happens on a regular basis, but if you’re there, a packed lunch box.
churches and ornate piazzas. On our last day give it a go.
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