1. Green Designs R.B.CHAVAN Department of Textile Technology Indian Institute of Technology Hauz-khas, New Delhi 110016 E-mail rbchavan@hotmail.com

2. Green Designs Designing with eco-friendly textiles

3. Environment awareness in India Environment control agencies Ministry of Environment and Forests Assisted by Central pollution control board State pollution control boards

4. Stringent environment rules and regulations on Paper Very Poorly applied in practice Result Environment pollution

5. Environment Effect of day to day activities and all manufacturing activities on Water Air Noise level Human being Aquatic life Plants Earth etc.

6. Background German Ban Ban on export of textiles dyed with dyes containing carcinogenic amines Introduced in 1992 Implemented in india April 1996

7. Extended list of banned chemicals Pesticides Formaldehyde Chlorine bleaching agents Heavy metals like chromium Chlorinated stain removers Pentachlorophenol

13. KING COTTON COTTON BUD COTTON FLOWER

14. Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides Birds, bees, crustaceans, & fish. Mutations. Ethephon Aquatic insects, birds, & fish Cancer, reproductive damage, tumors Dicofol Bees, birds, crustaceans, & fish. Birth defects, cancer. Cyanazine Bees, birds, crustaceans,&mollusks Brain and fetal damage, impotence, sterility. Chlorpynfos Environ. Toxicity Human Toxicity Chemical Name

15. Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides Environ. Toxicity Human Toxicity Chemical Name Bees, birds, crustaceans, fish, & mollusks. Bone marrow, kidney, liver, testicular damage. Prometryn Birds, bees, & fish. Eye damage, skin irritant. Profenofos Birds, bees, crustaceans, & fish. Birth defects, fetal damage, reproductive & immune system. Methyl Parathion Bees & fish. Birth defects, fetal damage, mutations Metam Sodium

16. It takes one pound of chemical fertilizers and pesticides to conventionally grow the three pounds of cotton needed to make a T-shirt and a pair of jeans.

17. beneath cotton's natural fiber lies a long chain of chemically-intensive, "unnatural" processes. To bring this delicate plant to harvest, it is heavily sprayed - 8 to 10 times a season - with pesticides so poisonous they gradually render fields barren. And that's just the beginning. To create finished goods, fabrics are often colored with toxic dyes and finished with formaldehyde . Need for organic cotton

18. Organic food now symbolizes the highest and freshest quality available. Suppliers of organic cotton are not far behind. If we are really concerned about environmental issues today, our ideas of excellent product design must include impact on the earth.

21. Organic cotton certification INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION FOR ORGANIC AGRICULTURE MOVEMENT [IFOAM] has formulated standards and guidelines for organic cotton cultivation and are followed by many labelling agencies to certify organic cotton and other farm produce.

22. Merits of organic cotton cultivation Environmentally Friendly Technology Reduction in Cost of Cultivation Management of Insecticide Resistance

23. Organic cotton in India Five to seven decades ago, most of the cotton cultivated in the country was ‘eco-friendly’ with little or no use of toxic chemicals in its production. Even today, there are many pockets in India, where it is produced without the use of agrochemicals, e.g., areas growing Wagad cotton in Gujarat, Y-1 desi cotton of Khandesh region of Maharashtra, Maljari in Madhya Pradesh, part of areas growing Jayadhar and Suyodhar in Karnataka Nandicum in Andhra Pradesh and parts of cotton areas in north eastern hill region.

26. Present status of VOFA 205 Members 90 Practicing organic farmers 3500 Acres area under organic cotton farming Purchaser: Fare Trade Company Japan

28. Organic cotton production in India 14-15 lakh bales of uncertified organc cotton (Cotton corporation of India) Estimated certified organic cotton 1000 Total world production 8150 15% of total world production 37% Asian countries production

29. ORGANIC COTTON REDUCTION IN AGROCHEMICALS

30. World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons) 900 900 928 398 268 206 India 400 475 500 450 Greece 630 650 600 598 141 38 Egypt 5 5 1 9 2 Brazil 5 Benin 400 500 400 750 500 479 Australia 70 132 126 120 2 Argentina 1997 1996 1995 1994 1993 1992 Country

31. World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons) 200 100 100 33 Tanzania 30 20 2 Turkey 650 1500 1516 924 700 400 Peru' 50 50 50 75 100 Paraguay 20 20 20 16 Nicaragua 50 90 90 Mozambique 50 100 100 Israel 1997 1996 1995 1994 1993 1992 Country

32. World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons) 7967 9028 12864 9498 6201 3408 Total 5 Zimbabway 30 30 35 Zambia 2852 3396 7425 5365 4274 2155 USA 800 300 250 150 16 Uganda 1997 1996 1995 1994 1993 1992 Country

33. Organic T shirt organic sweat shirt orgnic terry robe Organic fashion wear Organic night gown Organic slippers

34. Earth Friendly Fashions Simplify Life, Relax Your Mind, Calm Your Soul, Open Your Heart. Experience Fisher Henney Naturals

35. Organic cotton body wear Organic cotton apparel

36. Organic cotton apparels

39. NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON COTTON THAT GROWS WITH NATURAL COLOURS DURING CULTIVATION BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED COTTONS KNOWN SINCE TIME IMEMORIAL IN INDIA

40. NON POPULARITY OF COLOURED COTTON LOW YIELD SEED AVAILABILITY LOW FINENESS, LOW STAPLE LENGTH LOW STRENGTH POOR SPINNABILITY LOW YARN AND FABRIC QUALITY LIMITED COLOUR RANGE CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTON

41. ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION WAVE IMPETUS TO THE CULTIVATION OF NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON SHADES PISTA GREEN AND ALMOND BROWN MOST COMMON OTHER SHADES CREAM PINK MAUVE COUNTRIES INDIA USA ISRAEL CHINA PERU

42. IMPORTANT ASPECTS EARLIER LOW FIBRE LENGTH, POOR SPINNABILITY YARN SPINNING OF 10 TO 12s COUNT RESEARCH INPUTS IMPROVED FIBRE QUALITY POSSIBLE TO SPIN YARNS OF 30 AND 40s COUNT SUITABLE FOR WEAVING AND KNITTING IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS GREEN VARIETY TURNS BROWN IF NOT HARVESTED ON RIPENING BROWN VARIETY DARKENS WITH AGE AND EXPOSURE TO LIGHT GREEN AND BRWON DARKEN ON LAUNDERING NOT FAST TO BLEACHING

43. COTTON CORPORATION OF INDIA AND CENTRAL COTTON RESEARCH INSTITUTE NAGPUR 1996-97 INVESTMENT Rs. 80 LAKHS CULTIVATION OF COLOURED COTTON AT KHANDWA, MADHYA PRADESH DHARWAD, KARNATAKA PROJECT DID NOT SUCEED DUE TO POOR MARKET RESPONSE DEMAND OF HIGH PRICE BY FARMERS MAJOR PROBLEM CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTON FIELDS NECESSARY TO HAVE SEPARATE AREA FOR COLOUR COTTON CULTIVATION

44. MEANS TO OVERCOME TECHNICAL PROBLEMS LOW STRENGTH AND POOR SPINNABILITY BLENDING 30-50% OF WHITE COTTON WITH COLOURED COTTON CHANGE OF SHADE ON LAUNDERING ON LAUNDERING SHADE BECOMES DEEPER ALKALINE SCOURING STABILIZES THE SHADE CHANGE POOR BLEACHING FASTNESS DO NOT BLEACH

45. Rocklea spinning Mills in collaboration with Australian farmers introduced range of yarns from brown and green varieties of cotton Blending of coloured cotton with white cotton in diffferent proporations produce shade varieties Australia

47. SIX PRINCIPLE COLOUR VARIETIES CREAM Pista green MEDIUM BROWN REDDISH BROWN CHOCOLATE BROWN MAUVE Brown verities possess anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties COFFEE FILTERS MADE FROM CERTIFIED ORGANIC COLOURED COTTON FREE FROM PESTIFCIDES, BLEACHES AND SYNTHETIC COLOURS Natural coloured yarns and fabrics are certified by SKAL, Dutch certifying agency

48. Slivers of coloured cotton

49. Naturally coloured yarn for Kniting and Weaving

50. Coloured cotton fabrics

51. COTTON CLOTHES in naturally occurring colors are produced in Peru

52. Sally Fox introduced to colored cotton while working for a cotton breeder, whose focus was developing pest-resistant strains of cotton. The peoples of Central and South America had spun these strains for centuries, but the fiber qualities were not sufficient for modern machine spinning.

53. Sally Fox in 1982 took on the challenge of improving an ancient agricultural art. Fox successfully bred and marketed varieties of naturally coloured cotton she calls FoxFiber ®. Today, Sally Fox designs fabrics with her cotton and continues research. Fox has received a patent and three Plant Variety Protection Certificates for her naturally colored cottons which, in addition to browns, she now grows in reds and greens. Her invention has been so popular it has sprouted two successful companies -- Vreseis, Ltd. and Natural Cotton Colours, both operating in Arizona.

56. CLASSIFICATION OF NATURAL DYES PLANT (VEGETABLE) INSECTS (ANIMAL) MINERAL ANNATO COCHINEAL COLOURED ROCKS, ORES

58. VEGETABLE DYE SOURCES LEAF SEED ANNATO INDIGO ROOT MADDER

59. FRUIT POMEGRANATE BARK ACACIA WOOD BRAZIL WOOD

60. INDIGO TEXTILE DYE ANNATO FOOD COLOUR TURMERIC FOOD COLOUR HENNA HAIR DYE SAFFRON FOOD COLOUR MERRIGOLD CHICKEN FEED APPLICATIONS OF NATURAL DYES

61. Traditional Method SIMULTANEOUS EXTRACTION AND APPLICATION Emerging Method DYEING WITH PURIFIED DYE POWDERS

62. Salvi Brothers

63. TELIA RUMAL

64. KALAMKARI

67. TIE & DYE

68. TRADITIONAL BLOCK PRINTS

69. CONTEMPORARY BLOCK PRINTS

70. NATURAL DYE DESIGN STUDIOS

71. INSTITUTES AND DESIGN SCHOOLS UNIVERSITIES AND DESIGN INSTITUTES

72. CONTEMPORARY NATURAL COLOUR DYED PRODUCTS

74. NATURAL DYES OTHER PRODUCTS

75. ECO LABELS Eco-labels are product labels that inform consumers about the environmental impact of a product. They encourage producers to switch to environmentally sound production process methods (PPMs) for advantage in the marketplace. Eco-labels allow producers to differentiate their products from products that are less environmentally friendly and thus to reach environmentally conscious consumers.

76. ECO LABEL CRITERIA ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLINESS OF THE ENTIRE LIFE CYCLE OF THE PRODUCT CRADLE TO GRAVE ASSESSMENT 1. Production of raw materials 2. Production of the end product 3. Packaging and transport of raw materials and the finished product 4. Use of the product by companies and consumers 5. Disposal of the product e.g. assessment of a T-shirt starts in the cotton field and ends in the incineration plant .

78. POTENTIALLY HARMFUL SUBSTANCES pH Formaldehyde Heavy metals (As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni, Hg) Pesticides Chlorinated phenols Dyestuffs (specific classifications) Chlorinated organic carriers Boicidal finishes Flame retardent finishes Colour fastness Emission of volatiles Odours

79. Republic of China–Taiwan Green Mark Thailand (Thai Green Label Korea Environmental Labelling Japan Eco Mark India Eco Mark Australia/New Zealand Environmental Choice European Union Eco-label “Flower” scheme

80. Nordic Countries (Nordic Swan ) Austrian Eco-label Croatia (Environmental Label ) Netherland Ecolabel Foundation