1. DEVELOPMENTS IN
ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY
FINISHES FOR COTTON
FABRICS AND GARMENTS
R.B.Chavan
Dept. of Textile Technology,
Indian Institute of Technology,
Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 1

2. PRESENT CONCEPT
POLLUTERS MUST PAY
CRADLE TO GRAVE
WOMB TO TOMB
NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY
RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,
PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL
MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS
ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO
LABLES
 GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS
EVEN AT HIGH COST
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 2

3. COTTON DOMINATES
READILY AVAILABLE
AFFORDABLE PRICE
HYDROPHILIC
COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL
CLIMATE
BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 3

4. CONVENTIONAL COTTON
 CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO
FRIENDLY
 USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND
VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS
DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.
 PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS
RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS
 WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY
PROCESSES
 WATER POLLUTION
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 4

5. ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING
FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER
CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)
RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED
DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF
CULTIVATION
COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS
ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS
ORGANIC COTTON
GREEN COTTON
NATURAL COTTON
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 5

6. NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME
PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR
COLOURS
NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE
LOW STAPLE LENGTH
INFERIOR STRENGTH
POOR SPINABILITY
REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON
CULTIVATION
NOT TO BE DYED
ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING
DYEING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 6

7. ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES
FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO
MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE
PRODUCT
VALUE ADDITION
 IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 7

8. IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON
EASY CARE/DURABLE
PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING
SOFTENING
ENZYME/BIO FINISHING
WATER PROOF BREATHABLE
FINISHING
SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE
FINISHES
ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES
UV PROTECTION
EMERGING FINISHES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 8

9. EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE
FINISHING
CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE
AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS
AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE
TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT
TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING
IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY
LOSS IN STRENGTH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 9

10. PROCESS ROUTE
FABRIC FINISHING
PRE CURE
POST CURE
GARMENT FINSIHING
 DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 10

11. PRE CURE PROCESS
PAD  DRY  CURE
· MOST POPULAR PROCESS FOR
FABRIC FINISHING
· UNIFORM DISTRUBUTION OF
CHEMICALS
· BETTER PROCESS CONTROL
· CARRIED OUT AT MILL
LEVEL
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 11

12. POST CURE PROCESS
PAD  DRY AT MILL LEVEL
• SENSITIZED FABRIC
• TRANSPORT TO GARMENT UNIT
• GARMENT MAKING
• PRESSING TO SET CREASES AT
DESIRED PLACES
• CURE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 12

13. STEPS
PAD (60-70% PICK UP)
DRY AT 70oC, 8-10% MOISTURE
CONTENT
SANFORIZE (NO MOISTURE SPRAY)
GARMENT MAKING
GARMENT PRESSING
GARMENT CURING 150-160 oC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 13

14. PRECAUTIONS
PRE FINISHING STAGE
 GOOD ABSORBANCY (<3sec)
 FREE FROM SIZE
 HIGH TENSILE AND TEAR STRENGTH
 SUFFICIENT TO REMAIN ACCEPTABLE EVEN AFTER
50% LOSS ON FINISHING
 USE MERCERIZED COTTON
 ADEQUATE DYE FASTNESS
 FREE FROM SOFTENER BEFORE FINISHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 14

15. PRECAUTIONS
TO AVOID PRE MATURED CROSS
LINKING
• CAREFUL STORAGE OF SENSITIZED
• FABRIC, SHIPMENT BY AIR
• MANY STORE UNDER
REFRIGERATION
• SHOULD NOT BE STORED MORE
THAN 3 MONTHS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 15

16. FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM
MERITS
PERMANENT CREASE SETING AT
DESIRED PLACES
NO RISK OF PRE MATURED CROSS
LINKING
GARMENT SEAM PUCKERING
MINIMIZED
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 16

17. POINTS TO BE CONSIDERED
CAREFUL SELECTION OF
SEWING THREAD, BUTTON, ZIPS
STABLE TO BATH CHEMICALS, HEAT
FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM
OFFERS ONLY ONE CHANCE
ANY THING WRONG CAN NOT BE
RECTIFIED
RESIN STRIPPING AND
REPROCESSING CAUSES MORE
DAMAGE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 17

18. GARMENT FINISHING METHODS
DIP PROCESS
TUMBLE PROCESS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 18

19. DIP PROCESS
DIP GARMENT IN FINISH BATH (INSIDE OUT,
M:L :: 1:5)
WASHING MACHINE MAY BE USED
ROTATE FOR 20 min.
HYDROEXTRACT (70-80% PICK UP)
TUMBLE DRY AT 70oc, MOISTURE CONTENT
10-12%
TURN THE GARMENT RIGHT SIDE OUT
IRO/STEAM PRESS TO SET CREASES AT
DESIRED PLACES
CURE AT 150 oc – 160 oc for 8-10 min
EXTRACTED SOLUTION MAY BE REUSED
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 19

20. TUMBLE METHOD
PLACE GARMENTS (INSIDE OUT) IN WASHING
MACHINE DRUM
SATURATE WITH FINISH BATH BY SPRAY
APPLICATION
ROTATE DRUM FOR 20 min
TAKE CARE TO AVOID EXCESSIVE DRIPPING
OF CHEMICALS FROM GARMENT
IF DRY SPOT, RESATURATE, TUMBLE FOR
ADDITIONAL TIME
HYDROEXTRACT
OTHER STEPS SAME AS EARLIER PROCESS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 20

21. IMPORTANT FEATURES
M:L:: 1:0.85 –1:1
TUMBLE ROTATION SPEED 28-30
rpm
TUMBLE DRYING TEMP. SHOULD
NOT EXCEED 70 oc
MOISTURE RETENTION AFTER
DRYING 10-12%,
IF LESS RESATURATE AND DRY
LOAD SIZE 50 Kg.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 21

22. CHEMICALS USED
CROSS LINKING AGENT
LOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEU
EXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER
CATALYST
MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID
WETTING AGENT
HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION
IMPART HAND
IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE
AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE
IMPART SOFT HAND
IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY
SILICONE ELASTOMER
IMPART SPRINGINESS
IMPROVE STRENGTH
ACRYLATES
IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 22

23. TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPE
CROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l
MgCl2 10-25 g/l
CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l
SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l
WETTING AGENT 1 g/l
pH 4-4.5
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 23

24. FINISHING STAGE
 AFTER DRYING RESIDUAL MOISTURE CONTENT SHOULD
NOT BE < 10%.
 LOW MOISTURE GIVES HIGH DRY CRA, LOSS IN STRENGTH
 GOOD WET CRA WHEN MOISTURE AFTER DRYING IS HIGH
 SULPHUR DYED GARMENT SHOULD BE AVOIDED,
LIBERATE ACID, PREMATURE RESIN CURING, LOSS IN
STRENGTH
 1-2% UREA ADDITION IN FINISH BATH CONTROLS
FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE
 UREA REDUCES EFFICIENCY OF FINISH BATH, TAKE 10%
EXTRA RESIN
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 24

25. GARMENT STAGE
 STONE WASH AND OTHER FINISHES ARE
GIVEN BEFORE WRINKLE FREE FINISH
 USE LOWER (I50oc) FOR WHITE GARMENTS
TO AVOID YELLOWING
 POCKETS,BELT,LOOPS,LABLES,
SEWINGTHREAD,BUTTONS,ZIPPERS
SHOULD BE RESISTANT TO FINISH BATH
CHEMICALS AND CURING HEAT
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 25

26. QUALITY CONTROL
PHYSICAL TESTS
 DRY AND WET CRA
 SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING
 %RESIN ADD-ON
 TENSILE STRENGTH
 ABRASION RESISTANCE
 DIMENSIONAL STBILITY
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 26

27. CHEMICAL TEST
Cuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE
HYDROXIDE)
PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED
GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)
· PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE
· PUT 1-2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION
PUT COVER SLIDE
· OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE
· RATING 3-4 IS ACEPTABLE
· RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS
RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 27

28. SWELLING RATING MEANING
 NONE 5 FULLYCROSS
LINKED
 SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS
LINKED
 MODERATE 3 MODERATE
CROSS LINKED
 MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS
LINKED
 HEAVY
 HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED
 RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED
 DISSOLVES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 28

29. ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS
 MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS
 LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED
(DMeDHEU)
 EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE
 RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING
 DRYING AND CURING,
 GARMENT STORAGE AND USE
 WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF
 IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH
 ENVIRONMENT
 KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND DERMATITIS
EFFECTS
 ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 29

30. CONTROL OF FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE FROM
DMDHEU
 WASH AFTER FINISH
 ADDITION OF FORMALDEHYDE
ACCEPTOR/SCAVENGER LIKE UREA
 MODIFICATION OF DMDHEU TO
PRODUCE ZERO FORMALDEHYDE
ETHERIFIED PRODUCT
 ETHERIFIED DMDHEU IS MORE EXPENSIVE
AND LESS EFFECTIVE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 30

31. POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs)
 WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE OF
BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF COTTON
 CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE
 GOOD CRA
 GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION
 DURABLE TO WASHING
 EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED
COMMERCIALIZATION
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 31

32. CITRIC ACID
 LOW PRICED TRICABOXYLIC ACID
 LESS EFFECTIVE, LESS DURABLE
COMPARED TO BTCA
 YELLOWING ON CURING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 32

33. MECHANISM OF PCA CROSS LINKING
 DMDHEU FORMS ETHER BONDS WITH COTTON
 PCA FORMS ESTER BONDS
 ESTERIFICATION IN TWO STEPS
STEP 1
DEHYDRATION OF TWO ADJACENT COOH GROUPS
FORMATION OF ANHYDRIDE UNDER CURING CONDITIONS
STEP 2
ESTERIFICATION WITH CELLULOSE
REACTION ACCELERATED IN PRESENCE OF ALKALI
METAL SALTS OF PHOSPHORUS
SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE MONO HYDRIDE (NaH2PO 2.H2O)
MOST SATISFACORY
CATALYST ACCELERATE THE RATE OF ANHYDRIDE
FORMATION AND CROSS LINKING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 33

34. OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS
PCA OTHER THAN BTCA SUITABLE
 GIVE CRA IN THE RANGE OF 285
 DP RATING 4.3 - 4.7
 VARIATION IN DURABILITY TO ALKALINE
WASHING
ORDER OF DURABILITY -
BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 34

35. DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH
 PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY
 MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE
 EXPENSIVE
 REDUCING AGENT
 AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
 CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER
 INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE
RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR
COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE
 SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
 SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 35

36. COST OF BTCA
 HIGH COST OF BTCA
 WAYS TO REDUCE COST
 SOPHISTICATED MANUFACTURE
PROCESS
 USE BTCA PASTE FORM WITHOUT
PURIFICATION
 FINISHING COST MAY BE REDUCED BY
MIXING OTHER PCAs
 TEA MAY BE USED TO REDUCE
FINISHING COST AND IMPROVE
FABRIC STRENGTH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 36

37. YELLOWING EFFECT OF CA
 UNDER CURING CONDITIONS
PRODUCTS FORMED ARE
 TRANS ACONITIC ACID, ITACONIC
ACID, CITRACONIC ACID
 YELLOW IN COLOUR
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 37

38. MINIMIZATION OF YELLOWING
 INCORPORATE TEA, N,N BIS HYDROXYETHYL
GLYCINE, BORIC ACID OR PEG
 TEA IS MOST EFFECTIVE TO SUPPRESS
YELLOWING
 OH IN TEA REACT WITH OH IN CA
 PREVENT CA TO DECOMPOSE TO
UNSATURATED ACIDS UNDER CURING
 FORMATION OF ACIDS RESPONSIBLE FOR
YELLOWING PREVENTED
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 38

39. POOR WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH
 PRESENCE OF OH IN CA REDUCES THE
STABILITY OF ESTER BOND WITH CELLULOSE
DURING ALKALINE WASH
WAY OUT
 MODIFY OH IN CA
 INCORPORATE POLY MALEIC ACID (PMA) IN
FINISH BATH
 -COOH OF PMA REACTS WITH OH OF CA
 BLOCKS OH GROUP IN CA
 ENHANCE WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 39

40. SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH
 HIGH COST
 NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST
 YELLOWING
 THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION
 SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED
 IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL
DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS
RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE
 COMBINATION OF HOMOPOLYMER OF PMA AND TER
POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL
ALCOHOL
 FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 40

41. SOFTENERS
SILICONE SOFTENERS
CLASSIFICATION
 NON REACTIVE
 REACTIVE
 ORGANO FUNCTIONAL
NON REACTIVE
 BASED ON POLY DIMETHYL SILOXANES (PDMS)
 SOFTENING EFFECT NOT DURABLE DUE TO
ABSENCE OF REACTIVE GROUPS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 41

42. SILICONE SOFTENERS
REACTIVE SILICONES
 PDMS POLYMER MODIFIED WITH SILANE H OR
SILANOL FUNCTIONAL GROUP
 BETTER DURABILITY
ORGANO FUNCTIONAL SILLICONES
 ORGANO FUNCTIONAL REACTIVE GROUPS
INTRODUCED IN PDMS (AMINE, EPOXIDE, CARBOXY
etc)
 IMPROVE ORIENTATION AND SUBSTANTIVITY ON
FIBRE
 VERY SOFT FINISH (SUPER SOFT)
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 42

43. ECO FRIENDLINESS
 PDMS PRESENT IN EFFLUENT IN THE FORM OF TINY
DISPERSED DROPLETS
 ATTACH TO SUSPENDED SOLIDS
 BEING WATER INSOLUBLE AND NON VOLATILE BECOME
MINOR PART OF SLUDGE
IF SLUDGE IS
 INCINERATED, SILICONE GETS CONVERTED TO SILICA,
WATER AND CO2
 AS LAND FILL, INTRODUCE PDMS IN SOIL
 NATURALLY GETS DEGRADED
 THOUGH PDMS ARE HIGHLY RESISTANT TO BIO
DEGRADATION
 SOIL CONTACT BREAK DOWN TO LOW MOLECULAR
WEIGHT PRODUCTS
 DECOPOSITION PRODUCTS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO
BIOLOGICAL DECOMPOSITION EVENTUALLY TO
NATURAL SILICA.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 43

44. EFFECTS
 PDMS IS ECOLOGYCALLY INERT
 NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC
BACTERIA
 DOES NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS
DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT
 NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED GERMINATION OR
PLANT SURVIVAL
 DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE
 NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND
ANIMAL LIFE
 NO SIGNIFICANT BOD
 NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 44

45. WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH
 IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET
 ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR
 POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE
 LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER
 WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS
 SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000
 SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR
 SPORTS WEAR
 SKI WEAR
 TRACK SUITS
 RAIN WEAR
 MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 45

46. CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE
FABRICS
 HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS
 LAMINATED FABRICS
 COATED FABRICS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 46

47. HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS
 OBTAINED BY DENSLY WEAVING FINE
SMOOTH MICRO FIBRE YARNS
 WIND PROOF
 EXCELLENT WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY
 NOT WATER RESISTANT EVEN AFTER
FINISHING
 USED FOR HIGH FASHION SKI CLOTHING
WHERE WIND PROOFING AND WATER
VAPOUR PERMEABILITY ARE IMPORTANT
 USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND
CHEATER
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 47

48. LAMINATED FABRICS
 ROTORY SCREEN OR SPRAY COATING OF FABRIC
WITH BREATHABLE ADHESIVE
 LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE
BARRIER FILM LIKE PTFE
 BREATHABLE FILMS ARE MADE THROUGH
 BIAXIAL STRETCHING
 MECHANICAL FIBRILATION
 CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE
INCH WITH A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON
 SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX
TWO AND THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF
POLYESTER FABRIC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 48

49. COATED FABRICS
IMPORTANT TECHNIQUES
 SOLVENT EXCHANGE
 PHASE SEPARATION
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 49

50. SOLVENT EXCHANGE
 DISSOLVE POLYMER IN WATER MISCIBLE
SOLVENT
 THIN COATING ON TO FABRIC
 DEVELOPMENT OF MICRO POROUS STRUCTURE
BY PASSAGE THROUGH AQUEOUS POLYMER
COAGULATION BATH
EXAMPLE
 POLYMER: POLYURETHANE
 SOLVENT: DMF
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 50

51. PHASE SEPARATION
DISSOLUTION OF COATING POLYMER IN A MIXTURE OF
SOLVENT AND HIGH BOILING POINT NON SOLVENT MIXTURE
 COAT THE POLYMER, DRY
 EVAPORATION OF SOLVENT DURING DRYING
 NON SOLVENT STILL PRESENT
 PRECIPITATION OF POLYMER AS MICRO POROUS
LAYER
UCE COAT 2000 (UCB SPECIALITY CHEMICALS)
 POLY URETHANE COATING
 SOLVENT: LOW BOILING METHYL ETHYLE KETONE
 NON SOLVENT: HIGH BOILING PEG
 HIGHLY MICRO POROUS COATING ON DRYING
 REMOVAL OF PEG ON SUBSEQUENT WASHING.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 51

52. BIO FINISHING
 APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR
FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND
GARMENTS
 CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S
 PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION
 WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE WASH)
ON INDIGO DYED DENIM
 PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 52

53. MECHANISM
CELLULASE CONSISTS OF THREE
ENZYMES WORKING TOGETHER
SYNERGISTICALLY
1. ENDOGLUCONASES OR ENDO CELLULASE
: HYDROLYSE CELLULOSE RANDOMNLY
2. CELLOBIOHYDROLASE OR EXO
CELLULASE: ATTACK CHAIN ENDS AND
PRODUCE CELLOBUOSE
3. B-(1,4)-GLUCOSIDASE: HYDROLYZE
CELLOBIOSE AND SMALL CHAIN
OLIGOMERS TO GLUCOSE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 53

54. ENZYME TYPES
1. ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)
2. NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)
3. ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)
TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 54

55. BIO POLISHING
• TREATMENT WITH CELLULASE ENZYM
• PARTIAL SURFACE HYDROLYSIS OF CELLULOSE
• WEIGHT LOSS 3-5%
• STRENGTH LOSS 2-7%
• MERCERIZATION ENHANCES THE RATE OF ENZYMATIC
HYDROLYSIS
• MOST POPULAR FOR BIOSTONING OF INDIGO DYED
GARMENTS
• ELIMINATES OR DEVREASES QUANTITY OF PUMICE
STONES THAT CAUSE DAMAGE TO MACHINE
• AVOIDS OCCURRENCE OF PUMICE DUST IN
ENVIRONMENT AND IN GARMENT CREATING HARSH
HANDLE
• NEUTRAL CELLULSES ARE PREFERRED FOR
BIOSTONING.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 55

56. ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH
CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE
CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS
 PATHOGENIC BACTERIA
 ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA
 FUNGI
 GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON THE
DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION
 RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS B
HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH
HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION
 NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC
OR GARMENT
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 56

57. SURGICAL APPARELS
 A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE
BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD
THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD
 ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE
GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES
 ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL
APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL
 FOR THE PROTECTION OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND
NURSE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 57

58. UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY
CLOTHING
 ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE
USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED
DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION
 SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC
FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE
PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED
THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 58

59. REQUIREMENTS OF ANTI
BACTERIAL FINISH
 DURABILITY TO MULTIPLE LAUNDERING AND DRY
CLEANING
 NO TOXIC EFFECT ON WEARER
 ACCEPTABLE MOISTURE TRANSFER PROPERTIES
(BREATHABILITY)
 COMPATIBILITY WITH AUXILIARIES AND OTHER
FINISHING CHEMICALS
 READY AVAILABILITY AT REASONABLE PRICE
 SHOULD NOT AFFECT FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF
DYES
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60. PROTECTION MECHANISM
CONTROLLED RELEASE
 THE ANTI BACTERIAL AGENT IS RELEASED FROM
FINISHED FABRIC AT A RATE SUFFICIENT TO KILL
OR INHIBIT THE GROWTH OF BACTERIA
REGENERATION MODEL
SUBJECTING THE CONTAMINATED FABRIC TO
AGENCY THAT WOULD DESTROY THE BACTERIA.
e.g.
 ADDITION OF BLEACHING AGENT DURING
LAUNDERING
 EXPOSURE TO UV LIGHT
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61. PROTECTION MECHANISM
BARRIER OR BLOCKING
 INSERTION OF PHYSICAL BARRIER FILM OR
COATING WHICH IS IMPERVIOUS TO
TRANSMISSION OF MICRO ORGANISMS
THROUGH FABRIC
 FILM OR COATING THAT HAVE DIRECT
SURFACE CONTACT ACTIVITY AGAINST
BACTERIAL GROWTH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 61

62. FINISHING TECHNIQUES
PAD-DRY-CURE
 APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG
WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS
 VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS
 CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID
 POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE) PHMB
 METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 62

63. FINISHING TECHNIQUES
GRAFTING
 GRAFTING OF POLY-(2-METHYL-5-VINYL PYRIDINE)
ONTO CELLULOSE
 IMMERSION IN AQUEOUS KI SOLUTION
 MATERIAL SLOWLY RELEASES IODINE TO IMPART
ANTI BACTERIAL AND ANTI FUNGAL ACTIVITY
 USED AS SURGICAL DRESSING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 63

64. FINISHING TECHNIQUES
BARRIER COATING
 COATING OF DOW CORNING 5700 (3-TRI
METHOXY SILYL PROPYL DIMETHYL
OCTADECYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE)
ORGANO SILICONE POLYMER
 THE FINISH IS EFFECTIVE IN INHIBITING THE
GROWTH OF ODOUR CAUSING BACTERIA
 STABLE TO 40 WASHES
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65. SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES
 IMPORTANT FOR LEISURE WEAR AND
SPORTS WEAR WHERE SOILING IS MORE
 IMPORTANT FOR EASY CARE FINISHED
GARMENTS
 MAJORITY OF SOIL RELEASE FINISHES
ARE BASED ON
 MAKING FIBRE SURFACE HYDROPHILIC
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66. SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE
FINISHES
THREE MAJOR GROUP OF FINISHES CONTAINING
 -COOH GROUPS
 OXYETHYLENE O/OR HYDROXYL GROUPS
FINISHES CONTAINING –COOH, OXYETHYLENE, -OH GROUPS
MAY BE INCORPORATED IN THE EASY CARE FINISH BATH
IMPROVE SOIL AND OIL STAIN RELEASE DRAMATICALLY
 FLURO CHEMICALS
PROVIDE GOOD SOIL, STAIN RELEASE AND WATER
REPELLENCY
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 66

67. EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES
TRADITIONAL FINISH APPLICATION
 PADDING
 LOW WET PICK UP TECHNIQUES LIKE
 LICK ROLL
 POROUS BOWL
 VACUUM EXTRACTION
 FOAM APPLICTION
ALTERNATE METHODS
 LAMINATION
 COATING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 67

68. EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES
NEXTEC PROCESS
· PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA
· NOVEL PROCESS
· INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED
OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER
· CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER
RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT AFFECTING THE
FABRIC HANDLE
· ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART
· WRINKLE RESISTANCE,
· SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE,
· UV PROTECTION
· FLAME RESISTANCE
· MICROBIAL BARRIER
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 68

69. NEXTEC PROCESS
THIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION
PROCESS ACHIEVED USING
 SILICONE BASED POLYMERS
 POLYURETHANE
 POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS
THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY
OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING MULTI
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO COTTON FABRICS
AND GARMENTS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 69

70. PLASMA TREATMENT
TREATMENT WITH IONIZED GASES PRODUCED BY
ELECTRICAL DISCHARGE
· HIGHLY SURFACE SPECIFIC
· DOES NOT AFFECT BULK PROPERTIED
THE SURFACE PROPERTIES ENHANCED INCLUDE
· WETTABILITY
· ADHESION
· CROSS LINKING
· BIO COMPATIBILITY
· CHEMICAL AFFINITY OR INERTNESS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 70

71. MERITS
· LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION
· DRY TREATMENT
· ENVIRONMENT FRIEDNDLY
· OFFER SCOPE FOR IMPROVEMENT IN
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES FOR COTTON
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72. USE OF BIO TECHNOLOGY
BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC
MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE MAY
USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES WITH
IPROVED PROPERTIES TO PRODUCE
INNOVATIVE EFFECTS THROUGH
FINSHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 72

73. UV PROTECTION
· INCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON
EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV
RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF
OZONE LAYER
· UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED
BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR
GARMENTS WITH SELECTED UV
ABSORBERS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 73

74. CONCLUSIONS
· DESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO
COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES
· IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON
· GIVE VALUE ADDITION
· MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING
EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES
· IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW
CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCE FOR IMPARTING
DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC
AND GARMENTS.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 74