MSL China's latest whitepaper which identifies three types of female luxury consumers in China, and opportunities to engage with them.

1. MSL China Executive Whitepaper
For the Love of Luxury
Communicating with young, Chinese,
urban, female luxury consumers
By Charlotta Lagerdahl, Caroline Dahl and Venus Chan

2. About the Research
The findings in this whitepaper are based on 22 in-depth interviews, five of which were
done during shopping trips, with female luxury consumers aged 20–32 in big cities in
China. Another ten interviews were held with experts on the Chinese luxury landscape,
including managers and executives of luxury brands, executives of online lifestyle
communities, and high-end boutique owners. We also conducted detailed desktop
research and tapped into our own experiences from previous luxury and lifestyle
marketing and communications campaigns in China. The aim of the research was to
enhance MSL China's knowledge and insight into young, female luxury consumers in
China. It was not commissioned by any third party commercial venture. We have
removed all brand references made by the respondents. Brands are mentioned only to
illustrate points made by the authors.
About MSL China
Following the union with Eastwei MSL, MSL China is now a top 5 international strategic
communications agency in Mainland China. With 200 colleagues across 4 offices, MSL
China brings together over 20 senior consultants with more than 12 years of strategic
communications experience in this key global market. Part of MSLGROUP Greater
China, the largest PR & social media network in the region today, MSL China provides
knowledge driven, integrated campaigns and advisory services spanning nearly every
industry and communications discipline. MSL China has received recognition from the
International Business Awards, The Holmes Report’s “PR Agency of the Year,” the China
International PR Association and China’s New Media Festival for its creativity and
effectiveness in strategic communications and industry-leading social media offering.
About MSLGROUP
MSLGROUP is Publicis Groupe’s speciality communications and engagement group,
advisors in all aspects of communication strategy: from consumer PR to employee
communications, from public affairs to reputation management and from crisis com-
munications to event management. With more than 3,000 people, its offices span 22
countries. Adding affiliates and partners into the equation, MSLGROUP’s reach
increases to 4,000 employees in 83 countries. Today the largest PR network in Greater
China and India, the group offers strategic planning and counsel, insight-guided
thinking and big, compelling ideas – followed by thorough execution.
Learn more about us at:
www.mslgroup.com http://blog.mslgroup.com Twitter YouTube

3. Women taking over
Chinese luxury
consumption
In 2010, luxury consumption in mainland China reached 7.9 billion Euro – and this
does not include luxury cars, yachts and private jets. China is now the world's second
largest consumer of luxury goods after Japan, and by 2020 is forecast to surpass
Japan and become the largest luxury market1.
For luxury brands, women are now the key target group. In a traditionally male-
dominated market, women accounted for more than 50 percent of luxury sales2 in
2010. In China, young urban women born after 1980 differ greatly from their older
sisters (please see MSL China Executive Whitepaper From Collective to Individual:
Marketing to the Chinese 70s, 80s and 90s Generations for more on this topic). They
believe in the right to a career and spend their money as they please. Having grown up
in a capitalistic China with modern Western influences, they have been exposed to
luxury products that define their way of life.
These young, female luxury consumers are therefore a large and significant target
group. Despite this growing audience, many marketers know far too little about them.
Most research on luxury consumers has focused on the more general segment of
“China's wealthy”. But this definition is both too general and too narrow by focusing
on an older target group and neglecting a large and growing segment of non-wealthy
luxury consumers in China.
Many women born after the 1980s are currently enjoying the fruits of their parents'
labor while not yet having reached the peak of their own careers. We wanted to focus
on these young, urban, female luxury consumers to learn who they are, what their
lives look like, what they dream about and how best to communicate with them.
1
World Luxury Association | 2McKinsey & Co

4. International fashion blogs, websites and iPhone applica-
The China luxury tions such as Shopstyle.com and Style.com are constantly
communications opportunity consulted, but more importantly, there are several
influential local fashion blogs on Sina weibo (the most
The research has clear implications for brands’ communi- popular Chinese equivalent of Twitter) which are consid-
cations strategy. Below, we outline a few key findings. ered just as credible as famous international print titles.
Our respondents highlight the importance of weibo to get
Brands need to segment the market more information about luxury, brands and lifestyle. We also see
carefully an emerging new media, modeled after the US success
This report discusses an important sub-group of Chinese story Daily Candy, of highly curated lifestyle content being
luxury consumers: young females. But even this group is spread to a larger audience though daily email newslet-
far from homogeneous; the women we talked to have ters, aiming to guide Chinese to a higher quality lifestyle.
vastly different backgrounds, dreams, aspirations and Given the novelty of this concept in China (still a Beta
budgets. Luxury brands need to understand the motiva- version in November 2011), it is too early to speak of its
tions underlying the purchasing behavior of these differ- success. In any case, no matter how influential the big
ent consumer segments to more effectively craft compel- fashion magazines still are, luxury marketers need to
ling messages for the China market. closely watch the constantly evolving Chinese media
landscape, and actively connect with current and emerg-
ing key opinion leaders.
Communications need to start from the
inside out
Every employee must be able to tell the brand story and
There is a huge education opportunity
to “live the brand”. In our work with employee engage- Our respondents lack product and brand knowledge but
ment we constantly meet executives who have spent big crave better information. They buy and love luxury goods,
amounts of money on developing the brand and the but are the first generation of luxury consumers in China
business, but are frustrated with their own employees who and therefore know surprisingly little about both brands
“destroy” the brand through both lack of brand under- and products. They are also largely in the dark about how
standing as well as engagement in their company. Internal to make the most of the luxury experience – for example,
communications is becoming an important communica- in applying makeup or creating a style of their own.
tions discipline for managers in all industries. In the Because of this, they are surprisingly open to being
Chinese luxury business, one area where the need for “educated” by brands – about the brand itself, but also
internal engagement becomes especially obvious is retail. about broader issues related to lifestyle. This provides a
Although the internet is making inroads, and will become huge opportunity for communications professionals to
an important sales channel as consumers become more provide advice and insights about brand and lifestyle to an
knowledgeable, most of our respondents still look to the audience who are willing to listen and accept the brand as
comfort of a physical store to provide the full brand an authority.
experience and safety from counterfeits. But despite the
heavy investment in the Chinese shopping experience by Consumers are more traditional than they
brands, shoppers still say they are unhappy with both the seem at first glance
attitude and knowledge level of store staff. Like in other Despite her independent exterior, our young, female
markets, the store and its staff are key parts of the overall Chinese luxury consumer is still a traditional woman in
brand image. The store is also a unique venue for educat- many ways. She may be trying to break free of the con-
ing consumers. Because of this, our findings show that straints of tradition, but under the surface, she is close to
many Chinese prefer to do their luxury shopping abroad. her family and prioritizes starting her own family life.
No matter how good your external PR or advertising is, Because of this, marketers often need to complement the
branding must start from the inside out. message of the “woman as the ultimate individual, worthy
of self gratification” with more traditional values.
Endorsements should be a key component of
communications strategy Brands must avoid becoming the playthings
Young female luxury consumers rely heavily on “endorse- of the nouveaux riches
ments” to guide their purchases. These endorsements can Female luxury consumers want to avoid the “baofahu” or
come from non-professional, non-traditional, real or “newly rich” label at all costs. Make no mistake that young
fictional “curators” who may directly influence shopping Chinese urban women buy luxuries to demonstrate their
behavior. All brands need to keep a keen eye not only on hard-earned status and to show off. But they don't want to
established fashion editors, celebrities and evangelists, come across as nouveaux riches – despite the fact that
but also on local opinion leaders and the circle of friends most money in China is new. Our respondents point to
who can play an important role as brand endorsers. several luxury brands which have failed to define their
exclusivity, and which are therefore perceived as “second-
Social media are becoming increasingly rate” in China in spite of their success in other global
important markets. For luxury brands looking for long term success
Because of the importance of trusted endorsers, as well in China, it is therefore crucial to provide a context for the
as the media habits of our target group who spend a big brand that goes beyond mere luxury products. Brands
amount of time online, social media such as weibo can must provide an avenue into a lifestyle that includes
play an important and complementary role to traditional travel, health, art and sports. The subtle difference
“glossy magazine” PR. between “new money” and “newer money” makes this
distinction more important than it might seem at first
glance.

5. Who are today's Young,
Chinese, Female Luxury
Consumers?
Photo from Dave Samuel on Flickr

6. Life, Love & Money
Girls Just Wanna Have Fun
Our group of young luxury loving women in China consists
of independent and well-educated career women. Many
have studied and worked abroad. They are breaking free
from tradition and want to live their lives now rather than
saving for tomorrow.
“I'm a person who lives in the moment. I wouldn't say I'm
hedonistic but I still have the philosophy of living in the
moment and enjoying life. I always have control of where I'm
going but I don't wanna worry. Just go with the flow.” - Alicia
Colliding Worlds
During the interviews, many mention having conflicts with
their parents regarding family, work and their lifestyle.
“They are not actually very supportive. I want to be an
English writer, but they think I'm crazy. They are traditional
parents. And conservative.” - Yvette
The biggest source of conflict is marriage. Their parents'
generation married and had children by the age of 25, and
their greatest wish is to see their daughters do the same.
“They want to choose a husband for you. Maybe he's not
who you want. Our generation does not have the same
values as my parents.” - Angela
“Usually parents decide everything. When I was 23, they
started asking me to meet with a guy.” - Clarissa
“They think I should find a man and get married here in
Shanghai.” - Yvette”
Our respondents share a strong, vocal desire to fulfill a
dream. They are in the middle of two worlds; the tradi-
tional Chinese world and a modern world with new values
and influences. These modern values are generally
beyond the understanding of China's older generations.
The two worldviews often collide and give rise to difficult
choices and pressures. But rather than confronting this

7. MSL China Executive Whitepaper
Communicating with young, Chinese, urban, female luxury consumers 7
challenge, our respondents tend to keep their reserva- For communications professionals, it is important to
tions to themselves. understand this fine line of celebrating female success
“Our generation has a totally different life. I think that it is and independence, which must not come at the expense
better to hide my true opinions from my parents.” - Louise of traditional values and aspirations.
As opposed to the western world, young Chinese urban
women often lack role models in terms of lifestyle and life
choices. The world has changed too much for them to be
Shopping behavior
able to ask their mothers for advice. Instead, they look to
friends and media for guidance, giving rise to movies like
Shopping means Escaping, Indulging and
the 2010 hit Go Lala!, a blockbuster Chinese Working Girl Verifying
meets Sex and the City hybrid. A new kind of Chinese Living and working in China's big cities is stressful. For our
heroine has been created: the young, ambitious career girl respondents, consumption is a fundamental part of life
who wants and gets it all; the career, the salary, the clothes and a way of releasing the pressures of everyday life.
and the (successful) man. China may be a gift giving culture, but luxury shopping is
mainly a way of indulging oneself.
And I am a Material Girl “After I close a good deal at work, I go shopping.” - Christine
The concept of freedom is crucial. And freedom for this
group means one thing: to be able to buy what they want, Luxuries are considered a verification of a good life and
without financial constraints. This financial freedom professional success. Being able to buy these exclusive
should preferably be self made from their own careers. labels means you have reached the top of your profession.
They derive a sense of enjoyment from earning and “When I moved back to Shanghai, when I met Chinese girls
spending their own money. at parties or something, I noticed they didn't buy expensive
“The reason why I love money is because I love the feeling of stuff; they didn't have luxury bags. I think I have a relatively
spending what I have earned myself.” - Fiffy better life than them.” - Kelly
“When I get a new one, I feel good about my life. I feel I have
At a first glance, it might look as if this group is very a good quality of life. I can get what I want! I can satisfy
nontraditional and independent, rejecting the old fash- some needs.” - Joanna
ioned values of their parents' generation. But on a closer
look, we find that despite the “modern” aim of being
successful and financially independent, our respondents It's all about the Experience
are actually quite traditional. Financial success is not It is well known that for a majority of these women,
enough. These women want a husband. But not any shopping is not just about a product. As in other markets,
husband; they want a rich one. Even though romantic love it is about the whole experience. But we were surprised to
is seen as the number one factor when selecting a partner, find that our respondents didn't think the local shopping
all of our respondents also explicitly pointed to financial experience measures up to international standards. Many
status as an important consideration. of them have been abroad and consider the service and
attitude of the sales personnel in mainland China to be
“First I have to have a boyfriend I love. As for finances, if poor. Sales personnel are seen as being either too
there is a big discrepancy between us, there will be big
problems for our relationship.” - Christine

8. It's all about the Experience
aggressive or too indifferent, and having poor knowledge
about the products and brands they represent.
“They have no passion for the customer.” - Linda
Therefore, many of these women choose to take their
luxury shopping abroad or to Hong Kong. This is not only
because of lower prices, but also due to the superior
shopping experience.
“Like for sure, if I am going there to shop then it means I'm
spending money, right? So if the service is no good, then I
am not going to go there again because I can go to other
places.” - Cecilia
We also found that our respondents are not too keen on
purchasing luxury goods via the Internet. While they often
shop for other things on Taobao – the popular Chinese
equivalent of eBay – they seldom go online for luxury
goods. Some of the respondents complained about the
lack of customer service and logistics. Others were
concerned about the possibility of inferior quality. Perhaps
most importantly, our respondents wanted to be able to
first touch the products.
“I've tried once or twice at Taobao, but I want to see [the “Are there any? The Chinese brands are too young, they have
product], try it on.” - Christine no heritage.” - Angela
Chinese luxury consumption is still a novelty, compared to More surprisingly, respondents also mentioned several
Europe or the United States. Chinese consumers in modern Asian brands and concepts as highly desirable,
general have less information about the brands and highlighting the fact that successful brands can compen-
products. The physical boutique is not only a part of the sate for a lack of heritage.
experience, it is also a key source of information. Some
brands have understood this. In 2011, Burberry chose Fake – No Thank You!
China as the first country in the world where all stores In an appearance dominated culture, being “caught” with a
would be equipped with touch screens for customers to fake luxury item is an embarrassment of gigantic propor-
enjoy the brand's special multimedia series of features on tions. Our respondents show strong feelings against fake
products, fashion shows and entertainment. products, in particular when the logos are highly visible,
indicating that the bearer will be seen as trying to come
For online luxury retailing, either the target consumers across as something she is not.
need to be knowledgeable about the available goods, or
the retailer needs to lower the perceived risk of buying the “We won't use fake stuff. Chinese people won't use it. It
“wrong” item for the not-so-luxury-savvy consumers. One makes us feel ashamed. Fakes won't make me more
example is the Italian luxury e-commerce specialist Yoox confident.” - Fiffy
Group. In 2011, together with FedEx, the company “If you wear a fake one, you will be afraid that someone will
launched a new “try-it-on” service designed specifically see it. It's not very comfortable.” - Angela
for Chinese consumers. After FedEx deliver Yoox prod-
ucts, the courier waits so that the customer can try it on
and return it directly with the same courier if dissatisfied.
Also, Yoox offers a 24-hour call center, instant-messaging, Luxury and Social Status
fashion advice, a brand shopping bag included with each
shipment and a reusable extra-durable gift box. To Oh, those bumptious baofahu!
encourage counterfeit-wary Chinese consumers, Yoox also In a country with virtually no old money, it might come as a
uses RFID tags to track goods, allowing constant monitor- surprise that all of our respondents, independent of social
ing from warehouse to customer. status, have very strong negative feelings towards “new
money”. Nobody wants to be regarded as, or associated
with, the nouveaux riche or “baofahu”, even though several
of our respondents – or at least their parents – would
Brand Essentials probably themselves be seen as such in an international
setting. Newly rich are identified as “peasants” without
Little Trust in “Made in China” taste, who became rich overnight during the economic
As luxury marketers already know, Chinese prefer Euro- reforms in China, and now want to show off.
pean luxury brands. “Made in China” is associated with
inferior quality, imitation and a lack of brand heritage.

9. MSL China Executive Whitepaper
Communicating with young, Chinese, urban, female luxury consumers 9
“I think that they might not be confident enough. They have I Need Those Luxuries!
to buy the big logos for support.” - Joanna Like most Asian societies China is all about face. Luxury
“And new money, they are like… a disaster. They are all brands are closely tied to social status and peer pressure.
disasters. Seriously. Inside they are still the same person, In this market and in this group – particularly among
still the same poor person. They only try to look rich on the younger girls – the respondents claim to need luxuries.
outside, but it is not compatible with their inside, which is “When I was a little younger and lived in the States, I didn't
still poor.” - Cecilia care about brands. Here in China, there is huge peer
pressure; my friends can have the branded stuff. Psychologi-
The notion of “old” and “new” money, and the strong cally you have pressure. Everyone in my class has name
sentiments attached to it, has led to a strong need for a brand stuff.” - Lisa
luxurious lifestyle to obtain a certain social status, in
contrast to being able to buy the status through brands. One of the respondents, coming from a wealthy entrepre-
Social status, our respondents claim, is about being free neurial family, stressed that she frequently attends
(to buy and do what they want), having an international business parties with her mother where appearance is of
education, traveling the world, being wine connoisseurs, utmost importance. Wearing a designer handbag is
having a healthy lifestyle, practicing yoga and partaking in mandatory to gain respect and be a part of the group.
outdoor activities such as skiing, water sports, horseback Another, less wealthy, respondent stressed that:
riding, golf and tennis.
“For Chinese people it will be a little bit embarrassing to
“I play tennis, go to the gym and practice yoga. I like water always use the same bag. Especially when you work in the
sports, I sail and I've tried wind surfing, swimming and PR industry, and you have important meetings with clients,
diving.” - Christine who care about what brands you use. You need to have more
than one or two luxury brands to present yourself.” - Angela
But these opinions appear to be voiced only when
respondents are looking to distance themselves from the
newly rich. In all other parts of the interviews – and more
importantly, in the purchasing behavior – it is clear that
our young female consumers buy luxury products
precisely to reaffirm their social status. But they certainly
don't want to be seen in this way. Communication profes-
sionals need to provide a rationale to “legitimize” the
luxury purchase for the bearer: the craftsmanship, the
quality, or a “greater good” such as environmentalism.
Luxury for luxury's sake risks being associated with
baofahu, and several internationally known luxury brands
were highlighted in the interviews as less desirable
because they were seen as catering to the pretentious
crowd. Clearly, this is an area where international commu-
nications professionals need to proceed with great care.

10. Segmentation:
Introducing Desktop Cinderellas,
Golden Dolls and Trench Coat
Tigers

11. MSL China Executive Whitepaper
Communicating with young, Chinese, urban, female luxury consumers 11
Segmentation
Desktop Trench Coat
Golden Dolls Tigers
Cinderellas
Monthly 500-3000 RMB 10 000 RMB-unlimited 5000-30 000 RMB
shopping (≈50-300 Euro) (≈1000 Euro- (≈500-3000 Euro)
budget unlimited)
Social background (Lower) Middle Class/ Wealthy/Very Wealthy Upper Middle Class/
Salary Class Wealthy
View on luxuries A way to increase A necessity to a A part of luxury
social status life on top lifestyle
One of the most important findings from our interviews was that this group is not
homogeneous. While our group shares many similarities, they are also separated by
different values and aspirations. We have identified three groups of young, Chinese luxury
loving women belonging to the one-child generation: Desktop Cinderellas, Golden Dolls and
Trench Coat Tigers.

12. Desktop Cinderellas
“Look, I have status!”
The Desktop Cinderellas are usually white-collar office Perhaps because of such sacrifices, happiness of posses-
ladies. Individually, they do not spend large amounts of sion is much higher than with the other groups; there is a
money on luxury, but they do spend, and they are a large stronger feeling of gratification and achievement for these
group. Moreover, of all three groups, they are the most women.
desperate for luxuries. “I remember when I got my bag. I saw it and thought I
needed it. At that time I was still a student, so I got a part-
They may have international experience from studying time job. After one month, I rushed out and bought the bag.”
abroad, but in general, they have a more local outlook. - Julia
They dream about the world of the Golden Dolls, who
usually, as we will see, really are part of the established Since Desktop Cinderellas don't go shopping as often as
upper class in China. Since Cinderellas usually still live the other groups, the shopping environment is less
with their parents, they are able to indulge in conspicuous important to them. They mainly focus on the product itself
consumption two to three times per year. Due to their and not so much on the service or customer experience.
(lower) middle class background, Cinderellas are espe-
cially likely to find that their parents do not understand
their lifestyle choices. Brand Preferences
Cinderellas prefer “safe” well known marques with high
As China's urban middle class grows and becomes more brand recognition in China. They are not willing to risk
affluent, this category will continue to grow and luxury spending large amounts of money on the locally unknown
brands should therefore build a strong connection with label, even if this “unknown” is a high-status brand
these consumers today. One recent attempt has been internationally. Desktop Cinderellas get most of their brand
made by Dolce & Gabbana (D&G), which launched a high- education from friends, colleagues and other peers. Since
end cosmetics line in China in 2011. The product, devel- they don't have much experience with luxury brands,
oped together with consumer-goods giant Procter & brand reputation is their key priority. Since they cannot
Gamble, looks to introduce a new era of D&G glamour to afford to buy luxuries often, they prefer classic and
less affluent consumers. timeless items.
Consumer Behavior
Cinderellas typically buy less expensive luxury items such
as skin care products, cosmetics and perfumes. Due to
their limited purchasing power, they are not impulsive
buyers when it comes to larger items. They carefully
compare prices and calculate their expenses to buy
luxuries. As an example, one interviewee saved for more
than a year to buy a designer handbag worth about 16 000
RMB (≈1850 Euro). During that year she took the metro
instead of a taxi and always ordered the cheapest meals
for lunch.

13. MSL China Executive Whitepaper
Communicating with young, Chinese, urban, female luxury consumers 13
Chanel conducting high The Self and Social Status
Desktop Cinderellas are more collectivistic in their
level educational branding mindsets than Trench Coat Tigers and Golden Dolls. They
prefer to have a similar style as their friends rather than
in Shanghai standing out. Office ladies go for a more professional and
feminine style, with a touch of luxury. Others have a more
In 2011, Chanel shared its brand history, values juvenile style. They prefer to go shopping together with
and culture in an innovative and comprehensive friends since they like to hear their friends’ opinions.
way through Culture Chanel. This two-month
exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art Cinderellas are aspirational social climbers who believe
in Shanghai was especially made for the Chinese that luxury brands are an indication of social status.
audience and showcased the design legacy and Consequently, they purchase luxury brands in order to
life of the brand's iconic founder Coco Chanel. improve their social position in society.
The exhibition displayed roughly 400 items,
including loans from private collections and “You can use luxuries to upgrade your status. We buy luxury
museums worldwide. By doing this, Chanel took brands to create a better image, boost our success and
the opportunity to educate the market about its confidence.” - Jennifer
brand and its heritage, filling the void in a
This desire to be a member of a higher class may imply a
market where luxury brands do not have a long
great deal of peer pressure.
history and many consumers lack in-depth
information about the brand essentials. The “Some of my friends’ families have very, very much money.
broad marketing targeted a wide group who They will ask me to go shopping in Hong Kong with them but
might not individually be able to afford luxury in I don’t have so much money. And I felt pressure when a
quantity; the idea was to put Chanel on this friend of mine bought a very expensive bag a couple of
group's shortlist of “safe” brands whose value is months ago in Paris.” - Sabina
known to many and whose status and legacy is
highly desired.
Desktop Trench Coat
Golden Dolls
Cinderellas Tigers
Shopping
behavior Aspired Spontaneous Time pressured

14. Golden Dolls
“Look, I'm rich!”
Golden Dolls are often second-generation entrepreneurs.
They have often been sent abroad at a relatively young
age. They might be working in the family business, but
there are some who don't work at all. Their materialistic
lifestyle is the envy of many young women.
Dolls have similarities with the ill-regarded “second
generation rich” or “fù èr dài”, but many in this group work
hard to support their extravagant lifestyle. For them,
“being rich” is not enough, they harbor real aspirations of
“achieving something”, such as starting a business. It is
important for working Dolls to position themselves as
smart and ambitious, having the ability to create for
themselves what their parents once did for the family,
and they tend to look down on the non-working Dolls,
or fù èr dài, a term which usually refers to a person who is
content with spending the money of his or her parents.
“Sometimes when I drive on the street, I see those people
who drive shitty cars, they are ugly, they wear like shitty
clothes. But they are so happy. Like, how can they be so
happy? That's the life I want.” - Cecilia
Consumer Behavior
Golden Dolls are the most impulsive and unpredictable of
the three categories. They usually don't fantasize about
shopping like the Desktop Cindrellas or squeeze it in like
the Trench Coat Tigers; they just consume.
“I never think about it. If I go out and see it and like it, I will
immediately buy it. It's better for me not to take too much
money with me when I go out.” - Tiffany
“My mum always gives me enough money. I never feel that I
don't have enough money.” - Joanna
Golden Dolls are frequently on waiting lists for the latest
items from well known brands. Yet, they strongly dislike
waiting. The happiness of possession is relatively short-
term and there is a sense of indifference and nonchalance
towards luxury brands. Luxuries are seen as disposables.
“[…] it is so practical. It is not in leather, and I am such a
careless person; I would just drop my bag on the floor and
bla bla bla. Basically I don't give a damn about my bags and
[…], no matter how many times you drop it on the floor, it is
still good.” - Cecilia
Dolls are generally members of the VIP clubs of more
than one luxury brand. This is considered an additional
indication of social status. They expect royal treatment in
all encounters with the brand, and get upset if they don't
receive it.

15. MSL China Executive Whitepaper
Communicating with young, Chinese, urban, female luxury consumers 15
Brand Preferences
The personal relationship with the luxury brand is also the
main source of brand education. Golden Dolls have
extensive knowledge about the best-known brands, and
during their trips abroad they are also becoming increas-
ingly familiar with lesser-known houses. Dolls desire
young, lively and colorful brands with an extravagant and
sexy image. Prestige and exclusivity are the key character-
istics. For instance, one interviewee pointed out a specific
luxury brand which she actually thought had poor quality,
but which she still buys since she thinks the logo confers
high social status.
Dolls are open to try new trends and innovative ideas –
more so than the Desktop Cinderellas who prefer to play it
safe, and the Trench Coat Tigers who are less flexible when
it comes to changing styles. The most desired luxury item
amongst these consumers is a specific bag, which carries
a high price and is very hard to find. Only the top layer of
society can afford this bag – something that the Dolls find
extremely attractive.
“You have to carry [it]. It’s also a way to start a conversation,
that you are one of the group.”- Alicia
Fendi's fashion
extravaganza on the
Great Wall
In 2007, Italian fashion house Fendi, together
with legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld, held an
extravagant fashion show on the Great Wall. The
show was staged on the top of the ancient
structure, with spotlights lighting up the models
and casting the surrounding scenery into gloom.
As measured by its 1,500 mile length, it was
probably the longest catwalk in history.
The entire production was said to have cost
around 10 million dollars. "I seriously doubt that
there will be anything of this magnitude or
anything this magical for a very long time," said
Kate Bosworth, one of the A-list celebrities
attending the fashion extravaganza.
The mix of the over-the-top, larger than life
production and the international A-list glamour
was highly appealing to the young, rich Golden
Dolls, who referred to this event as the “perfect
branding”.

16. The Self and Social Status
Golden Dolls do not care about what people think of their
style, as long as they are seen as being rich. But they also
want to be seen as trend setters among their circle of
friends.
“I always have girl friends who say: Oh my God, I love your
shoes! Like where did you buy your shoes? And then they go
buy exactly the same ones.” - Cecilia
They change styles frequently and are always looking for
something new and exciting.
Desktop Trench Coat
Golden Dolls
Cinderellas Tigers
Worst fear Be perceived as Be perceived as Be perceived as
newly rich newly rich newly rich
“I have to change my look every day, otherwise I'll get so
bored. I think clothing, change clothes… It's a fast way to
change my mood. You feel like you are a new person. It's a
new day.” - Alicia
Dolls view luxuries as a reassurance. Buying luxury brands
makes them feel they belong to a superior status group. In
their social circles, it is generally expected that people
should use luxury items. Golden Dolls do not necessarily
have a passion for fashion, but there is still a strong
sentiment of needing the luxury brands within this group,
almost to the point of being an obligation.
Desktop Trench Coat
Golden Dolls
Cinderellas Tigers
Shopping Belonging Self expression
Social status
drivers
“If everyone has it, maybe I will have one too. […] If I don't like
the brand, I will still buy it. It shows social status.” - Joanna
Like everyone in this group of young, urban luxury loving
women, Golden Dolls generally fear being associated with
the newly rich. But they still like ostentatious brands. In an
attempt to distinguish themselves from “those newly
rich”, they always go for the latest models or items from
the new season, limited editions and items that are on
waiting lists. This makes them feel fashionable and
unique.

17. Trench Coat Tigers
“Look, I have style!”
Like the other groups, most of the Trench Coat Tigers are career-
focused professionals. Like the Golden Dolls, many of them are
entrepreneurs. They are on their way up in their careers, but are
not fully funding their luxury lifestyle on their own yet – they
still rely on money from their families. The main difference with
the other two groups is that they feel more “cosmopolitan” than
“Chinese” and they have adopted a rather foreign lifestyle.
Also, they are the most knowledgeable in terms of lifestyle
amongst the young, female luxury consumers in China, and
they pride themselves on having an international outlook on
life. For example, they might like to get a tan, while most
Chinese women are using whitening products for their skin. For
them, having an active and healthy lifestyle is fundamental, as
is being well-traveled and cultivated.
Desktop Trench Coat
Golden Dolls
Cinderellas Tigers
Get-togethers with Chilling Yoga
friends, Karaoke, Nightlife Outdoor activities
Interests Adventure, Travel
Online chatting, Luxury travel
Books Cars Wine
Desktop Trench Coat
Golden Dolls
Cinderellas Tigers
Public domestic Exclusive Exclusive
ones domestic ones international ones
Social
Renren.com P1 A Small World
Networks weibo
Kaixin001 weibo
weibo
Consumer Behavior
Trench Coat Tigers have a genuine interest in fashion. They have
developed, or are actively working to develop,
a strong personal taste, often based on their experiences
abroad. They are picky, and unforgiving if they have a bad
experience with a brand. Tigers are curious about up-coming
trends and designers and seek information from the sales
personnel. They also appreciate when sales staff understands
their taste and can show them reserved items. Many of these
women are VIPs of different luxury brands.
Tigers do talk about fashion and haute-couture with their
friends, but they usually do not talk about a specific new
purchase since they are afraid to show off. They may recom-
mend different brands and products, but everyone in their
circle is very particular about having her own style – uniqueness
is seen as a status symbol in itself.
“I am a person who likes to do things quietly. I have my own
thoughts about dress and fashion.”- Jennifer
Since Trench Coat Tigers are hard-working career women, they
do not have a lot of time for shopping and their shopping habits
are unstructured. They typically do their shopping abroad,
trying to find unique pieces from other countries. They are fond
of vintage items and cherish the story behind a rare vintage
find. These women are also more aware than the other groups
about social issues such as environmentalism.
“I try to contribute more than consume.”- Alexandra

18. Brand Preferences
Tigers prefer low-profile brands and new, up-and-coming
designers. They also tend to like multi-brand boutique
concepts – something that only exists on a small scale in
the largest Chinese cities. Excellent quality, brand history
and heritage as well as the aesthetic and emotional
content are what the Tigers are looking for in a luxury
brand.
“There is a difference between luxury goods and expensive
goods. Expensive goods have no history, no luxury. Just a
normal product, just more expensive than others.” - Rinna
Tigers emphasize that they dislike big logos. One inter-
viewee pointed out that she once got a very expensive
luxury handbag as a gift from a friend, but then never used
it because she did not like the big logo on the bag. Again,
this is because big logotypes and too much profiling give
associations to newly rich and counterfeits.
Desktop Trench Coat
Golden Dolls
Cinderellas Tigers
Hermès Human and Nature
Modes of
transport- Metro/bus Prestigious Expensive or
Aware
exhibition appeals to the
ation
Trench Coat Tigers
“I think it's too common and there are too many fakes, too In 2011, “Hermès” for its sub brand Shang Xia,
shiny and too high profile. I like something low-key, classy, created as a celebration to Asian craftsmanship,
timeless. Not a big logo, not 'look at me.' It's so much more organized a one month exhibition in Sinan
low-key.” - Alexandra Mansion in Shanghai. The exhibition was called
Human and Nature and was devoted to modern
craftsmanship and design. The 2012 showcased
The Self and Social Status collection includes furniture, decorative objects,
Trench coat Tigers are more fashion aware than fashion garments and accessories; combining heritage
followers. They like to be “in the know” and appreciate mixed with innovation.
being updated about trends and new products. However,
they do not frequently change styles. Sinan Mansion, where the exhibition was
“I admire people who can wear their own style. They wear the situated, is a historic villa constructed in the
stuff, not the stuff wears them. The financial value of each 1920s. Recently restored, the villa mixes tradi-
accessory is not so important. It's the whole outcome.” - tional architecture with contemporary facilities
Alexandra and design. For the exhibition, the villa's interior
was designed to mirror the theme Nature. For
The fashions of the 50's and 60's are popular with Tigers. instance, the first floor space was decorated with
To obtain a unique style, they mix different brands: 580 hand-made bamboo screens from Anji, in
expensive with cheap, luxury with non-luxury, well-known Zhejiang province.
with unknown.
“Like me, I usually use luxuries and very cheap things This creative, yet low key approach is attractive to
together. Just make my own style. The beautiful things are Trench Coat Tigers, who are looking for luxury
the most important. I don't care about the price.” - Cathy while wanting a reason to buy. The Hermès
exhibition was successful in radiating exclusivity
while avoiding anything too spectacular, and
Desktop Trench Coat
Golden Dolls Hermès has been rewarded by being extensively
Cinderellas Tigers
highlighted by Tigers as one of their go-tobrands.
International International
Local Celebrity Glamour Icons Fashion Icons
Fashion Icons Victoria Beckham, Coco Chanel,
idols Zhang Ziyi, Angelina Jolie, Jacqueline Kennedy,
Fan Bingbing,
Photos from Dave Samuel on Flickr
Megan Fox, Carla Bruni,
Gong Li, Shu Qi Blake Lively Alexa Chung

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and comments on trends, the industry and society as a whole.
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MSL China Executive Whitepaper
December 2011
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