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This document contains a summary of fashion-related articles and sections from an issue of WWD (Women's Wear Daily). The lead article discusses labor changes in China, including potential minimum wage increases and unions forming at Foxconn. Other sections cover topics like accessories, beauty, Marc Jacobs moving his show, and multicultural consumers. The document also previews several Fall 2013 fashion shows in New York, including Monique Lhuillier, Tommy Hilfiger, Billy Reid, Tibi, and DKNY. Protests at the Trina Turk show by the International Labor Rights Forum regarding fire safety in Bangladeshi factories are also mentioned.
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- 1. KAREN CHIANG Public Relations Spring 2013 Parsons The New School for Design
- 2. Table of Contents Cover Page……………………………..1 Table of Contents…………………..2 Lead Articles & Sections….......3-8 Fashion Week Report…………9-24 Five Trends…………………………….25-30 Three Top Shows……………………31-32 Press Release………………………….33-34 WWD Editors List………………….35-36
- 3. Lead Articles & Sections K A R E N C H I A N G
- 4. Friday,February8,2013 Lead Article Playing for Keeps by Iman, founder and CEO of Iman Cosmetics • Iman cosmetics understands that there is a different market that demands cosmetics that matches their skin tone. • Great marketing strategy, they stressed diversity. They are the pioneer in the field of cosmetics for different ethnics • Iman Cosmetics tapped into the culture itself, to understand what the market needs and wants. For example, hiring people from local communities for focus groups and learning their language Sections Beauty Marc Jacobs Moves Show Eye Fashion Scoops Multicultural Consumer New York Collections Fall 2013 10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2013 beauty beauty brand that filled the gap for black women because it was deeply personal for me. It was more than foundations and powders; it was ap- pealing to a deep psychologi- cal need that I think all black women needed at that time: to be told that they were beauti- ful, invited to sit at the cool table and courted in high style. However, as we gathered more information about the game we were in, we started to shift into the more holistic vision that we are known for now throughout our positioning and ad- vertising: Women of all skin tones want to look good when they rule the world. That is our funda- mental principle. osmetics, how to resonate with their cul- tural group. It starts at home. 2. Free Your Mind: Marketers can be incredibly perceptive about trends but tend to ste- reotype multicultural markets. Multicultural markets are nu- anced, but not alien. 3. Take It to the Streets: I’m not a big fan of the “expert opinion.” Nothing really beats hearing it specific cultural groups, but if advertising may be potentially offensive. Showing a collarbone to advertise luminous skin may be a norm in one country, but may be con- sidered lascivious in another. 5. Be a Flagrant Button Pusher: We’re a big fan of what some marketers call “the wink.” This is when a general market ad- vertisement or marketing cam- paign has a subversive message of alliance to a multicultural group with a sly social cue that is completely devoid of stereo- type. Again, this is where sophis- tication comes in. There’s usually an insider refer- ence that someone who is not part of that group would miss, thus hitting a sweet spot of recognition. Multicultural consum- ers often don’t want to be singled out, just included. tones of color spend their dis- posable dollars on beauty, and split the variables every which way to Sunday but in the end the findings were unequivocal. Well, what if she lives in Nashville versus New York? She wants to the you clearly have to be in bed with the multicultural consumer. It would be an exercise in foolish- ness not to invite this customer out to play. But the playground mentality has been industry standard for longer than it needs to be, where someone new rolls he atten- {Continued from page one} Itwouldbeanexercise infoolishnessnotto ethemulticultural VIEWPOINT The Multicultural Consumer: Don’tJustDateHer,MarryHer TANKTHINK BY IMAN Iman founded Iman Cosmetics, a groundbreaking beauty collection designed for women with skin of color, in 1994. Discovered in Nairobi in 1973 by Peter Beard, Iman became one of fashion’s most iconic models throughout the Seventies and Eighties. Today her products are sold throughout the world. 10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2013 beauty beauty brand that filled the gap for black women because it was deeply personal for me. It was more than foundations and powders; it was ap- pealing to a deep psychologi- cal need that I think all black women needed at that time: to be told that they were beauti- ful, invited to sit at the cool table and courted in high style. However, as we gathered more information about the game we were in, we started to shift into the more holistic vision that we are known for now throughout our positioning and ad- vertising: Women of all skin tones want to look good when they rule the world. That is our funda- mental principle. At Iman Cosmetics, we stick to a basic busi- ness strategy that starts with marketing and ac- tually extends to a cor- porate positioning. 1. What’s Your MI (Multicultural Intelligence)?: This is the spring- board for any marketing group that wishes to take a sophisti- cated approach to advertising and builds sustainable brand loyalty. How diverse is the group sitting at the boardroom table? Chances are, if there is how to resonate with their cul- tural group. It starts at home. 2. Free Your Mind: Marketers can be incredibly perceptive about trends but tend to ste- reotype multicultural markets. Multicultural markets are nu- anced, but not alien. 3. Take It to the Streets: I’m not a big fan of the “expert opinion.” Nothing really beats hearing it from the horse’s mouth, because direct communication with the communities of interest lends authenticity to insights. Hire people from local communities as focus-group moderators. 4. Know the Language: Any mar- keting group has to be on board with cultural mores. If you’re specific cultural groups, but if advertising may be potentially offensive. Showing a collarbone to advertise luminous skin may be a norm in one country, but may be con- sidered lascivious in another. 5. Be a Flagrant Button Pusher: We’re a big fan of what some marketers call “the wink.” This is when a general market ad- vertisement or marketing cam- paign has a subversive message of alliance to a multicultural group with a sly social cue that is completely devoid of stereo- type. Again, this is where sophis- tication comes in. There’s usually an insider refer- ence that someone who is not part of that group would miss, thus hitting a sweet spot of recognition. Multicultural consum- ers often don’t want to be singled out, just included. 6. Don’t Just Date Her, Marry Her: If you target a multi- cultural group one year, you can’t simply drop that group because there’s a new trend and focus. If groups are not courted on a continuous basis, they just go find a brand that will treat them the way they deserve to be treated, and this negligence translates to a hit on your ROI (return on investment). Period. tones of color spend the posable dollars on beaut split the variables every way to Sunday but in the e findings were unequivoca what if she lives in Nas versus New York? She w look good when she rul world. Or how about 18 to sus 35 to 50? She wants t good when she rules the Or a median income of $ versus one over $100,000 wants to look good whe rules the world. We can change the aesthetics; w to change our thinking. Everyone is hip to th {Continued from page one} Itwouldbeanexercise infoolishnessnotto invitethemulticultural customerouttoplay. VIEWPOINT The Multicultural Consumer: Don’tJustDateHer,MarryHer TANKTHINK BY IMAN Iman founded Iman Cosm designed for women with Nairobi in 1973 by Peter B iconic models throughou products are sold throug The Coach Love bottle (new fragrance for Valentine’s Day)
- 5. Monday,February11,2013 Lead Article China’s Changing Labor by Kathleen E. McLaughlin • Government seek to raise minimum wage by 2015. This will encourage more rural workers to fill jobs in the cities • Foxconn, the country’s largest private employer, is allowing employees to vote their union representatives. This movement could change the country’s the manufacturing industry and labor force • Textiles and apparel industries feel pressure to follow suit, especially if the outcome is favorable to workers Sections Accessories Innerwear/legwear Beauty Marc Jacobs Moves Show Fashion Scoops Multicultural Consumer New York Collections Fall 2013 Nicole Miller 8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013 Monique Lhuillier: Since her spring presentation five months ago, Tommy Hilfiger: The historic Park Avenue Armory was zip-up jackets and a Prince of Wales print on topcoats. band jackets to riffs on tuxedo dressing, which the designer Outsiders women’s collection. Retro staples like A-line Billy ReidTommy HilfigerMonique Lhuillier Billy Reid FALL NEW YORK 2013 COLLECTIONS LONDONFASHIONWEEKLONDONFASHIONWEEK MACCOSMETICS.TUMBLR.COM NEWYORKFASHIONWEEK WWD.COM FIRE SAFETY REFORMS: A handful ofpeople from the International LaborRights Forum distributed fliers Sundayafternoon in front of Lincoln Centerprior to Trina Turk’s fashion show,protesting Gap’s fire safety program.In the wake of recent factory fires inBangladesh and Pakistan that havekilled hundreds of apparel workers,ILRF is calling for apparel companies toshare their knowledge about workplacehazards openly and pay sufficient pricesto factories for necessary buildingrepairs. “We’re asking Trina Turk todo the right thing,” said Liana Foxvog,director of organizing for the ILRF. Sheexplained that Turk did a line last yearfor Banana Republic “and we believeshe has the ear of the Gap.” According to ILRF, Gap’s monitorsrepeatedly gave a clean bill of healthto That’s It Sportswear, the Bangladeshfactory that burned in December 2010,killing 29 workers, many leaping totheir deaths from the upper floors of thebuilding because locked stairway doorsprevented their escape. ILRF is calling on Gap to adopt afire safety program which would helpsave workers’ lives in Bangladesh. Theorganization planned to go to the Gapstore Sunday to deliver a message to thestore mana Fendi chairman and chief executiveofficer Pietro Beccari called the projectan example of the Roman firm’s “three-dimensional approach to makingbeautiful things.” Carla Fendi was to join DAMACexecutives at a press conference todayat the Dubai International FinancialCenter to unveil the project. DAMAC hascompleted 37 buildings to date, spanningalmost 8,000 residential units, with 65other buildings in development acrossthe Middle East and North Africa. — MILES SOCHA TAKE FIVE: For the fifth part of Miu Miu’sTales short series, the Italian brandtapped award-winning director AvaDuVernay to shoot “The Door,” whichfeatures Gabrielle Union, Alfre Woodard,Emayatzy Corinealdi, Adepero Oduye andsinger-songwriter Goapele.The film — a little over nine minutesin length— focuses on an actual door onthe modernist house of a main character(Union) who just went through a break-up. Friends come through that door toconsole her and, with their support, sheeventually overcomes her sadness andis able to move on. “The door in the film when asked if she preferred the frontrow. “I was so blessed and grateful. It wasa wonderful, meaningful moment for melast season to walk for Wang. I had neverwalked for him so it meant a lot. The fact[was] that he was supporting me throughsomething that was [a] really trying time.Now I want to support him because he’sso wonderful and he’s got such incrediblethings happening.…It showed a strengththat I needed.” Across the runway from Ross in thesmoky space, other front-row attendeesincluded Zoë Kravitz, Alison Mosshart andA$AP Rocky, who mugged for the cameraswith Terry Richardson — MATTHEW LYNCH BACK TO BLACK: “London is veryunusual…I think you can do knee-length, midlength or long,” said WilliamBanks-Blaney, founder of William Vintage,of the local red-carpet etiquette aheadof the BAFTAs. “There’s a greater senseof individuality. I think you can be abit different and be yourself a little bitmore.” Banks-Blaney, whose Londonstore specializes in vintage couture, andGillian Anderson cohosted a pre-BAFTAdinner on Friday night in collaborationwith Adler Jewellers. The BAFTAs —Britain’s answer to the Academy Awards— took place on Sunday night. Guestsincluded Laura Carmichael, Lily Cooper, LaraBohinc, Patrick Grant and Johanna Johnston.Vintage decadence was th popped around her. It was the firstfashion week appearance for Clarke,who is in rehearsals for “Breakfast atTiffany’s” on Broadway and soundedsmitten with New York, blizzard and all.“New York as a city is just phenomenaland I’ve fallen head over heels in lovewith it,” she said. “I braved the heels.”Elsewhere in the front row, theDanish singer Oh Land took some timeto dispel a Nordic winter weatherstereotype. “Everybody suspects thatwhen you’re from Denmark you will belike ‘all good.’ But yeah it’s way too coldfor me,” she laughed. “I want to go to thesouth. There’s not a lot of viking in me.” 19 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013 FASHIONSCOOPS Emilia Clarke PHOTOBYSTEVEEICHNER colorful and intriguing clothes. More controlled in volume compared to her spring show, the suits and loose top-and- pants combos looked great in head-to-toe prints. Relaxed candy-colored angora sweaters were scrumptious and a lovely mother-of-pearl pattern was worked in various tones on a coat, dress and matching blouse and skirt. Tibi: Sportswear, Nineties utilitarian, synthetic versus natural fabrics. Those were just a few of the descriptors designer Amy Smilovic called out backstage when describing her latest collection. Sportswear is what Tibi does best. Forget matchy-matchy — these were great pieces that a girl can put together in any number of ways, from dresses worn over pants to a knit dickie with a T-shirt. Working in a predominantly black-and-white palette with pops of brights, Smilovic’s outerwear looked particularly good in sculpted shapes, some with removable quilted vests and shearling linings for multiseasonal wear. The designer also continued her recent love affair with Neoprene, using it for hoodies and boxy T-shirts that paired well with slouchy pants and oversize leather shorts. Smilovic’s key print was comprised of abstract dots but most of the pattern was created with contrasting patches of color or materials like leather and ponyskin that gave a graphic, textured look. DKNY: Having just launched a collaboration with Opening Ceremony featuring reissues of early Nineties DKNY hits, Donna Karan returned to that period for fall, but this time through a hip-hop lens. Terrific oversize parkas and sweatshirts were featured, as well as fun animal prints that brought to mind the work of Stephen Sprouse. Karan also added large rounded shoul- ders to her silhouettes, particularly on structured mini- dresses and tops that combined multiple fab- rics including Neoprene. But the few evening looks here — long, flowing dress- es over skinny pants — felt out of synch with the rest of her strong sports- skirt crocheted in an ethnic pattern. Rose was playing on “a Brothers Grimm fairy-tale inspiration” but there wasn’t a Rapunzel in sight. Some dresses, like the swirling Robert Geller: The dark romanticism of Twenties Berlin permeated Robert Geller’s collection, whose plays on elongated proportions and artful layering continued to mature this season. The designer referenced German overall styling looked cleaner and more contemporary. Geller has created a firmly identifiable look that is brooding, modern and emblematic of a cool constituency in men’s wear. Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese looked black, anima She paired s leather moto fun one done con dresses all black wer comfort but to move from FALL NEW YORK 2013 COLLECTIONS Robert Geller
- 6. Tuesday,February12,2013 Lead Article Milan’s Export Drive by Luisa Zargani • Exports are saving the Italian more and more. Sales outside of Italy is expected to reach a new high in 2013 • Italian brands are depending on international markets to bring revenue in. The countries that are bringing most revenue are: Brazil, Russia, India, and China • Even with the economic crisis and upcoming elections in Europe. Many are still positive about their sales this upcoming year. Versace group CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris is confident for a double-digit growth in 2013 Sections Textile Ready to Wear Pop-Up Strategy Milan Preview Beauty Beat Milestone EVA MENDES TO DO LINE FOR NEW YORK CO. PAGE 4 NEW YORK WOMAN WWDTUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY $3.00 POP-UP STRATEGY Dior In Major Push Of Raf Simons’ Line By MILES SOCHA PARIS — Raf Simons’ first collection for Dior is arriv- ing at retail this month, accompanied by fanfare on a global scale. Dior is orchestrating a series of pop-up shops with key wholesale partners in the coming weeks, trans- planting the decor and atmosphere of Simons’ ready- to-wear show in Paris last September to retailers in- cluding Joyce in Hong Kong, 10 Corso Como in Milan, Maxfield in Los Angeles, Isetan in Tokyo, My Boon in Seoul and I.T. in Beijing. “This is a new New Look,” declared Dior chief ex- ecutive Sidney Toledano, referring to the extravagant, WWD MILESTONES DENNIS BASSO AT 30. SECTION II WWD.COM WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 20138 By ALESSANDRA TURRA MILAN — Europe’s economic uncertain- ty didn’t stop the creativity of the high- end Italian textile firms that presented innovative products at the 16th edition of Milano Unica, the three-day textile trade show that closed here on Friday. In 2012, the Italian textile industry posted a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to 8 billion euros, or $10.4 billion at aver- age exchange rates, compared with 2011. According to data provided by Italian fash- ion and textile consortium SMI Sistema Moda Italia, textile products dropped 3 Branding, innovation and internation- alization were the key ingredients high- lighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group chief executive officer Gildo Zegna to succeed in the current market. The com- pany, which closed 2012 reporting a 12 percent increase in revenues up to 1.25 billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast sin- gle-digit growth in 2013. “The year will be difficult, especially in the first part, also due to the strong euro,” Zegna said. Zegna pointed to the role of silk as one of the reasons for the brand’s success in international markets. He said, “Starting to combine silk with our traditional fi- Silk,” an inno- vative denimlike silk fabric. “The world of denim is extremely im- portant and we like the idea of combining it with something classic and traditional like silk,” Bocchese said. “This… reflects our current strategy focused on re- interpreting silk fabrics, our core products, in an Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also listed the strong euro and its impact on export pricing, in addition to dif- ficulties in obtaining bank credit, as among the problems that could affect the market in the coming months. At the fair, Botto Fila, which generates 70 percent of its rev- enues outside Italy, presented a collection focused on comfortable fabrics, mixing superfine wool with stretch materials. Patterns ranged from micro-houndstooth, soft tartans and thin pin- stripes to crease-resis- tant wool fabric. Technology took center stage at Marzotto as well, which launched “Scudo,” a line that features waterproof and breathable fab- rics made of cot- ton, a cotton-and- 8 Alcantara M Innovation Key at Milano Unica textiles WWD.COM WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 By ALESSANDRA TURRA N — Europe’s economic uncertain- dn’t stop the creativity of the high- talian textile firms that presented ative products at the 16th edition of o Unica, the three-day textile trade that closed here on Friday. 2012, the Italian textile industry d a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to ion euros, or $10.4 billion at aver- xchange rates, compared with 2011. ding to data provided by Italian fash- nd textile consortium SMI Sistema Italia, textile products dropped 3 nt in 2012, even with positive results pan, Russia, the U.S. and China. lping to give a positive feeling to ex- ors, Sir Paul Smith, a regular at the which this season saw the number of rs increase 5.5 percent compared February 2012, kicked off the show an insightful speech during the inau- Branding, innovation and internation- alization were the key ingredients high- lighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group chief executive officer Gildo Zegna to succeed in the current market. The com- pany, which closed 2012 reporting a 12 percent increase in revenues up to 1.25 billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast sin- gle-digit growth in 2013. “The year will be difficult, especially in the first part, also due to the strong euro,” Zegna said. Zegna pointed to the role of silk as one of the reasons for the brand’s success in international markets. He said, “Starting to combine silk with our traditional fi- bers has been a very smart strategy that enabled us to enrich summer collections with products featuring the same luxury standards of the winter season.” At Milano Unica, the Biella-based com- pany presented a new fabric mixing mohair with silk. This is also available with Cool Effects technology that reduces the absorp- Silk,” an inno- vative denimlike silk fabric. “The world of denim is extremely im- portant and we like the idea of combining it with something classic and traditional like silk,” Bocchese said. “This… reflects our current strategy focused on re- interpreting silk fabrics, our core products, in an unconventional and cre- ative way.” Denim also inspired Loro Piana’s “Lin de Nîmes,” a linen fabric with a denim effect designed for men’s and women’s casual pants and outerwear. In addition, the company in- troduced men’s lightweight, crease-resis- Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also listed the strong euro and its impact on export pricing, in addition to dif- ficulties in obtaining bank credit, as among the problems that could affect the market in the coming months. At the fair, Botto Fila, which generates 70 percent of its rev- enues outside Italy, presented a collection focused on comfortable fabrics, mixing superfine wool with stretch materials. Patterns ranged from micro-houndstooth, soft tartans and thin pin- stripes to crease-resis- tant wool fabric. Technology took center stage at Marzotto as well, which launched “Scudo,” a line that features waterproof and breathable fab- rics made of cot- ton, a cotton-and- silk blend, stretch poplin and wool paired with an exclu- sive high-tech Japanese membrane. Marzotto-owned velvet- maker Redaelli Velluti launched light- weight linen corduroy, available in a nat- Alcantara M M Bocchese nnovation Key at Milano Unica extiles WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY,FEBRUARY12,2013 8 ByALESSANDRATURRA MILAN—Europe’seconomicuncertain- tydidn’tstopthecreativityofthehigh- endItaliantextilefirmsthatpresented innovativeproductsatthe16theditionof MilanoUnica,thethree-daytextiletrade showthatclosedhereonFriday. In2012,theItaliantextileindustry posteda5.1percentdropinrevenuesto 8billioneuros,or$10.4billionataver- ageexchangerates,comparedwith2011. AccordingtodataprovidedbyItalianfash- ionandtextileconsortiumSMISistema ModaItalia,textileproductsdropped3 percentin2012,evenwithpositiveresults inJapan,Russia,theU.S.andChina. Helpingtogiveapositivefeelingtoex- hibitors,SirPaulSmith,aregularatthe fair,whichthisseasonsawthenumberof visitorsincrease5.5percentcompared withFebruary2012,kickedofftheshow withaninsightfulspeechduringtheinau- guralpressconferenceonWednesday. Smithhighlightedtheimportancefor fashiondesigners,whomheviewsastoo shelteredintheir“ivorytowers,”toat- tendtradeshowsinordertobeinspired andmeetpeople.Tomeetthechallenges ofthemarket,theBritishdesignersug- gestedentrepreneursshould“pushtheir creativity”and“thinklaterally”tocreate brandsfocusedon“individuality”and thathaveaclear“pointofview”anda “balance”betweenmorecommercialand fashionableproducts. Branding,innovationandinternation- alizationwerethekeyingredientshigh- lightedbyErmenegildoZegnaGroup chiefexecutiveofficerGildoZegnato succeedinthecurrentmarket.Thecom- pany,whichclosed2012reportinga12 percentincreaseinrevenuesupto1.25 billioneuros,or$1.6billion,forecastsin- gle-digitgrowthin2013. “Theyearwillbedifficult,especially inthefirstpart,alsoduetothestrong euro,”Zegnasaid. Zegnapointedtotheroleofsilkasone ofthereasonsforthebrand’ssuccessin internationalmarkets.Hesaid,“Starting tocombinesilkwithourtraditionalfi- bershasbeenaverysmartstrategythat enabledustoenrichsummercollections withproductsfeaturingthesameluxury standardsofthewinterseason.” AtMilanoUnica,theBiella-basedcom- panypresentedanewfabricmixingmohair withsilk.ThisisalsoavailablewithCool Effectstechnologythatreducestheabsorp- tionofsunlight,allowingmentoweardark- coloredsuitsduringthesummer. Manyoftheexhibitorsatthetrade showconfirmedthatsilkisontheup- swing.Theincreaseddemandforthe naturalfiberisprobablythereasonfor theinstabilityofitsprice,whichhassig- nificantlyriseninthelastfewmonths. “Duetosilk’shighcost,wehadto raiseourpricesby5to10percent,”said Bocchese1908ceoMicheleBocchese. Inkeepingwiththecompany’sDNA, theItalianfirmlaunched“DenimLoves Silk,”aninno- vativedenimlike silkfabric.“Theworld ofdenimisextremelyim- portantandwelikethe ideaofcombiningitwith somethingclassicand traditionallikesilk,” Bocchesesaid.“This… reflectsourcurrent strategyfocusedonre- interpretingsilkfabrics, ourcoreproducts,inan unconventionalandcre- ativeway.” DenimalsoinspiredLoro Piana’s“LindeNîmes,”alinen fabricwithadenimeffectdesigned formen’sandwomen’scasualpantsand outerwear.Inaddition,thecompanyin- troducedmen’slightweight,crease-resis- tantwoolfabric“Accademia,”alongwith “AquaWool,”amachine-washableknit woolfabricavailableinpiquéorjersey. “Ourstrategyisdefinitelynotdrivenby fear,insteadwearepushingonresearch creatingnewinnovativeproducts,”said ceoPierLuigiLoroPiana,whoforecast thatthecompany,whichsawitstextile unitclose2012witha5percentincrease, willkeepgrowingin2013.“I’mconfident thatboththeU.S.andChinawillperform prettywellthisyear,despitetherising valueoftheeuro.” BottoFilaceoAlbertoBertonialso listedthestrongeuroanditsimpact onexportpricing,inadditiontodif- ficultiesinobtainingbankcredit,as amongtheproblemsthatcouldaffect themarketinthecomingmonths. Atthefair,BottoFila,which generates70percentofitsrev- enuesoutsideItaly,presenteda collectionfocusedoncomfortable fabrics,mixingsuperfinewoolwith stretchmaterials.Patternsranged frommicro-houndstooth, softtartansandthinpin- stripestocrease-resis- tantwoolfabric. Technologytook centerstageat Marzottoaswell, whichlaunched “Scudo,”aline thatfeatures waterproofand breathablefab- ricsmadeofcot- ton,acotton-and- silkblend,stretch poplinandwool pairedwithanexclu- sivehigh-techJapanese membrane. Marzotto-ownedvelvet- makerRedaelliVellutilaunchedlight- weightlinencorduroy,availableinanat- uralcolorpalette.Silk-makerandprint specialistRattiusednewtechniquesto obtainsophisticatedandunusualpat- terns,showingexploded-likedotsand Bretonstripes. Shirt-fabric-makerTestaalsoplayed withpatterns,includingmoreelegant stripesandchiccasualchecksprinted oncottonandcotton-and-linen-blend fabrics.Thecompanyalsoembracedone oftheseason’sbiggesttrends—denim —intheformoftwo-tonehigh-end clothsforjeans. 8 Alcantara M M Bocchese InnovationKeyatMilanoUnica textiles ByARTHURFRIEDMAN NATIONALCOTTONCOUNCILecono- miststolddelegatesatthegroup’sannu- almeetinginMemphisonSaturdaythat theoutlookforcottonthisyearwillbe influencedbyChina’spolicydecisions andcontinuedcompetitionfromman- madefibers. GaryAdams,NCC’svicepresidentof economicsandpolicyanalysis,saidrecent dataonfibermarketsharedemonstrates themanychallengesfromsyntheticfibers. “Measuredonthebasisofpounds ofcottonfiber,the2012U.S.retailcot- tonmarket[about17millionbales]fell tothelowestlevelsince1996,amida fourthconsecutiveyearofdeclining marketshare,”Adamssaid. Continuedgrowthinmilluseisbeing supportedbytherelativelystableprice patternofrecentmonths,morecompeti- tivepriceswhencomparedwithpolyes- ter,andmorefavorablespreadsbetween yarnvaluesandfiberprices,henoted. China’scurrentpolicyisanotherfac- torlendingsupporttomilluseinother countries.Bypurchasingitsdomes- ticproductionatprices40to50cents aboveworldprices,Chinaisensuring thatitsinternalpricesarewellabove worldpricesandcausingitscottonspin- ningtobeuncompetitive,Adamsnoted. FabricmanufacturersinChinaarein- creasinglylookingtofilltheiryarnde- mandwithimportedproduct. China’spolicy,whilesupportingpric- esreceivedbyfarmers,actsasataxon textilemillsandhasfurtheredtheshift CottonOutlookCloudedbyChina Runbypeople notformulas. While not putting the spotlight on politics, it “can’t be overlooked,” said Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of Aeffe SpA, which con- trols the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini brands and produces and distributes collections for Cacharel and Cédric Charlier. “We can survive with bad political management, but with a correct one, we can do better.”Ferretti has been increasingly internationaliz- ing and rejuvenating the group, which posted rev- enues of 254 million euros, or $325.1 million at av- erage exchange, last year, with a 14 percent jump in the last quarter of 2012. “The year did not start well but ended on a positive note, with s make us hope for the resDurin with the previous year. Asia-Pacific continued to be the Florence-based group’s core market, but chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo said all geograph- ic areas “responded well” to the brand. “Historically, in moments of crisis, we grow more,” he said, citing the timeless nature of the product as one of the drivers. The company, which successfully went public two years ago, plans to further expand around the world in 2013.“There are new and important potential a for business,” he said.Asked aboutF WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 20 MILAN PREVIEW Exports a BoonFor Italy SARA BA years ol is defini fashion i The yo ist Giovaworked fedgy bagMoltedo benamesake l “I was nstart my ownpushed me athe first piecon fringe,” sdesigner, whobag collection the hyper-femininethe Fifties and SixtieTo highlight thglamorous yet ironeach season Battafor A loo By A O Versace’s store inManhattan’s SoHo. FOR MILANSCENE, SEE WWD.com/eye. {Continued from page one}
- 7. Wednesday,February13,2013 Lead Article Kors Looking to Grow With Retail, E-Commerce by Vicki M. Young • In addition to their ongoing conversion of department store doors to shops-in-shop. Kors plan bring in North American e-commerce business business in February 2014 so it can create an omnichannel experience for customers, whether in-store or online • Kors is developing new products to add to their line. Over the holiday season, the drivers of sales was small leather goods and handbags. Also, showing performance was the company’s new jewelry business. Which could eventually be one of the biggest revenue generator for the brand nationally and internationally • The company said it entered into a joint venture agree- ment with Exclusive Brands International to create MK Panama Holdings, which will enable Kors to expand its re- tail and wholesale presence in Central and South America, as well as the Caribbean Sections Sports Denim Las Vegas Preview Club Night The Runway Report WWD.COM WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 SECTION II WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW 12 Labels on the rise at Emerging Designer Showcase. Yigal Azrouël ALEXANDER WANG Alexander Wang embraced the luxuriant tex- tures and cozy feel of fuzzy fabrics, from rich knits to mohair to fur, to express his message in his Fall 2013 collection. Coupled with the softening of his trademark angular quality, the feel was modern and indulgent. A downtown edge came in the form of ribbed knit caps and oversized fur mittens. Grey overwhelmingly drove the line-up, though some touches of rust, and white and black were peppered into the mix. He also favored lowered waistlines and crisscross details for a chic sophistication. When it came to fur, pony took a front-and-center spot for its unparalleled reflective properties, whereas kidskin fur and lamb helped Mr. Wang develop and define his shapes. HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA The classic Hervé Léger bandage dress is, of course, on the menu for Fall 2013—but in his show notes, Max Azria states that he draws inspiration from the works of several modern French artists. Unexpected floral and fauna references invoke the energy of the whimsical surrealist work he admires. This collection was darker and more discreet in mood from last year, and it delivered an intricate JASON WU Thanks to that stunning inaugural gown, 2013 looks to be another great year for Jason Wu. His Fall 2013 collection is a triumphal ode to femininity. Mr. Wu is becoming more comfortable with himself and isn’t afraid to experiment. It seems he could be revealing a new sexiness that will somewhat redefine his brand image. Glamorous, yet easy to wear, this collection energized and expanded Wu’s established aesthetic with striking, fun, and flirty looks. This time around Wu took chic American sports- wear styles and integrated them with a few updated street-chic pieces for a new vision of sophistication. Combining a black exotic skin jacket with a soft white skirt, or a fur-trimmed leather vest with a crisp buttoned-up white shirt may not raise an eyebrow. Yet when the juxtaposition transcends from day to evening, the looks become fresh and fun. JEN KAO Jen Kao’s show felt a bit like Paris circa 1982. The vibe was young, and the delivery was impactful. Aside from great leatherwork, Ms. Kao introduced a brick pattern patchwork with geometric offshoots in black and indigo blues. She interspersed the pattern throughout, pairing it with leather, vinyl, denim, SON JUNG WAN Son Jung Wan’s Fall 2013 collection was an interesting medley that comfortably bridged Korean propriety with Western sartorial largesse. The collection—a presentation of unorthodox bipolarity influenced by the Russian modernist art movement and the opulence of great Russian dwellings—read surpris- ingly modern. Blunt cuts and proportions were tapered with softer colors and luxe materials. Where harsher textiles dominated a look, more intricate treatments fostered sophistication. Her furs were as varied as her collection. She used fox, mink, Rex rabbit and lippi cat with equal confidence, creating full or partial sleeves, epaulettes, wrapped collars and unisex ringed scarves. Her oversized gold sequin embroidered fox coat stole the show. YIGAL AZROUËL Yigal Azrouël favors looks that enhance the female silhouette. He uses small knits to swath torsos, belts and peplums to zone in on the midsection, stovepipe or PJ style trousers to elongate legs. Mr. Azrouël also likes to wrap his girls in chunky sweaters and coats. With his Fall 2013 collection, he opted for an intricate, tailored fit, even adding a bustier or two to ADVERTISEMENT Snow may have overtaken the Eastern Seaboard, but it didn’t dampen New York Fashion Week at all. As they say, the show must go-on. Designers and show-goers marched on with unaltered enthusiasm as innovation and fresh, new creative interpretations expanded the fashion vocabulary. THE RUNWAY REPORT Hervé Léger by Max Azria Son Jung Wan Jen Kao NEW YORK // FEBRUARY 13, 2013 Alexander Wang Jason Wu ADVERTISEMENT THE R RSon Jung Wan NEW Alexander Wang Jason Wu
- 8. Thursday,February14,2013 Lead Article London Wants More Than a Fashion Moment by Samantha Conti • Want to start up British luxury brands, no longer want to be a stopover for Milan, Paris, and New York • London wants to reach for global consumers and push for British designers. Main goal is to put British designers on the map. According to the British Fashion Council, the number of major buyers from major U.S. stores will attend. The list includes Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdale’s • Prime Minister David Cameron wants to “reindustrialize” the fashion industry in Britain. He wants to see more high end goods manufactured in Britain Sections Menswear Man of the Week Pushing for Performance Fashion Scoops WWD Digital Forum WWD.COM 4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2013 She stressed that fashion is for life — not just four weeks a year. “The British fashion industry operates 365 days a year across the world, and we intend to capitalize on its creativity,” she said. “We are at a crucial tipping point thanks to a perfect storm of talent working both here and abroad. This talent has con- sistently been the calling card of British designers, and with the unprecedented reach to a global consumer — thanks to the Internet — this is driving de- mand, and therefore sales, glob- ally for both British designer brands and for the global labels of which they are at the helm.” She’s been in the job only since Jan. 1, but Massenet has already helped to attract private sector experts — from the digi- tal, tech, investment and retail worlds — who are ready to con- tribute their time and talent to the BFC. In the coming weeks, the BFC will reveal that a big- name player from the digital world will begin a collaboration with them — boosting British fashion’s online presence. This season, according to the BFC, the number of major buy- ers in attendance will be up 18 percent year-on-year, while a large number of U.S. stores will attend. The list includes Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdale’s. Earlier this year, for the first time, Prime Minister David Cameron threw his weight behind the industry, pumping up industry figures dur- ing a speech at Number 10 Downing Street. The speech and cocktail kicked off the January edition of London Collections: Men, the new stand-alone fashion showcase for men’s wear launched by the BFC last year. “Fashion is not just some sort of accessory, you’re not an add-on,” he told industry figures including Ford, Tommy Hilfiger, Richard James and Jonathan Saunders. The ultraenthusiastic Cameron also told his audience that he wants to see more high-end goods manufactured in Britain as part an overall strategy to “reindustrialize” the country. “You have my 100 per- cent support, so just go for it!” Cameron was taking a cue from his wife, Samantha Cameron, who has been a BFC ambassador since 2010, and who has been hosting her own cocktail parties at Number 10, together with the BFC. The next one will take place Friday night, with designers, buy- ers and press in attendance. Samantha Cameron knows the fashion crowd well since she re- mains creative consultant to the British luxury brand Smythson in addition to her duties as Britain’s First Lady. True, London fashion has witnessed golden moments be- fore, most recently during the mid-Nineties when designers such as Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Antonio Berardi, Stella McCartney, Julien Macdonald and Matthew Williamson rose to prominence. But those designers eventually quit London and decamped to Paris, Milan or New York — where the money, buyers and in- ternational press were. London gradually faded again into its perennial role: an interesting stopover on the calendar if there was time to see the latest crop of designers trained by the city’s famed fashion schools, and to visit the innovative retail con- cepts that seemed to spring up all over the city like mushrooms. This time around, designers are increasingly staying put in a town that is attracting more money, international attention and more major names than ever before thanks in large part to the groundwork laid down by the BFC over the past few years. Ford has said his decision to show both his men’s and women’s collections in London was a nat- ural one. “I’ve had a house here since 1997, my design studio is here and I love London. In many ways it’s my home. A lot of [my decision] was personal,” he said. In addition, by the end of this year, Ford will have 93 stand- alone stores and shops-in-shop, including an 8,000-square-foot unit on Sloane Street due to open in the second half. “So we need to be doing a proper women’s wear show. We’re committed to London for the near term, and as long as we can attract the press we need, we’ll stay here. Ultimately, that will be the test,” he said. Scott, who in past seasons has shown and presented in New York and Paris, said she always goes to the beat of her own drummer when it comes to picking a city. “I really wanted to show in London this time. It’s where I create, the team is here, and it feels like the right time, espe- cially as we build and expand the business in Europe. The city itself is full of excitement and is far more important internation- ally than people give it credit for,” she said, adding that she does her print and fabric devel- opment, embroidery work and tailoring in the U.K. Even London Fashion Week veterans are getting renewed at- tention of late, especially on the financial front. Over the past six months — and well before Kane’s deal with PPR — two London Fashion Week fixtures secured funding for their labels with an eye to further international expansion. In September Amanda Wakeley, the brand known for its bridal collections, long silk dress- es, coats and suits favored by the Duchess of Cambridge, secured “significant” financial invest- ment from private equity firm AGC Equity Partners, following the restructuring of the business. The funds are being used to develop the company as a luxu- ry lifestyle brand. Luxury goods management veteran Sagra Maceira de Rosen is working with Wakeley, who launched the label in 1990, and who serves as creative director. In August, Mayhoola for Investments took a minority stake in Anya Hindmarch in a deal valuing the business at 70 million pounds, or $110 million. Mayhoola, a vehicle backed by a private investor group from the Qatari monarchy, is the same company that acquired Valentino Fashion Group in July. Over the next four years Hindmarch, who founded the company 25 years ago, plans to upgrade the business, fine-tune the brand positioning and boost the geographical reach together with ceo James McArthur. 4 LONDON PREVIEW London Set for the Spotlight By DAVID MOIN LINDA HEASLEY WILL join Lane Bryant on Monday as president and chief executive officer, leaving behind Limited Stores, where she held the same titles for the past six years. Heasley’s challenge will be to further a strategy already set in motion by Lane Bryant’s new owner to modernize and turn around the performance of the $1 billion, 800-unit large-size specialty chain. “Lane Bryant is a bit of a challenged business,” acknowledged David Jaffe, president and ceo of the Ascena Retail Group Inc., which last spring acquired the retailer through its $890 million deal for Charming Shoppes Inc. While Ascena’s total company sales, Internet included, were up 1 percent on a com- parable basis in the last quarter, Lane Bryant was down 9 percent. “We purchased Charming Shoppes to get to Lane Bryant. It’s where we see the potential. It’s an iconic, 100-year-old busi- ness,” said Jaffe. “There have been some changes of strategy over the last 10 years at Lane Bryant,” hurting the performance and perception of the business. “Now we are trying to build a consistent look and brand that customers will feel good about. We believe these customers should be afforded the same fashion choices and the same opportunities to feel good about the way she dresses,” Jaffe said. Heasley’s appointment is expected to be revealed today. The president and ceo slot at Lane Bryant has been vacant since last fall when Brian Woolf retired. Jaffe listed a host of accomplishment by Heasley at The Limited, among them revamping product lines and introduc- ing new brand positioning and a new plus-size line, launching e-commerce and a new store design, and returning The Limited to sustained profitability for the first time in 17 years. Earlier in her career, she held senior-level roles at Timberland, Limited Brands and CVS. Since the fall, Ascena’s strategy at Lane Bryant has been to update the mer- chandise, marketing and image. There’s a new logo and fresher colors seen in the advertising, direct mail and in-store vi- suals. “The whole idea is to bring Lane Bryant up to the current modern aesthet- ic of the customer,” Jaffe said. The strategy also involves shifting much of the store base from malls to strip centers through store openings and relo- cations. Ascena, with its other divisions including Dress Barn and Maurices, is comfortable operating stores in strip centers and believes they provide the greatest convenience to customers. At least 50 new stores are seen opening in the next three years, and in two weeks, a 6,000-square-foot Lane Bryant will open on New York’s 34th Street, between Seventh and Eighth Avenues. Jaffe said the site will be the Lane Bryant flagship and prototype for future stores. Another opportunity is to grow the on- line business, where 15 percent of Lane Bryant’s sales are currently conducted. That’s a higher percentage than most retailers, which are generally around 10 percent or less. FOR MORE COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ eye. Heasley to Lane Bryant as CEO {Continued from page one} Julien Macdonald on the runway for spring 2012. Tom Ford Alice Temperley’s store in London. Linda Heasley PHOTOBYKYLEERICKSEN STOREPHOTOBYINDIGO/GETTYIMAGES;FORDBYSTEVEEICHNER;MACDONALDBYGIOVANNIGIANNONI by DAVID LIPKE NEW YORK — Lanvin marked the opening of its new men’s boutique at 807 Madison Avenue on Tuesday evening. The crowd, which included Theophilus London, Monique Péan, Timo Weiland, Alexis Stoudemire, Charlotte Sarkozy and Dr. Lisa Airan, explored the three-level store, located in a historic town- house. Two of the floors above the store are occupied by Lanvin offices. The 4,200-square-foot store, which opened to the public last month, is the first men’s bou- tique in the U.S. and is situated a few doors away from an existing women’s boutique at 815 Madison Avenue. The store design is a new concept conceived by Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz and archi- tects MR Architecture + Decor. A similar design is used in newly opened Chicago, Hong Kong and Beirut boutiques. “A man needs to be reassured, to be heard, to get straight to the point, and to know in an instant that he is in a place of expertise. I wanted to recreate the spirit of an hôtel par- ticulier where each wall, each piece of furniture, each detail alludes to a savoir-faire and discreet luxury which calls upon the highest quality materials,” said Elbaz, who was not present at the opening party. The first floor houses the runway collections of men’s designer Lucas Ossendrijver, with the rear spaces dedicated to sportswear, accessories and sneakers. The latter category has been a key sales driver in men’s, and this season Lanvin introduced its first cross-training sneaker. Tailored clothing, furnishings and formalwear are housed on the second floor, including a built- in wall unit for dress shirts and an antique vitrine for bow ties, pinned like butterflies. The third floor offers a VIP salon and made- to-measure service, in an elegant room anchored by an Art Deco chandelier and the townhouse’s original fireplace. Men’s comprises 20 percent of total U.S. sales in Lanvin stores and 15 percent in wholesale. Lanvin now operates seven stores in the U.S., including the two New York flagships; dual-gender stores in Chicago, Las Vegas and Beverly Hills, and women’s-only stores in Bal Harbour, Fla., and Malibu, Calif. A new women’s store will open in South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., midyear. JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE: B+Man of THE WEEK The pop star’s infatuation with clothes is reaching new heights with the release of his single “Suit Tie,” in which he calls out Tom Ford in the video. No shocker, then, that he chose the designer to dress him for the awards season, including Sunday night’s Grammys. Lanvin Men’s Store Opens on Madison China Crackdown Could Hit Men’s by CASEY HALL SHANGHAI — With incoming President Xi Jinping repeatedly flagging a crackdown on corruption and conspicuous consumption as top priorities for his government, China watchers are concerned the result may be a hit for a men’s mar- ket traditionally buoyed by the cul- tural practice of “gift giving.” A new “frugal working style” rule on civil servants also official- ly went into effect last October, banning those paid from the pub- lic purse from throwing lavish banquets, buying expensive cars and accepting luxurious gifts. Gift giving and bribery are both widespread in China, and their pervasiveness has been some- thing of a boon for the world’s top luxury brands — particularly in regards to the men’s sector, which has traditionally been the backbone of China’s luxury mar- ket. According to research from brokerage CLSA, men account for about 55 percent of China’s luxury goods market, well above the glob- al average of 40 percent. Studies from Bain Co. have indicated that, between 2005 and 2009, the luxury goods market for men in China grew by 48 percent. By 2011, sales data at Beijing’s Sogo Department Store showed that men contributed 30 percent to its total sales, yet their individual expenditure was two to three times higher than female customers. Many within China are waiting to see just how serious the flagged crackdown will be and how much impact it will have on gift giving, with experts divided on the poten- tial for damage to luxury sales. “If there is an effective crack- down on corruption, the gift- giving culture will be changed in China,” said He Jiahong, a pro- fessor at Renmin University and an expert on corruption. “I think the corrupt officials will be more careful, and will find more invis- ible means for their wealth.” Flora Sapio, a professor of Chinese law at the Chinese University of Hong Kong, said that while she believes the incom- ing government is serious about cracking down on corruption, the affect on gift giving and a cul- ture of conspicuous consumption among China’s political and busi- ness elite will be minimal. “Today, gift-giving is a minor form of corruption. The best corrupt deals are to be made elsewhere: in the real estate sector, on the stock market, through the manipulation of public-private partnerships, just to name a few,” Sapio said. “The display of luxury goods testifies to the lifestyle of China’s political-economic elite, their in- come levels and consumption pat- terns. None of these is going to change significantly in the near future, unless China experiences a serious economic downturn, which is highly unlikely,” added Sapio. Whatever the future impact, the idea of a crackdown on cor- ruption has been popular with the chattering classes, with a number of high profile “outings” of corrupt officials by Chinese netizens. One standout was the case of “Brother Watch.” The nickname was bestowed by the Chinese Internet on a lowly bureaucrat (with a commensurately lowly sal- ary) who was photographed wear- ing a number of expensive, pres- tige brand watches. Prestige watches have been a favored gift for politically, economi- cally and socially — and sometimes all three — powerful men in China and, in recent years, Beijing’s regu- lar Party Congresses have become a parade of straight-faced suits sporting Rolex, Omega, Cartier and Patek Philippe timepieces. “The first watches were brought to China by French missionaries in the 17th century and were original- ly a gift to emperors and so on. So the love affair between watches and China and the relationship between men in China and the culture of gifting have developed in tandem,” David Sadigh, chief executive of- ficer of Digital Luxury Group, told WWD. The group recently released a report called “World Luxury Index China: Watches.” Research from Bain showed yearly sales of luxury watches fell 5 percent on Mainland China in 2012, compared to growth of as much as 40 percent in 2011, and statistics from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry show that Swiss watch exports to Mainland China dropped 27.5 percent year- on-year in September. China’s slowing economy is obviously one factor at play in the slowdown of the formerly red-hot men’s prestige watch market, but Sadigh points to the corruption crackdown as another cause. “The impact of a crackdown on corruption in China is very impor- tant and we have already seen this,” Sadigh said. “I think we have to be very careful and we don’t know what will happen, but I think for watches especially, as far as global brands are concerned, they should be very careful with how luxury goods and these kind of things will be per- ceived by this government.” There is an upside for some with- in with high-end men’s market in China, with Microsoft Advertising’s “Luxury Connoisseurs” study find- ing that more men are buying luxury goods for themselves than ever. “If you look at the percentage of men buying for personal versus gifts, the majority is personal, even for men. Of the gift giving, men do a larger percentage, but over three-quarters of the men’s market is still personal buying,” said Adam Anger, the Greater China region’s general manager for advertising and online at Microsoft. Pierre Xiao Lu, author of “Luxury China, Market Opportunities and Potentials” and a luxury business consultant, said this shift away from gifting and towards personal consumption will be a boon for the men’s personal care seg- ments, which he predicted will grow at a “positive double-digit” rate. Though other segments of the luxury market traditionally driv- en by men will perhaps grow at a slower rate than in recent years, Lu is quick to emphasize that there will still be growth. “For fashion and accessories, I think they will be stable, but still growing. The most affected sectors will be watches and jewelry, other things — from wine and spirits, yachts, cars, private jets — will continue to grow at a sta- ble rate,” Lu said. Brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta have already invested heavily in the rising personal consump- tion of Chinese men on the lookout for stylish substance over excess bling by expanding their product ranges and setting up specialty gents stores in the Greater China region. “I can say that for Ferragamo, the men’s catego- ries [in China] are significantly important,” said Michele Norsa, ceo of Salvatore Ferragamo. “All together worldwide, we do ap- proximately 40 percent in men’s, and in China it’s 45 percent, so China is a particularly strong market for men’s.” Norsa believes his brand will be cushioned by the impact of any softening in the gift giving market because the belts, ties and wallets often given as gifts from Salvatore Ferragamo are “not so ostentatious. We are not talking about items that could be subject to moral judgment.” In addition, Norsa was con- fident that, even if there was an impact on business following a slowdown in gift giving, the increase in business from sec- ond- and third-tier cities, which are continuing to embrace lux- ury brands at a rapid pace, will more than make up for it. “I was in China recently and I saw the mood after the political changes appears to be good, so we are looking forward to 2013 to being a positive year,” Norsa said. “The lead up to Chinese New Year is always a good time and it’s very visible in Europe to see significant numbers of Chinese shopping here. It’s im- portant to our industry and we are very committed to Chinese nationals both within China and internationally as well.” Inside the new Lanvin men’s boutique. “Ifthereisan effectivecrackdown oncorruption, thegift-giving culturewillbe changedinChina.” — HE JIAHONG, RENMIN UNIVERSITY Mannequin makeup works better in moderation. Long gone are the curly gold locks of his ’N Sync days. However, he might have to give the flatiron a break and go for a little more of a natural look. The perfectly imperfect oversize bow tie is humorous, but a skinnier model would definitely be cooler. The silk moire tuxedo jacket shows he’s trying a bit too hard, but the shawl lapel brings it down a notch.After all, it IS the Grammys. A little too precious perhaps, but we’re just splitting hairs. It’s pretty fabulous. The jacket fits him well; however, men with very narrow frames benefit from shorter silhouettes, and Timberlake would look less stuffy with a cropped blazer. The pants fit him perfectly, and the cummerbund is subtle but nonetheless present. PHOTOBYSTEVEGRANITZ/WIREIMAGE The black-and-white loafers take the overall look into costume territory. Picture it: Cotton Club, 1920, jazz hands. The only thing missing is the straw bowler. February 14, 2013 ADVERTISEMENT Men’sWeekMW10 WWD THURSDAY,FEBRUARY14,2013 LanvinMen’sStore ChinaCrackdownCouldHitMen’s byCASEYHALL SHANGHAI — With incoming President Xi Jinping repeatedly flaggingacrackdownoncorruption and conspicuous consumption as top priorities for his government, China watchers are concerned the resultmaybeahitforamen’smar- ket traditionally buoyed by the cul- turalpracticeof“giftgiving.” A new “frugal working style” rule on civil servants also official- ly went into effect last October, banning those paid from the pub- lic purse from throwing lavish banquets, buying expensive cars and accepting luxurious gifts. Giftgivingandbriberyareboth favoredgiftforpolitically,economi- callyandsocially—andsometimes all three — powerful men in China and,inrecentyears,Beijing’sregu- lar Party Congresses have become a parade of straight-faced suits sportingRolex,Omega,Cartierand PatekPhilippetimepieces. “The first watches were brought to China by French missionaries in the17thcenturyandwereoriginal- ly a gift to emperors and so on. So theloveaffairbetweenwatchesand Chinaandtherelationshipbetween men in China and the culture of gifting have developed in tandem,” David Sadigh, chief executive of- ficer of Digital Luxury Group, told WWD. The group recently released will be watches and jewelry, other things — from wine and spirits, yachts, cars, private jets —willcontinuetogrowatasta- blerate,”Lusaid. Brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta have already invested heavily intherisingpersonalconsump- tion of Chinese men on the lookout for stylish substance over excess bling by expanding theirproductrangesandsetting up specialty gents stores in the GreaterChinaregion. “I can say that for Ferragamo, the men’s catego- ries [in China] are significantly important,”saidMicheleNorsa, InsidethenewLanvin men’sboutique.
- 9. Fashion Week Report K A R E N C H I A N G
- 10. • Short tuxedo suit, a feathered chubby jacket and leopard prints that harkened back to the famous disco’s banquettes • The accessories picked up on the playful motifs via enamel charms on necklaces and pins and a black satin sandal with a tuxedo “collar” at the ankle • Even a pair of sunglasses formed an open pair of lips in homage to the disco era • It was all about the eighties at Kate Spade New York's Fall 2013 presentation. It looked like a set for Sex and the City reboot The Carrie Diaries, which takes place in 1984 • Taxi-inspired heels, sparkly lip sunglasses, and a sweatshirt featuring a sprinkle donut…hot pink ruled, and old-school taxicabs served as props • Kate Spade New York is fashion with a quirk —and spun it into a full-blown world of glamour with a sense of humor • Kate Spade’s 80s inspiration shown through the use of bright color and patterns • Clever use of accessories, with simple suit outfits, collar ankle shoes, lips sunglasses, and bright yellow “taxi” clutch grabs the attention • Bold use of colors, even with solid colors Kate Spade is still able to make the distinctive contrast. Kate Spade still has ways to make the outfit stands out Friday, February 8, 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G
- 11. Friday, February 8, 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G • There were party frocks in pop colors, easy day pieces like ripped denim and quilted leather • Some fun rounded-shoulder tops that winked at the space suits she had in mind when designing this collection • Her girl is a rock ’n’ roll tomboy at heart… bomber jacket-track pant combo in leather and burnout plaid • Layers of silky plaid, distressed denim, and quilted leather created a sexy tomboy vibe— particularly when paired with some of the holographic pointy heels and handbags • The clear standout, however, was outerwear • The finale look, a persimmon-colored sheath with sculpted shoulders worn by Ruby Aldridge, also earned high marks and seemed like a directional step forward • Feminine tomboy looks, subtle reference of her “space” inspiration blended with a futuristic look • Minkoff used a lot of leather;, great use of different fabrics on same piece, such as leather sleeves with knits • Strong outerwear that has a lot of character
- 12. Friday, February 8, 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G • Miller's imagination has a sartorial range from band jackets to riffs on tuxedo dressing • Raiding her boyfriend’s closet can afford a girl a pretty good wardrobe — if she pilfers selectively and adds her own sexy touches • Commercial against cool quite well… assortment of knits and pretty florals, which added a touch of softness to the mostly mannish fare • A leather-trimmed tuxedo jacket and motorcycle jacket with a front panel of ponyskin were both sharply done • V-neck black cocktail dress of layered georgette was a flat-out winner • Miller made fine use of the same print in a soft silk gown with trench coat lapels …terrific lean suit of patchwork denim and black jacquard • Miller incorporated many suit jackets in her Fall collection, giving it a more masculine look • Beautiful patterns that are made into a trench coat as well as a well tailored dress • City girl with a tom boy look added with twist of sass
- 13. Monday, February 11 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G • Clothes radiated Karan’s sexy, body-centric allure that has become increasingly artful over the years • Time and again she draped, twisted and slashed her beloved jerseys to perfection in fabulous dresses • Donna also spliced wool and sheer jerseys into gowns, sometimes adding a high-drama cape or shearling cowl • Capes are trending big-time, and Donna did all kinds: asymmetrical and sweeping in jersey, built into a jacket in double-face neoprene, to the floor for evening • Opaque hosiery was another Karan innovation that we take for granted. Wrap skirts that flashed a hint of thigh were a reminder that she did them first • The designer's trick here was to tap into her DNA without feeling retro. • The draping of the fabric were phenomenal, as well as asymmetrical cuts. • Model’s hair were all pulled back, giving our full attention to the clothes • Striking round shoulder jackets gave the whole look a more tough look
- 14. Monday, February 11 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G • Polished side of the retro genre with simple, covered-up dresses and tailored separates that highlighted the responsible side…She’s grown- up and gotten a job • Ruddy color palette — shown here in shades of orange, red and blue as well as some graphic, colorfully clashing prints • Jacobs’ men was an element of Jacobs grunge in a plaid car coat and rumpled sweater, countered by some shots of fancy, like a vivid red overcoat and crocodile embossed belts • Marc by Marc Jacobs was always Marc's vehicle for a kind of low-key collegiate funk, and on that level, it's usually been a sterling success • A bit more wattage in the hair and makeup, a bit more sex in the clothes • If the prints, proportions, and satiny sheen echoed Roxy Music fans refracting the forties through a seventies glam lens, that too felt just about right • The big blowout hair on models resembled the 70s retro era • Jacobs uses darker palette this season, for example dark red, brown, deep green, and blue • A lot of high waist skirt that are paired with collared shirts, resembles professionalism
- 15. Monday, February 11 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G • Hints of a forties heroine in mind, Carolina Herrera designed a collection about glamour and gumption • Dresses and gowns with high keyhole necklines had defined shoulders and teeny belted waists that highlighted the graceful movement of the fluid crepe skirts • Developing her own prints is a source of great pleasure and pride for Herrera. This time they were based on flowers, specifically dahlias and urchins • Herrera's collections don't often dovetail with the reigning trends of the season but they're fully realized enough to create their own realities • Victory-roll coif and her wasp-waisted dresses and full skirts, she was a kind of vixenish moll • Even with a heavy rain shower, she filled the Lincoln Center theater venue… required the full symphonic talents of the London Contemporary Orchestra • Herrera’s gowns flowed beautifully, almost lively looking. • Middle parted, sleek pulled back with two twists on each side coordinated with her 40s theme • The floral patterns were such a big statement in Herrera’s Fall 2013 collection
- 16. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G • Provided a lovely study on luxurious fabrics, volume and silhouettes, referencing several couture concepts • Main silhouette was the egg shape…layered constructions of multiple pieces…featuring deep armholes with low, inset pockets • Couture touches were also demonstrated via Japanese influences, namely intricate origami cuts and a gathered kimono dress with a focus on volume in the back • Calling her collection an exploration of classic dressmaking in sculptural silhouettes… • Wang can't resist a bit of fur, and her black fox cape, fastened at the neckline with a studded leather strap over a jeweled T-shirt dress, had charm • Photos don't do justice to the iridescence of a youthful pink sequined and beaded V-neck dress • Multiple looks from the collection emphasized on the egg shape on the waist • Patterns were beautiful. Especially the yellow on purple • The mix of different pattern silhouettes gave black a fun exciting look
- 17. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G • Burch took her moody colors from Klimt’s work and focused on the blending of textures and patterns • Find a full wardrobe’s wealth of clothes, from sexy sheaths to dresses with waisted bodices • Pretty, interesting and wearable, three characteristics that added up to one very smart collection • Gustav Klimt painted some of the most rapturous works… inspired that was suffused with a gilded sense of romance • Jewelry, accessories, and eyewear are rapidly becoming cornerstones of her empire, and the ornateness of her inspirations gave her ample excuse to pile them on • Art Nouveau florals, scarab prints, and dragonfly motifs stoked that fairy-tale flame • Burch played with color, patterns, and textures • Accessories were a breath of fresh air. From beetle necklace, wing shape sunglasses to shoes in resemblance of bugs. • There were no boring outfits, each look has something interesting added to it
- 18. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G • While the collection was outerwear-heavy, there were some lady-killer dresses in splash-art prints and versions in leather and wool combos • Designer continued on that same aesthetic, but sprinkled military references throughout • Demonstrated that Tahari has a recharged engine as he looks to build on his creative and commercial power base • Set out to evoke a Siberian winter covering an urban landscape with his Fall presentation, which featured architectural fabric installations by Gisela Stromeyer that gave the impression of sweeping glaciers and arctic tundra • The set enhanced the collection, which brimmed with impressive outerwear • Detectable military influence in menswear items like double-breasted peacoat and leather cargo jackets, which were paired with slim, tailored trousers • Great outerwear collection, especially the neckline on the women coats. The funnel neck shape and adds volume. • Tahari’s menswear looks are sophisticated and well polished. • The collection is a military with a twist of futuristic look
- 19. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G • Gilles Mendel worked luxe furs, trapunto- stitched leathers and liquid satin and velvet panne gowns into his fall lineup • Citing German artist Gerhard Richter as an inspiration, Mendel worked in an earthy palette of burgundy, copper and moss with pops of red and royal blue • The cozy mink intarsia pullovers and black grooved mink coat, shown belted and over a blouse with a high white ermine collar, looked best • There's no point going to a J. Mendel show if you're queasy about fur • He really outdid himself with his laser-cut minks, in particular the trim black coat sliced in a pattern so subtle, it had to be touched to be believed • There was a recurring biker theme here, which Mendel cannily translated for his super- upscale clientele • Mendel known for his fur creation, he did not disappoint this year. Beautifully made fur coats, you can already know what it feels like just by looking • Even when it is not a fur piece, Mendel still finds ways to incorporate fur. For example, accessories and fur cuffs that goes with gowns • Mendel also created gorgeous drape gowns in the Fall collection
- 20. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG • She loved the graphic aesthetic of Godard’s films — particularly his set designs, the use of red and blue, black and white and even his fonts • Over the top as this Sui collection was, it was colorful and playful, with some fun pieces that are sure to please • Faux fur jackets and coats added volume and texture to some of the Sixties-esque striped and printed frocks • Sui is probably contemporary fashion's most lovable archaeologist, but simple historicism can turn on a dime into a leaden nostalgia-fest • Mash a pell-mell overload of colors, textures, patterns, and accessories into a coherent whole • Skirt, waistcoat, and jacket that were actually a trompe l'oeil one-piece that zipped up the back, just like in the olden days when the all-in-one was a cost- effective fashion solution for cash-strapped go-girls • Vibrant, primary colors were used a lot in her collection. Big contrast of colors. • Patterns and textures were also a big theme. As we can see the patterns on model matches the socks. • Sui portrayed quirky, fun, and youthfulness through this collection
- 21. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG • Merger of rampant athleticism and luxury coats on Kors’ fall runway • He binged on the sporty and the polished with blaring colors, cobalt blue and “taxicab” yellow shown against slick black in exaggerated proportions that varied between performance and ladylike • Kors toughened up his men’s wear with camo prints and black leather • Many of the tailored pieces seemed built for speed with rounded shoulders and aerodynamic double-face construction… Goggles added to that feeling • Plenty of urban warriors at the show would kill for his charcoal gray wool melton overcoat and the pantsuit shown underneath it • Kors' big idea for after dark, a fitted minidress with a peplum overskirt that extended all the way to the floor in back • The goggles added more futuristic, matrix look • Kors mostly used yellow, blue, and black. Blue and Yellow pops up a lot in contrast to black • Camouflage added more of a masculine look. It is also a smart idea to use it on fur coats.
- 22. Thursday, February 14 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG • Though most were black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory toppe • Lauren broke up the mannish influence with lovely fluid dresses in deep-toned velvets — wine, blue, purple • Cases in point: a divine beaded jersey with plunging neckline and a midnight column with jeweled yoke that channeled one of Lauren’s favorite ladies, Audrey Hepburn • Lauren took us on a romantic voyage with naval-inspired pieces, vaguely Russian-feeling velvets and tapestry embroideries, and dramatic eveningwear • Extending the sailor theme into evening, a fitted fisherman sweater and to-the-floor tiered black skirt in taffeta and organza—a modern mix of day and night • Closed with a group of jewel-tone shirred taffeta gowns made all the more grand by the fur hats the models wore • Hint of Russian influence when fur hats were worn with the gowns in the end • There were also sailor influences; subtle bows around the neck, marine symbol on a long dress • Many high waist trousers; beautifully tailored pieces
- 23. Thursday, February 14 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG • Roy took ornate details from 17th- and 18th-century art and applied them to the clothes in a variety of ways • Some of it looked rich, but at times Roy could have used a little restraint • White knit sweater shown with a chic paisley like jacquard pencil skirt, and a chevron and embroidered bomber jacket — were her best • Digital runway show rather than a formal presentation • A chambord-colored bomber jacket with spiky beads at the shoulders and metallic jacquard panels, which was paired with a brocade velour pencil skirt, illustrated the mix of materials here • There were a few eclectic ensembles that felt a bit too busy, but those could usually be broken down into their individual pieces, which were very wearable for the most part • The patterns – damask design somewhat reflected a French royalty look • Roy uses statement belts in her darker color pieces • Each piece is very wearable in a daily life
- 24. Thursday, February 14 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG • Perhaps the most overtly glamorous collection Jacobs has ever done • First allowing the audience to see everything only in blacks, grays and an otherworldly sepia…The light then changed to something resembling normal, revealing a gorgeous palette of neutrals and soft colors • Jacobs opted for traditional materials of the most luxe sort: double-faced cashmeres and alpacas; refined silks ample fur — beaver, fox, mink • Cable-knit sweaters, tailored blazers and vests, silk pajamas, fox chubbies, scads of high- waisted briefs—all familiar from Jacobs' oeuvre • In a New York season strong on real-life clothes, the straightforwardness of that approach resonated • There were terrific coats here for days, as well as neat little office-bound sweater and pencil skirt sets. For after-dark, Jacobs layered on those sequins • Jacobs did not shy away from furs this season. Pairing it with sequence dresses, and as a coat • Jacobs also used softer colors – blues, deep green, and burgandy • The fur scarfs were unique, they looked like real animal wrapped around the models
- 25. Five Trends (Fall 2013) K A R E N C H I A N G
- 26. Metallic Shine
- 27. Asymmetrical
- 28. Modern Military
- 29. Leather
- 30. Camel Color
- 31. Three Top Shows K A R E N C H I A N G
- 32. • Burch’s Fall 2013 collection showed inspiration from the 20s, 30s, 40s , not only was it shown in clothes, but also see a strong influence on the accessories. Clutches, shoulder bags, and sunglasses all reflected the vintage look • The collection did not shy away from bold use of prints. From Art Nouveau florals, scarab prints, to dragonfly motifs • Great thing about Burch’s collection is that it is both wearable for professional occasions and evening events. The styles are chic and flattering to almost all body types • Karan want back to her own first success – The Seven Sensations of the mid-eighties • Black stretch jersey with sheer inset at the waist, topped by a matching stretch wrap hugs the body beautifully. Also, the asymmetrical drape from one should to another and the way it flows as model walks was stunning • Karan focused on black and brown mostly throughout the collection. Which gave it an easier transition from day to night • Herrera’s models were flawlessly groomed, with their hair twisted into 1940s chignon rolls. It adds on a more cinematic quality to the whole collection • Big floral patterns are key in Herrera’s Fall 2013 collection. Dahlias and urchins prints on graceful movement gowns • After seeing so much fur on models, it is refreshing to see how Herrera use fur in her collection. I find it very interesting how she added fur on the sides of the pocket
- 33. Press Release K A R E N C H I A N G
- 35. WWD Editors List K A R E N C H I A N G