Performance garment / Sportswear design and evaluation. Presented by Dr. Hu Junyan, Research Fellow of Institute of Textile and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong on ispo china 2011 China Sports Fashion Trend Forum.

1. 2011/1/24
• Lab Introduction
实验室介绍
Content
内容
Performance garment / Sportswear design • Performance Garment design
功能服装的设计
and evaluation
• THERMAL SIMULATION
计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能
功能性运动服装的设计与性能检测
• Fabric Functional Properties Characterization
Dr. Junyan Hu Senior research fellow 织物功能面料特性检测
胡军岩 高级研究员
• Physiological influence of Functional Material
Tel: 852 27664206， Fax: 852 27731432 功能材料的生理影響
Email: tcjxhu@polyu.edu.hk
• Summary
结语
ITC, The HKPolyU
香港理工大学纺织制衣系
1. Bio‐functional Textile Research lab ITF Research Projects
生物功能纺织品研究室 创新基金资助项目
High‐Performance Sportswear
and Devices (ITP/014/08TP)
高性能運動服與裝置
Heat production within active
muscle and its transfer to skin and
sportswear
运动肌产热及其在皮肤和运动服装
间的传递
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2. 2011/1/24
Physiological Wear Trials生理测试
Physiological study of cycling wear
自行車服的生理效應研究
Competition wear HPRW
HPCW Commercial
Cooperate with Hong Kong
elite athletes Hong Kong elite athletes in HPSW
與香港精英運動員們的合作 Olympic Game 2008
日期: 09.08.2008
運動: 划艇
活動: 2008 北京奧運會
http://www.hkolympic.org/imagecatalogue/c_popup_photo_gallery/3635
Photo took on 2nd Dec, 2009 at train center (Rowing)
http://www.daylife.com/photo/08vx9cDf8OffW
EAG 2009 Hong Kong
Source: http://2009eagarchive.lcsd.gov.hk/tc/news/gallery.php?catid=160
2. Performance Garment design
功能服装的设计 Clothing system 服裝系統 Rad
iati
on
‐Requirements 消費者需求
Convection
on
ti
duc
Con
• A safe product
Thermal & Moisture
exchange
• An environmentally friendly product Clothing System
Human Body
• A sustainable product Physiological Environmental
st
Physical
P
Physical
Ph i l process
timuli
Reactions: Condition
•A comfort product •Shivering
•Voluntary
exercise Physical stimuli
•Sweating
•… Body
Decoding
stimuli
Psychological Process
Collaboration of Technology Individual Overall
and Fashion Psychological Comfort
Physiological Brain Perception
科技與時尚的結合 process Neuropsychological
Process
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3. 2011/1/24
In the aspect of thermal comfort:
Thermoregulatory 著裝過程中的熱舒適
control system -Heat losses In a neutral environment
熱平衡調節系統
During exercise, these percentages could be reversed.
The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation, George Havenith, Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of Human
Sciences, Loughborough University, LE11 3TU Source: The skin’s role in human thermoregulation and comfort P. 563
In the aspect of fitness: Psychological sensory comfort
著裝過程中的體形變化 ‐ Clothing comfort dimensions
Key stretch points on the body 著裝 舒適性的生理基礎
Tactile
Itch Prickle
Scratch Rough
my
am old
Cl C
Thermal-wet
Thermal-
Stiff Da H St
Snug Soft mp ot ick
y
Smooth
Loose
Pressure
Source: Textiles in Sports, P205
Thermal-wet comfort
Tactile comfort
熱濕舒適性 觸覺舒適性
• Sensations involving temperature and moisture
• Direct fabric‐skin mechanical interactions
sultry damp clingy
prickly scratchy itchy
clammy hot cold
sticky...
sticky rough sticky…
• Thermal receptors • Pain receptors in skin
• Transport properties of clothing
heat transfer • Fabric surface/mechanical properties
moisture transfer
air permeability…
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4. 2011/1/24
Pressure comfort International Standards for thermal comfort
壓力舒適性 clothing
有關熱舒適的一些國際標準
• ISO 7243, Hot environments — Estimation of the heat stress on working man, based on the WBGT‐index (wet bulb
globe temperature)
• The space allowance between the body and the • ISO 7726, Thermal environments — Instruments and methods for measuring physical quantities
garment • ISO 7730, Moderate thermal environments — Determination of the PMV and PPD indices and specification of the
conditions for thermal comfort
• ISO 8996, Ergonomics — Determination of metabolic heat production
• ISO 7933, Hot environments — Analytical determination and interpretation of thermal stress using calculation of
• Fabric bulk mechanical behaviours and overall fitness of required sweat rate
required sweat rate
garment • ISO 9886, Evaluation of thermal strain by physiological measurements
• ISO 9920, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Estimation of the thermal insulation and evaporative resistance
of a clothing ensemble
• The pressure receptors in skin • ISO 10551, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Assessment of the influence of the thermal environment using
subjective judgment scales
• ISO/TR 11079, Evaluation of cold environments — Determination of required clothing insulation (IREQ)
• ISO 13732 (all parts), Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Methods for the assessment of human responses to
• A number of synthetic sensations contact with surfaces
• ISO 12894, Ergonomics of the thermal environments — Medical supervision of individuals exposed to extreme hot or
loose heavy lightweight cold environments
soft stiff snug… • ISO 13731, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Vocabulary and symbols
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Cold environments and people with special • 1 met is 58.15 W/m2.
requirements • A sleeping person has a rate of 0.7 met, and
reclining awake is 0.8 met.
• Office work is 1.2 met: a mostly seated activity
• Working in cold environments but one that involves occasional moving about.
– be exposed to severe conditions • Walking slowly (0.9 m/s, or 2 mph) is 2 met,
• in the home, moderate walking (1.2 m/s or 2.7 mph) is 2.6
met, and fast walking (1.8 m/s or 4 mph) is 3.8
• during outdoor activities,
met (ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals, 2005).
• sporting activities or
• Swimming ranges from 4 to 8 met, and jogging 8
• during transportation. to 12 met (Brooks et al., 1996).
• Wind chill is commonly encountered in cold climates;
y • The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%,
The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%,
• Low temperatures with 85% of total energy released as heat
• cold stress
– climatic conditions under which the body heat exchange is just equal to or too large for
heat balance at the expense of significant and sometimes uncompensable physiological
strain (heat debt)
Metabolic rates of
different activities
不同運動條件下的新陳代謝率
ISO 11079:2007(E) Source: ISO 8996
Requirements for protection Exposure time and at different combinations of
服裝保暖要求 ambient temperature
• A method (and international standard) has been proposed that determines the required clothing
insulation (IREQ) as a function of ambient climate and activity (ISO/DIS‐11079, 2004).
Ref: ISO 11079, Metabolic rate 110WM-2
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5. 2011/1/24
Cooling power of wind Problems of in winter clothing
風速的影響 冬季服裝系統常見問題
• Insufficient thermal insulation in winter:
– chilling of the body
– Hypothermia
• frostbite, discomfort, impaired judgment, reduced capacity to work and poorer
endurance.
• especially in the hands and forearms, causes deterioration of manual sensitivity
and agility.
• harder to memorize and learn new things
• Over protection:
– Thick clothing obstruct movement.
– Heavy
– Sweating, heat stress
• Cold environment come with snow, ice and wind
Source: ISO 11079
• Insensible evaporative heat losses
– about 100 to 150 ml per day per m2 of skin surface
Sweating
出汗
The maximum sweat rate
•1liter/hour
• an unacclimatized person seldom reaches.
•2–3 liter/hour
•a well-acclimatized person
3.THERMAL SIMULATION •When evaporated,
•removes about ten times the basal body heat
计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能 production.
(Guyton and Hall, 2000).
Running Thermal physiological S-Smart软件
requirements
熱生理需求
Thermal Function
体表温度分布
Moisture Function
体表水份分布
running
Sweat Dissemination
汗液发散区域
The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation, George Havenith,
Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of Human Sciences,
Loughborough University, LE11 3TU
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6. 2011/1/24
Computer simulations for biomechanical performances Fabric important properties
計算機仿真生物力學特性
織物功能特性
• Stretch
– to ensurer clothing doesn't restrict body movement and performance.
• Moisture management
– to ensure skin stays dry, thus minimizing:
– (a) evaporation from the skin which results in rapid heat and energy loss;
– (b) friction between clothing and the body and therefore reduced irritation.
• Waterproofness and breathability
and breathability
– for protection from the elements while maintaining a comfortable personal
microclimate.
• Temperature control
– buffering against temperature swings between periods of activity and rest.
• Light weight
– to enhance performance and conserve energy as less weight is carried.
• High strength and durability
– to protect the wearer and their clothes.
Pure Cotton Moisture Management Fabric with Nano 4. Fabric Functional Properties Characterization
Technology 织物功能面料特性检测
全棉差別導水織物 ‐4.1 Evaluation of moisture transfer properties
Normal pure cotton fabric 全棉面料
9
8
Moisture management pure cotton fabric
全棉差別導水面料
Standards making
Design principle
0.20g
0 20g
Influenced by 影响因素:
•components of the water
水的成份
•water content in the fabric
面料中的含水量 36
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7. 2011/1/24
Typical moisture transfer behavior 典型織物水傳遞特征
防水/拒水织物
Water Proof / Repellent fabric
慢吸慢干织物
Slow absorbing, slow spreading and very poor moisture management
fabric
快吸慢干织物
Quick absorption and poor one-way transport Fabric
快吸快干织物
Absorbent and quick dry fabric
较好的液态水动态传递性能织物
Good absorbent moisture management fabric
很好的液态水动态传递性能织物
Excellent absorbent moisture management fabric 61#
典型織物水傳遞特征 典型織物水傳遞特征
17# 58#
4.2 Fabric Tactile 4.3 Characterization of fabric
thermal radiation properties
Comfort Tester 红外輻射特性测量
接触感觉测量
ΔT=10 ˚C
1.2
1
0.8
IR intensity(v)
0.6
0.4
0.2
t t1 tt2 t t3
0
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Time(min)
1 .2
1
tr1 tr2 tr3
0 .8
IR intensity(v)
0 .6
0 .4
0 .2
0
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
T i m e( m in )
41 42
Y Li, JY Hu, Lubos Hes, Textile Fabric Testing, US. 6,601,457 B2
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8. 2011/1/24
4.4 Characterization of fabric thermal and
Typical measurement results on the skin surface
moisture transfer properties
織物的動態熱濕傳遞特性 M easurem ents on Sk in S u rface
20 0 t1 t2 t3 t4 t5 115 0
H e a t flu x
18 0
W e ig h t 114 0
16 0
Weight change of skin model (g)
Temperature ( ℃), RH (% Heatflux W/m^2
14 0 113 0
12 0
112 0
%),
Fan, J.
Fan J and Y S Chen Measurement
Y.S. Chen,. 10 0
Science Technology, 2002. 13: p.
1115-1123. 111 0
80 RH
60 T e m p e ra tu re 110 0
40
109 0
20
0 108 0
0 500 0 100 00 150 00 200 00 25 0 00 3000 0 3 500 0
Stan, a thermal manikin at Tim e (s)
Kansas State University, is 1hr 3hr 6hr
used to measure the insulation R Hs Ts H Fs w eight
provided by cold weather
clothing.
http://www.astm.org/SNEWS/S 1. Dynamic contact process; 2. Insensitive perspiration steady state;
O_2009/f2360_so09.html
3. Dynamic sweating process; 4. Dynamic wetting process;
43 44
5. Steady wetted state; 6. Drying process
Typical measurement results on the fabric Typical measurement results on the fabric
bottom surface upper surface
Mrasurements on Fbaric Bottom Surface
Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface
105 1150
120 1150
Weight
95 Weight
1140 1140
100
85 RH
Weight change of skin model (g)
g)
1130 1130
Weight change of skin model (g
(
Temperature ( ℃) RH (5)
Temperature ( ℃), RH (%)
75 80
RH 1120
65 1120
60
55 1110
1110 Temperature
40
45 1100
Temperature
1100
35 20
1090
1090
25
0 1080
15 1080 0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000 Time (s)
Time (s) RHfu1 Tfu1 weight
45 46
RHfb1 Tfb1 weight
Effect of Phase Change Material of Energy Consumption of
Clothing Assembly
5. Physiological influence
of Functional Material Layer-4
Environment temperature: -15℃
功能材料的生理影響 Skin Environment
33 ℃ Layer-3
-15 ℃
Wear Trials
Layer-2
穿著試驗
Layer-1
Waterproof
Cotton
The Second Nonwoven
Breathable Skin temperature
Layer Polyester
Fabric
33℃ Humidity Sensor
Temperature Sensor
Structure of the clothing assembly Sensor location
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9. 2011/1/24
Bronze award at IENA 2006
35.00
the clothing assembly A
30.00 the clothing assembly C
25.00 Dew point
25.5℃
20.00
Temperature(℃)
15.00
10.00
WV_C LW_C IW_C
5.00
T
WV_A LW_A Di2 IW_A Frozen point
Di1
0.00 0℃
0.00 DL1 5.00 DL2 10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00
-5.00
-10.00
Thickness(mm)
-15.00
Comparison of temperature distributions in clothing assemblies A
(Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric without heating) • Bronze award at IENA 2006, ITPC – Intelligent Thermal Protective Clothing
and C (Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric with heating) System, 2‐5 Nov‐2006, Nuremberg, Germany
49
Correlations between OMMC and dampness
Correlations between OMMC and clammy
綜合水份管理特性與潮濕感覺間的關係
綜合水份管理特性與濕粘感覺間的關係
IR images analysis Results結果
實驗二: 紅外圖像分析 Stage one: Running at 4 miles/hr
Experimental Protocol 第一階段:以4 英里/小時速度跑步
•Warm liquid
MMF Normal arrive out MMF Normal MMF Normal
surface
• Environment 环境条件:
•No evaporation
–Temperature: 33ºC
–RH: 40%
–IR camera 红外摄像机: Nikon Laird S‐270
–Physical exercise Rate 运动强度 4miles/ hr 英里/小时
•More area of
Beginning began to sweat evaporation Heavy sweating
• Special designed T shirt (left part is knitted MMF, right part 开始 开始出汗 出大汗
is normal pure cotton knitted fabric with same structure.)
特殊设计的T恤 (左半部为针织液态水管理面料,右半部为相同结构
的全棉普通针织面料) 0 8 28
Time时间 (min分钟)
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10. 2011/1/24
Result 结果(2) Results (3)
Skin temperature distribution when take off shirt after 80 minutes rest
Stage two: Standing rest after 30 minutes running 休息80分鐘後,除下T恤後皮膚表面的溫度分佈情況
第二階段:跑步30分鐘後,立停休息
Dry & Warm
Dry & Warm
MMF Normal MMF Normal
Damp,
Damp,
Cold
Cold
75 85 Back view after 70
Back view at take off shirt
45 55 (rest) seconds
Time 时间(min分钟) 刚除下T恤 除下T恤70秒后
Summary
结语
• Collaboration of Technology and Fashion
Contact information
科技與時尚的結合 联系方法
– Clothing system design Dr. Junyan HU
– 服装系统性设计 胡军岩 博士，高级研究员
• Comfort requirement
– 舒适性的需求 Tel: 852 27664206
Fax: 852 27731432
Email: tcjxhu@polyu.edu.hk
MN104, 香港理工大学纺织制衣学系
MN104, Institute of Textiles and Clothing
Acknowledgement
致谢
We would like to thank HK Innovation Technology Commission
and HKPOLYU for the funding of this research through projects
ITS‐051‐02, ITP‐001‐07TP and ITP‐031‐08TP
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