1. The City of Alexandria, Egypt
The Building of Alexandria
The second largest city in Egypt, Alexandria, known as quot;The Pearl of the
Mediterraneanquot;, has an atmosphere that is more Mediterranean than Middle Eastern ; its
ambience and cultural heritage distance it from the rest of the country although it is
actually only 225 km. from Cairo.
Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC,
Alexandria became the capital of Graeco-Roman
Egypt, its status as a beacon of culture symbolized by
Pharos, the legendary lighthouse that was one of the
Seven Wonders of the World. The setting for the
stormy relationship between Cleopatra and Mark
Antony, Alexandria was also the center of learning in
the ancient world. But ancient Alexandria declined,
and when Napoleon landed, he found a sparsely
populated fishing village.
From the 19th century Alexandria took a new role, as
a focus for Egypt's commercial and maritime
expansion. This Alexandria has been immortalized by
writers such as E-M- Forster and Cavafy. Generations
of immigrants from Greece, Italy and the Levant
settled here and made the city synonymous with
commerce, cosmopolitanism and bohemian culture.
Alexandria is a city to explore at random. It's as important to enjoy the atmosphere as it is
to see the sights.

2. Old Alexandria
Dinocrates built the Heptastadion, the causeway between Pharos and the mainland. This
divided the harbors into the Western and Eastern. The Eastern harbor was really where
the old harbor from the Middle Ages was located.
Of modern Alexandria, the oldest section is along the causeway which links what was
once Pharos island with the mainland and includes the districts of Gumrok (the oldest
dating to about the 16th century and known as the customs district) Anfushi, and Ras el-
Tin (Cape of Figs). The latter two districts date to about the period of Mohammed Ali
(1805-49). Collectively, these districts are known to westerners as the Turkish Quarter.
They have had a number of ups and downs over the years, particularly due to the plague
during the 17th century. The area forms somewhat of a T-shape, dividing the Eastern
Harbor from the Western Harbor.
This section of Alexandria is known to us more from books then what we may actually
see in the area. Where the Pharos Lighthouse once stood, is now occupied by the Fort of
Quit Bay (1) out on the area that circles up around the top of Eastern Harbor forming the
eastern section of the top of the T. Heading south from the Fort of Quit Bay, we come to
the stunning Abu El-Abbas Mosque (2). West of this is the Anfushi Tombs (3), some of
the oldest in Alexandria and well worth a visit.
The Underwater Discoveries
Relatively new discoveries in the Eastern Harbor involve two different sites. Around
Fort Qaitbey the site has unearthed hundreds of objects, including what experts believe
are the remains of the Pharos Lighthouse, one of the ancient wonders of the world
In the south east part of the harbor archaeologists have apparently found the Royal
Quarters, including granite columns and fabulous statues, including one of Isis and a
sphinx with a head thought to be that of Cleopatra's father.
There may vary well be an underwater exhibit in the future.
Heading towards the mainland past the Abu El-Abbas Mosque and connecting with
Shari Faransa street leads to the Suq district. Just before entering the district one finds the

3. interesting little Terbana Mosque (4). In the Suq district (5), one finds Alexandria's only
surviving wakalas, which is a part of the El-Shorbagi Mosque complex founded in 1757.
This was also the area where Alexandria's Jewish community lived, but most have now
migrated to Israel. Different areas have specialized in different goods and one may find
all manner of products from jewelry to Medicinal plants (Suq El-Magharba) to Bedouin
clothing (Suq El-Libia).
Continuing down Faransa one passes Midan Tahrir (6) and the street turns into Salah
Salem, and finally connects with Al-Horreya.
However, Midan Tahrir, popularly called Manshiya, has considerable history. The areas
was once home to Diplomats and known as Place Des Consuls, but after the statue of
Mohammed Ali was placed here in 1873 the name was changed to Midan Mohammed
Ali. In 1882, it was bombarded by the British and all but destroyed. The Alexandria
Stock Exchange was once located here, and it was from the midan that Nasser announced
the nationalization of the Suez Canal.
The street named Al-Horreya (Tariq abd el-Nasser) which transverses the area from east
to west was in ancient times the Canopic Way with the Gate of the Sun at the eastern end
and the Gate of the Moon at the western end. At that time, there were probably columns
lining the road. The main north to south street, now Sharia el-Nebi Daniel, ran from the
East Harbor all the way to Lake Harbor on Lake Mariout.
Just south of the intersection of Al Horreya and el-Nebi Daniel was the site traditionally
thought to be the burial place of Alexander the Great, but that has not been located, and
may in fact be beneath the Mosque of Nebi Daniel (7) or in a nearby Greek necropolis.
The famous Alexandria Library was probably nearby. However, the only real antiquities
site that can be viewed in the area is Kom el-Dikka (8), a small Roman theater that has
been excavated. Nearby is also a bath house of the era. To the east is the Antiques
District where dealers sell antiquities, books, old weapons and furniture. Here is also the
Attarine Mosque, which was once a church dedicated to Athanasius.
Further south along the tramway is Pompey's pillar (9) and nearby the Catacombs of
Kom ash-Shuqqafa (10).
Wondering along el-Nebi Daniel are several other attrations, including the French
Cultural Center, and nearby the Eliahu Hanabi Synagague (11), which is the only active
synagogue in Alexandria and houses the combined treasures of the seven former
Alexandrian synagogues.
Back to the north on el-Nebi Daniel, next to the harbor where Ramla station is now
located at Midan Saad Zaghlul was the location of the Caesareum (12). This was a
magnificent temple begun by Cleopatra for her lover Antony and subsequently completed
by their enemy Octavian, though none of this remains.in situ. Nearby is the well known
Cecil Hotel, built in 1930, Smerset Maugham stayed here, as did Winston Churchill, and
the British Secret Service one maintained a suite for their operations.

4. Midan Saad Zaghlul (13) is the entertainment heart and nerve center of Alexandria. here,
as terminals and train stations provide a backdrop for cinemas, restaurants and night
spots. It was the setting of Lawrence Durrell's Alexandria Quartet and the famous
Alexandria coffee houses. The square is dominated by an impressive monument
dedicated to Saad Zaghlul, a former national leader.
The Greek Quarter and Bab Rosetta District
Back on Al Horreya heading east, as we pass the Graeco-Roman Museum (a notable
museum well worth a visit) we move into the Greek Quarter of Alexandria, one of the
most beautiful residential districts. The wonderful old villas include the massive
Miclavez building, which is opposite the Town Hall and nearby the Adda Complex built
in 1929. This is where the wealthy Greeks lived at the turn of the century, and the streets
are still named after the Ptolemic, Pharaonic, Abbasid and Fatimid rulers. Further east is
the Greek Orthodox patriarchate andthe Church of St. Saba.
Further east, Al Horreya opens into a beautiful green area known as the Shallalat
Gardens, which was once the fortification of Bab Rosetta. But in 1905, Alexandria
created a garden area here with waterfalls and the only Alexandria cistern which can be
viewed. This cistern is an example of those which once dotted Alexandria providing
fresh water to her inhabitants.
The Corniche
The Corniche is doted with Casinos built on stilts and rows of beach huts. The avenue
here did not always exists, for until the 20th century, the areas remained fortified by a
five mile long wall with towers which had protected the city since the 13th Century. In
the early 1900s, a strip of land with a width of about 100 years was reclaimed from the
sea, and the area became popular with beach goers. That is no longer the case, but it
remains a lively area of Alexandria.
On the western end of the Corniche near Silsila where the New Alexandria Library is
being constructed is the Shatby Tombs which are said to be the oldest in Alexandria.
Nearer the San Stefano area across the tram tracks is also the Royal Jewelry Museum.

5. The Mahmudiya Canal
A walk along the Mahmudiya Canal brings one face to face with the working class and
industrial districts of Alexandria, and is pleasant along the old paved road bordered by
the canal and sycamore trees. South of the Greek district along the canal is the
Antoniadis Gardens, which seep with history. Here, the poet Callimachus lived and
taught, and in 640 AD, Pompilius prvented the King of Syria from capturing Alexandria.
But less then a year later, Amr Ibn el-As camped here, before taking the city. The well
known Water Traffic Circle is also in the area.
Here one finds the Zoological Gardens, the small Museum of Natural History and the
Fine Arts Museum in the Moharrem Bey area, and a Rose Garden. The beautiful public
gardens extend into the surrounding area where the Antoniadis Palace is located, and
there is even a nearby Roman tomb.
El-Muntaza
Muntaza Gardens
This area along the coast about 15 miles east of Alexandrias old district along the
Corniche is where many of the modern Alexandrian hotels are located, as well as one of
the elegant heritage hotels. Khedive Abbas II built the Salamlik as a residence. Here
also is the magnificent Montaza Palace.

6. The Gates of Alexandria