This document contains production details for a piped fitted short vest designed by Azzaro for Spring 2011. It includes construction notes, initial specifications and measurements for a size small sample, and corrections to be made. The sample measurements differed slightly from the initial specs, requiring adjustments such as lengthening the front 1 inch and bringing the neck width and circumference back to specification. Production approval was given with the noted corrections.
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Azzaro Vest Tech Pack
1. Style # 502987 Sample #1
AZZARO
Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Description: Piped fitted short vest
Season: Spring 2011 Block: Bodice slopers
Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM Approval: Proceed with production.
Approved with corrections.
Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM Page 1 of 4
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS NOTES
Seams 3/8” allowance for pressed open sides, shoulders, darts, and center
backs.
¼” all piping seam allowance.
√
Labels TBD TBD
Lining 1” pleat at neckline to nothing at hem. Fully lined to edges no facings √
Darts Pressed open to within 2-3” of apex. √
Piping 3/16” wide in armholes seamed at side seam, in neckline center front
and hem seamed at side seam, and as welts for pockets.
√
Pocket Functional pockets machine tacked closed with 1” opening at each
end
√
Button & Buttonhole 24ligne four hole DTM plastic sewn on left front with horizontal
buttonholes on left front.
√
Fuse To reinforce pockets only. No fuse anywhere else in garment. Remove fuse from
center fronts.
2. Style # 502987 Sample #1
AZZARO
Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Description: Piped fitted short vest
Season: Spring 2011 Block: Bodice slopers
Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM Approval: Proceed with production.
Approved with corrections.
Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM Page 2 of 4
POM Description
Initial
Spec
Size S
1
st
Sample
meas
Diff from
spec
+/-
Change to New
Specs
1 Front HPS to longest point parallel 20 √ Increase 21
2 Length center back 17 √ 17
3 Shoulder seam drop to front 0 √ 0
4 Neck width 8 7.5 -.5 Bk to spec 8
5 Back neck drop 1.5 √ 1.5
6 Front neck drop HPS to ctr ft parallel 11 √ 11
7 Back neck total 10.5 √ Increase 11
8 Front neck total (1/2) 13.25 √ Increase 13.5
9 Cross shoulder 14 √ 14
10 Cross front 5” down from HPS 12 √ 12
11 Cross back 5” down from HPS 13 √ 13
12 Front armhole total follow curve 8.5 √ Increase 9.25
13 Back armhole total follow curve 9.5 √ Decease 9.25
14 Chest total 1” below armhole 38 37 -1 Bk to spec 38
15 Waist total 15” below HPS 30 29 -1 Bk to spec 30
16 Sweep total straight across 34 33 -1 Bk to spec 34
17 Front and back darts apex to apex 8 √ 8
18 Front and back darts at hem to hem 8 √ 8
19 Front and back darts HPS to top 10.5 √ 10.5
20 Pockets opening width 5 4.5 -.5 As sample 4.5
21 Pocket bag depth 3 3.5 +.5 As sample 3.5
22 Pockets from front piping seam 2.625 √ 2.625
23 Pockets HPS to top at darts 16 √ 16
24 HPS to top button hole parallel 12 √ 12
25 Total buttons 5 √ 5
26 Button hole spacing 2 √ 2
27 Overlap including piping 1.875 √ 1.875
28 Front hem spacing point to point 3 √ 3
ALL MEASUREMENTS ARE WITH BUTTONS CLOSED
HPS IS NATURAL FOLD OF GARMENT
PARALLEL MEANS VERTICAL TO THE CTR FT OR CTR BK MEASURED TO AN IMAGINARY HORIZONTAL LINE
3. Style # 502987 Sample #1
AZZARO
Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Description: Piped fitted short vest
Season: Spring 2011 Block: Bodice slopers
Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM Approval: Proceed with production.
Approved with corrections.
Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM Page 3 of 4
1) Vest is hiking forward, too close to back and far away from front,
so lift back and follow pattern corrections as diagramed below.
1) Lengthen front 1”. Bring neck width and circumference back to spec. Adjust armhole balance.
4. Style # 502987 Sample #1
AZZARO
Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Description: Piped fitted short vest
Season: Spring 2011 Block: Bodice slopers
Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM Approval: Proceed with production.
Approved with corrections.
Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM Page 4 of
4
POM Description
Tol
+/-
0 2 4 6 Size
8
10 12
1 Front HPS to longest point parallel .25 20 20.5 20.5 20.75 21 21.25 21.5
2 Length center back .25 16 16.25 16.5 16.74 17 17.25 17.5
3 Shoulder seam drop to front 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
4 Neck width .125 7 7.25 7.5 7.75 8 8.25 8.5
5 Back neck drop .125 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
6 Front neck drop HPS to ctr ft parallel .25 10.5 10.625 10.75 10.875 11 11.125 11.25
7 Back neck total .25 10 10.25 10.5 10.75 11 11.25 11.5
8 Front neck total (1/2) to front edge .25 13 13.125 13.25 13.375 13.5 13.625 13.75
9 Cross shoulder .25 13 13.25 13.5 13.75 14 14.375 14.75
10 Cross front 5” down from HPS .25 11 11.25 11.5 11.75 12 12.375 12.75
11 Cross back 5” down from HPS .25 12 12.25 12.5 12.75 13 13.375 13.75
12 Front armhole total follow curve .125 7.75 8.125 8.5 8.875 9.25 9.75 10.25
13 Back armhole total follow curve .125 7.75 8.125 8.5 8.875 9.25 9.75 10.25
14 Chest total 1” below armhole .5 34 35 36 37 38 39.5 41
15 Waist total 15” below HPS .5 26 27 28 29 30 31.5 33
16 Sweep total straight across .5 30 31 32 33 34 35.5 37
17 Front and back darts apex to apex .125 7 7.25 7.5 7.75 8 8.25 8.5
18 Front and back darts at hem to hem .125 7 7.25 7.5 7.75 8 8.25 8.5
19 Front and back darts HPS to top .125 10 10.125 10.25 10.375 10.5 10.625 10.75
20 Pockets opening width .25 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5
21 Pocket bag depth .25 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5
22 Pockets from front piping seam .125 2.625 2.625 2.625 2.625 2.625 2.625 2.625
23 Pockets HPS to top at darts .125 15 15.25 15.5 15.75 16 16.25 16.5
24 HPS to top button hole parallel .125 11.5 11.625 11.75 11.875 12 12.125 12.25
25 Total buttons 0 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
26 Button hole spacing 0 TBD TBD TBD TBD 2 TBD TBD
27 Overlap including piping 0 1.875 1.875 1.875 1.875 1.875 1.875 1.875
28 Front hem spacing point to point .125 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
ALL MEASUREMENTS ARE WITH BUTTONS CLOSED
HPS IS NATURAL FOLD OF GARMENT
5. Style # 502987 Sample #1
AZZARO
Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Description: Piped fitted short vest
Season: Spring 2011 Block: Bodice slopers
Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM Approval: Proceed with production.
Approved with corrections.
Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM Page 5 of
5
PARALLEL MEANS VERTICAL TO THE CTR FT OR CTR BK MEASURED TO AN IMAGINARY HORIZONTAL LINE