First chick ascent of the Evolution Traverse (5.9, VI). Presentation given to CU Boulder Alpine Club and at Neptune Mountaineering; includes an overview of High Sierra climbing.

1. Adventures in Evolution
Michelle Peot
March 2012
First chick ascent of the Evolution Traverse

2. The High Sierra
Mt Humphreys, Basin Mt, and Mt Tom from the Buttermilks

3. The Area
Sierra Nevada Range
• ~400 mi in length
• Predominately granite
• Most stable weather in
Aug-Sep, t-storms in Jun-Jul
but not as regular as the
Rockies
• High concentration of
quality alpine routes
between Bridgeport and
Lone Pine (~150 mi)
Map from UC Davis’ Information Center for the Environment

4. Red Dihedral on the Hulk
The Area | Bridgeport (5.10b, 12 pitches)
Incredible Hulk
photo by Luke Stefurak

5. The Area | Yosemite (Tuolumne)
N Ridge of Mt Conness (5.6)
Third Pillar of Mt Dana

6. The Area | Rock Creek/Pine Creek
N Buttress on Merriam Peak (5.10, 10 pitches)
Bear Creek Spire
photo by Jed Porter

7. N Buttress on Mt Goode (5.9,
The Area | Bishop pitches)
W Face on Cardinal Pinnacle (5.10a,
4 pitches)

8. The Area | Big Pine Palisades
Temple Crag

9. The Area | Lone Pine
N Ridge on Lone Pine Peak (5.5)
Keeler Needles & Mt Whitney

10. The Pioneers
Peter Croft Glen Dawson
Norman Clyde
Barbara Lilley
Galen Rowell
Jules Eichorn Vern Clevenger

11. Evolution Traverse

12. The Mystique
 How we got spanked on Evolution Traverse (Shay of
pullharder.org, 2007)
 “16 hours car-to-car; 22 miles; peaks reached: 0/9”
(Warren C and Dave J, 2009)
 “Cycling through 3 partners over 3 attempts…” (Ryan
H in reference to Josh G, 2011)
 “The best traverse I have done.” (Peter Croft in The
Good, The Great and the Awesome; FA on attempt #3)
 17 documented successful ascents prior to my 2011
attempt (all by men)

13. The Route
5.6
5.8
• 5.9, VI
5.9
• 10 mile approach over
Lamark Col (3,600 ft of
gain and 1,600 ft of
descent)
• 8 mile ridge traverse
over nine 13K ft peaks
• ~16 mile hike out
5.7

14. The Route | History
1966
Gordon Waddell does Spencer to Huxley.
July 1997
Peter Croft and Galen Rowell climb Mendel
to Haeckel, with Croft continuing on alone
for the last 4 peaks.
August 1998
Peter Croft and Dayle Mazzerella traverse
from 13,360 to Spencer.
June 1999
Croft returns to complete the full traverse
solo.
Source: Croft’s The Good, The Great, and the Awesome: The Top 40 High Sierra Rock Climbs

15. My Background
 Climbing
 Been climbing on/off since the mid-90s
 Since ~2006 increased focus on trad/alpine climbing
 Comfortable leading ≤ 5.10 trad
 Enjoy exposure, soloing, and mega days
 Work
 Work full-time as a data geek for a search company in
Glendale CA, but fortunate to work remotely

16. The Prep
 First (half-assed) attempt in Sep 2010
 Base camp support from Jascha
 Bailed before the Mendel summit due to (chronic) hip
flexor issues
 Major focus on the Aug 2011 attempt
 Made the decision to do the traverse alone and
unsupported
 Ton of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering, alpine soloing)
with a focus on alpine speed and endurance
 Planning & logistics (balancing weight and comfort/safety)
 PT

17. The Prep
 2011 conditions
and my dismal
ability to
forecast snow
levels
Raw data from skiiinfo.com Data from skiinfo.com
(in cm)

18. The Prep
 Surprisingly early start to
the alpine season given
the winter’s record
snowfall
N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak (5.5), 30 May

19. The Prep
 Spent much time on Temple Crag
to avoid sloggy conditions
Moon Goddess Arete (5.8)

20. The Prep
Sun Ribbon (5.10a) | Galey | Sill traverse

21. The Prep
 Last minute Evolution
crux recon and bivy
gear stash 1.5 weeks
prior

22. The Approach
Darwin and Mendel from Lamark Col

23. The Approach
Darwin Canyon 2010 Darwin Canyon 2011

24. The Approach Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches
Base camp at Darwin Benches

25. The Climb
Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches
13,360 from Darwin Benches

26. The Climb
Looking into Evolution Basin from
the ridgeline on 13,360
Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches

27. The Climb
Self portrait en route to 13,360
Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches

28. The Climb
Mendel from the 13,360 summit (5.6)

29. The Climb
Ridge traverse to Mendel

30. The Climb
Mendel headwall (~25 ft, not 5.9)

31. The Climb
Darwin from Mendel

32. The Climb
Picket fence to Darwin (5.8)

33. The Climb
Darwin summit block

34. The Climb
Chimney section off the Darwin summit (5.9)

35. The Climb
More down-climbing off the Darwin summit

36. The Climb
Traverse to 13,332 (5.9)

37. The Climb
Golden slab (photo from recon)

38. The Climb
Bivy #1 with the evening’s
entertainment, This American Life

39. The Climb
13,332 summit

40. The Climb
Haeckel from 13,332 (class 3)

41. The Climb
Looking toward Wallace from just
below the Haeckel summit

42. The Climb
And…the wall

43. The Climb
5.6
5.8
5.9
5.7
And…the wall

44. The Climb
Emma

45. The Climb
Fiske from Wallace?

46. The Climb
Warlow from Fiske
Photo courtesy of Laura Molnar

47. The Climb
Bivy #2
Huxley from Warlow
Photo courtesy of Laura Molnar

48. The Climb
Morning light from bivy #2

49. The Climb
Huxley, the final obstacle (~5.7)

50. The Climb
The last summit!

51. The Descent
Hike back on the John
Muir Trail through
Evolution Basin

52. The Descent Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches
First real food in 2.5 days

53. Summary
~22.5 hours of climbing
over 2.1 days

54. Tips
 Go as light as you can taking into consideration your limits and
conditions.
 Be efficient at route-finding, moving quickly unroped over 4th and
easy 5th class terrain, and rope/gear management if you plan to
use them.
 Consider your water options (snow melt versus dropping down
500’ to Haeckel Col).
 Acclimate. A full day at the Darwin Benches helps significantly
especially if you are a flatlander.
 Note to self: Have your food plan perfected and make sure your
camera is fully functional.
 Have fun. It’s an amazing climb no matter how far you get.

55. Questions | Beta
 user name fossana
on summitpost and
mountainproject
 slides will be
posted on
slideshare.net
(same user name)

56. Gear List
 80’ of 7mm Mammut Pro Cord – did 1 pack haul, 1 pack lower and 1 rap
 3 nuts (sm, med, lg) – didn’t use
 ATC guide / locker
 Camp XLH 95 harness
 40’ 9/16” tubular webbing – way too much
 Lightest pair of climbing shoes I could find at the Gear Exchange
 Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10 degree bag)
 2L MSR Dromedary bag (for melting snow) + 100 oz hydration bladder
 Black Diamond Speed 40 pack
 Montrail CTC approach shoes
 Camp Corsa ice axe (left this at Lamark Col on the hike in)
 Cheap closed cell foam pad cut down to ½ length and minimal width*
 Rab Storm Bivi* * Cached on recon

57. More Eye Candy | TRs
 Josh Garrison’s video covering 3 attempts:
http://vimeo.com/15555114
 Patituccis’ blog:
http://dolomitesport.com/2009/12/climbing-the-
sierra-nevadas-evolution-traverse/
 Alan Cattabriga’s TR: http://neice.com/2010/09/the-
evolution-traverse/
 My TR: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Evolution-
Traverse-How-I-Owe-it-All-to-an-
Apple/t11143n.html

58. Many Thanks To
the following people for beta, encouragement, company on
recons/training climbs, and tolerating my obsessive
ramblings:
Alan C, Vic L, Peter C, Mike C, Ben H, Jason L, Ian C-B, Tricia L, Matt S,
Tai D, Em H, Todd T, Joe L, Lisa R, Wills Y, Jascha L, Joan P, Miguel F,
Sandra S, Janel C, Jessie M, Yoshiko and Jim M, Nathan W, Laura M
and especially Emma

59. Many Thanks To
especially the Limits episode (Apr 2010)