Wines and terroir of Monferrato, one of the best wine region in Italy

1. Discovering Monferrato with the Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato A great wine “terroir” of the world

2. Between twenty and two million years ago, huge tectonic pressures caused the rising of the Alps range. Today’s Piemonte, Northwest of Italy, is surrounded by high mountains, on the North (Swiss border), West (French border) and part of the South. Under the same huge pressures, the southern and western parts of the bottom of the sea, filling up today’s Padanian plain, rose, forming a system of hills named Piedmontese tertiary basin. These hills, whose light-coloured soils are essentially sea sediments, are one of the world’s best wine “terroir”. The Alps give Piemonte a protection against the “westerlies” (lowest rainfall in Northern Italy). Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

3. In Piemonte the vineyards are only on the hills’ slopes, except for the north side, which is usually covered by the forest, or planted with hazelnut trees. The mountain is too cold, and the plain is too rich, to make really good wine. Vignale Monferrato, site of the ‘Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato” Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

5. 110 Km North: Monte Rosa 4600 m Frassinello maurizio gily Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved Treville

6. 90 Km South: the Mediterranean (warm) sea mitigates the Southern Piedmont’s climate Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

7. Maurizio Gily “Terroir 2006” University of California, Davis, March 2006 Grignolino d'Asti, G. del Monferrato Casalese Grignolino Monferrato Freisa Freisa Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato Ruché Barbera d'Asti, Barbera del Monferrato Barbera MAIN D.O.C. MAIN GRAPEVINES January-July January-July dryest month 275 inches 700 mm Annual Rainfall 32 °F 0 °C Average January Temperature 77 °F 24 °C Average July Temperature 4200 °F 2200-2400 °C DD Huglin 3100-3500 F° 1700-1900 °C DD Winkler American standard European standard CLIMATIC DATA soft limestone from sea sediments bedrock silty-clay-calcareous, light grey, 1-3 m deep main soils hills, vineyards on the slopes, excluding North face morphology: 300-1000 feet 100-300 m slm altitude 62 m 100 km Distance from the Alps Range 62 m 90 km distance from the sea (warm sea) 45° N 45° N latitude American standard Alessandria and (partially) Asti Province Piemonte (Piedmont) Region Italy, North-West Country Terroir Monferrato

9. No “monoculture” in Monferrato: meadows, fields and a lot of forests share the territory with the vineyards, providing a lovely landscape, and a great reserve of “biodiversity”. (In the centre, the hill of Maria’s Holy Mountain of Crea, with its world known Sanctuary) Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

10. Monferrato has been an independent country, between the Xth and the XVIIth centuries, ruled by the Marquises of Monferrato, till it became part of the Savoy kingdom. Many castles and old settlements witness this ancient history. The main tower of the Camino castle dates back to XIth century. Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

11. Monferrato has quite a low annual rainfall for Northern Italy, about 700 mm (27 inches), mostly during fall and spring. The summer is usually hot and dry. But some storms, even hailstorms, can sometimes occur. There is no irrigation in the vineyards. Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

12. Fall is maybe the nicest season in Monferrato, with clear light and colours. And it is the season to find and taste the white truffles, this being maybe the world’s main production area. The cult of good food is a substantial element of Asti and Monferrato traditions. Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

13. The earth rests, under a misty sheet, waiting for a new season and a new crop. Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved Ottiglio (Moleto)

14. The winter in Monferrato is quite mild for the latitude, the snow is uncommon, and usually not long lasting. This is the reason why, for many centuries, the shepherds from the Alps have been bringing their sheeps to graze in Monferrato in winter. Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved Olivola

15. The areas where the snow melts soonest are the best for winegrowing, perfect examples being the “sulìn” in Monferrato. Vignale Monferrato Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

16. Barbera Grignolino Ruché Freisa Monferrato: the Grapes Malvasia di Casorzo Cortese Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

17. Barbera The Barbera grape is a late ripening one, being harvested between the end of September and mid October. The vineyard has to be controlled through canopy management and bunch thinning, to avoid possible overcropping in some years. The bunch has medium size; the berry is slightly oval shaped, very rich in sugar, rich in colour, and has a medium or low quantity of tannic compounds. The wine is fresh, dry, fruity (cherry, plum), with good acidity and no abstringent tannins. Ideal “food wine”, it matches very well with steaks, cured mead, medium aged cheeses, pasta with meat sauce, salt stored fish and many other foods. The most classic marriage: the “Bagna Cauda” Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

18. The Southern Piedmont wine district is shared in different “terroir”: the Langhe, home of Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera d’Alba wines, in the South-West; the Asti and Monferrato hills, in the centre; Gavi and Tortona hills in the South-East, the Monferrato Casalese in the North-Eas t. The southern hills are higher, the northern ones lower and warmer. Here, in the northern and central hills, the main vine variety is Barbera, which needs much heat for a good ripening. Vignale Monferrato, site of the ‘Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato” Courtesy of Gribaudo editore Map from the book “ Piemonte Vigneto tutto DOC” A.A. V.V. 2002

19. Source: 2003. Source:Consorzio di Tutela Vini d’Asti e del Monferrato and

20. Bagna Cauda - Olive oil and anchovies came from the Ligurian shores to Piemonte along the “salt trail”, crossing the Appennino mountains, and met the garlic to make-up the most traditional sauce for fall vegetables. Bagna cauda should be eaten very hot (the pot is continuously heated by a small fire), drinking young Barbera, and sharing it with many friends. Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

21. Ruché The Ruchè grape is quite early ripening, being harvested about 10th of september. The vineyard has to be controlled through canopy management and bunch thinning, to avoid possible overcropping in some years. The bunch has medium to big size; the berry is very rich in sugar, medium in colour and tannic compounds, rich in terpyneol flavours (rose, violet, spices), pleasant to eat. The wine is usually dry, while other aromatic grapes in Piedmont are typically processed to have a sweet one (Moscato, Brachetto, red Malvasia of Casorzo) Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

22. Another side of Piemonte: The “little DOC” wines Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato: small production, big personality Courtesy of Gribaudo editore Map from the book “ Piemonte Vigneto tutto DOC” A.A. V.V. 2002 Vignale Monferrato, site of the ‘Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato”

23. Grignolino The anarchic of Monferrato Don’t call it “pink”, “rosé” or “blush”: it’s a light red wine. It is a red wine, while it is fermented with the skins and has a good tannic structure. The color is a light, bright red, without any violet nuance. The nose is not very strong at the first impression, but quickly increases into the glass. Some typical characters: raspberry, wild rose berry, strawberry leaf, spices (white pepper, clove), almond. Every Grignolino has, anyway, its own profile, depending on the place where it is grown. In the mouth it looks much more “strong” than expected form the eye and from the nose, mostly at a final impression. The tannic fibre is tight, and the wine has often a good length, with hints of pepper and spices, and a good balance between sweetness and astringency. Luigi Veronelli, the greatest Italian wine-writer of the XXth century, defined it “anarchic”, the same definition he used to give for himself and his anti-conformist attitude: this explains very well how much he loved this wine. The main growing area of this indigenous grape is Northern Monferrato, on the left shore of the Tanaro river, with two DOC: Grignolino d’Asti (Western) and Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese (Eastern). The Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato in Vignale is located in the heart of the second area. Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

24. Grignolino Courtesy of Gribaudo editore From the book “ Piemonte Vigneto tutto DOC” A.A. V.V. 2002 Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved Vignale Monferrato, site of the ‘Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato”

25. Freisa a grape to discover The growers plant Freisa in the medium part of the slopes, where exposure to light is still high but more water can be found in summer than at the top of the hills: in fact this grape is susceptible to drought and mould-resistant. The berry is small and the skin is thick, so that a big amount of colour and tannins are available in the must. DNA genetic studies have revealed that the grape is a close relative of the Nebbiolo (the grape used to make Barolo, Barbaresco, Ghemme etc.). In the Monferrato district Freisa is traditionally blended with other grapes during winemaking, but there is also a tradition for single grape wines, which are very intense, fruity and slightly astringent, due to the high content of tannins. The “vivace” (slightly sparkling) version is as traditional as the still version. The first is particularly recommended for serving with cured meat and fresh bread for an afternoon “merenda” (snack). DOC: Monferrato Freisa, Freisa d’Asti Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

26. Malvasia di Casorzo Many Italian grapevines, both white and red, are called “Malvasia” (Malvasia di Candia, del Chianti, di Brindisi etc.) The name is supposed to come from the Greek port of Monemvasia, site for an ancient Venetian fortress and for a trading market between the West and the East. Tha Malvasia di Casorzo is a black berry grape, medium-late ripening, aromatic, usually processed with the double fermentation technique to have a sweat, aromatic, lightly sparkling wine, to serve chill, terrific to match with cakes and cookies. The “passito” (raisin wine) is the most precious version of the Malvasia wines: the grapes are dried on a straw bed to gain high sugar and aromatic concentration. Then the grapes are pressed and put to ferment for a long time, at low temperature, until the yeasts’ activity naturally stops due to the high alcohol degree. The DOC Malvasia di Casorzo is grown in a small area, at the border between the Provinces of Alessandria and Asti, into the town limits of Casorzo, Grana, Grazzano Badoglio (Asti), Vignale Monferrato, Altavilla, Ottiglio, Olivola (Alessandria). Maurizio Gily for Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato all rights reserved

27. Another side of Piemonte: The “little DOC” wines The two red Malvasia: sweat and delightful wines Courtesy of Gribaudo editore Map from the book “ Piemonte Vigneto tutto DOC” A.A. V.V. 2002 Vignale Monferrato, site of the ‘Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato”

28. THE OLD SCIENCE OF GRAPPA Good fruit gives good Grappa. The noble grape spirit has been distilled for centuries in Monferrato. Nowadays it is still made by few, little, familiar companies and it deserves to be considered among the best Grappa in Italy and in the world.

29. Enoteca Regionale del Monferrato Palazzo Callori Piazza del Popolo 12 [email_address] www.enotecadelmonferrato.it +39 0142 933243 The main site of our Enoteca Regionale is in Vignale Monferrato, Palazzo Callori, now closed for works. We hope to welcome you very sooon up there. The wine shop in Casale will be still working as well.