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Chapter 13 – Oceans and Beaches   How do oceans shape our lives?
I. Distribution of Water on Earth  ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
 
Fresh or salt water?
B. The major oceans of the world are the  Pacific  (51.6% of ocean water); the  Atlantic  (23.6 %) and the  Indian  Ocean (21.2%). Therefore other oceans and seas only account for 3.6% of water on Earth.
 
II. Properties of Ocean Water  ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
2. The most abundant salt is  sodium chloride , NaCl. A liter of seawater will contain about 2.5 teaspoons of this common salt.  3. The second most abundant salt is  magnesium chloride .
4. Other elements found in ocean water include sulfur, calcium, potassium, bromine, carbon, strontium, silicon, fluorine, aluminum, phosphorous, and iodine.
[object Object]
1. Depth- the greater supply of gases at the ocean’s surface is due to the  penetration of sunlight . This allows photosynthesis to take place which ensures a large  supply of oxygen .
2. Temperature of ocean water-  warm water holds less dissolved gas  than cold water. This means that denser cold water sinks, carrying oxygen to deep areas of the oceans while allowing animals to live there.
a. The warmest layer of the ocean is the  surface zone  where water is mixed by waves and currents.
b. The  thermocline  is the zone below the surface where rapid  temperature change occurs .
c. The  coldest layer  is the  deep zone  with temperatures of around 5 degrees Celsius.
III. Motions of the Ocean  ,[object Object]
B. Most waves are formed by  winds blowing  over the surface of the ocean.  This transmits energy to the water, forcing it to ripple.
Wind causes waves!!!!
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
 
 
3. Wavelength- the  horizontal distance  between the crests or troughs of two consecutive waves  4. Wave height- a  vertical distance  between a wave’s crest and the next trough
5. Wave period- measures the  size of the wave in time
E. Ocean waves caused by earthquakes are called  tsunamis .
F. Water below  the  surface moves in  streams called  currents .  These currents are caused by two factors: wind patterns and water density .
1. Surface currents are caused by  wind patterns  and usually have a depth of several hundred meters. These currents affect  climate and weather  patterns by warming or cooling the air above the water
Surface currents affect weather!!!
a. The  Gulf Stream  is known as a long-distance surface current that carries  warm water  from the southern tip of Florida along the eastern coast of the US.
 
b. Currents in the Northern Hemisphere move  clockwise  (currents correspond to the wind circulation in each hemisphere), while currents in the Southern Hemisphere move  counterclockwise
 
 
i. The Coriolis effect (the  apparent shift  in fluids or objects due to the  rotation  of the Earth) explains ocean current patterns curving in each hemisphere.
ii. Ex. You are sitting on a carousel tossing a ball to someone on the edge of the carousel. After tossing the ball, the target person has moved on and the ball passes behind them. From the target person’s perspective, the ball appears to have curved away. This explains the  Coriolis effect .
c. Surface currents that travel over short distances are called  short-distance currents . These currents are usually found at shorelines.
i. Currents moving  parallel to the shore  are called longshore currents. As these currents move they carry large amounts of sand creating  sand bars .
 
ii. A  rip current  occurs when a current cuts an opening in a sand bar and the currents return to the ocean in a powerful, narrow flow (a type of undertow).
Rip current
Rip current
Spotting rip currents
 
[object Object],[object Object]
[object Object],[object Object]
b. Deep currents usually flow in  opposite directions  from surface currents.
 
c. The movement of deep ocean currents to the surface is called  upwelling . This occurs when deep  cold currents  are  forced upward  by the ocean floor bringing nutrient rich foodstuffs to the surface. This produces rich fishing grounds in areas where upwelling occurs. (Ex. Peru, Chile)
 
d. El Niño (Spanish for "the Christ Child") refers to a  warm ocean current  that typically appears around Christmas-time and lasts for several months, but may persist into May or June. The warm current  influences storm patterns  around the globe.
Effects of El nino
i. Upwelling ceases to occur when winds die down. Without the nutrient rich waters, many fish and sea creatures die, devastating the fishing industry. ii. Without upwelling, the water becomes much warmer  changing weather patterns globally .
 
Review Questions 1. How are waves created?   wind
2. Explain how the Coriolis effect influences surface currents.   Currents in the Northern Hemisphere turn clockwise. Currents in the Southern Hemisphere turn counter clockwise.
3. Why is upwelling important  to aquatic life?   Because colder water holds more dissolved gases and nutrients. When the cold water comes up, the fish come with it.
IV. Shoreline Formation  ,[object Object]
 
Bermuda
Horseshoe Bay, Bermuda
 
 
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Alaskan Shoreline
Sea Cliffs
2.  Caves - hollowed out portions of sea cliffs
3. Sea Stacks- columns of  resistant rocks  left standing
4. Sand Bars- an underwater ridge of sand created by  longshore currents
 
[object Object],[object Object]
b. The foreshore is the area that is  exposed at low tide . It may have a beach scarp (vertical slope produced by wave erosion) and a  low tide terrace  (broad flat area exposed at low tide).
c. The  offshore region  extends from the low tide mark seaward beyond the wave breaking zone. It has a  shoreface  (slope below the low tide mark) and a  longshore trough  (a depression parallel to the beach between the low tide mark and wave breaking zone).
6. Barrier Islands- (nature’s way of straightening out the shore)  elongated bodies of sand  bounded on either end by inlets allowing salt and fresh water to flow into and out of the estuary behind the island. (Ex.  Outer Banks )
 
Review Questions   ,[object Object],Waves Storms Tides Changing sea levels currents
2. What natural process must occur in order to create our beaches?   Wind, waves and currents
3. Hypothesize how you think North Carolina’s barrier islands (Outer Banks) were created over time.   Surface currents
V. The North Carolina’s Barrier Islands- The Outer Banks  ,[object Object],[object Object]
a. A  straight coast  forms during lower sea levels.  b. Rising sea levels  flood valleys  on land and creates a sinuous coast.  c. Sand eroded from preexisting ridges forms spits ( sandbar connected to a curving shoreline )  d. The spits are breached by storms,  separating the islands  from the mainland.
 
2. A large  supply of sand - 15,000 years ago the sea level was much lower, waves and winds formed beach ridges (dunes) on the coast of North Carolina. Sea levels rose and broke through the dune forming a  lagoon , and the dune is now isolated as an island.
3. A gently  sloping coastal plain - North Carolina’s coast slopes at .2 feet per mile. The underlying geology of North Carolina consists of sediments dating of  Quaternary age  (1.8 million years ago to  present) with older sediments buried underneath. The deposition of these sediments created a gentle slope conducive to forming barrier islands.
4. Sufficient  wave energy  to move sand.   Kitty Hawk
B. After barrier islands form, the islands then begin to  migrate landward  in response to rising sea levels (currently 1 foot per century).
 
1. Humans are  increasing the rate  of barrier island migration through erosion by building structures to prevent property damage. One example is  seawalls . Seawalls steepen the slope of the beach, which increases wave size. This eventually leads to the loss of beaches. (Four states, including North Carolina in 1985, now prohibit  shoreline armoring )
Sea Walls
2. The Cape Hatteras lighthouse is  evidence that shorelines change  over time and will continue to do so.
 
[object Object],[object Object]
Hurricane Fran damage
2. Pollution- Improper  waste disposal , closing of fishing grounds due to pollution, and drinking water contamination after storms are just a few of the problems in coastal North Carolina.
 
3. Environmental Destruction- The beaches of North Carolina are being destroyed due to  overdevelopment .
VI. The Truths of the Shoreline  ,[object Object],[object Object]
C. Shoreline erosion does not create problems for the beach, it simply  changes its position .  D.  Human activities  such as building seawalls, dune construction, building construction, channel dredging, reduce the beaches’ sand supply. This  increases the rate  of shoreline retreat.
 
E. Shoreline engineering  protects the interests of few people , who are causing the erosion to begin with, and is a  high cost  to state and federal governments.
F. “You can have buildings, or you can have beaches; in the long run you cannot have both”. The ultimate truth is to  avoid the hazards  and  evaluate the level of risk  if choosing to build on a barrier island or coastline.
Review Questions  1. Explain the four factors that create barrier islands.   -rising sea level -large supply of sand -gently sloping coastal plain -sufficient wave energy to move sand
2. How are humans increasing the rate of barrier island migration?   -building sea walls -dune construction -building construction -channel dredging
3. How would you advise a business  executive that wants to develop a  large chain of hotels on the coastline  of the Outer Banks?   Do not build on the Outer Banks!

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Chapter 13 – oceans and beaches

  • 1. Chapter 13 – Oceans and Beaches How do oceans shape our lives?
  • 2.
  • 3.  
  • 4. Fresh or salt water?
  • 5. B. The major oceans of the world are the Pacific (51.6% of ocean water); the Atlantic (23.6 %) and the Indian Ocean (21.2%). Therefore other oceans and seas only account for 3.6% of water on Earth.
  • 6.  
  • 7.
  • 8. 2. The most abundant salt is sodium chloride , NaCl. A liter of seawater will contain about 2.5 teaspoons of this common salt. 3. The second most abundant salt is magnesium chloride .
  • 9. 4. Other elements found in ocean water include sulfur, calcium, potassium, bromine, carbon, strontium, silicon, fluorine, aluminum, phosphorous, and iodine.
  • 10.
  • 11. 1. Depth- the greater supply of gases at the ocean’s surface is due to the penetration of sunlight . This allows photosynthesis to take place which ensures a large supply of oxygen .
  • 12. 2. Temperature of ocean water- warm water holds less dissolved gas than cold water. This means that denser cold water sinks, carrying oxygen to deep areas of the oceans while allowing animals to live there.
  • 13. a. The warmest layer of the ocean is the surface zone where water is mixed by waves and currents.
  • 14. b. The thermocline is the zone below the surface where rapid temperature change occurs .
  • 15. c. The coldest layer is the deep zone with temperatures of around 5 degrees Celsius.
  • 16.
  • 17. B. Most waves are formed by winds blowing over the surface of the ocean. This transmits energy to the water, forcing it to ripple.
  • 19.
  • 20.
  • 21.  
  • 22.  
  • 23. 3. Wavelength- the horizontal distance between the crests or troughs of two consecutive waves 4. Wave height- a vertical distance between a wave’s crest and the next trough
  • 24. 5. Wave period- measures the size of the wave in time
  • 25. E. Ocean waves caused by earthquakes are called tsunamis .
  • 26. F. Water below the surface moves in streams called currents . These currents are caused by two factors: wind patterns and water density .
  • 27. 1. Surface currents are caused by wind patterns and usually have a depth of several hundred meters. These currents affect climate and weather patterns by warming or cooling the air above the water
  • 29. a. The Gulf Stream is known as a long-distance surface current that carries warm water from the southern tip of Florida along the eastern coast of the US.
  • 30.  
  • 31. b. Currents in the Northern Hemisphere move clockwise (currents correspond to the wind circulation in each hemisphere), while currents in the Southern Hemisphere move counterclockwise
  • 32.  
  • 33.  
  • 34. i. The Coriolis effect (the apparent shift in fluids or objects due to the rotation of the Earth) explains ocean current patterns curving in each hemisphere.
  • 35. ii. Ex. You are sitting on a carousel tossing a ball to someone on the edge of the carousel. After tossing the ball, the target person has moved on and the ball passes behind them. From the target person’s perspective, the ball appears to have curved away. This explains the Coriolis effect .
  • 36. c. Surface currents that travel over short distances are called short-distance currents . These currents are usually found at shorelines.
  • 37. i. Currents moving parallel to the shore are called longshore currents. As these currents move they carry large amounts of sand creating sand bars .
  • 38.  
  • 39. ii. A rip current occurs when a current cuts an opening in a sand bar and the currents return to the ocean in a powerful, narrow flow (a type of undertow).
  • 43.  
  • 44.
  • 45.
  • 46. b. Deep currents usually flow in opposite directions from surface currents.
  • 47.  
  • 48. c. The movement of deep ocean currents to the surface is called upwelling . This occurs when deep cold currents are forced upward by the ocean floor bringing nutrient rich foodstuffs to the surface. This produces rich fishing grounds in areas where upwelling occurs. (Ex. Peru, Chile)
  • 49.  
  • 50. d. El Niño (Spanish for "the Christ Child") refers to a warm ocean current that typically appears around Christmas-time and lasts for several months, but may persist into May or June. The warm current influences storm patterns around the globe.
  • 52. i. Upwelling ceases to occur when winds die down. Without the nutrient rich waters, many fish and sea creatures die, devastating the fishing industry. ii. Without upwelling, the water becomes much warmer changing weather patterns globally .
  • 53.  
  • 54. Review Questions 1. How are waves created? wind
  • 55. 2. Explain how the Coriolis effect influences surface currents. Currents in the Northern Hemisphere turn clockwise. Currents in the Southern Hemisphere turn counter clockwise.
  • 56. 3. Why is upwelling important to aquatic life? Because colder water holds more dissolved gases and nutrients. When the cold water comes up, the fish come with it.
  • 57.
  • 58.  
  • 61.  
  • 62.  
  • 63.
  • 66. 2. Caves - hollowed out portions of sea cliffs
  • 67. 3. Sea Stacks- columns of resistant rocks left standing
  • 68. 4. Sand Bars- an underwater ridge of sand created by longshore currents
  • 69.  
  • 70.
  • 71. b. The foreshore is the area that is exposed at low tide . It may have a beach scarp (vertical slope produced by wave erosion) and a low tide terrace (broad flat area exposed at low tide).
  • 72. c. The offshore region extends from the low tide mark seaward beyond the wave breaking zone. It has a shoreface (slope below the low tide mark) and a longshore trough (a depression parallel to the beach between the low tide mark and wave breaking zone).
  • 73. 6. Barrier Islands- (nature’s way of straightening out the shore) elongated bodies of sand bounded on either end by inlets allowing salt and fresh water to flow into and out of the estuary behind the island. (Ex. Outer Banks )
  • 74.  
  • 75.
  • 76. 2. What natural process must occur in order to create our beaches? Wind, waves and currents
  • 77. 3. Hypothesize how you think North Carolina’s barrier islands (Outer Banks) were created over time. Surface currents
  • 78.
  • 79. a. A straight coast forms during lower sea levels. b. Rising sea levels flood valleys on land and creates a sinuous coast. c. Sand eroded from preexisting ridges forms spits ( sandbar connected to a curving shoreline ) d. The spits are breached by storms, separating the islands from the mainland.
  • 80.  
  • 81. 2. A large supply of sand - 15,000 years ago the sea level was much lower, waves and winds formed beach ridges (dunes) on the coast of North Carolina. Sea levels rose and broke through the dune forming a lagoon , and the dune is now isolated as an island.
  • 82. 3. A gently sloping coastal plain - North Carolina’s coast slopes at .2 feet per mile. The underlying geology of North Carolina consists of sediments dating of Quaternary age (1.8 million years ago to present) with older sediments buried underneath. The deposition of these sediments created a gentle slope conducive to forming barrier islands.
  • 83. 4. Sufficient wave energy to move sand. Kitty Hawk
  • 84. B. After barrier islands form, the islands then begin to migrate landward in response to rising sea levels (currently 1 foot per century).
  • 85.  
  • 86. 1. Humans are increasing the rate of barrier island migration through erosion by building structures to prevent property damage. One example is seawalls . Seawalls steepen the slope of the beach, which increases wave size. This eventually leads to the loss of beaches. (Four states, including North Carolina in 1985, now prohibit shoreline armoring )
  • 88. 2. The Cape Hatteras lighthouse is evidence that shorelines change over time and will continue to do so.
  • 89.  
  • 90.
  • 92. 2. Pollution- Improper waste disposal , closing of fishing grounds due to pollution, and drinking water contamination after storms are just a few of the problems in coastal North Carolina.
  • 93.  
  • 94. 3. Environmental Destruction- The beaches of North Carolina are being destroyed due to overdevelopment .
  • 95.
  • 96. C. Shoreline erosion does not create problems for the beach, it simply changes its position . D. Human activities such as building seawalls, dune construction, building construction, channel dredging, reduce the beaches’ sand supply. This increases the rate of shoreline retreat.
  • 97.  
  • 98. E. Shoreline engineering protects the interests of few people , who are causing the erosion to begin with, and is a high cost to state and federal governments.
  • 99. F. “You can have buildings, or you can have beaches; in the long run you cannot have both”. The ultimate truth is to avoid the hazards and evaluate the level of risk if choosing to build on a barrier island or coastline.
  • 100. Review Questions 1. Explain the four factors that create barrier islands. -rising sea level -large supply of sand -gently sloping coastal plain -sufficient wave energy to move sand
  • 101. 2. How are humans increasing the rate of barrier island migration? -building sea walls -dune construction -building construction -channel dredging
  • 102. 3. How would you advise a business executive that wants to develop a large chain of hotels on the coastline of the Outer Banks? Do not build on the Outer Banks!