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Why are we what we eat?
Sociocultural dimensions of
           food
       PhD. Mabel Gracia Arnaiz
Food
“Nature”/ “Culture”

Main human activity:
– time, work and resources
– Daily
– Complex phenomenon


Relationships
USES ATTRIBUTED TO FOOD

(Baas, Wakefield y Kolasa 1979)
1. To satisfy hunger and nourish the body.
2. To initiate and maintain personal and business relations.
3. To demonstrate the nature and extent of social relations.
4. To provide a focus for community activities.
5. To express love and affection.
6. To express individuality.
7. To assert group differences.
8. To demonstrate belonging to a group.
9. To face psychological and emotional stress.
10. To show off social status.
11. To reward or punish someone.
12. To reinforce self-esteem and gain recognition.
13. To wield political and economic power.
14. To prevent, diagnose and treat physical illnesses.
15. To prevent, diagnose and treat mental illnesses.
16. To symbolize emotional experiences.
17. To show piety or devotion.
18. To demonstrate security.
19. To express moral sentiments.
20. To demonstrate wealth.
To feed or nourish?

 Food = Nutrition
 

      SURPRISE RESTAURANT
          Holiday Menu (20 €)
                 838.4 g water
                 97.0 g protein
            165.9 g carbohydrate
       96.6 g fat (41.7 g saturated fat)
              307.8 mg calcium
            998.0 mg phosphorous
                  15 mg iron
               2600 mg sodium
             2600 mg potassium
    4042 International Units of vitamin A
               0.8 mg thiamine
               1.1 mg riboflavin
                22.7 mg niacin
              53.5 mg vitamin C
                   2.5 g fibre
 

    SURPRISE RESTAURANT
         Holidays only


          MENU 20 €


          Prawn cocktail
      Entrecote with potatoes
      Bread rolls with butter
       Salad with vinaigrette
             Apple tart
               Wine
              Coffee
Food is not just about the nutrients

Foods have social
meanings depending
on context




Food/Medicine?
How does culture affect food
          behaviours?

 By establishing:

 Regularity
 Specificity


               in food practices
   through social, culinary and dietary norms
Formal/informal meals




      Place
      Menu structure
      Type of food
      Guests
      Duration
      Manners
Ways of being at the “table”
 

      “DAFT AS A BRUSH ”
           RESTAURANT
     FOOD FOR NEOPHILES
                      
                      
     BREAKFAST (6 o’clock)
              Glass of cava
        Confit of African monkey
                      
       LUNCH (11 o’clock)
          Tropical fruit cocktail
         Sautéed lentil sandwich
          Mixed grill of insects
                      
        DINNER (4o’clock)
       Coffee and tea fruit salad
    Carpaccio of snake with fine herbs
 
DIETARY PRESCRIPTIONS IN VARIOUS WORLD RELIGIONS

  FOOD         BUDDHISM   CHRISTIANITY       HINDUISM   ISLAM     JUDAISM    SIKHISM

Eggs             some          yes             some       yes       yes        yes
Milk,                                          curd      curd       curd
    yoghurt

Cheese            yes          yes              no        yes       yes        yes
Chicken           no       Some people         some      Halal     Kosher       -
Lamb              no        abstain during     some      Halal     Kosher       -
Beef              no             Lent            no      Halal     Kosher      -no
Pork              no                            rare      No        no

Fish             some          yes               -       Halal       -        some
Shell fish        no           yes               -       Halal      no        some
Animal fat        no           yes             some      Halal     Kosher     some
Alcohol           no          most              no        No        yes        yes
Tea, coffee       yes          yes             yes        yes       yes        No
Pulse             yes          yes             yes        yes       yes        yes
Vegetables        yes          yes             yes        yes       yes        yes
Fruits            yes          yes             yes        yes       yes        yes
Fasting          some         some             some     Ramadan    Yom
                                                                    Kippur
Not everything which is biologically
     edible is culturally edible

No culture regards every type of food
available to it as edible

Not all the foods considered edible by one
culture are considered edible by other
cultures or groups
Insects: widespread “taboo” in the
          West (M. Harris)
100 g termites:   100 g hamburger:
 610 kcal         245 kcal
38 g proteins     21 g protein
46 g lipids
                  17 g lipids
New Food or UFO’s?
  (Fischler 1995)
Food choices

 2,1 1,9 0,4



13,7



               52,8                     Health
29,1                  Mindividual preferences
                                        Prices
                              Caloric Content
                        Convenience, ready…
                                     Ns/Nc
La Boqueria Market
    (Barcelona)

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Why we are what we eat? Sociocultural dimensions of food

  • 1. Why are we what we eat? Sociocultural dimensions of food PhD. Mabel Gracia Arnaiz
  • 2. Food “Nature”/ “Culture” Main human activity: – time, work and resources – Daily – Complex phenomenon Relationships
  • 3. USES ATTRIBUTED TO FOOD (Baas, Wakefield y Kolasa 1979) 1. To satisfy hunger and nourish the body. 2. To initiate and maintain personal and business relations. 3. To demonstrate the nature and extent of social relations. 4. To provide a focus for community activities. 5. To express love and affection. 6. To express individuality. 7. To assert group differences. 8. To demonstrate belonging to a group. 9. To face psychological and emotional stress. 10. To show off social status. 11. To reward or punish someone. 12. To reinforce self-esteem and gain recognition. 13. To wield political and economic power. 14. To prevent, diagnose and treat physical illnesses. 15. To prevent, diagnose and treat mental illnesses. 16. To symbolize emotional experiences. 17. To show piety or devotion. 18. To demonstrate security. 19. To express moral sentiments. 20. To demonstrate wealth.
  • 4. To feed or nourish? Food = Nutrition
  • 5.   SURPRISE RESTAURANT Holiday Menu (20 €) 838.4 g water 97.0 g protein 165.9 g carbohydrate 96.6 g fat (41.7 g saturated fat) 307.8 mg calcium 998.0 mg phosphorous 15 mg iron 2600 mg sodium 2600 mg potassium 4042 International Units of vitamin A 0.8 mg thiamine 1.1 mg riboflavin 22.7 mg niacin 53.5 mg vitamin C 2.5 g fibre
  • 6.   SURPRISE RESTAURANT Holidays only MENU 20 € Prawn cocktail Entrecote with potatoes Bread rolls with butter Salad with vinaigrette Apple tart Wine Coffee
  • 7. Food is not just about the nutrients Foods have social meanings depending on context Food/Medicine?
  • 8. How does culture affect food behaviours? By establishing:  Regularity  Specificity in food practices through social, culinary and dietary norms
  • 9. Formal/informal meals Place Menu structure Type of food Guests Duration Manners
  • 10. Ways of being at the “table”
  • 11.   “DAFT AS A BRUSH ” RESTAURANT FOOD FOR NEOPHILES     BREAKFAST (6 o’clock) Glass of cava Confit of African monkey   LUNCH (11 o’clock) Tropical fruit cocktail Sautéed lentil sandwich Mixed grill of insects   DINNER (4o’clock) Coffee and tea fruit salad Carpaccio of snake with fine herbs  
  • 12. DIETARY PRESCRIPTIONS IN VARIOUS WORLD RELIGIONS FOOD BUDDHISM CHRISTIANITY HINDUISM ISLAM JUDAISM SIKHISM Eggs some yes some yes yes yes Milk, curd curd curd yoghurt Cheese yes yes no yes yes yes Chicken no Some people some Halal Kosher - Lamb no abstain during some Halal Kosher - Beef no Lent no Halal Kosher -no Pork no rare No no Fish some yes - Halal - some Shell fish no yes - Halal no some Animal fat no yes some Halal Kosher some Alcohol no most no No yes yes Tea, coffee yes yes yes yes yes No Pulse yes yes yes yes yes yes Vegetables yes yes yes yes yes yes Fruits yes yes yes yes yes yes Fasting some some some Ramadan Yom Kippur
  • 13. Not everything which is biologically edible is culturally edible No culture regards every type of food available to it as edible Not all the foods considered edible by one culture are considered edible by other cultures or groups
  • 14. Insects: widespread “taboo” in the West (M. Harris) 100 g termites: 100 g hamburger: 610 kcal 245 kcal 38 g proteins 21 g protein 46 g lipids 17 g lipids
  • 15.
  • 16. New Food or UFO’s? (Fischler 1995)
  • 17. Food choices 2,1 1,9 0,4 13,7 52,8 Health 29,1 Mindividual preferences Prices Caloric Content Convenience, ready… Ns/Nc
  • 18. La Boqueria Market (Barcelona)

Notas do Editor

  1. Figura nº 1: FUNCIONES SOCIOCULTURALES DE LA ALIMENTACION 1. Satisfacer el hambre y nutrir el cuerpo. 2. Iniciar y mantener relaciones personales y de nego­cios. 3. Demostrar la naturaleza y extensión de las relaciones sociales. 4. Proporcionar un foco para las actividades comunita­rias. 5. Expresar amor y cariño. 6. Expresar individualidad. 7. Proclamar la distintividad de un grupo. 8. Demostrar la pertenencia a un grupo. 9. Hacer frente a stress psicológicos o emocionales. 10. Significar estatus social. 11. Recompensas o castigos. 12. Reforzar el autoestima y ganar reconocimiento. 13. Ejercer poder político y económico. 14. Prevenir, diagnosticar y tratar enfermedades físicas. 15. Prevenir, diagnosticar y tratar enfermedades menta­les. 16. Simbolizar experiencias emocionales. 17. Manifestar piedad o devoción. 18. Representar seguridad. 19. Expresar sentimientos morales. 20. Significar riqueza. En: Baas, Wakefield y Kolasa, 1979.
  2. ¿Por qué no sn solo nutrentes, qué significa que tienen/y se usan por sus significados sociales? . Langosta/sardina: puede ser menos nutritiva, pero la langosta tiene otros atributos aparte de su sabor: en qué ocasiones (en una boda es dificil encontrar sardinas) . ¿Qué decide cuando es apropiado y para quienes unas u otras?. A las sardinas les han quitado las grasas Omegas y se las han puesto a la leche. Total: esta leche es ahora más cara. ¿Por qué no nos comemos directamente las sardinas?. Su olor, hay que limpiarlas, tienen espinas…? Alimentos funcionales: ¿son alimentos, son medicamentos?. Los yogures actimel, que son?. Los a.f son aquellos alimentos que son elaborados no sólo por sus características nutricionales sino también para cumplir una función específica como puede ser el mejorar la salud y reducir el riesgo de contraer enfermedades. Para ello se les agregan componentes biológicamente activos, como minerales, vitaminas, ácidos grasos, fibra alimenticia o antioxidantes, etc. Probióticos (microrganismos vivos, tipo bacteria), prebiotico (normalmente hidratos de carbono, no digestibles). Lactobacilus casei, es una bacteria que lleva el Actimel, pero también quesos y lácteos fermentados que comemos a dario. El consumo de estos productos yes que está documentado que es bueno para la salud.
  3. ¿Cómo actúa la cultura? La cultura actúa estableciendo regularidad y especificidad. El niño: mama, ¿qué hay hoy para comer? La madre: paella, ensalada y de postre crema catalana Le FAMILIAR, le puede o no gustar pero lo comprende. Un primero un segundo un postres. Un día festivo… Esta misma respuesta puede dejar frío a un niño tailandés. Este pequeño diálogo que cualquier niño intercambia con su madre a diario nos refleja algunas características más básicas del modelo alimentario. No comemos alimentos, ojo. Comemos platos, es decir, alimentos preparados cocinados, combinados a su vez con otros alimentos y con otros platos y dentro de comidas más o menos organizadas/ordenadas. Regularidad: La conducta alimentaria diaria de la mayoría de la gente es predecible dependiendo de los patrones culturales (actividades, horarios, profesiones, relaciones familiares, responsabilidades). Podemos preveer la conducta alimentaria de un niño en edad escolar; de una ama de casa; de un deportista. Tal regularidad es la consecuencia de la existencia de un orden normativo en el proceso de socialización : un conjunto de guías institucionalizadas acerca de las conductas más o menos apropiadas dentro de contextos sociales particulares (Warde y Martens 2000). ENCULTURACIÓN De hecho, la alimentación es el primer aprendizaje social del ser humano, como el lenguaje. ¿Cómo?: desde el biberón, la cuchara, babero, trona (todo son artefactos propios de nuestra cultura material). La gente muestra actitudes hacia la comida que han sido aprendidas de otras personas dentro de sus redes sociales, ya sea en la familia, entre iguales, en el grupo étnico, en la clase social, en la comunidad local o en la nación.
  4. ¿Qué cambia entree una y otra=?--- Además de todo esto: la ropa, otro medio de comunicación
  5. En la mesa/en el suelo… la comida y la comensalidad se resuelve de diversas formas Una comida entre mullahs (cura, arabes) y hombres de influencia en el campo de Saranan (Paquistán) Esquimales del ártico de Canada (Kuujjuag) comiéndose un higado de foca crudo
  6. RESTAURANTE SIN PIES NI CABEZA COCINA PARA NEOFILOS   DESAYUNO (6 HORAS): Copa de cava Helado de carne de mono africano   COMIDA (11 HORAS): Cóctel de frutas tropicales Bocadillo de lentejas estofadas Parrillada variada de insectos   CENA (16 HORAS): Macedonia de café y de té Carpaccio de serpiente a las finas hierbas    
  7. La respuesta es obvia: no todo lo que biológicamente es comestible lo es culturalmente. La variedad de las sustancias que son consumidas en tanto que alimentos por los diferentes pueblos del mundo es extraordinaria . Si se inventariase el número de culturas consumidoras de unos u otros alimentos de origen animal y/o vegetal, veríamos miles de sustancias comestibles (por tamaño, desde termitas a las ballenas) y que todas las culturas “ eligen ” : aceptando o rechazando alimentos que son comestibles. Por qué los bosquimanos Kung se comen las nueces de mongongo y no los cacahuetes? Son fuentes de energía… pero unas hay más, son más faciles de coger, mejores nutricionalmente… En general, las cocinas son un reflejo de las adaptaciones al medio y los recursos disponibles. El ejemplo más obvio era la cocina japonesa tradicional b) que un número considerable de sustancias incomibles para algunas de ellas resultan de gran aprecio entre otras . Por ejemplo, entre diversos pueblos asiáticos se comen la carne de perro, mientras que los europeos la rechazamos c) Si además este inventario lo hiciéramos desde una perspectiva diacrónica , descubríamos que productos incomibles para nuestros antepasados por considerarlos alimentos para sus animales, como las patatas lo fueron para los cerdos, ahora son imprescindibles en un buen número de platos de nuestras comidas cotidianas. Las algarrobas, la chicoria… Por tanto, lo comestible también cambia (quien nos iba a decir que jovenes iban a comer pescado crudo?, ceviches...). .
  8. . Hormigas se comen entre diversos grupos de población en Colombia, Tailandia, Sudáfrica, los aborígenes australianos y numerosas tribus amerindias; del mismo modo, . Las abejas y las avispas son comestibles en China, Birmania, Malasia, Sri Lanka y en algunas áreas de Japón. Frente a estas preferencias, se levanta el tabú generalizado en las culturas industrializadas donde comer insectos es algo impensable: son animales abominables, cuya presencia hay que evitar y, si es posible, erradicar. ¿Cómo presentarlos, pues, en un plato a modo de vianda?. Observados desde una perspectiva sensorial, nutricional y toxicológica nada apunta a evitar su consumo, tal como plantea Harris (1989), pero ¿cómo poner en práctica la idea dada por some estudiosos de convertir a los insectos en comestibles para acabar con los problemas de falta de proteínas en algunas partes del mundo si causan reacciones sobre su aspecto, textura y olor tan dispares?.
  9. Esnobismo, negocio… inmigrantes????