1. do it guide
An Outdoor Room
To make the garden structure featured on the cover
of this issue, follow these instructions.
WRiteR: Bill lahay. illustRAtOR: Roxanne lemoine. PROject designeR: Jeni hilpipRe-wRight.
PAge 34
¸ tools ¸ materials
® rule
Tape ® wood stakes (18–24 inches long)
12
Hammer
® ® cardboard tube concrete forms, 12-
Four
Posthole digger (if placing
® inch diameter,
concrete piers) 4 feet long*
Builder’s level (4 feet or longer)
® ® bags ready-mix concrete,
20
Trenching shovel
® 80 pounds each*
Carpenter’s pencil
® ® metal post base brackets
Four
Angle square or combination square
® with fasteners*
Portable circular saw
® 1 cubic yard crushed rock or
®
Table saw
® pea gravel
Wood chisel (1 inch or larger)
® ® pieces 1×4 (nominal) cedar,
12
® with 3⁄16- and 3⁄8 -inch bits
Drill 8 feet long (for window frames)
® bit, 12 inches long,
Drill Three pieces 4×4 (nominal) pressure-treated
®
⁄ -inch diameter
1
4 pine, 8 feet long (for part A)
Ratchet driver with 9 16-inch socket
® ⁄ ® pieces 4×4 (nominal) cedar,
22
12-inch power miter saw
® 8 feet long (for parts B–L)
® 2 Phillips screwdriver or
No. ® pieces 2×4 (nominal) cedar,
Two
driver bit 8 feet long (for part M)
® stepladders (8 feet)
Two ® barn sash windows (22×29 inches) or
Two
Paintbrushes
® equivalent (optional)
Skill level: Beginning woodworker Three barn sash windows (22×41 inches) or
®
Time to complete: One weekend equivalent (optional)
(allow additional time if you include ® package 5d (1 3⁄ -inch) galvanized
One 4
concrete footings) finishing nails
Estimated cost: $1,200 wall so the sill plates would nest flush with the Thirty 3⁄8×6-inch lag screws
®
(with footings) ground. Use the trench digger to dig the trenches with flat washers
several inches deeper and wider than necessary, ® package No. 10×3-inch
One
then add crushed rock or pea gravel to the deck screws
® sheets corrugated galvanized steel roof
10
trenches to improve drainage. Let the concrete
get going footings cure for at least three days.
panels, 25×72 inches
® galvanized cap/ridge flashing, 8 feet
One
First, select a site that is reasonably level, and drive
long
a wood stake at each corner (each wall measures Build the ® package washer-head screws (for
One
93 inches). To ensure a square footprint, adjust the Window Frames metal roof panels)
stakes until the diagonals measure the same length Although the window assemblies are installed later ® package No. 6×1 5⁄8 -inch
One
(131⁄2 inches). If you live in
1
in the process, building them first lets you space deck screws
a windy area or your local code requires concrete the beams and collar ties correctly. The finished 1 gallon exterior-grade clear wood sealer (or
®
footings for a structure this size, dig holes for four window frame sizes will depend on the window semitransparent stain)
concrete piers under the side walls as shown on sash you buy. For the frame stock, use the circular
page 94. Level the cardboard forms in the holes, fill saw to cut 1×4 cedar boards to the required *Optional: recommended for high-wind areas
or where required by code
with mixed concrete, and insert a post base lengths and attach them to the sash as shown in
bracket in each while the concrete is wet. For our the Window Assembly Detail illustration, above.
project, we also trenched for the sides and back Then use a table saw to rip the extra 1×4 stock into
DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006 93

2. do it guide
An Outdoor Room
Preformed/galvanized 1x4" cedar Wood frame
cap/ridge flashing barn sash
Preformed/galvanized 5d finishing nails
cap/ridge flashing
Corrugated/galvanized K
roofing panels
(6' long)
Corrugated/galvanized G F K
roofing panels J #6 x 15/8"
3/8" lag screws long)
(6'
GH F deck screw
6" long K
M L J
3/8" lag screws
6" long J K H
H
M L
J L H F
F
E D F
D L
F 3" deck screws
E D
B D 3/4 x 3/4"
3" deck screws
F B cedar molding
B D
D F 45 bevelo
45o WINDOW ASSEMBLY DETAIL
Window frame of on part M B
1 x 4" cedar M D
o
D 45 bevel
1 1 /2 "
M 45o
Window frame of B on part M
M
ROOF1ASSEMBLY
x 4" cedar
11/2" 3M2"
1/
B END VIEW DETAIL
ROOF ASSEMBLY 1 3 /2"
END VIEW DETAIL
No. 10 x 3" deck screws to
secure half-lap corner joints
⁄ -inch molding strips and attach them as shown,
3
4
No. 10 x 3" deck screws to
secure half-lap corner joints using 5d finishing nails. Set aside for now.
D D
D D D
D cut and Assemble
C
the Wall Frames
C D D Start by cutting the sill plates (A) to length;
Half-laps
C because they rest directly on
C Half-laps the ground, these timbers should be pressure-
B C lag screw3/8"
6" long at treated pine rated for ground-contact use. Then
B corner posts
3/8" lag screwcut the other frame parts (B–D) to length. For the
C
B 6" long at top wall plates (D), mark the half-lap notches as
B C corner posts
shown in the Half-Lap Joint Detail illustration,
B
B C opposite, and use the portable circular saw to
Window frames B C
make multiple cuts in the notch portion. Break
(1x4" cedar)
C away the waste material with a hammer, then use a
Window frames B
chisel to pare the surface flat and smooth. Note
A (1x4" cedar)
C A that these end notches are the same for all four
A top plates, but are oriented differently—set the
C A front and rear plates with the notch faceup and
Post-base bracket the side plates with the notch facedown.
3/8" lag screw A embedded
6" long at corners in concrete pier On each corner post (B), mark the locations for
Post-base bracket
3/8" lag screw A embedded the sill plates (A) and crossbeams (C). The vertical
6" long at corners in concrete pier distance between the two beams should equal the
BASE / WALL ASSEMBLIES
Concrete pier footing height of the taller window assemblies. On a flat
BASENote: Concrete piers optional.
/ WALL ASSEMBLIES (12" diameter) surface, such as a patio or driveway, fit together
Concrete pier footing parts A–C of one side wall. Use the 12-inch-long
(12" diameter)
Note: Concrete piers optional.
94 DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006

3. [a] [B] [C] [D] [E] [F] [G] [H] [J] [K] [L] [M]
PaRTS Sill Plates Corner
Posts
Cross-
beams
Top Wall
Plates
Center
Beam
Rafters Ridge
Beam
Purlins Collar
Ties
Ridge
Blocks
Roof
Braces
Beveled
Roof
Plates
THICKnESS 3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
1⁄2
1
WIDTH 3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2 1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
3⁄2
1
LEnGTH 86 84 86 93 86 67 86 86 25* 10* 60 86
QUanTITY 3 4 6 4 1 4 1 2 2 2 2 2
Notes: All dimensions are in inches. *Lengths may vary; cut to fit.
HALF-LAP JOINT DETAIL
work in stages so you can test-fit the pieces as you edge, with a slight overhang and with its top edge
Make multiple saw cuts 13/4" deep
go. Start by attaching the center beam (e) to the slightly below the peak of the ridge beam. Attach
front and rear top plates (D) with lag screws, just as with washer-head screws. Overlap the next panel
13 / 4 " you connected the wall crossbeams to the posts. at least one full ridge, and fasten. Repeat to install
Step 1
31/2" Next, use the power miter saw to cut four the remaining roof panels, then attach the cap
rafters (F) with 45-degree miters at the base ends; flashing along the ridge.
leave the opposite ends To install the window assemblies, simply fit
Step 2 a few inches longer than listed. With a helper, set them into place and drive 1 5⁄8 -inch deck screws
Break away two rafters up at the front gable end, with their through the 1×4 stock into the crossbeams, top
waste pieces
angled ends placed at the corners and the upper wall plates, and/or collar ties. ß
Pare smooth with chisel ends slightly offset so they bypass each other.
Step 3
Mark each rafter end along the upper edge of the
opposing rafter, then square-cut those ends and
cut half-lap notches as shown, similar to the top
drill bit to drill a ⁄ -inch hole through
1
4 wall plate ends. Refit and attach with 3-inch deck
the posts and into the beam/sill ends at each joint screws to the top wall plate corners as shown.
as shown. Then switch to a Repeat for the rear rafters. With all the rafters in
⁄8 -inch bit and enlarge only the holes in the posts.
3
place, fit and attach the ridge beam (g) and the
Tap a ⁄8×6-inch lag screw
3
purlins (H) with lag screws as shown.
into each hole until it seats firmly, then tighten Using the smaller window assemblies for
with a ratchet driver. (Use this technique on the spacing, cut and fit the collar ties (J) into the end
roof frame joints, too.) gables as shown; attach with 3-inch deck screws.
Set some scrap blocks of wood across the wall Then cut and attach the two ridge blocks (K) the
trenches, then recruit a helper to lift the first wall same way. Finally, cut a 45-degree miter on one
assembly into position; use ground stakes and end of each roof brace (L) and do a test fit to mark
temporary braces to stabilize it. Repeat for the the lower end; cut to fit, and attach with lag screws
second wall section, then use more lag screws to as shown.
connect the two walls with the rear sill and beams, With the frame complete, apply a coat of
creating a U-shape structure. With at least two exterior-grade clear sealer or semitransparent stain
helpers, remove the scrap blocks from the if desired.
trenches and lower the frame assembly into place;
check for level, plumb, and square, and attach the install Roofing
sills to the post base brackets in the concrete and Windows
footings. Use 3-inch deck screws to attach the top Use the table saw to rip two cedar 2×4s with a 45-
wall plates (D). Backfill the trenches with gravel. degree bevel cut to make the roof plates (M); use
3-inch deck screws to attach them to the top wall
cut and Assemble plates, with the bevel facing out and aligned with
the Roof Frame the rafters as shown. Starting at one end, place a
Rather than precut all the parts for the roof frame, corrugated metal roofing panel along the rafter www.diyideas.com
DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006 95