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The myth of Cretan cuisine in Anatolia   Füsun ERTUĞ Ph.D. İznik/ Nicea- Türkiye [email_address]   “ Cretan Cuisine: History, Evolution, Questions and Answers (?)” July 16 –17, 2011  Karanou (Chania / Crete / Greece) BODRUM MARKET 2006
The Myth ,[object Object]
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],The background of the myth
Groups of Muslims migrated  during or after the events of 1897 ,  at the start of the  Greek rule in 1908,  and especially in the framework of the 1923 agreement of the Exchange of Greek and Turkish Populations, which we refer to as ‘mübadele’ in Turkish. ,[object Object],Kaya koruğu-  Crithmum maritimum
What was happening when the Cretan Muslims arrived to Anatolia? ,[object Object],[object Object],Cretan Muslims (‘Kirtikos’) arrived to a country in a turmoil. According to the myth their contemporaries in Anatolia (‘yerlides’) had limited information about local herbs, and learned edible plants from Cretan migrants.  Cretans’ fondness of herbs  has been the source of many jokes. Some jokes intended to humiliate migrants, as they were  ‘different’. They were not ‘Turks’ for their language was different, and not ‘good Muslims’ for they had a fondness for eating snails.
Jokes and facts ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Comparison of  three studies for wild edibles Among these three studies the highest number of edibles were recorded at Bodrum, it was also the longest study and the area of research was much larger than both. The town of Buldan, which is at the junction of Inner Anatolia and the Aegean, provided comparatively limited information*. Endemics were in limited use in all three areas. In addition in a recent study in Igdır, NE corner of Turkey (near Yerevan, Armenia), 143 wild taxa is recorded as food**. * Ertug, F., Tümen, G., A. Çelik and T. Dirmenci 2004 TÜBA-TÜKSEK Buldan (Denizli) Etnobotanik Alan Araştırma Raporu 2003 Yılı Çalışması (Buldan Ethnobotanical Study 2003 report). Türkiye Bilimler Akademisi  TÜBA Kültür Envanteri Dergisi  2: 187-218.  ** Altundag, E. and N. Özhatay (in print)  Traditional Knowledge About Wild Edible Plants of Iğdır Province (East Anatolian, Turkey) Total numbers Aksaray Bodrum Buldan Total number of natural species  known by locals 300 355 212 No. of species in the wild food group 101 143 80 No. of  greens (leafy edibles) 42 63 23 Endemics  to Turkey used as food & beverages 9 6 6
[object Object]
[object Object],Turp- Raphanus raphanistrum Kenker-  Scolymus hispanicus   Deniz Börülcesi- Salicornia europea Hardal-  Sinapis arvensis Isırgan- Urtica dioica Mürdümük- Lathyrus clymenum
Market places tell a different side of the story ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Literature on gathering ,[object Object],[object Object]
Central Anatolia / Cappadocian experience  ,[object Object]
Kızılkaya along Melendiz River - Aksaray ,[object Object],Village-plain altitude from sea level: 1200m.,  Hasan Dag: 3268 m.
Supplement to a carbohydrate rich diet ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Cusine of the Steppes ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Misti of Cappadocia ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Misti- Konaklı of Cappadocia ,[object Object]
From the inland to Bodrum ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],A total of  143 natural  species (63 leaves and shoots) are recorded in the food and beverage category *.  Some edible plants are no longer collected by local people, some others are known only by certain villagers, and some species are under the threat of over collection. * Ertug, F.  2004  Wild Edible Plants of the Bodrum Area (Muğla, Turkey),  Turkish Journal of Botany  28: 161-174.
Greens and vegetable dishes A typical Bodrum / Aegean table is consist of greens, beans, dolma’s of all kinds, and salads. Most of them cooked with olive oil. Greens were either boiled or fried with onion; also eaten with yogurt or eggs.  From October on, it is possible to collect about 25 wild greens, and this number can increase to 43 in February. The number then decreases, and in May many edible greens have bloomed and the leaves have become tough, leaving only about 15 still edible.
Favorite Wilds ,[object Object],[object Object],Asparagus ( Tilkişen ) and Tamus ( Acıot ) shoots are considered delicacy.
[object Object]
Serving broad beans-  bakla This pot of fresh beans cooked over the fire with some olive oil and a bunch of  Chrysanthemum  stems with its flowers. The salt was added right before the dish was served, and it was very tasty.   Broad beans, cheese, and a plate of olives with bread created a great lunch.
[object Object],Dishes for the weddings and ceremonies
Conclusion and some more questions ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],WAKE UP BEFORE DAWN FOR A GOOD FORTUNE

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Ertug cretan cusine_2

  • 1. The myth of Cretan cuisine in Anatolia   Füsun ERTUĞ Ph.D. İznik/ Nicea- Türkiye [email_address] “ Cretan Cuisine: History, Evolution, Questions and Answers (?)” July 16 –17, 2011  Karanou (Chania / Crete / Greece) BODRUM MARKET 2006
  • 2.
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  • 7. Comparison of three studies for wild edibles Among these three studies the highest number of edibles were recorded at Bodrum, it was also the longest study and the area of research was much larger than both. The town of Buldan, which is at the junction of Inner Anatolia and the Aegean, provided comparatively limited information*. Endemics were in limited use in all three areas. In addition in a recent study in Igdır, NE corner of Turkey (near Yerevan, Armenia), 143 wild taxa is recorded as food**. * Ertug, F., Tümen, G., A. Çelik and T. Dirmenci 2004 TÜBA-TÜKSEK Buldan (Denizli) Etnobotanik Alan Araştırma Raporu 2003 Yılı Çalışması (Buldan Ethnobotanical Study 2003 report). Türkiye Bilimler Akademisi TÜBA Kültür Envanteri Dergisi 2: 187-218. ** Altundag, E. and N. Özhatay (in print) Traditional Knowledge About Wild Edible Plants of Iğdır Province (East Anatolian, Turkey) Total numbers Aksaray Bodrum Buldan Total number of natural species known by locals 300 355 212 No. of species in the wild food group 101 143 80 No. of greens (leafy edibles) 42 63 23 Endemics to Turkey used as food & beverages 9 6 6
  • 8.
  • 9.
  • 10.
  • 11.
  • 12.
  • 13.
  • 14.
  • 15.
  • 16.
  • 17.
  • 18.
  • 19. Greens and vegetable dishes A typical Bodrum / Aegean table is consist of greens, beans, dolma’s of all kinds, and salads. Most of them cooked with olive oil. Greens were either boiled or fried with onion; also eaten with yogurt or eggs. From October on, it is possible to collect about 25 wild greens, and this number can increase to 43 in February. The number then decreases, and in May many edible greens have bloomed and the leaves have become tough, leaving only about 15 still edible.
  • 20.
  • 21.
  • 22. Serving broad beans- bakla This pot of fresh beans cooked over the fire with some olive oil and a bunch of Chrysanthemum stems with its flowers. The salt was added right before the dish was served, and it was very tasty. Broad beans, cheese, and a plate of olives with bread created a great lunch.
  • 23.
  • 24.