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Oplæg om Tekstibranchen af David Watson, CRI, Kolding, 20. maj 2014
1. Getting more out of textiles – challenges and
opportunities
Danmarks Råstof
Dialogue Workshop
20. maj 2014
David Watson, Senior
Consultant
2. Why textiles?
4th
most impacting consumption cluster
Consumption is growing and quality reducing
Impacts are happening far from Denmark
But on the positive side
Reuse/recycling in DK can offset production impacts in Asia
Already healthy reuse market
Textiles /fashion industry is highly innovative
2
3. What happens to used textiles today?
89 000 tons put on market (16 kg/cap)
41 000 tons collected by charities/others
12 000 tons reused in Denmark & 23 000 tons exported for
reuse/recycling
All collected reusable textiles are resold – thriving market
BUT
24 000 tons end in mixed waste for incineration
A significant part of this potentially reusable
18 000 tons missing - accumulated in wardrobes/lofts?
Most non-reusables are incinerated/downcycled – no market
LOST RESOURCES!
4. Principles for improvement
Textiles follow the waste heirarchy –
Extending product life is better than recycling
Recycling is better than downcycling/incineration
5. Principles for improvement
1. Increase the active lifetime of products
Not in useIn use
Functional lifetime
End of life
One user
Functional lifetime
End of life
In use In use In use
Many
users
6. Established/emerging models
Resell of used own-brand - Filippa K
Resell by charity – Red Cross, Kirkens Korshær
Luxury second hand - Second, O.S.V.
Exchange between consumers – online, flea- & swapmarkets
Leasing of own brand - MUD, Beibamboo
Clothing libraries – Chare, ReSecond
Shared wardrobes - Share Your Closet
Repair shops
Local job
creation!!
7. Challenges to models
• Lack of quality of products
• Unfavourable price differential – high local wages, low price of
new
8. Principles for improvement
2. Increase the durability/quality of products
Functional lifetime
End of life
In use In use
Functional lifetime
End of life
In use In use In use In use
9. Principles for improvement
3. Closed-loop recycling at end of functional life
Functional lifetime
Incineration/
downcycling
In use In use In use In use
Mechanical recycling
CollectionFeed into
new textile
products
Chemical recycling
10. Chicken and egg problem
10
No seperate
collection
of non-reusable
textiles
Lack of technology
for recycling
mixed fibres
15. What’s happening?
Resource Strategy Part 2
Idea Catalogue for Miljøstyrelsen
Nordic Council of Ministers – 4 current
projects
16. Policy package 3 - 10 Policy options
16
Lack of quality of products
1.Financial assistance and requirement for sustainable design course in
design schools
2.Durability labelling/criteria
3.Stronger implementation of Product Guarantee Directive
Unfavourable price differences – high wages, low
price of new
4.VAT reduction/removal for repair, reuse & leasing
5.Prioritisation in funding pools for start-ups
6.Square metre scheme – support to secondhand in city centres
7.Unemployment subsidies earmarked for green business
8.Raw material fee/tax
17. Policy package 3 - 10 Policy options
17
Consumer/producer unawareness and inertia
9.Knowledge hubs and advice bureaus for start-ups
10.Nordic awards for new business models
18. Next stage – evaluation of PPs
18
Focus on:
Highlighting critical design elements of policy
Identifying risk factors
Identifying synergies within/between policy packages
23. 23
FIGUR 1 SAMMENLIGNING AF DE NI SCENARIER FOR POLYESTER. TIL VENSTRE: SAMMENLIGNING
AF GLOBAL OPVARMNING. TIL HØJRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF PRIMÆR ENERGI1.
Sammenligning af ni scenarier -
polyester
Source: CRI and Force
Technology, MST (forthcoming)
24. 24
Sammenligning af ni scenarier -
bomuld
Source: CRI and Force
Technology, MST (forthcoming)
FIGUR 1 SAMMENLIGNING AF DE NI SCENARIER FOR BOMULD. TIL VENSTRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF
GLOBAL OPVARMNING. TIL HØJRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF PRIMÆR ENERGI.
25. Producentansvar i Frankrig
Lovkrav siden 2006
Omfatter tøj, linned og sko
Ét kollektivt system: Eco TLC (omfatter 93 % af industrien)
Ca. 25 % indsamles. Målet er 50 %.
60-65 % af det indsamlede genbruges.
Bidrag går til bl.a. sortering, kommunikation, evaluering
og kortlægning
Fremtiden: uddannelse af designere
25
27. 3. Lang levetid
Reparation og skrædderservice
Undervisning i reparation - Green Eileen,
danske biblioteker
Tekstilprodukter af bedre kvalitet
28. 4. Re-design
Re-design af gamle kollektioner – Top Shop
Re-design af brugte tekstiler –
Re:Something, Wardrobe surgery
29. Generelle tendenser
Masser af gode forretningsmodeller, men kan de skaleres
op? Og skal de skaleres op?
Større miljømæssige gevinster ved genbrug end ved
genanvendelse. MEN usikkerhed om den såkaldte
”erstatnings effekt”.
Forbrugernes reaktion er altafgørende – men hvordan?
Bedre kvalitet er vigtig – men hvordan?
Positive forventninger til jobskabelse i Norden (formentlig
på bekostning af jobs i Asien)
29
30. Danske muligheder… lige nu
(Nordisk samarbejde om) øget indsamling –
hvad er ”resten”?
Fokus på offentlige udbud og den private
sektor
Fokus på udbredelse af nye
forretningsmodeller
Fokus på forbrugeradfærd
30
31. Min præsentation
Hvorfor tekstiler?
Det danske flow af tekstiler
Hvad sker der lige nu?
- Producentansvar i Frankrig
- Nye forretningsmodeller
Danske muligheder…
31
32. Indenlandsk forbrug af tekstiler
32
Gruppe
Forsyning =
Import +
indenlandsk
produktion -
eksport
(kg/capita)
Store beklædningsstykker (rober, frakker,
jakker og regntøj)
1,1
Bukser 3,0
Jakker 0,1
Kjoler og nederdele 0,8
Jakkesæt 0,3
Trøjer og bluser 1,1
Undertøj inklusive sokker og nattøj 1,4
T-shirts 1,9
Sweaters 1,2
Baby tøj 0,4
Trænings- og badetøj 0,7
Handsker, hatte, tørklæder mm. 0,4
Tæpper (ej til gulve), plaider o. lign 0,2
Sengetæpper 0,9
Duge, gardiner og sengetæpper 1,8
Håndklæder 0,6
Genbrugstøj og klude -6,2
Total (inklusive genbrugstøj og klude) 9,8
Total (eksklusive genbrugstøj og klude) 16,0
1st: for example a model based on repair and/or leasing is likely to produce more jobs in Nordic countries close to the customer, and hopefully offset the production of new clothes taking place in Asia
2nd: And here I say ‘should’, because……..
3rd: A WRAP study found that when you buy a used article of clothing it doesn’t necessarily stop you from buying a new article as well. In fact displacement rates of new purchases were only 28%. This may be because one has a set budget for clothes and used clothes are often cheaper, or because it doesn’t quite fulfill expectations. Can’t necessarily use this result for Nordic countries
4th: this is because feedback effects only operate fully when individual brands take back their own i.e. not much point for a company in a collective system to design for reuse if none of the other comapnies are doing it. But collective systems can be designed with feedback effects – needs careful design of the system.
5th: an example would be activities increasing awareness of the environmental importance of reuse and recycling, or instruments that promote increased quality and durability of products
1st: for example a model based on repair and/or leasing is likely to produce more jobs in Nordic countries close to the customer, and hopefully offset the production of new clothes taking place in Asia
2nd: And here I say ‘should’, because……..
3rd: A WRAP study found that when you buy a used article of clothing it doesn’t necessarily stop you from buying a new article as well. In fact displacement rates of new purchases were only 28%. This may be because one has a set budget for clothes and used clothes are often cheaper, or because it doesn’t quite fulfill expectations. Can’t necessarily use this result for Nordic countries
4th: this is because feedback effects only operate fully when individual brands take back their own i.e. not much point for a company in a collective system to design for reuse if none of the other comapnies are doing it. But collective systems can be designed with feedback effects – needs careful design of the system.
5th: an example would be activities increasing awareness of the environmental importance of reuse and recycling, or instruments that promote increased quality and durability of products
1st: for example a model based on repair and/or leasing is likely to produce more jobs in Nordic countries close to the customer, and hopefully offset the production of new clothes taking place in Asia
2nd: And here I say ‘should’, because……..
3rd: A WRAP study found that when you buy a used article of clothing it doesn’t necessarily stop you from buying a new article as well. In fact displacement rates of new purchases were only 28%. This may be because one has a set budget for clothes and used clothes are often cheaper, or because it doesn’t quite fulfill expectations. Can’t necessarily use this result for Nordic countries
4th: this is because feedback effects only operate fully when individual brands take back their own i.e. not much point for a company in a collective system to design for reuse if none of the other comapnies are doing it. But collective systems can be designed with feedback effects – needs careful design of the system.
5th: an example would be activities increasing awareness of the environmental importance of reuse and recycling, or instruments that promote increased quality and durability of products