South-china

SOUTH CHINA BLEACHING AND DYEING FACTORY LIMITED
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CHAPTER 1
Introduction About an Organization

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1.1 Preface
South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd is a Private Limited Company with
limited liability on 8 March 1994 and commenced commercial operation in 1995
and also went into the public issue of shares and debentures in the same year. The
shares of the Company are listed in the Dhaka and Chittagong Stock Exchanges of
Bangladesh.
South China B & D Factory Ltd. is mainly Chinese company and running from Hong
Kong office. Most of the order were issuing from head office which is placed on
Hong Kong.
South China B & D Factory Ltd. is the most modern composite mill in the region.
South China Ltd. has an installed capacity of 288 high-speed air-jet looms in its
weaving section and a high-tech dyeing and finishing section with a capacity of
100,000 yards of finished fabric per day. This company is located at the DEPZ,
Savar, Dhaka.
South China B & D Factory Ltd. has a state of the art composite Woven fabric
production mill, which serves the growing needs of high-quality Woven garments
exporters in Bangladesh. The project was set up as a state of the art Woven fabric,
dyeing and finishing facility. During the year the Company produced and sold high
quality of Woven fabrics and bringing forth all the latest in hard and soft
technologies in Woven, dyeing and finishing of Woven fabric.
1.2 South china corporate profile
Since independence of Bangladesh has come a long way, and the South China Group
of Companies is honored to have had a role in the development of its parent nation.
The Group has worked with a simple philosophy; identify an important need and
then do everything possible to successfully satiate that need, in a manner which best
facilitates the well-being of the nation. As a result, South China has focused on those
industries which give Bangladesh a competitive advantage in the global market place

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in many cases creating the industries for the first time in the region. Throughout its
four and a half decade journey the Group has been one of the leading innovators in
the country.
Presently South China Group comprises twenty-one companies of which five are
listed with the Dhaka Stock Exchange employing over 35,000 personnel and is the
largest private sector industrial conglomerate in the nation. In the course of its
growth, it has created industrial and management capabilities that will serve the
country for generations to come. It was the first local conglomerate to embrace an
international corporate structure which is the foundation of its success. SOUTH
CHINA's industrial businesses is mainly textiles.
It is the creation and expansion of businesses critical to Bangladesh 's development,
businesses, which are developed and run by Bangladeshis, businesses that develop
technologies and practices specific to the needs of the country, which is the defining
characteristic of the SOUTH CHINA story.
1.3 Mission
Each of our activities must benefit and add value to the common wealth of our
society. We firmly believe that, in the final analysis we are accountable to each of
the constituents with whom we interact; namely: our employees, our customers, our
business associates, our fellow citizens and our shareholders.
1.4 Vision
To build a true marketing leading enterprise with motivated workforce, innovation
vison and more value added product portfolio, customer satisfaction and
understanding of global market.
▪ To be one of best leading composite mill in Bangladesh.
▪ Gain market leadership in high value added apparel in USA and Europe.
▪ Use “Innovative and Speed” as prime drivers, rather than cotton and cheap
labor.

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1.5 WAY TO ADJUST SOUTH CHINA B & D FACTORY LIMITED
EPZ
EPZ
Bangladesh
UAE maitry
Complex
Abdullahpur Banani Mahakhali
Chokroborti Bipile Nobinagar
Tongi
Ashulia
E
S
W
N

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CHAPTER 2
LAY-OUT PLAN

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Contents of layout plan
SL Department
01 Layout Plan For Goldex Limitted
02 Lay-out Plan for South China B & D Factory Limitted
03 Preparatory Department
04 Weaving 1
05 Weaving 2
06 Weaving 3
Quality Assurance (Manual & Automatic)

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CHAPTER 3
GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT
PRODUCTION PROCESS

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3.1 PRODUCTION FLOW CHART:
(South China B & D Factory Limited)
Grey Fabric Inspection
Sigeing
Desizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Mercerizing
Brushing (With or without)
Dyeing/ Printing
Finishing
Final Inspection
Rolling

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3.2 Production Flow Chart
(Goldtex Limited)
Warping
Sizing
Drawing-In
Tying-In
Weaving
Delivery

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3.3 Company profile
CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS: Plot No. 93-100
Dhaka Export Processing Zone
Gonakbari, Savar
Dhaka, Bangladesh
Phone: 880-2-7789223-4,
BUSINESS LINE: Manufacturing and Marketing Woven,
Fabrics & Dyeing.
LISTING STATUS: Public Listed Company.
STOCK EXCHANGE LISTING: Dhaka and Chittagong .
AUTHORIZED CAPITAL IN BDT: 3,000 Million Taka
PAID UP CAPITAL IN BDT: 1,882.50 Million Taka
NUMBER OF SHAREHOLDERS: 37,929
NUMBER OF LOOMS woven
INSTALLED:
212
PRODUCTION CAPACITY: 28 Million Linear Meters
NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES: 727
3.4 Factory Equipment
Different types of weaving, dyeing, cutting, sewing, finishing and generator
machines are supplied from China, Germany, Italy, Japan, Taiwan, U.K, USA,
Singapore etc.

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3.5 Production Capacity
1 lac yards/ day (Woven dyeing)
12 tons/ day (Woven dyeing)
3.6 Certification and Award
1. ISO 9001:2000 Certificate
2. OEKKO-TEX Certified.
3.7 Product of South China
Fabrics:
▪ Oxford
▪ Canvas
▪ Dobby twill
▪ S Twill
▪ Z Twill
▪ Poplin
▪ Satin
Finishing:
▪ Wrinkle Free
▪ Easy Care
▪ Peach
▪ Chintz
▪ Paper Touch
▪ Teflon Coated
▪ Water Repellent
▪ Water Resistance
▪ Rubberized

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Dyeing:
▪ Solid Dyed
▪ T/C
▪ Polyester
3.8 Production department:
South China Ltd. is a fully vertical unit from weaving to finishing, Printing,
Washing and Packaging.
i. Weaving
ii. Dyeing
iii. Printing
iv. Finishing
v. Apparel (Goldtex garments Ltd)
3.8.1 Raw material:
Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry.
It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.
3.8.2 Types of Raw Materials:
i. Yarn
ii. Fabric
iii. Dye stuff
iv. Chemical and auxiliaries
3.8.3 Specialization fabrics:
i. Fully cotton
ii. Cotton + Lycra

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iii. Cotton + Polyester
iv. Cotton + Viscose
3.9 Basic procedure of planning &control
A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed within the
required time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable, “Planning”
gives a scheduled task and ‘Control’ completes it successfully. But production
planning and control is not an easy task. So SOUTH CHINA has a self-sufficient
and high-performance department called “Production Planning & Control”. Its Basic
working procedure is as follows-
1. Taking orders from marketing division.
2. Analyzing the orders.
3. Planning for weaving the fabric.
4. Planning for dyeing the fabric.
5. Planning for finishing the fabric.
6. Cost analysis & load time.
It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order.
Sometimes, order is places only for finishing the material or only for dyeing the
white goods. Then some steps are omitted from the planning procedure.
3.9.1 Taking orders from marketing division:
SOUTH CHINA marketing division supplies Fabric Orders to the BTL Planning
and control division by a special format.
3.9.2 Analyzing the orders:
This section analyzes the orders according to buyers, Order Quantity, type of orders
(i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.), delivery date etc. Then it selects which
M/C. to use, no of M/C. to use, time required for production etc. This section plans

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for required quantity of fabric need to be dyed. Dyeing balance, RFD (Ready for
delivery), RFD balance, delivered fabric and delivery balance.
3.9.3 Planning for weaving:
This section plans for weaving production. It selects machine for weaving the fabric
for specific type of fabric, type of yarn used, required GSM, width etc. It also gives
delivery data for woven fabric. It also places orders for buying of yarn from spinning
mills by a specific schedule.
3.9.4 Planning for dyeing the fabric:
Production planning for dyeing is called ‘Batch Plan’. According to the batch no.
and color, width, style and construction the batch plan is made. For easy understand
this section gives some ‘T’. Cards. ‘T’ card is serialized according to the priority of
delivery. The batches and ‘T’ cards also serialized as to dye light shade at first and
lastly the dark shades, so that faulty shades can be converted to dark color later.
3.9.5 Planning for finishing the fabric:
Finishing schedule is same us the dyeing. After dyeing the material goes to the
finishing section with the process rout card. Finished data is written to the rout card
and is informed to the planning section.
However, this section always enforces to all the departments to finishing all the
works within the delivery time given by the buyers. This section delivers materials
to the garment factory in the lead time. Thus it plays a very important role in the
success of the company.

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3.10 Infrastructure of south China
3.10.1 Factory property
▪ 20 acres
▪ 2 million sq ft buildings
▪ 15,00 workers
▪ About 2900 employers.
3.10.2 Integrated Plant and Machinery
▪ Woven
▪ Dyeing
▪ Finishing
▪ Fashion Apparel
▪ Fashion washing
3.10.3 Environmental Control
Effluent Treatment Plant designed to meet best International Standards.
3.10.4 Design Studio
Collaborative Partnership with Zara, PVH, JCP, H&M and Mothercare yarns,
fabrics, fashion apparel.

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3.11 SOUTH CHINA PARTNERS WITH MAJOR RETAILERS &
INTERNATIONAL BRANDS

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CHAPTER 4
MANPOWER MANAGEMENT

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4.1 Organogram of South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd and
Goldtex Limited

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4.2 Man Power distribution in Deferent Section
SL Department Officer Staff Worker Total
1. Accounts 9 1 0 10
2. Bleaching 3 2 67 72
3. Boiler 1 0 8 9
4. Brushing 1 0 11 12
5. Chemical Store 3 2 11 16
6. Commercial 9 2 0 11
7. Dyeing 3 4 79 86
8. Electrical 3 0 30 33
9. Fabric store 2 4 32 38
10. Finishing 2 1 43 46
11. House keeping 1 1 28 30
12. HR & Admin 7 3 0 10
13. IT 3 2 0 5
14. Laboratory 11 23 10 44
15. Marketing 13 2 0 15
16. Mechanical 5 2 50 57
17. Printing 2 1 22 25
18. Production 3 4 10 17
19. Q. A 3 0 19 22
20. Rolling 1 6 43 50
21. Security 2 0 30 32
22. Transport 0 0 17 17
23. Washing 2 0 68 70
Total 727

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4.3 Management system
▪ Buyer sample is send to G.M.
▪ Matching is done by lab in charge.
▪ Sample is prepared by dyeing master.
▪ Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
▪ Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. Sample for bulk production.
▪ Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer.
▪ Then production officer, with the supervisors start bulk production.
▪ On line and off line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. dyeing
master.
▪ After dyeing finishing in charge controls the finishing process with the
supervision of production officer.
▪ After finishing, the material is checked by dyeing master.
▪ Finally, G.M. checks the result with dyeing master and decision is taken for
delivery.
4.3.1 Duties & Responsibilities of Production Officer
To collect the necessary information and instruction from the previous shift for the
smooth running of the section.
▪ To make the junior officer understand how to operate the whole production
process.
▪ To match production sample with target shade.

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▪ To collect the production sample lot sample matching next production.
▪ To observe dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing
process.
▪ To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action.
▪ To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.
▪ To sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM
▪ To execute the overall floor work.
▪ To maintain loading/ unloading paper.
▪ Any other assignment given by the authority.
4.3.2 Duties & Responsibilities of Senior Production Officer
▪ Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
▪ Batch preparation and pH check.
▪ Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check.
▪ Write loading / unloading time from machine.
▪ Program making, sample checking, color measurement.
▪ Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing
machine.
▪ Any other work as and when required
4.3.3 Duties & Responsibilities of DGM (Production)
▪ Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
▪ Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.
▪ Check the different log books and report to management.
▪ Check the plan to control the best output.
▪ To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality.
▪ Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing m/c
▪ Maintenance the machinery and equipment.

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4.4 Generalization
South China has been established as a modernized textile industry for its well
prepared management team and knowledgeable officers, employees, operators,
workers. The well oriented work teams of South China are continuing their work
with so many world famous buyers such as JCP, Zara, H&M etc and gaining
customer satisfaction.

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CHAPTER 5
PREPATORY SECTION

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5.1 Flow chart of weaving
Spinning Bobbin
Warp yarn preparation Weft yarn preparation
Warping Pirn, cop winding
Sizing Weaving
Drawing-in and Denting
Tying-in
Weaving

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5.2 Warping
In general terms, warping is transferring many yarns from a creel of single-end
packages forming a parallel sheet of yarns wound onto a beam or a section beam.
The warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is called the weaver’s beam. A
weaver’s
beam can contain several thousand ends and for different reasons it is rarely
produced in one
operation.
Fig: Direct warping machine (Benninger)
5.2.1 Objects of Warping:
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they can be
collect on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can be used for
sizing or next process.

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5.2.2 Types of Warping:
Two types of yarn warping are used in weaving.
1. Direct/ High Speed Warping
2. Indirect/Sectional warping
In south china Bleaching & Dyeing factory Ltd. Only Direct/ High speed warping is
running.
5.2.3 High Speed Warping
High speed warping also called Beam warping/Direct warping. In high speed
warping the yarn is wound parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at
once and simple flanged beam is used. It is a very high speed process and is used for
making fabric of single colour.
5.2.4 Warping process involves

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5.2.5 Machine Specification
5.2.6 Machine Name:
1. BENNINGER
2. BENNINGER-KARL MAYER
 Origin: Switzerland
 Creel Capacity: 704
 Reed capacity: 630
 Machine speed: 700 m/min
 Target length: 24,850m
 Yarn count: 16 Ne
 Strength: 369.3 dtex
 Beam length: 1800 mm
5.2.7 Components of warping machine
Creel
 Single end creel
 Magazine creel
 Travelling package creel
 Swivel frame creel
 V – Shaped creel
Head stock
 Fixed
 Traveling
Due to the presence of v-shaped creel in the factory, we focused on that creel in our
discussion.

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V-shaped Creel
In this creel type, the creel boards are assembled in form of endless chains. While
warping is carried out from the outer sides using the already creeled up bobbins, the
subsequent yarn lot can be creeled up on the empty spindles positioned inside the
creel. This interior room serves at the same time as storage and bobbin exchange
station. The yarn lot can be changed by simply pushing a button, which starts the
electrically drive of the chains. The empty bobbins move towards the inside of the
creel, the full bobbins towards the outside.
Fig: V-shaped Creel
Components of Headstock
 adjustable V-wraith
 measuring and marking device
 yarn speed controlling device
 pneumatic or hydraulic pressure unit
 break assembly
 driving drum
 stop motion
 building drum
 beam bracket
 lease rod

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5.3 Sizing
Although the quality and characteristics of the warp yarns coming out of the winding
and warping processes are good, they are still not good enough for the weaving
process for most of the yarns. The weaving process requires the warp yarn to be
strong, smooth and elastic or extensible to a certain degree. To achieve these
properties on the warp yarns, a protective coating of a polymeric film forming agent
called size is applied to the warp yarns prior to the weaving this process is called
slashing or sizing. Sizing is not a value added process in woven fabric
manufacturing. This is because after the fabric is woven the size materials will be
removed from the fabric during the finishing operation which is called desizing.
The main purposes of sizing are as follows:
 To increase the strength of the yarn
 To reduce the yarn hairiness that would cause problems in weaving process
 To increase the abrasion resistance of the yarn against other yarns and
various weaving machine elements
 To reduce fluff and fly during the weaving process for high speed weaving
machines.
Figure: sizing process

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Sizing machine consists of a stand for one or more warper’s beams. This is known
as warper’s creel. The warp passes through a size bath containing size liquor (heated
to keep it at correct temperature). Excess size is removed by the squeeze rollers.
Then the warp passes through a drying section. Then the individual ends, adhered to
each other, are split using splitting rods before winding on weaver’s beam. Quality
of sizing has a significant influence on the weaving efficiency.
Figure: One dip one nip size box
Figure: Splitting of warp sheet

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5.3.1 Benefits of Sizing
 It prevents the warp yarn breakage due to abrasion with neighbouring yarns
or with back rest, heald eye and reed.
 It improves the yarn strength by 10 to 20%, although it is not the primary
objective of sizing process.
5.3.2 Characteristics of Sized Yarn
1. Higher strength
2. Lower elongation
3. Higher bending rigidity
4. Higher abrasion resistance
5. Lower hairiness
6. Lower frictional resistance
5.3.3 Sizing machine specifications:
South China Ltd. has one of the most modern sizing section in Bangladesh. There
are two types of sizing machine in south china Ltd .

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There are-
a) Jucker
b) Sucker + Muller (German)
Here are specifying for jucker only.
Machine Name: Jucker specifications
origin German
Duration of running 2005
Creel capacity 20
Lease rod 14
Storage Temperature 90/920
c
Winding tension 2900
Weavers speed 125 m/min
Weavers diameter 1000 mm
Barrel diameter 180mm
Target Production 100000-100015 m/day
5.3.4 Sizing Chemical Used for the below construction:
Construction: 30×30/134×80
Recipe/Chemical Name Amount
Emsize CMS 50 Kg
Emsize E-5 0
Emsize E-20 100 Kg
Wax 8 Kg
Alsize 9 Kg
Water 1000 Litre
Total Consumption 1167 Liter
Cooking time 40 min
Refraction 13%
Viscosity 55 mp.s

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5.3.5 Machine Parts(Jucker):
a) Creel
b) Immersion roller
c) Squeezing roller
d) Cylinder
e) Mahlo
f) Rotary compensating roller
g) Waxing guide roller
h) Lease rod
i) Reed
j) Comb
k) Tension roller
l) Carrier
m) Guide roller
n) Press roller
o) Weavers beam
p) Pneumatic valve
q) Circulation valve
r) Fit box
s) Squeezing pressure
t) Jet bar
u) Sonolight valve
5.3.6 Beaming
After the splitting, the warp sheet is finally wound on the weaver’s beam. The
warp sheet passes through an adjustable reed which can be expanded or collapsed
based on the width of the beam.
5.4 DRAWING-IN AND TYING-IN
5.4.1 Drawing-in:
After sizing, the warp beam is prepared to be placed on the weaving machine.
Drawing-in is to thread individual ends through weaving elements namely drop
wires, heald wires and reed when starting up a new fabric style. Special stands are
used to support various elements during the drawing-in process. Following the

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drawing-in process, the warp beam along with all the parts are transferred on to a
loom. Automated drawing-in machines may be used in large weaving facilities,
where automation justifies over manual drawing-in process.
Figure 16: Drawing-in Mechanism

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5.4.2 TYING-IN:
Fig: Tying-in process
After depletion of a warp beam on the weaving machine, if there will be no change
in design then the drawing in process need not be repeated. The ends of the old warp
beam are cut and the ends of the new warp beam are tied to the corresponding ends
of the old beam which is called tying in process. Then the warp ends are pulled
through the heddle eyes and reed until the knots are cleared. Automatic tying-in
machines are a common practice in the weaving industry.

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5.5 Weaving
5.5.1 Introduction to Weaving
Weaving is the oldest and the most common method of fabric formation. In weaving,
two sets of yarns often referred to as ‘warp’ (length-wise direction yarns - ends) and
‘weft’ (width-wise direction yarns - picks) are interlaced right angles to each other.
Fabrics can be woven from these two sets of yarns on a simple hand loom or on a
highly complex, totally automated power loom. Irrespective of whether it is a manual
operation or computerized touch-screen controlled operation, the basic weaving
concept is the same in both cases.
Weaving requires that the warp yarns be held under tension so that interlacing can
take place easily. The simplest method of interlacing is to move the weft over the
odd numbered warps and under the even numbered warps and invert this sequence
for the next pick. Repeating this sequence produces the basic type of weave which
is often referred to as ‘plain weave’.

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5.5.2 Basic Motions
Primary motions
The three primary operations, which occur in a given sequence, are:
 Shedding: It is the separation of the warp yarns, which run along the fabric
length, into sheets to form an angled opening known as the shed.
 Picking: Passing the weft yarn, which traverses along the fabric width,
through the shed.
 Beat-up: Pushing the newly inserted weft yarn (pick) into the fabric fell (this
is the imaginary line where the woven fabric structure starts).
The two secondary motions are:
 Warp let-off motion: Warp yarn is delivered from the warp beam (weavers
beam) to the weaving area at the required rate and a suitable constant tension.
 Fabric take-up motion: Fabric is withdrawn from the weaving area at a
constant rate in order to achieve the required pick spacing.

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5.5.3 Types of shedding Mechanism:
1. Paddle/Treadle shedding
2. Tappet shedding
3. Dobby shedding
4. Jacquard shedding
5. Combined shedding
5.5.4 Types of weaving Looms:
1. Shuttle weaving machines
2. Shuttle less weaving machine
Shuttle less looms
Shuttleless looms can be classified as
o Solid type: Projectile (gripper shuttle) looms, Rapier looms
o Fluid type: Air Jet looms, Water Jet looms
5.5.5 In Goldtex Ltd. There are three weaving floor and each floor covered
with air jet looms with full capacity.
FLOOR QUANTITY
Weaving-I TOYOTA-710 = 02 (810 RPM)
TSUDAKOMA = 40 (RPM>1000)
TOYOTA-600 = 52 (600RPM)
ALL TAPPET=94 Pcs
Production= 34,915 yds/day
Eff= 90% (avg)
Weaving-II
Total Loom= 59
Weaving-III Total Loom = 68

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5.5.6 Air Jet Looms:
Figure: Air jet loom
The first known concept of air jet weft insertion is by Brooks (Lancashire, England)
in 1914. In 1929, Ballou (USA) developed a suction nozzle at the receiving side to
complement Brooks’ insertion nozzle. First commercial air jet weaving machine was
patented in 1945 by Max Paabo (Sweden), by employing guide plates to reduce air
diffusion (figure 26a). These machines were initially manufactured by Maxbo in
Sweden and subsequently by Murata- Maxbo in Japan. Around same time in Czech
republic, air jet looms were developed by incorporating confusors (figure 26b,27) in
the shed in order to minimise air diffusion –these looms were running at1000
picks/minute. Dutch company, te Strake developed relay nozzles (figure 26c, 27).
This development (relay nozzles) along with profile reed has become a standard in
modern air jet looms.
Figure: Three methods for reducing air diffusion

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Figure: Principle of air jet weft insertion

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Weft insertion in commercial air jet looms
Figure 28: weft insertion elements
Figure shows various components in a commercial air jet weft insertion system.
Weft yarn is supplied by a weft accumulator (1) to the main nozzle. Weft
accumulator stores a metered length of yarn releases during weft insertion under low
(and uniform) tension. The main nozzle is supplied with ‘air jet’ by actuating high
speed valve (2). Once the weft yarn enters the shed, relay nozzles (3) are actuated in
small groups are actuated by high speed valves. The weft is constrained in the profile
reed (4). Stretch nozzle (5) applies tension to the yarn and keeps it taught until beat-
up process. First of the two optical sensors (6) detects the pick and estimates the weft
flight time. Supply pressure is automatically adjusted for different yarn types, based
on weft flight time. For example, filament yarns require higher pressure in
comparison to spun yarns; rotor spun yarns require high pressure than ring spun
yarns. In the event of a broken pick, second optical sensor will be triggered and the
broken pick is extracted by the suction tube at the end.
Figure: withdrawal of relay nozzles during beat-up

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Relay nozzles are mounted on the sley in such a position that they automatically
move out of the shed during beat-up.
5.6 Construction of some grey fabrics:
1. 150×80 /50×80+40D
2. 133×72 /40×40+40D
3. 150×80 /50×40+40
4. 128×60 / 20×16+70D
5. 120×76 /40×40+4
6. 130×80 / 40×40
7. 80×56 /20×16 +70D
8. 120×54 / 20×16 +70D
9. 133×94 / 40×40
10. 124×62 / 20×16
11. 110×76 /45×45
12. 120×64 / 30×30+20
13. 108×52 /45l×34/2
14. 90×32 /10×6sl

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CHAPTER 6
GREY FABRIC INSPECTION

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6.1 Process Definition
Grey fabric inspection is the process of identifying weaving faults in the fabric just
after the grey fabric production in the loom.
6.1.1 Equipment
1.Inspection table (Manual)
2.Fabric inspection machine (Automatic)
6.1.2 Key Accessories
Nipper, Pointer, Cutter, Comb etc
6.1.3 Safety measures
1. Smoking inside the inspection area is strictly prohibited.
2. Fire extinguishers are placed in the inspection area and all are trained
to use it.
3. No fabric stack is placed in front of electric panels.
6.1.4 Operation staff
Cloth doffer, cloth mender, inspector
6.1.5 Machine set up
Machine set up Parameter range
1) Roller speed 2200 m/hr
2) Light D65
3) Length measuring meter Yds

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6.2 Inspection System
Here grey fabrics are inspected according to “four-point System”.
It is widely used in Textiles. It is Simple & easy to understand. Inspection is done
about 10% of the product in The Shipment. This system has been approved by
AAMA (American Apparel Manufacturing Association).
The four points system classifies defects as follows: -
Size of defects Penalty
3" or less 1 point
Over 3"not over 6" 2 points
Over 6" but not over 9" 3 points
Over 9" 4 points
A maximum 4 points is charged for one linear yard.
Points per 100 sq. yards =
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑝𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡 ×36῎ ×100
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ 𝑖𝑛 𝑖𝑛𝑐ℎ𝑒𝑠 ×𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 𝑖𝑛 𝑖𝑛𝑐ℎ𝑒𝑠
Less than 40 points per 100sq. yds. are acceptable level.
6.2.1 Fabric Grading:
Penalty point Fabric Grade
Up to 25 A
26-35 B
>35 Rejected

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6.2.2 Grey fabric Faults
In the inspection table the operator finds out faults in the fabric and analyses their
intensity by visual inspection. Some of the common weaving faults are:
6.2.3 Fabric Faults Produced During Weaving Production
Warp Way Defect:-
1) Warp stitching:- Occurred due to want of interlacement between warp &
weft yarn which happens.
 If the warp threads of one shade goes to another.
 Faulty Dobby or Jacquard mechanism.
 Warp yarn if loose.
 Length of the harness cord is not equal.
 Warp is not properly sized.
2) Long float:- Causes due to
 If the warp yarn does not take part on interlacement
 Tappet is not properly tied.
 Peg of dobby if displaced.
 Jacquard harness or card cutting if defective.
 Worm out Reed if used.
3) Wrong warp threads:- Due to Drafting & Lifting.

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4) Missing warp: - Causes due to:-
 Wrong denting.
 Broken warp yarn in the beam.
 Out of order Warp Stop motion.
5) Double warp: - Warp way makes on the fabric due to:-
 Wrong Reed count used.
 Wrong denting in the reed.
6) Loose warp: - Causes due if
 Loose warp exist on the beam in loop form.
 Yarn tension in warping if not balanced.
 Yarn crossed in the dropper.
 Size pick up unequal.
7) Knot in the Warp yarn:- if there is any knots in warp yarns.
8) Selvedge effect: - Causes due to :-
 If the body and selvedge warp yarn tension is unequal.
 If the Reed space is greater but the width of the fabric is less.
 Sharp temple ring spikes.
9) Weft cut at the selvedge:- due to
 Absent of weft yarn in the selvedge.
 Defective Ring temple.
 If the temple not properly set.
10) Temple mark:- Mark on the selvedge of the fabric due to:-
 Light fabric if course temple is used.
 Temple yarn.
Weft way defect:-
1) Miss pick or broken pick:- Causes due to
 Broken pick.
 Yarn of pirn in finish.
 If weft yarn breaks at the middle.

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 Picking mechanism occurred by empty shuttle.
2) Broken design:- If the lifting mechanism is defective.
3) Thick & thin place which is called bar on the fabric.
4) Shuttle mark:-
 Shuttle flies.
 Shuttle box if not properly set.
5) Weft curls:- Causes due to
 Shuttle box and selvedge distance is more.
 Yarn to more twist.
 If the yarn on the pirn is loose.
6) Tight pick:- If the yarns on the pirn is too tight.
7) Cracks:- Causes due to
 Faulty take up & let off mechanism.
 Worm Crank shaft bearing.
 Defective beating up force.
8) Bow effect:- if the pirn is not properly set.
9) Finger mark:- Weavers negligence, oil man & m/c cleaner if not careful.
10) Rest in the fabric:- If the yarn remains within from matters for long.
11) Rough surface fabric:- Causes due to
 Count variation
 If the proper tension is not utilized.eg:- Honey comb, Heike back
design.
12) Dirty cloth:- Due to un mindfulness of the operative.
13) Stop Mark: Due to shut down of machine and reed.
6.3 Storage
The grey fabrics thus inspected are piled separately according to lot and sort/quality
or construction and to store; store upon receiving the production sheet physically
checks and receives the fabric.

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CHAPTER 7
PRE-TREATMENT

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7.1 Process Flow chart of Pre-Treatment Department
In preparatory department Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching are done by
continuous process through L-box and R-box machine. Here in L-box the scouring
& bleaching reaction box are working through Pad steam method , other R-box
scouring process going through water steam method.
1. L- box machine (continuous process)
2. R- box machine (continuous process)
3. Mercerizing machine (New)
4. Mercerizing machine (old)
Singeing
Desizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Mercerization

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7.2 Process flow chart of L- box machine
Singeing
• osthoff singe-I
• 2-burner
running out of
4
• origin:
Germany
Desizing(2)
• Room temp.
• Enzymatic/C
austic
Batching
• NaOH=10-
12 hr
• Enzymatic=
8-10 hr
Hot water bath
(open)
Injector
MC8
• Temp: 80-
850c
Horizontal
wash box(3)
• Temp: 900c
S. Chemical
box (closed)
• Room temp
Scouring
bath(open)
• Room temp
Reaction box
• Pad steam
• Time:50-55
min
• Temp: 90-
100
MC8
• 80-850c
• Vertical wash
box
Horizontal
wash box(2)
• Temp: 900c
Horizontal
wash box(cold)
• Room temp
Bleaching bath
(open)
• Room temp
Reaction box
• pad steam
• Time: 40-45
min
• Temp: 90-
1000c
Horizontal
wash box(3)
• Temp: 900c
Cylinder
(dryer)
• 1000c(34)
• Cold(3)
Rolling
• For nex
process

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7.3 Singeing
The protruding fibres on the surface of a fabric manufactured with spun yarns may
be desirable in that they impart a little softness to the fabric, but nonetheless they are
seen as a nuisance. These protruding fibres
1.
Create a fuzz which might obscure sharpness of a print or a coloured strip on the
garment
2. Can attract soil
3. May aggravate pilling
Many cotton materials are valued for their smooth appearance e.g. lustrous sateen
and satin weaves. Hence, in general, it is desirable to remove these surface fibres.
One of the most common methods to do this is just burn off these fibres! This is
known as Singeing. Although, now a day it is also done using enzymes for cellulosic
fibre fabrics.
7.3.1 Objective
To burn off the protruding fibers from a yarn or fabric.
ADVANTAGES -
1) Improved end use and wearing properties.
2) Clean Surface.
3) Reduced fogginess.
4) Reduced pilling.
5) Reduced Soiling.
Singeing usually involves passing/exposing one or both sides of a fabric over a gas
flame to burn off the protruding fibers.

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The temperature of the flame is quite high, hence the fabric is passed over the flame
at a high speed such that loose protruding fibres are burnt off but the fabric itself
remains undamaged.
Given below is the image of a typical gas burner used for singing of textile materials.

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A gas burner used for singing of textile materials
In the sequence of two figures below, one can see the appearance of fabrics before
and after singeing. The clean fabric surface after singeing is clearly noticeable.
Appearance of fabric after singeing
Since the loose fibres are present on both the surfaces of fabrics, one needs to expose
both the surfaces to the action of flame. In the schematic below, one can see the
arrangement of burners.

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7.4 Desizing
Desizing is the process of removal of size material applied on warp threads of a
fabric to facilitate the process of weaving. Size forms a stiff, hard and smooth coating
on warp yarns to enable them to withstand the cyclic tensions during weaving and
reduce breakage.
7.4.1 Objects of Desizing
1. To remove the starch material from the fabric.
2. To increase the absorbency power of the fabric.
3. To increase the affinity of the fabric to the dry chemicals.
4. To make the fabric suitable for the next process.
5. To increase the luster of the fabric increase of dyeing and printing.
7.4.2 Methods of desizing:
 Enzymatic desizing.
 Oxidative desizing.

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 Acid steeping.
 Rot steeping (use of bacteria).
 Desizing with hot caustic soda treatment.
 Hot washing with detergents.
7.4.3 Caustic Desizing Recipe:
Padding Temp: Room
Temp
Batching Time: 8 hrs
PH: 10-11
Chemical Amount
NaOH-99% 25 g/L
GW-205 P 1 h/L
Sodium persulfate (97%) 2 g/L
Soda Ash 10 g/L
Hostapal DTC 3 g/L
Trisodium phosphate 1 g/L
7.4.4 Enzymatic Desizing Recipe:
Temp: Room temp.
Batching time: min 8 hrs
PH: 5-6
Ingredients Amount
Rucolase HCH 8 g/L
Hostapal DTC 3 g/L
Denimax BT 5 g/L
Acetic Acid 0.5 g/L

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7.5 Batching
After desizing the fabric is packed by poly bag. Then it goes for rotation for 8 to 12
hours. In this time chemical/enzyme react with starch and decomposed. Finally
Sizing material became water soluble as a glucose.
Fig: Batching period
7.6 Chemical mixing unit
Beside desizing unit there are two chemical tank one of them is called reserve tank
where chemical is mixed & circulated, another is storage tank whereagitated
chemicals are stored for using in bath. From this chemical entered in bath asfor even
immersion required.
Fig: Mixing tank

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7.7 Scouring
The process to remove the fats, oil, and waxy substance and added other
impurities by certain percent of alkali and which increases the absorbency
power of the textile goods is called scouring.
7.7.1 Objective
a) To remove the natural as well as added impurities as completely as possible.
b) To provide a clean material by adding alkali.
c) To leave the material to a highly absorptive condition without undergoing
any physical & chemical damage.
a) To make fabric suitable for next process.
7.7.2 The main changes scouring during scouring
a) Saponifiable oils & fatty acid are converted in to soap &peptic acid.
b) Pectin & pectoses are converted into soluble salt &peptic acid.
c) Proteins are degraded into simple soluble amino acid.
d) Mineral matters are dissolved.
e) Dirt is removed.
f) Sizing materials are broken down into soluble product.
7.7.3 Main chemicals of scouring
The following chemicals are used in scouring
a) Alkali
b) Wetting agent
c) Detergent
d) Sequestering agent or chelating agent
e) Solvent

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7.7.4 Recipe for scouring that are used in south china Ltd. (L-box)
Temp: >900
c
Pick up: 80%
PH: 10-11
Chemicals Amount
NaOH 99% 80 g/L
Soda Ash 2.5 g/L
Rucowet CMR 5 g/L
Trisodium phosphate 1 g/L
GW-205P 1 g/L
7.7.5 Pick up%
The total amount of chemicals which are absorbed by fabrics.
It is the ratio weight (wet fabric to dry fabric) to dry fabric and expressed in
percentage.
Formula
Pick up% =
𝑊𝑒𝑡 𝑓𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐−𝐷𝑟𝑦 𝑓𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐
𝐷𝑟𝑦 𝑓𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐
× 100
7.7.6 L-Box Parts:
Reaction Box
Here fabric is passing for proper reaction with scouring chemical like NaOH at 1000
c
temperature for 50-55 min. This reaction box is called L-box for this shape and
working through pad steam method.

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Injector
The main function of injector is to force hot water at 900
c to the desized fabric. And
remove sizing material. Also the rest sizing material would be broken by hot water.
Fig: Injector

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MC8/vertical wash box:
The main purpose of MC8 is removing the residual material through hot water.
Fig: Vertical wash box

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Horizontal wash box:
Ultimately the function of MC8 and horizontal are same. They are named different
because of their shape.

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Fig: Horizontal wash box
7.8 Bleaching
Bleaching is chemical treatment employed for the removal of natural coloring matter
from the substrate. The source of natural color is organic compounds with
conjugated double bonds , by doing chemical bleaching the discoloration takes place
by the breaking the chromophore , most likely destroying the one or more double
bonds with in this conjugated system. The material appears whiter after the
bleaching.
7.8.1 Bleaching objectives
a) Removal of coloured impurities.
b) Removal of the seed coats.
c) Minimum tendering of fibre.
d) Technically reliable & simple mode of operation.
e) Low chemical & energy consumption.
f) Increasing the degree of whiteness.

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7.8.2 Type of Bleaching Agents
a) Oxidative Bleaching Agents
b) Reductive Bleaching Agents
c) Enzymatic Bleaching Agents
7.8.3 Bleaching process in reaction box
The fabric taking bleaching chemical from bleaching bath than enter into the reaction
box. In reaction box containing steam at 1000
c temperature. Fabric needed 50 min
for bleaching reaction in L-box. H2O2 start reaction with grey fabric coloring
materials with proper pH
and temperature.
7.8.4 Recipe of bleaching
Pick up: 80%
Temp: 900
c
PH: 10.25-11
Chemicals Amount
H2O2 4 g/L
Clarite MAX 1 g/L
GW-205P 3.75 g/L
NaOH 1 g/L

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7.8.5 Machine Parts:
Hot Cylinder:
It is used for drying purposes of wet fabric. The drying temperature were maintained
at 1000
c.
Cold cylinder
Cold cylinder used for making the hot fabric into cold before rolling of the final
fabric.
7.8.6 Titration process for scouring:
Instruments:
Burette, Pipette, Beaker etc
Formula:
NaOH (g/l) =
𝑁.𝐻2𝑆𝑂4×𝑣.𝐻2𝑆𝑂4×40
𝑉𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑚𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝑁𝑎𝑂𝐻 𝑠𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑡𝑎𝑘𝑒𝑛
Procedure:
i. 1ml mixer solution or chemical solution is taken from scouring bath.
ii. 2-3 drops phenolphthalein indicator is taken.
iii. For titration 0.5 N H2SO4 is used.
iv. The number of drops of 0.5 N H2SO4 is used to calculate the amount of
NaOH present in the scouring bath.

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7.8.7 Titration process for Bleaching:
Reagent:
i. 100 cc water
ii. H2SO4 (20%)
iii. 0.1 N KMnO4
Formula:
H2O2 (g/l) =
𝑁.𝐾𝑀𝑛𝑂4×𝑉.𝐾𝑀𝑛𝑂4×17
𝑉𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑚𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝐻2𝑂2 𝑠𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑡𝑎𝑘𝑒𝑛
Procedure:
i. 1ml mixer solution or chemical solution is taken.
ii. Adding H2SO4 (20%)
iii. Taking 0.1 N K2MnO4 in a burette
iv. The number of drops of 0.1N KMnO4 is used to calculate the readings until
the solution turns in to light pink color.
7.8.8 Bleaching Fabric Test:
Column Test:
i. Full width of fabric is immersed on water for 30 min.
ii. If the fabric absorbed water within 8-9 cm than the bleaching in done but if
the fabric absorbed more >8-9 cm than bleaching is improper.

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Fig: capillary test
Capillary Test:
i. Bleached fabric is immersed into water below 3 cm for 5 min.
ii. If it was absorbed water within 40 mm than bleaching is properly done
otherwise is improper.
7.9 Mercerization
7.9.1 Mercerizing:
Mercerization is a process for increasing absorbency, strength, and lusture of the
fabric by physio-chemical treatment. And this chemical treatment is occurred in two
IMP-1 and IMP-2 bath by passing the fabric into a airing zone.John Mercer was the
first chemist in the world who found this phenomenon in 1844.Therefore, the process
was called Mercerizing.
7.9.2 Mercerization is carried out for the following purpose.
1. Improving lustre (silky look, in tension mercerization only).
2. Improving tensile strength.
3. Improved dimensional stability.
4. Increasing uniformity of dyeing & improving color yield (savings in
dyestuff).
5. Improving Elasticity or Stretch material (in slack mercerization only).

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Mercerization is a process of impregnating the textile material with a concentrated
solution of cold NaOH, keeping it in contact with this cold solution for a given time
with or without tension, and subsequently rinsing it.
Fig: Mercerization effect
7.9.3 Some Machine & Process parameter
M/c specification
M/c name: Mercerize m/c
Brand: Goller
Origin: Germany
Speed: 60 m/min
Capacity: 1 lac m/day
Expander roller: Remove dirtiness and keep the

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7.9.4 Recipe:
180 g/LNaOH
• For Brushing
220 g/LNaOH
• For Dyeing

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7.9.5 Flow chart of mercerization:
Bleached Fabric
Brush roller
J-Trey
NaOH bath
Air can
NaOH bath
Air can
Washing bath(cold)
Chain/Clip
Hot wash(open)
Horizontal wash box(900c)(7)
Hot cylinder(30)
Cold cylinder(6)
Rolling

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7.9.6 Mercerizing Machine parts:
Air can:
After absorbing NaOH the fabric passing through several air can for oxidation.
Fabric is passed over the Airing zone after chemical padding. Herethere is no
application of temperature & pressure. It involves 4 rollers which are drivenby
motor. This application is only for drying in contact of air which facilitates more
chemical consumption from next bath.
Chain System:
From Impregnation fabric pass over the free roller & comes in to chain for gripping.
Here the fabric is stretched for control width. If crease mark is found from previous
process, that can also be controlled by stretching. Here there is an additional option
of showering by hot water. Which ensure proper cleaning & removal of residual
caustic.

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Fig: Mercerizing chain (clip)
Wash Box:
From chain by squeezing fabric comes directly to washing chamber. Here fabric
passed over some driven roller to make proper hot wash. There are seven hot wash
chambers that are linked with one another & horizontally inclined. Here temperature
is maintained is around 90'C.
Neutralizing chamber
After washing fabric goes through neutralizing chamber.Caustic make the fabric
highly alkaline so that is neutralized by the addition of aceticacid. For controlling ph
from control panel a command is given such as 7. Then the fabricwill takes this
amount of acetic acid which makes the fabric neutral by maintaining pH 7.
Cylinder Dryer
After washing & neutralizing for drying process 2 stage vertical cylinder dryer is
used. It is heated by steam. For course fabric the cylinder dryer temperature is around
1000
c .

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7.9.7 Mercerization Test
Barium Activity Number Test:
Barium activities test is done to know about the increasing % of absorbency of fabric
& depth of luster.By barium activity we can also see that, after mercerizing
remaining wax oil and other impurities are removed &strength is increased.
The Barium Activity Number is given as:
BAN = (B-M) / (B-C)*100
Where B = Volume of HCl (ml) required for blank titration
M = Volume of HCl (ml) required with mercerized cotton
C= Volume of HCl (ml) required with un-mercerized cotton
For completely mercerized cotton the value of BAN is around 155 and for semi
mercerized cotton it varies in between 115 and 130.

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CHAPTER 8
DYEING

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8.1 Dyeing
Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material through a dye (colour).
Dyes are obtained from flowers, nuts, berries and other forms of vegetables and
plants as well as from animal and mineral sources. These are known as natural dyes.
The other class of dyes is known as synthetic dyes. These are based on a particular
type of chemical composition. Some of these dyes are- Acid ( Anionic) dyes, Basic
( Cationic) dyes, Neutral- Premetalized dyes, sulfur dyes, vat dyes, reactive dyes,
pigment dyes etc.
8.2 Woven dyeing
Woven fabric is produced with interlacement of warp and weft yarn. The importance
of woven fabrics increases constantly. Starting from traditional uses mainly in
clothing applications, woven fabrics today are key materials for structural,
electronic, telecommunications, medical, aerospace and other technical application
fields. Woven fabric dyeing process is different from knit fabric dyeing process.
CPB/Thermosol/Jigger dyeing machine is used in woven dyeing.
8.3 Dyeing types
There are four types of dyeing,
1. Fiber Dyeing
2. Yarn Dyeing
3. Fabric Dyeing
4. Garment Dyeing
Dyes/pigment used in woven dyeing (south china Ltd.)
i. Reactive dyes
ii. Vat dyes
iii. Disperse dyes

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iv. Pigment
Here we discussed about woven fabric dyeing with different dyeing method by
reactive, vat, disperse, pigment dyes.
In south china there are three types of process are used like as
i. Cold pad batch (CPB)
ii. Thermosol process
iii. Jigger
8.4 Cold pad batch
It is the simple & easiest way of woven fabric dyeing. In this process only dark shade
can be produced successfully & economically. But limitation is medium or light
shade is difficult to match. It takes a long time because after dyeing it required
batching for 8 to 12 hours.

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8.4.1 Process flow of cold pad batch:
J-Trey
cooling room(17-200c)
Dye bath
Batching(10-12hr)
Open bath
Wash box -4(900c)
Soap wash-2(900c)
PH control
Cold wash
Cylinder Drying
Cold cylinder
Rolling

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8.4.2 Recipe for Reactive dyeing:
Dyes/ Chemical Amount
Novacron Blue TSGC 13.30 g/L
Levafix Amber CAN 6.60 g/L
Novacron Red C2Bl 2.80 g/L
Caustic soda (380
Be) 6.10 g/L
Soda 20 g/L
Urea 50 g/L
FFC 1 g/L
Dyes: Chemical 4:1
Fabric construction 128×60B
Properties
i. Flexible dyeing of short slots.
ii. Even coloration.
iii. Maximum dyestuff yield.
iv. Fast slot &color change.
v. Minimum rest liquor.
vi. Reproducibility of shade.
vii. Speed: - 60 yads/min

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8.4.3 Process Description with machine Steps
Fabric inlet
After mercerizing batcher is feed into the inlet of CPB machine. Where the fabric
is passed over some free roller & guider. Here there is a compensator to control
fabric open width entry & controlling fabric speed.
Mixing Tank:
Here dyes and chemical are mixed separately that was going to the dye bath for
fabric dyeing with required condition.
Dye bath:
Here chemical comes from storage tank to maintain even range on padding tank.
Here three bowl padding is occurred. Padding pressure is predetermined according
to pick up required & fabric speed. Dyes and chemical are mixed here at 4:1 ranges.

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Batching
After padding fabric is directly rolled in to batcher& packed with poly bag. Then it
goes for rotation of 8 – 12 hours for color fixing.
Hot Wash:
After batching the fabric need to proper wash. That’s why it was wash by wash
box at 900
c temperature for four times.
Soap wash:
After hot the next process is soap wash. The of soap is GW-420P.
PH control:
After washing neutralizing is done to control pH-7 of fabric. It is done by acetic
acid. For reactive only one neutralizing chamber is used after washing. Here
oxidation is not required.
Cylinder Drying:
Finally, the wet fabric need to drying for rolling. Cylinder temperature is 1000
c.
Then rolling is done.

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8.4.4 Typical Reactive dyes:
SL Color Name
1. Novacron Red -2G
2. Novacron Yellow C-5G
3. Colvazol Brill. Blue KN-RXN
4. Dychufix Black B H/C
5. Novacron DEEP Orange S-4R
6. Novacron Red C-2BL
7. LEVAFIX RED CA-N
8. BEZATIVE VIOLET V-5R
9. DYCHUFIX TURQUISE BLUE G
H/C
10. Novacron DEEP CHERRY S-D
8.5 Thermosol Process
Thermosol dyeing machine helps to improve production capacity. It does not
required rotation after padding. It must feed on pad steam for fixation just after
dyeing which gives finished product.
By thermosol process, there are sever types of dyeing are possible-
i. Vat dyeing
ii. Disperse dyeing (pad steam)
iii. Pigment dyeing
iv. Tc dyeing
It is a continuous process for dyeing a process. Production is higher than any other
dyeing process. So it is popular dyeing process in woven factory.

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8.5.1 Process Flow Chart:
Bleache/Brush Fabric
Dye bath
IR
Curing Chamber
Cooling can
Chemical bath
Pad Steam
Wash(open bath)
Oxidation-2(H2O2
Airing
Soap wash(800c)
Cold wash
PH control
Cold wash
Cylinder Drying
Rolling

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8.5.2 Vat dyeing Chemical Recipe:
For Light shade
Chemical Amount for 400L
NaCl 20 kg
NaOH 11.5 kg
Hydrose 21.5 kg
For medium shade
NaCl 20 kg
NaOH 14 kg
Hydrose 26.4 kg
For Dark shade
NaCl 20 kg
NaOH 20 kg
Hydrose 35 kg

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8.5.3 T/C Fabric Discharge Recipe:
Chemical name Amount
Caustic soda 28 g/L
Hydrose 50 g/L
Oxalic acid 12 g/L
Soda ash 10 g/L
Tri sodium phosphate 20 g/L
GW-425p 20 g/L
8.5.4 Typical Vat dyes:
SL Dyes
1. KEDANTHREN OLIVET
2. MIKETHREN BROWN GS
3. MIKETHREN BROWN M S/F
4. BEZATHREN OLIVE GREEN MW PS
5. INDANTREN VIOLET B COLLOISOL
6. TECHTREN OLIVE 5GF
7. BEZACTIVE BROWN BGR
8. TECHTREN YELLOW
9. TECHTREN RED
10. KEDANTHREN BROWN

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8.5.5 Operational procedure:
Fabric inlet section
After mercerizing batcher is feed into the inlet of thermosol machine.Where the
fabric is passed over some free roller, parpet roller & platter. Here there is a
compensator to control fabric open width entry & controlling fabric speed.
Chemical Mixing tank
In thermosol machine only dye stuff & wetting agent & migrating agent is used.
Dyes are dissolved separately from wetting & migrating agent then all are forced to
chemical storage tank as required & agitated for proper mixing.
Fig : Chemical mixing tank
Dye bath:
Here chemical comes from storage tank to maintain even range on padding tank.
Here three bowl padding is occurred. During padding the most common problem of
dyeing "listing problem” can be solved by adjusting pressure on left, right & middle
of padder. The layer of dyes keeps up to 50 liter& automatically dyes is come to dye
bath. Padder pressure are generally, 1.6, 2.5, 1.6.
Padder Brand Nanme: Kuster
Origin: Germany
Control Panel

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From control panel all types of instruction can be provide to the machinery. This
machine has a full manual control panel. The operator controls every process by
control switch.
Fig: Control Panel
Infrared Radiation:
After airing zone fabric pass over some free roller then enter in IR dryer. It is called
pre dryer. Here temperature is around 650-750'C.it can differ based on fabric speed
& type of fabric is processing. In thermosol there are two IR unit & each contain two
heating zone(flamer). Here fabric is dried up to 40%.
Hot air flow drying unit:
Fabric comes to this unit after predrying. Here there are three unit of heating. Each
contains two heater (gas type) & two blower. Temperature is taken is around 120-
130'C. If this flamer & blower is not work properly it will create listing problem.
Here there are few additional options like humidity control unit & cleaning unit.
When pad dry cure is performed in thermosol then humidity must be controlled. If
it can control, no need to use urea. Fabric contains different types of dust so when
hot water is blown it can make problem in heater & blower. So there is a screen unit

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so that dust can not goes in blower or heater. Smaller particles can be taken out
trough duct & release to environment. Here 30-35 meter fabric is remain.
Fig: curing chamber
Curing chamber
After drying the fabric is passed through curing chamber. Here the fabric is heated
from 150170'C in case of reactive & in case of disperse 180-2100
c. In this chamber
there are four layer of roller. And in this roller 80-85 meter fabric is remain for proper
heating & fixing the color of fabric.
Cooling Can:
After hot air flow drying fabric require a cooling. So fabric is passed over the cooling
roller. It is a stainless steel roller through which cold water is passed. There are two
cooling roller.

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J-Box
It is a space for keeping fabric. When the batch is completed, it is needed to change
& another empty batch roller is to be settled. Due to continuous dyeing process it is
not possible to stop the m/c. So during changing batch roller the fabric is stored in
J-BOX. And when new empty batch roller is settled, then the fabric is started to
batching.
Fig: J-Box
Chemical Bath:
Now fabric enter into the chemical bath. In chemical bath containing Hydrose,
NaOH, Na2CO3, Nacl, GW425. After taking chemical fabric enter into steam
chamber.
Steam chamber:
Here reducing of vat dye occurred at 1000
c temperature and present of reducing
chemical hydrose and steam are passing through the chamber.
Re- Oxidation:
At the present of H2O2 Re oxidation occurred of vat dye due to fixation of vat dye
into the fabric permanently.
Testing required during Thermosol operation

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▪ Pick up testing
▪ Shade listing identification.
▪ Shade listing identification (Shade variation)
After each 1000 meter shade is tested in light box. Here listing problem is visualized
& can be solved by increasing or decreasing left, centre or right padder pressure.
Suppose in left color is lighter then lower the pressure of left side.
Fig: Shade listing identification.
8.6 Exhaust Process
Dyeing (Exhaust) is a chemical process by which textile substrates are immersed
in liquor containing dyestuffs & chemicals by which the dyestuffs are transferred
to textile substrates in a proper manner.
8.6.1 Objective
▪ A dye trough design ensuring minimum possible liquor ratio
▪ Fabric rope monitoring control system for precise calculation and control of
the fabric speed and tension.
▪ Uniform dyeing conditions in the dye trough, independent of the batch size.
▪ Water meter for controlled rinsing

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▪ Dosing of dyes and chemicals dependent on the fabric length passing
through the dye bath
The exhaust process is done in jigger dyeing m/c which can be called
pressurized jigger m/c.
8.6.2 Jigger Dyeing:
Jigg or jigger dyeing machine is one of the oldest dyeing machine used for cloth
dyeing operations. Jigger machine is suitable for dyeing of woven fabrics, up to
boiling temperature without any creasing . Jigs exert considerable lengthwise tension
on the fabric and are more suitable for the dyeing of woven than knitted fabrics.
Since the fabric is handled in open-width, a jig is very suitable for fabrics which
crease when dyed in rope form.
Fig: Jigger dyeing machine
Some wovens are conveniently dyed on jigger are ,
 Taffettas
 Plain wovens
 Satins
 Poplins
 Ducks
 Suiting and Shirting material.
 Sheetings etc.
But have limited application on fabrics which are tension sensitive such as crepes,
flat crepes, knits , net fabrics and elastomeric warps etc.

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8.6.3 Dyeing Process by Jigger Dyeing Machine:
The dyeing process on jigger is regarded as a series of intermittent padding operation
followed by dwelling periods on the main roller , during which the dyeing action and
diffusion takes place. The factors controlling the rate of dye absorption are:
1. The amount of interstitial dye liquor retained in the interstices of the fabric
weave.
2. The exhaustion of the interstitial liquor in the dwell period between successive
immersions.
3. The degree of interchange of liquor during one immersion (interchange
factor).
In the dyeing on jigger machines the cloth revolves on two main rollers , The open-
width fabric passes from one roller through the dyebath at the bottom of the
machine and then onto a driven take-up roller on the other side. When all the fabric
has passed through the bath, the direction is reversed . Each passage is called an
end. Dyeing always involves an even number of ends. The dye bath has one or

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more guide rollers , around which the cloth travels , and during this immersion
achieves the desired contact with the dye liquor. During this passage the fabric
picks up adequate quantity of dye liquor , excess of which is drained out but still a
good quantity is held in the fabric . During rotation of rollers this dye penetrates
and diffuse into the fabric. The real dyeing takes place not in the dye liquor but
when the cloth is on the rollers, since only a very small length of fabric is in the
dyebath and major part is on the rollers . Therefore the speed of cloth during
immersion in dye liquor has a very little effect on percentage of shade produced.
Some critical problems related to the conventional jigger dyeing machines ( which
are minimized in the modern day machines) The major problems are side-to-centre
color variations, called listing, and lengthways color variations, called ending.
Other problems are:
 Temperature control from side-to-side and end-to-end of the roll
 Tension control from end-to-end
 Constant speed control from end-to-end
 Prevention of creases
 Prevention of air
Limitations of Jigger Dyeing
1. Jigs exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric and are more suitable
for the dyeing of woven than knitted fabrics.
2. In textile preparation due to the swelling and dissolution of size, which makes
the fabric slippery and unstable in roll form.
3. The low liquor ratio makes washing-off difficult.
4. There is little mechanical action in a jig machine and it is less suitable where
vigorous scouring is required before dyeing.
5. Moiré effects or water marks may arise on some acetate and nylon fabrics
because of pressure flattening the structure of the rolled fabric.

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8.7 Typical Dyeing Faults:
▪ Color uneven
▪ Long stripe
▪ Color line
▪ Knots, slub
▪ White spot
▪ Color spot
▪ Sewing spot
▪ Yellow bar
▪ Crease mark
▪ Listing
8.8 Solution of dyeing fault
Different types of fault can arise during dyeing which can be solved by the
following process.
▪ Topping
▪ Stripping
8.8.1 Topping
In dyeing process firstly the color is matched in lab in it comes to production.During
production at first a sample is run. If it match then goes for production. But still few
problems arise after few meters due to uneven picking shade is varied from original
one. It becomes lighter or darker. Some times more reddish or greenish. This type
of problem is solved by tropping.If the shade is lighter then addition is done &
darker dilution can be done. But during tropping the ratio of dye & chemical is 1:4.

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A typical Recipe of topping
128x56/16x10 twill fabrics dyed in CPB. 15% light.
▪ Nova yellow NP:0.5 gm/lt
▪ Nova red CP: 0.5 gm/lt
▪ Soda Ash -15 gm/lt
▪ Caustic -5 gm/lt
▪ Albaflow pad (wetting)-2 gm/lt
8.8.2 Stripping
If the shade is widely varied from the original one then the fabric goes through
stripping. It is the process by which the color of dyed fabric is removed & makes it
white for redyeing. The fabric strength become lower for that additional hard finish
is required. Another problem is a stripe fabric can only dyed in dark shade, light
shade is not possible.

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CHAPTER 9
PRINTING

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9.1 Textile Printing
Textile printing involves the production of a predetermined coloured pattern on a
fabric, usually with a definite repeat. It can be described as a localised form of
dyeing, applying colorant to selected areas of the fabric to build up the design.
Textile Printing, like Textile dyeing, is a process for applying color to a substrate.
However, instead of coloring the whole substrate (cloth, carpet or yarn) as in dyeing,
print color is applied only to defined areas to obtain the desired pattern. This involves
different techniques and different machinery with respect to dyeing, but the physical
and chemical processes that take place between the dye and the fiber are analogous
to dyeing.
Fig: Rotary screen Roller
9.2 Pigment Printing
Pigment printing has gained much importance today and for some fibers (e.g.
cellulose fibers) is by far the most commonly applied technique. Pigments can be
used on almost all types of textile substrates and, thanks to increased performance
of modern auxiliaries, it is now possible to obtain high-quality printing using this
technique.
Pigment printing pastes contain a thickening agent, a binder and, if necessary,
other auxiliaries such as fixing agents, plasticizers, defoamers, etc.
White spirit-based emulsions, used in the past as thickening systems, are used only

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occasionally today (mainly half-emulsion thickeners).
After applying the printing paste, the fabric is dried and then the pigment is
normally fixed with hot air (depending on the type of binder in the formulation,
fixation can also be achieved by storage at 20°C for a few days). The advantage of
pigment printing is that the process can be done without subsequent washing
(which, in turn, is needed for most of the other printing techniques).
9.2.1 Printing Paste Preparation
Dye Printing process traditionally starts with the preparation of the paste.
Compared to pigment printing, the composition of the pastes is more complex and
variable, being determined not by the dye used, but by the printing technique, the
substrate, the application and the fixation methods applied.
Apart from the dye, printing pastes contain a thickening agent and various other
auxiliaries, which can be classified according to their function as follows:
 Oxidizing agents (e.g. m-nitrobenzenesulphonate, sodium chlorate, hydrogen
peroxide)
 Reducing agents (e.g. sodium dithionite, formaldehyde sulphoxylates,
thiourea dioxide, tin(II) chloride)
 Discharging agents for discharge printing (e.g. anthraquinone)
 Substances with a hydrotropic effect, like urea
 Dye solubilisers, which are polar organic solvents like glycerine, ethylen
glycol, butyl glycol, thiodiglycol, etc.
 Resists for reactive resist printing (e.g. sulphonated alkanes)
Defoamers, (e.g. silicon compounds, organic and inorganic esters, aliphatic esters,
etc.).All the necessary ingredients are metered (dosed) and mixed together in a
mixing station. Since between 5 and 10 different printing pastes are usually
necessary to print a single pattern (in some cases up to 20 different pastes are
applied), in order to reduce losses, due to incorrect measurement, the preparation of
the pastes is done in automatic stations. In modern plants, with the help of special
devices, the exact amount of printing paste require is determined and prepared in

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continuous mode for each printing position, thus reducing leftovers at the end of the
run.
It is common practice in many printing houses to filter the printing pastes before
application, using for example a filter cloth. This operation is especially important
for thickeners to prevent free particles from blocking the openings of the screens.
9.2.2 Paste preparation:
Paste ingredients Amount (100L)
Urea 2%
Fixer 0.05%
De-foaming agent 0.02%
Thickener 4%
Binder 12% (1kg)

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9.3 Printing Process Flow:
9.4 Rotary Screen Printing:
Some people think rotary screen print is flat printing process because the
substrates are usually flat and decorated in a horizontal position. Rotary screen
printing is also related with piece decorating applications where individual sheets
of substrate are printed one by one, usually on semi and three-quarter-automatic
flatbed presses that require manual loading or unloading. So far throughput
continues to be limited because every sheet of substrate still must pause at each
printing station to receive the icon. The good news is that you don’t have to
sacrifice the remuneration of screen print to overcome the limits of flatbed
Design by computer
Hand strike off
Bulk production
Pigment printing
Curing
Stenter soft
Sanforizing
Rolling

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printing technology. For many applications requiring competent, high volume,
high quality printing and rotary screen print may be the best answer. In rotary
printing the web movements at a constant speed between the screen and a steel
impression roller immediately below the screen. As the web passes through the
rotary unit the screen spin at a rate that identically matches the speed of substrate
movement.
Fig: Rotary screen printing
The squeegee on a rotary press is in a fixed position with its edge making contact
with the inside surface of the screen accurately at the point where the screen,
substrate, and impression roller come together.
9.4.1 Characteristics of Rotary Print Screen:
1. It’s very easy to screen print, on the material
2. Not required to skilled labor for screen print.
3. Print screen help designer to develop the system
4. Not required to much time for screen print,
5. It’s not hazardous for screen print,
6. Relief printing option

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9.4.2 Machine Specification:
Attribute Name Value
Product Category Printing
Machine Category Vertical Screen Print Machine
Product Model Based on Manufacturer
Origin China
Capacity 18
Production Capacity 300 M/M
Squeezer Blade/ Rod
9.4.3 Printing Techniques by Rotary Screen Print :
Screen Print

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Therefore as the printing techniques using ink is squeeze by pressure from the
inside of the cylindrical mesh by way of a rubber squeegee, it exits through the
open mesh that was masked during the photo coverage. The printing techniques
using ink used in this process are quite opaque and rich colors are achievable. It
is important that the printing techniques using ink is fully dry before the paper
reaches the next print station and ensuring no show through or smudging of the
inks from the color underneath. It does have the benefit of being cheaper, due
chiefly to it being a continuous print process and rotary screen print is applicable
for t-shirt, shirt design, relief printing and t shirt designs. To make printing
colorful we need to buy Multicolor Screen Printing Machine.
9.5 Typical Pigment used:
SL Pigment
1. HELIZARIN GREEN-FFBT
2. SILIAN G-13 SERISE
3. IMPERON YELLOW
4. QUALIPERON RED
5. BEZAFLUOR VIOLET
6. IMPERON BLACK
7. QUALIPERON BLACK

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CHAPTER 10
FINISHING

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10.1 Textile Finishing
Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing. In
order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is
customary to subject the material to different type of physical and chemical
treatments. For example wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to
make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing, flame
retardant, water repellent, water proof, antistatic finish, peach finish etc are some
of the important finishes applied to textile fabric.
Broadly it can be classified into following classes,which are used individually or in
combination with each other. (other terms are also used such as wet finishing, dry
finishing, durable finishes and non durable finishes)
10.2 Finishing Types:
Finishing
Chemical
Soft Hard
Wrinkle
Free
Water Proof Fire Proof
Mechanical
Brushing Calendaring Sanforizing

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10.3 Process Flow in Finishing Department:
10.4 Stenter Machine
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the
stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions
and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also
shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric
widthwise and to recover the uniform width.
Dyed/Printed/Bleached
fabric
Stenter
Sanforizing

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Fig: Stenter Machine
10.4.1 Functions of Stenter Machines:
1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.
2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
6. Spirility controlled by the stenter.
7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.

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10. Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.
10.4.2 Components of Stenter Machine:
1. Paders
2. Weft straightner (Mahlo)
3. Burners 10
4. Heat recovery
5. Attraction rollers
6. Circulating fans 10,8
7. Exhaust fans 2
8. Winder 2
9. Clips
10.Pins
11.I.R
12.Cooling drums 2
10.4.3 Working Procedure of Stenter Machine:
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the
padders where the finishes are applied and some times shade variation is
corrected.The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the
mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins
are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the
selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are greater than the clips.these clips and pins
are joined to endless chain.there are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each
chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.the
circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all
the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch the warp
yarn. After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch.The
speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each
chamber.temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for,
1. PC 210 c
2. Cotton 110-130 c
After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c.

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10.4.4 Specification of a Stenter Machine:
Machine Atributes Value
Brand Name MONFONGS
Origin Germany
Setup Temp. 1700
c
No. Of chamber 10
Function Chemical finish/ Pigment dyeing
Maximum fabris width 61/62 yads
M/C parts Hot Oil, Nozzle, Exhaust air fan, Over
feed roller, Suction fan, Chain
arrangement
Chain system pin
10.5 Sanforizing Machine:
The machine used for the sanforizing process is called "Sanforizing Machine".
Sanforizing Machine means a machine consisting of a large steam-heated
cylinder, an endless, thick, woolen felt blanket which is in close contact with the
cylinder for most of its perimeter, and an electrically heated shoe which presses
the cloth against the blanket while the latter is in a stretched condition as it curves
around feed-in roll.
10.5.1 Sanforizing Process
Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent
the normal dimensional alternation of warp and weft. It is also called anti-shrinkage
finishing process. It is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and also
for some other textiles made from natural and synthetic fibres. It is a method of
stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before
cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after
wash.

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Fig: Schematic diagram
10.5.2 Principle
 Sanforizing process is based on the principle that when an elastic felt blanket
is passed around a metal roller in contact with it, its outer surface is process
extended and the inner surface contracted. So the process is called controlled
compressive shrinkage process.
 The process of sanforizing includes the stretching and manipulation of the
fabric before it is washed.
 During the sanforization process, the fabric is fed into a sanforizing machine
where it is treated with water or steam to promote shrinkage, then pressed
against a heated rubber band to relax and re-contract the fibers.
 The amount of potential wash shrinkage must be determined prior to
shrinking. A full width sample is wash-tested according to the test method.
After the lengthwise and width wise shrinkage has been determined, the
compressive shrinkage machine can be adjusted accordingly.
 The cloth is continually fed into the sanforizing machine and therein
moistened with either water or steam. A rotating cylinder presses a rubber
sleeve against another, heated, rotating cylinder. Thereby the sleeve briefly
gets compressed and laterally expanded, afterwards relaxing to its normal
thickness. The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber sleeve and
heated cylinder and is forced to follow this brief compression and lateral
expansion, and relaxation. It thus gets shrunk.
 The greater the pressure applied to the rubber sleeve, the bigger the shrinking
afterwards. The process may be repeated.

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Schematic Process
The process of Sanforizing can be described by the following schematic below:
 Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is
moistened by water and/or steam. This will lubricate the fibers and promote
shrink ability within the fabric.
 Fabric is moistened in such a way that every single thread achieves a moisture
content of approximately 15%.
 Above step allows compression of the fabric with very little resistance.
 When the fabric passes through the clip expander (C), we obtain the required
width. The clip expander also transports the fabric to the most important part
of the machine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows in above figure).
 In the close-up of above figure, we see the endless rubber belt (R). By
squeezing rubber belt (R) between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder
(RB), we obtain an elastically stretching of the rubber belt surface.
 The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the more the surface is stretched. This
point of squeezing is known as the pressure zone, or the nip point.
 Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone.

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 When leaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itself and the surface
returns to its original length carrying the fabric with it. The effect of this action
is a shorting of the warp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together. At
this actual moment, shrinkage occurs.
 After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D).
Here the fibers are locked in their shrunken state by removing the moisture
from the fabric.
 After the compressive shrinkage process is completed, another sample of the
fabric is taken. This sample is also wash-tested. The final result of this test
must meet the Sanforized Standard, in length and width before it may carry
the Sanforized label.
 All Sanforized Licensees are contractually obligated to follow the required
test method and meet the standards set forth by The Sanforized Company.
10.6 Sueding/Brushing Finishing Process:
Sueding is a mechanical finishing process in which a fabric is abraded on one or
both sides to raise or create a fibrous surface. This operation is often carried out
before the raising process to reduce the friction between the fibres making up the
cloth and consequently to facilitate the extraction of the fibre end.
The sueding process is carried out on both sides of the fabric and modifies the
appearance and the final hand of the cloth; when touched it gives a soft and smooth
sensation similar to the one given by a peach-grain surface.
The sueding machine is made up of some rotating rollers coated with abrasive
paper, which emerise the cloth and produce a more or less marked effect
depending upon the pressure exerted on the fabric by the abrasive rollers. The
abrasive paper used can vary according to the desired sueding degree and must be
replaced after a given number of operating hours, or when it does not properly
carry out suitably the sueding function. In some cases, it is possible to use also
metal rollers with the surface coated with uneven and rough grains or pumice
rollers performing an excellent sueding action on both dry or wet fabrics. For a
very superficial sueding, the natural abrasive power of pumice can be applied with
successful results.

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Sueding Finishing Process:
Sueding is a mechanical finishing process in which a fabric is abraded on one or
both sides to raise or create a fibrous surface. This operation is often carried out
before the raising process to reduce the friction between the fibres making up the
cloth and consequently to facilitate the extraction of the fibre end.
The sueding process is carried out on both sides of the fabric and modifies the
appearance and the final hand of the cloth; when touched it gives a soft and smooth
sensation similar to the one given by a peach-grain surface.
The sueding machine is made up of some rotating rollers coated with abrasive paper,
which emerise the cloth and produce a more or less marked effect depending upon
the pressure exerted on the fabric by the abrasive rollers. The abrasive paper used
can vary according to the desired sueding degree and must be replaced after a given
number of operating hours, or when it does not properly carry out suitably the
sueding function. In some cases, it is possible to use also metal rollers with the
surface coated with uneven and rough grains or pumice rollers performing an
excellent sueding action on both dry or wet fabrics. For a very superficial sueding,
the natural abrasive power of pumice can be applied with successful results.
Gray fabrics as well as dyed ones can be subjected to the sueding process; the cloth
to be emerised must be completely free from any finishing resin or adhesive

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substance remaining on the fabric surface after desizing. The sueding process
reduces mechanic and dynamometric resistance of the fabric, thus making it more
subject to tearing and seaming.
The fabric can run at different speeds inside the sueding unit; a smooth pressure is
kept thanks to two balancing arms assembled at the entry and at the exit of the unit.
The pieces of cloth must be sewn with abrasion-resistant material such as polyester
or nylon. The gears must be suitably cleaned with compressed air jets since the
presence of pile residues could clog the ball bearings or drop again on the fabric
surface thus creating some problems with dyeing machines filters.
The sueding process, which can affect the fabric with a very wide range of effects,
can give some problem when applied to knitted tubular goods but it.s widely used
on woven fabrics with different weights and weaves (its application ranges from
coarse jeans cloth to light and delicate silk or microfibre, coated fabrics and
imitation leather).
The sueding unit is equipped with 6 rollers performing the sueding action on the
face of the fabric and 1 roller performing its action of the back of the fabric; an
advantage of this system is the possibility to use sueding cloths with different
grains on each single roller. Thanks to three dandy rollers, the sueding action can
be automatically adjusted during the fabric processing thus allowing the sueding
process to be carried out also on knitted goods.

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CHAPTER 11
QUALITY ASSURANCE

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11.1 Quality
Quality means customer needs is to be satisfied. Failure to maintain an adequate
quality standard can therefore be unsuccessful. But maintaining an adequate
standard of quality also costs effort. From the first investigation to find out what
the potential customer for a new product really wants, through the processes of
design, specification, controlled manufacture and sale.
There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based
such as - performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the
garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.
11.2 Assurance:
The act of giving confidence, the state of being certain or the act of making certain.
11.3 Quality Assurance:
The planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality system so that
quality requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled.
11.4 Control:
An evaluation to indicate needed corrective responses; the act of guiding a process
in which variability is attributable to a constant system of chance causes.
11.5 Quality Control:
The observation techniques and activities used to fulfill requirements for quality.
11.6 Objectives:
The main objectives of inspection is the-
1. Detection of Defects
2. Correcting of defect or defective garments as early as possible in the
manufacturing process so that time and money are not wasted later.

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11.7 Fabric Inspection Method:
Fabric is inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality view point.
There are various fabric inspection system such as-
 4- point system
 10- point system
 2.5- point system etc.
4-Point System:
The 4- point system is widely used for fabric inspection, in the united states it is
known as AAMA point grading system (AAMA- American Apparel manufacturers
association).
Procedure of Four Point System:
1. Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machineries.
2. These machineries are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind
the inspection table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave the table.

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3. Inspection machineries are either power driver or the inspector pulls the fabric
over the inspection table.
4. The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form.
5. Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of fabric
(meter/yard).
Fig: Inspection machine
11.8 Fabric defects point values based on the following:
Length of defect in Fabric Points allotted
Up to 3 inch 1
Over 3 inch up to 6 inch 2
Over 6 inch up to 9 inch 3
Over 9 inch 4
Holes and Opening
1 or less 2
Over 1 inch 4

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Calculations and Result:
Total defect points per 100 yard square are calculated.
If fabric rolls contains less than 40 points per 100 yard square are considered
“first” quality and as an Acceptance criteria.
If fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 yards square are considered
“second”.
Example:
A fabric roll 130 yard long and 45 inch wide contains the following defects:-
6 defects up to 3 inch- ...................................6 X 1 = 6 points
5 defects over 3 inch but less 6 inch- ............. 5 X 2 = 10 points
2 defects over 6 inch but less 9 inch- ..............3 X 2 = 6 points
1 defects over 9 inch- ....................................1 X 4 = 4 points
1 hole over 1 inch dimensions- .......................1 X 4 = 4 points
………………………………………………………………………………………
Total defect points................................................= 30 points
Therefore,
Points per 100 yard square =
Total points scored in roll X 36 inch
……………………………………………………………… X 100
Fabric width/inches X Total length yard inspected
30 X 36
= ……………………… X 100
130 X 45
= 18.4 (Defect points per 100 yard square.)
So, the roll is Accepted.

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Check sheet or Inspection Format:
To record or to collects defects during inspection you must use a simple check sheet.
A check sheet includes general details, details of fabric lot, fabric defects according
their sizes, summary of fabric defects, quantity inspected and total penalty points
and result of the fabric lot after inspection. Use tally marking for recording of
number of defects. A sample 4-point system fabric inspection format has been
attached at the bottom.

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11.9 Types of defects found in fabric:
Fabric checker should know common defects found in fabrics and he must recognize
defects on the fabric at the time of fabric inspection. Here bellow the faults.
Fabric Defects Source of Defects
Slubs, Slubby Weft,
Colored flecks, Knots,
Broken filaments
Due to flaws in yarns or
filaments.
Missing end, Oily or Soiled ends,
Floats, Weft Crack, Weft Bar,
Oily Weft, Box Marks, Slough Off,
Broken ends woven in bunch,
Stitches, Snarls, Gout, Broken
Pattern, Oily and strains,
Holes,Cuts, Local distortion,
Selvedge defect, Lashing –in,
Untrimmed loose threads, Double
ends, Reed mark
These defects occur during
weaving process. Some defects
are related to loom, cleanliness
of the loom and work areas,
improper handling of loom and
raw materials.
Bleaching spots, Water mark,
Dyestuff Stain,White spots,
Patchy or streaky uneven dyeing,
Dye Bar, Shading & listing printing,
Misprint or absence of prints,
Defects caused by hanging thread,
Doctors line, Blurred or Dark patch,
Bowing piling and raising defects,
Piling and milling, Mill rigs, Uneven
millingBroken embroidery design

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CHAPTER 12
CENTRAL LABORATORY

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12.1 Lab dip / Sample Dyeing:
A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. It is a process by
which buyer’s supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the
laboratory with or without help of spectrophotometer. Lab dip plays an important
role in shade matching & this is an important task before bulk production. In
previous article of this author we have to learn on flow chart on dyeing lab.
12.2 Light Source for matching Lab Dip:
i. D65
ii. TL-84
iii. TL-83
iv. UV light
12.3 Object of Lab Dip:
1. To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
2. To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectrophotometer.
3. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
4. Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A, B, C & D)
12.4 There are four types of Lab Dip are making in south china:
i. CPB
ii. VAT
iii. Pigment
iv. Disperse

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12.5 CPB process Sequences:
Swatch receive
Recipe
Formulation
Dyes and
chemical mixing
Padding
Batching
Cold wash
Hot wash
cold wash
Hydro-extractor
Drying
Finishing
chemical apply
Padding
Drying
Shade matching

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Recipe Formulation:
After receiving swatch from buyer, they formulate recipe from data-color.
Depends on data-color recipe at first produced lab dip.
Fig: Spectrophotometer
Recipe for reactive dyeing:
Dyes/chemical Amount
Dyes 5 gm/100ml
Na2CO3 8/100ml
NaOH 0.25/100ml
Urea 2.5 gm/100ml
Wetting agent 2gm/100ml
Padding:
For impregnation of dyes into fabric need to padded properly in padding mangle
for two times.

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Fig: Padding mangle
Batching:
For CPB dyeing it is necessary to batch for 45-55 min at temperature 550
± 2 by
rapping into a roller.
Than one cold wash and three times hot wash and finally one-time hot wash.
After washing is completing need to extraction of water by hydro extractor.
Drying is going on at temperature 150-1600
c. Then Finishing chemical applied
and final drying completed.
Shade Matching:
Than the sample going through shade matching in light box under different
light source as per buyer requirement.
Fig: Light box

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12.6 VAT/ Thermosol Process:
Dyes and chemical mixing
Padding
Steaming
Oxidation
Soaping
De-Watering
Drying
Finishing
Drying
Shade matching

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12.6.1 Recipe for Thermosol:
Dyes/Chemical Amount
Dyes 2 gm
Levelling Agent 10 ml
Wetting agent 2 ml
Water Rest out of 100 ml
Curing 130-140 0
c for 2 min
Hydrose 75g
NaOH 100 ml
Steaming 100 0
c
H2O2 10 g/l (50%)
DDC & Na2CO3 5 -6 g/l
Drying 150-160 0
c

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12.7 Pigment Process
12.7.1 Pigment Recipe:
Pigment/Chemical Amount
Pigment X gm
Binder Pigment×40%
Levelling agent 10 ML
Wetting agent 2 ML
Water Others+ water= 100 ML
Color &
paste mixing
Padding
Drying

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Dyes Mixing:
For proper mixing of dyes into water need to proper agitation. For this reason,
mixing machine is necessary.
Fig: Mixing Machine
12.8 ANALYTICAL DEPARTMENT
12.8.1 Dyes quality verification:
Applicable test for dyes quality verification are as follows:
i. Reactive dyes
ii. Disperse dyes
iii. Vat dyes
iv. Pigment dyes

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