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Earth’s AtmosphereEarth’s Atmosphere
and Oceansand Oceans
Currents, Waves and CoastlinesCurrents, Waves and Coastlines
Ocean Currents:Ocean Currents:
the motions of oceansthe motions of oceans
(sorry, couldn’t resist the bad rhyme!)(sorry, couldn’t resist the bad rhyme!)
• Causes:Causes:
– Tides – gravitational pull from moon and sunTides – gravitational pull from moon and sun
causes predictable tidal currentscauses predictable tidal currents
– Wind – Surface CurrentsWind – Surface Currents
– Thermohaline Circulation (density differences)Thermohaline Circulation (density differences)
= Deep Currents= Deep Currents
Surface CurrentsSurface Currents
• Rotate due to CoriolisRotate due to Coriolis
• Create Gyres –circles of moving waterCreate Gyres –circles of moving water
within the oceanswithin the oceans
– Clockwise – Northern HemisphereClockwise – Northern Hemisphere
– Counterclockwise – Southern HemisphereCounterclockwise – Southern Hemisphere
GyresGyres
• GyresGyres
Gyres and Surface CurrentsGyres and Surface Currents
UpwellingUpwelling
• formation of upwellingformation of upwelling
What is upwelling?What is upwelling?
• Subsurface water rises to surfaceSubsurface water rises to surface
• Characteristics:Characteristics:
– ColderColder
– Rich in nutrientsRich in nutrients
– Biologically productive = Good fishingBiologically productive = Good fishing
Major Areas of UpwellingMajor Areas of Upwelling
Global Conveyor beltGlobal Conveyor belt
Thermohaline CirculationThermohaline Circulation
BeginsBegins
• Surface and Deep Ocean CurrentsSurface and Deep Ocean Currents
Idealized “conveyor belt”Idealized “conveyor belt”
model of oceanmodel of ocean
circulationcirculation
Ocean WavesOcean Waves
• What makes big waves?What makes big waves?
– Wind – speed and durationWind – speed and duration
– Fetch – distance that a wave has to growFetch – distance that a wave has to grow
Breaking WavesBreaking Waves
• Friction between sea floor and waterFriction between sea floor and water
• Waves become too steepWaves become too steep
• Breakers formBreakers form
The basic parts andThe basic parts and
movement of a non-movement of a non-
breaking wavebreaking wave
Changes that occur whenChanges that occur when
a wave moves onto shorea wave moves onto shore
Beach Construction/DestructionBeach Construction/Destruction
• Swash and BackwashSwash and Backwash
Wave refraction along anWave refraction along an
irregular coastlineirregular coastline
Beach drift andBeach drift and
longshore currentslongshore currents
Example of Longshore DriftExample of Longshore Drift
Shoreline ErosionShoreline Erosion
– Tucker Island Lighthouse, NJ, 1927Tucker Island Lighthouse, NJ, 1927
Rip CurrentsRip Currents
• Rip CurrentsRip Currents
Coastal Erosion CausesCoastal Erosion Causes
• Storm wavesStorm waves
• Long shore driftLong shore drift
• Storm surgeStorm surge
• Winter stormsWinter storms
• Human-Induced CausesHuman-Induced Causes
Human-Induced CoastalHuman-Induced Coastal
ErosionErosion
• Removing vegetation and protectiveRemoving vegetation and protective
dunesdunes
• Building “protective” structuresBuilding “protective” structures
• River modification and dredgingRiver modification and dredging
JettiesJetties
Lo5 waves,currents,coasts
Lo5 waves,currents,coasts
Which direction is longshore drift?Which direction is longshore drift?
Which direction is the longshore drift?Which direction is the longshore drift?
SummerSummer ––
The lower waves of summer build sandThe lower waves of summer build sand
onshore and widen the beach.onshore and widen the beach.
WinterWinter -- Higher winter waves moveHigher winter waves move
sand offshore and narrow the beach.sand offshore and narrow the beach.
Dune StabilizationDune Stabilization
COASTAL EROSIONCOASTAL EROSION
Marine TerracesMarine Terraces
Sea archSea arch
Sea stackSea stack
Coastal DepositionCoastal Deposition
SpitSpit
Lo5 waves,currents,coasts
Baymouth BarBaymouth Bar
Aerial view of a spit andAerial view of a spit and
baymouth bar along thebaymouth bar along the
Massachusetts coastlineMassachusetts coastline
Barrier IslandsBarrier Islands
• Long, narrow islands paralleling shorelineLong, narrow islands paralleling shoreline
• Protected salt water bays behindProtected salt water bays behind
• Protect mainlandProtect mainland
• Naturally transientNaturally transient
Fire Island migrationFire Island migration
Miami Beach beforeMiami Beach before
beach nourishmentbeach nourishment
Miami Beach afterMiami Beach after
beach nourishmentbeach nourishment
EstuariesEstuaries
MajorMajor
estuariesestuaries
along thealong the
East CoastEast Coast
of theof the
UnitedUnited
StatesStates
The EndThe End
TomboloTombolo

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Lo5 waves,currents,coasts