I put this guide together so you would come and visit us.

1. Your Personal Guide to Bogota:
Seriously...Come
Seriously...Come & Visit Us.
Catedral Primada & Plaza Simone Bolivar, Candelaria – Bogota: Paula Fynboh

2. Table of Contents
Purpose of Your Personal Guide to Bogota, Disclaimer and FAQ’s Page 2
Travel Page 3
• Flights from the United States
• Entering the Country
• Getting around when you’re here
Lodging Page 5
• Our place
• VRBO’s (Vacation Rental By Owner) in our neighborhood
• Hotels & Hostels
Things to Do & See: Bogota Page 6
• Our “Top Twelve” List
• Restaurants & Night life
In addition to Bogota... Page 12
• Day trips
• Two to Four Days Trips
Sample Itineraries Page 14
• Bogota for Foodies
• Bogota for Artists
• Bogota like the Locals Do It
• Kid-Friendly Bogota
• Colonial Colombia
When to Visit & What to Bring Page 18
• Special events
• Sample packing list
Budgeting Page 20
• General costs
• Exchange rate
More Resources that will Give You a Taste for Colombia Page 21
It:
Don’t Take Our Word for It: Words & Advice from Our Recent Visitors Page 22
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3. Bogota”
Purpose of “Your Personal Guide to Bogota”
Quite selfishly, my goals in creating this guide are three fold:
1) To get you excited about coming to Bogota;
2) To show you that Colombia is accessible and that coming to visit us is perfectly
doable; and,
3) To have you come & visit us.
Colombia is really an amazing country, but I don’t want to white wash it. Much like the
United States (or anywhere for that matter), it is home to complex problems, but it is also
home to many wonderful things.
Most of the Colombians I’ve met are eager to help and anxious to challenge the
stereotypes people have of their country. They get dismayed that there is not a travel
article out there that doesn’t reference the problems of the past and I am always struck by
how curious Colombians are about our families and friends’ reactions to us moving here.
They say, “Bring your family and friends here to see for themselves. Help change the way
the rest of the world sees us.”
So with that in mind...when are you coming to visit???
Disclaimer
Please note that this is not a comprehensive travel guide. In fact, it is not really a travel
guide at all. Rather, this guide simply reflects our experiences living here to date & things
that we want to share with you. I hope it gives you an idea of what to expect & offers
some suggestions you won’t find elsewhere, but it is based simply on our opinion and our
opinion only.
Also, I put this guide together after living in Bogota for only four months. There is still a lot
out there that I have to see & experience. I will update this document as new discoveries
unfold.
Just to Clear the Air – Answers to Our Most Commonly Asked Questions
“Is Colombia safe?” Yes. Colombia has invested A LOT of time, energy & resources into
security and the security situation has greatly improved. This is not the Colombia of the
‘80s & ‘90s.
“Will I get kidnapped?” No. Please see above.
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4. First of all, welcome to Bogota! We’re so glad you are coming to visit us! We can’t wait
to show you around the city!
Travel
Bogota is not a hard or difficult place to travel too. It’s a modern South American city,
slightly bigger than Chicago, and just a three to four hour flight from US cities such as
Miami, Atlanta & Houston. Bogota is surrounded by the lush green Andes Mountains and
has an elevation of 8,500 feet (Denver is about 5,000 feet). Colombia does not
participate in day light savings, so depending on the time of year you choose to visit it will
either be Eastern Standard Time (October – April) or Central Standard Time (April –
October).
• Flights from the United States Most major US carriers fly to Bogota & most flights
States.
from the US will arrive from Atlanta, Houston, New York or Miami. In addition to
checking with the major carriers and sites like Orbitz, also try Spirit Airlines as they
have some good deals. Avianca is a good local airline that might be worth looking
into as well. Avianca flies from Bogota to Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Ft.
Lauderdale, Miami, Orlando, New York (JFK), San Francisco & Washington DC.
Resources
http://www.orbitz.com/App/PrepareFlightsTab
http://www.delta.com/
http://www.continental.com/web/en-US/default.aspx
http://www.spirit.com/Default.aspx
http://www.avianca.com/
• Entering the Country. You do not need a VISA or any special documents, shots or
Country.
medications to enter the Country. Colombians love visitors and the chance to show
you a side of Colombia that wasn’t in the headlines 10 to 15 years ago. All you
need to enter Colombia is a current passport & an open mind.
• Getting around when you’re here. Transportation within the Country is affordable
here.
and easy to access. There are a variety of options you can use while you’re here &
they include local airlines (if you want to visit other Colombian cities), private
drivers, car rental, taxi cabs, colectivos (public buses), the transmilenio (the closest
thing to a subway system), and your own feet.
Resources
Internal flights to other Colombian cities (highly recommend 2 to 4 day visits
include Cartagena, Cali & Medellin). A good regional flyer is Avianca
Airlines, with services in English. A flight to one of these cities will generally
run you about $100 - $150 US round trip.
http://www.avianca.com/Inicio/Navegacion/Comprar/Home.htm?idioma
=EN&pais=CO&CheckPortada=SI
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5. Private drivers. If you’d like to hire a private driver to help you see some of
the sights they tend to run around $25/hour US. Robinson & I know of a
couple reliable drivers and would be happy to put you in touch with them or
make arrangements for you.
Car rental. All the major US car rental companies have offices in Bogota:
Hertz, Avis, you name it. The cost of renting a car in Colombia is generally
comparable to that in the United States. However, due to the mountainous
terrain, be aware that stick-shifts are the norm.
Taxi cabs. Taxi cabs are very affordable in Bogota. A trip can cost
anywhere between $4 & $12 US depending on the distance. When taking a
taxi cab, it is best to have someone (your hotel, restaurant, us, etc) call for
you versus hailing one in the street.
Colectivos. Colectivos, or public buses, are a cheap and easy way to see
the city. You will need to have a little understanding of the city before
hopping on a colectivo, as there are no maps or schedules, but it is not
impossible. We are always more than happy to help you out. And seriously,
if I figured it out, anyone can. The cost of a colectivo ride? About $.70 US.
If you’re lucky, a street artist (rapper, musician, juggler) will also hop on the
bus & provide you with entertainment while you ride.
Transmilenio. Due to funding shortfalls and the mountainous terrain of the
city, Bogota was not able to build a subway system. The transmilenio, only
a few years old, is Bogota’s answer to mass transit. The transmilenio is a
double bus that travels specially designated lanes & can cover the city rather
quickly. It’s also a good opportunity – along with the colectivo- to rub
elbows with every day Bogotans & experience Colombian culture. The cost
of a transmilenio ride is about $.90 US. For more information about the
transmilenio, check out:
http://www.transmilenio.gov.co/WebSite/Default.aspx
Walking. Be prepared to do a fair amount of walking in Bogota. Traffic is a
common problem and sometimes it’s just easier and quicker to walk.
Transportation To & From the Airport
A taxi ride from the airport to our house is about $25,000 Colombian pesos (about $10 - $15/US).
Alternatively, we can also arrange a van to pick you up at the airport for $40,000 Colombian pesos
(about $20/US).
Either way, Robinson & I will plan to meet you at the airport when you arrive. If you’re lucky, we’ll
even make a sign with your name on it ☺
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6. Lodging
When it comes to lodging, you can find something in all price points in Bogota – from the
sleeper sofa in our living room to a luxury hotel. Here are a few options:
• Our place. We have a brand new, cute one bedroom apartment with a comfortable
sleeper sofa in our living room and you are more than welcome to call it home.
However, we understand that you might want more privacy and space than what we
can offer. If that’s the case, check out the resources below.
• VRBO’s (Vacation Rental by Owner) in our neighborhood. A good resource that
we’ve used in the past is VRBO.com. This site offers apartments for rent from
anywhere from a day to a month and is often times more affordable and convenient
than a hotel, plus you have the use of a kitchen.
http://www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/south-america/colombia#a8487
Alternatively, we’ve been in touch with a gentleman who manages a number of
apartments that he rents out to visitors right in our neighborhood. He even has one
in the same building where we live. A link to the apartments he manages is
below...to find something in our neighborhood, click on either the Santa Barbara or
Unicentro link on the left hand side of the page. If you are interested in this option,
it is best to act fast as the apartments fill up quickly.
http://aptscolombia.com/faqcm.aspx
• Hotels. There are several higher-end boutique hotels in our neighborhood if you’re
looking for luxury for either all, or a part of, your stay. Some options within walking
distance to us include:
116 Hotel: http://www.116hotel.com/cont%C3%A1ctenos/
The Hotel Santefe: http://www.reservas.net/ssphtm/hinfohotel_579.html
Sonesta: http://www.sonesta.com/Bogota/index.cfm?fa=featuresactivities.home
There are also Radissons, Marriott’s, Embassy Suites and Holiday Inn’s here if you
have hotel points that you want to burn. Check out Lonely Planet or Orbitz for
additional hotel options and prices. As always, if you have questions on the
location or neighborhood, we’re just a phone call or email away.
• Hostels. Bogota also has a number of hostels if you’re looking to mingle more with
other travelers while saving a buck. Honestly, I think the VRBO’s work out to around
the same price per day and offer more comfort & privacy. However, it you’d like to
try a hostel, Lonely Planet offers some good suggestions:
http://hotels.lonelyplanet.com/colombia/bogota-r1977327/
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7. Things to Do & See in Bogota
Bogota, while maybe not the most aesthetically beautiful city in the world, is known for its
culture and night life. However, that’s not to say that the city is without its charm & there
is a little something for everybody here. You’ll find top notch restaurants praised by the
New York Times & Anthony Bourdain, progressive urban planning and transportation
solutions, historic buildings, colonial churches, parks, artists & a warm welcome.
Bogotans are proud of their city, happy to host visitors, and anxious to dispel the negative
stereotypes that have plagued their city and country for the last 20 years.
Our Top Twelve List Here is our own personal top ten (okay, twelve) list of things to do &
List.
see during your visit:
1. Monserrate.
Monserrate Monserrate is located on top of a mountain peak overlooking Bogota &
has the best views of the city. Visit day or night to get a bird’s eye view of Bogota.
There is also a good French restaurant on the mountain if you’d like a romantic &
memorable night overlooking the city lights of Bogota.
For more info, check out: http://www.cerromonserrate.com/
2. La Candelaria La Candelaria is the oldest neighborhood in Bogota & is considered
Candelaria.
the cultural center of the city. There is a lot to see in the Candelaria, but my personal
favorites include:
Plaza Simon Bolivar & views of the Cathedral
The Puerta Falsa, an almost 200 year old coffee shop where you can get a cup of
hot chocolate with cheese. Yes, you melt the piece of cheese in your hot
chocolate, how great is that?!?
The Museo Botero where you can see the paintings, sketchings & sculptures of
Fernando Botero, Colombia’s most famous and iconic artists. In addition to
Botero’s masterpieces, his private art collection is also on display & includes a
couple of Picasso’s, Salvador Dali & one of my favorites, Max Beckmann.
The Iglesia del Carmen, a church that looks like a wedding cake.
The Plaza del Chorro, a historic little square in the Candelaria & also home to
many artists, punk rockers & musicians who love to entertain when the sun starts
to go down.
Google images of La Candelaria: http://bit.ly/md5UfU
Museo Botero: http://www.banrepcultural.org/museos-y-colecciones/museo-
botero
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8. 3. Museo del Oro The Museo del Oro is Bogota’s world famous gold museum. You
Oro.
can see A LOT of gold here and get a good history lesson along the way. People
rave about it, and it’s worth a visit, but I prefer the oversized art and more inviting
atmosphere of the Museo Botero (see #2).
Google images for the Museo del Oro: http://bit.ly/iEt43l
4. Usaquen Flea Market Usaquen is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Bogota. It is
Market.
a quaint little village with a number of good restaurants. It’s best to visit on a Sunday
afternoon when the flea market is taking place and you can check out stall upon stall
of jewelry, leather goods & handicrafts, as well as sample food from a variety of
vendors (my favorite is the paella vendor) and watch street art performances such as
jugglers and musicians.
In addition to the flea market on Sundays, Usaquen also has a number of good
restaurants and bars and makes a nice place to visit on the weekends. Some good
places to check out include:
Our personal favorite, Parrilla Patagonia, is an Argentinian style restaurant where
the meat melts in your mouth. Some of my most memorable nights in Bogota
have been spent in this restaurant. I highly recommend it.
80 Sillas has great ceviche and other offerings in a quaint, romantic setting. I
had their beef carpaccio a couple of weeks ago and can’t stop thinking about it.
Mediterrania is, you guessed it, a Mediterranean restaurant in an old hacienda
setting – good food and very romantic.
Arcanos Mayores is also really cute and really good. Good for a traditional meal
or a creative cocktail at their bar.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23AL_fMhrn4&feature=related
5. The Ciclovia The ciclovia covers miles upon miles of urban roadways in Bogota & is
Ciclovia.
open every Sunday and Holiday (did you know Colombia has 17 national holidays?!?
Lovin’ that!) You can stroll down the ciclovia on your way to the Usaquen Flea
Market – see #4 above. Bogota’s ciclovia has served as a model for urban planning
& recreation worldwide.
Here’s a great you tube video about it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELa5CHsUepo
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9. 6. Parque Simon Bolivar & the Botanical Gardens. Parque Simon Bolivar is a huge
Gardens.
green park smack dab in the middle of Bogota. It has walking paths, greenery, an
amusement park and occasional live music and concerts. The botanical gardens,
right across the street, have lotus flowers the size of your head. It’s a visit that is
definitely worth a part of your day.
Only one transmilenio stop down from Parque Simone Bolivar is the Universidad la
Nacional campus and it’s worth another hour or two of your time. La Nacional (or
“la Nacho” as it is called) has a unique standing in Bogota as it is one of the best
universities in Colombia and also a public university—a rare combination in a
Country where the best schools are often privatized, and thusly, cost prohibitive for
many Colombians. Walk around the campus and check out the stunning graffiti art,
buy hand crafts or snacks from the multitude of independent student vendors (your
purchase may just help cover their weekly budget) and hang out in the plaza de la
revolucion. La Nacional is where I study Spanish & I feel like I’m 18 every time I walk
on to the campus. If that’s not worth an hour of your time, I don’t know what is ☺
7. Cuadra Picha. Unfortunately the Cuadra Picha has a bad reputation and a lot of
Picha.
Bogotans will tell you not to go here. It’s too bad as the Cuadra Picha is a fun,
working class neighborhood that is worth experiencing. As long as you exercise
common sense & maybe go with a local, you will have a great time and be able to
experience a side of Bogota that the tourist books won’t tell you about. The Cuadra
Picha is especially colorful on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon when families are out
shopping or eating at one of the many good (and affordable) parrillas (Argentinian
style restaurants) that line the street.
8. The Zona Rosa The Zona Rosa was voted one of the top five neighborhoods in
Rosa.
South America and is home to some great boutiques, shopping, restaurants & a very
vibrant party scene. Recommend dining options include Central, for what many
people say is the best ceviche in the city, DiLucca for pizza and Andres Carne DC.
Try the martinis at Pravda, but don’t let yourself have more than two – trust me on
this one.
You Tube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmYL_v-Lgi0&feature=related
Google images of the Zona Rosa: http://bit.ly/l445Jk
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10. Shopping
Bogota has some good boutiques and shopping options that I am just starting to explore. There is a
lot more out there than what I’ve discovered. Keep in mind I quit my day job and am not trying to
tempt myself… at least quite yet. That being said, here are some accidental finds ☺…
• Clothing: Clothing can run about the same price as in the states. If you’re looking for
something no one in the States will have and don’t mind dropping some coin, try Bendita Seas,
Olga Piedrahita & Renata Lozano – three interesting Colombian designers who have boutiques
in the Zona Rosa. Ochosesenta is more affordable and also features all Colombian designers –
also in the Zona Rosa. I like their boots & jewelry.
• Leather: Colombia is known for their leather and you can find some interesting handbags and
wallets at the Usaquen Flea Market. If you want something really special, go to Mu in the Zona
Rosa. They have leather wallets, satchels and handbags in every size and color under the sun.
It’s pretty dangerous. Another place to scope out is Taller Manuel del Cuero in the Macarena.
Depending on the length of your visit, you can even enroll in a leather making workshop. I will
do this someday!
• Tapestries: Colombia also has beautiful hand woven tapestries. If you like this sort of thing,
the best places are the artisan shops across from the Museo del Oro or Los Andes University in
the Candelaria.
9. The Zona G The Zona G is another good night spot. Come a little early to give
G.
yourself time to stroll down the shaded streets, then take your time eating or drinking
in some really great restaurants & bars. In my opinion, the Zona G is a more
sophisticated, less touristy version of the Zona Rosa. A few of my Zona G
recommendations include:
Harry’s Bar – a place to rub shoulders with Bogota’s rich & famous. Everyone
here tells us that you have to go to Harry’s at least once in your lifetime.
Kong, Buddha Garden and the rooftop terrace at La Familia are great places to
grab a fancy (and spendy) cocktail.
People rave about both Astrid & Gaston & Rafael Restaurante – two world class
Peruvian restaurants that are among the best in the city.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac1ZnmmHlBY&feature=related
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11. 10. Macarena The Macarena neighborhood is a small, but charming bohemian party
acarena.
neighborhood. It’s a great place to visit for dinner, particularly la Tapas Macarena
restaurant, a small but delicious tapas restaurant or Leo, Cocina, y Cava for
innovative Colombian food. I’ll be honest, I haven’t eaten at Leo, Cocina y Cava
yet, but people rave about the food. We went there for cocktails one night and their
house martini was something pretty special. The décor is Chambers Hotel meets
Scare Face, with equal awesomeness on both parts. It’s convenient to check out the
Macarena after spending the day in the Candelaria (see # 2) or watching the sunset
on top of Monserrate (see #1).
11. Parque 93 Parque 93 is another nice neighborhood lined with trendy places to eat,
93.
drink or enjoy a cup of coffee & dessert. It’s located around a large park where you
can take a nice stroll before or after dinner or hang out during the day and read or
play Frisbee or other things like that. A good dinner turn live music/dj/club stay out
late venue is the Puerta Grande. If you go to the Puerta Grande check out the
décor. It’s beautiful.
You Tube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ziwq7cqEQA
Neighborhood. The Chapinero neighborhood is a must see at night & is
12. Chapinero Neighborhood
full of clubs, DJ’s, live music and hip, young kids out making the most of their
youth. You can walk anywhere along Carreras 5, 7 & 9 and Calles 49 – 59 and find
a party. Chapinero is far less touristy than the Zona Rosa, younger than the Zona
G, louder than the Macarena & much less sanitized than Parque 93. The Chapinero
borders the Zona G and it’s convenient to come here after a nice meal or civilized
cocktail or two in the Zona G. A night in Chapinero usually turns into an early
morning taxi ride home. Ouch.
Meat cooking at the Pariila Patagonia,
Useqeun – Bogota: Paula Fynboh
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12. Restaurants & Night Life: The sky is really the limit here and there are so many more
Life:
places to experience than we’ve had the chance to visit so far. A quick rundown of our
favorites, as well as highly recommended venues from trusted sources include:
Food & Dining
Something Special: $$$ Something Special: $$ Something Special: $
$25 - $40 US without drinks $10- $20 US without drinks Less than $5 US
• Andres Carne de Res • Patagonia Parrila • Street food (yes, it is safe
(Chia – about 30 (Usaquen) to eat): Empanadas,
minutes outside of Pastel de Yucca &
Bogota, but worth every • Central (Zona Rosa) Obleas are on the top of
minute). As the NY my list. More on street
• Tapas Macarena
Times said, if you leave food: http://bit.ly/jLUqKw
(Macarena)
6 hours after you’ve
eaten – you’re leaving • SurtiFruva produce store
• Di Lucca (Zona Rosa)
too soon. If you can’t – stock up on all kinds of
get to Chia, visit Andres • 80 Sillas (Usaquen) fresh fruits
DC (Andres Carne de
• Puerta Grande (Parque • Perros Calientes (hot
Res’ sister in the Zona
93) dogs with friend potato), I
Rosa)
like the ones from J&R’s
• Astrid & Gaston (Zona • Gaucho (Macarena) the best. I first tried one
G) of these late at night after
a few drinks – I liked it so
• Harry’s Bar (Zona G) much I went back to get
another one for lunch the
• Casa San Isidro next day!
(Monserrate)
• La Plaza de Andes food
court at El Retiro mall
(Zona Rosa)
Drinks
Something Special: $$$ Something Special: $$ Something Special: $
$10 – $15 US $5 - $10 US $2 - $5 US
• BarDeLeo (Macarena) • 14 Inkas (Zona Rosa or • Any spot in the
Usaquen) Chapinero
• Kong (Zona G)
• Pravda (Zona Rosa) • Any neighborhood tienda
• Buddha Gardens (Zona (basically a convenient
G) • Bogota Beer Company store where you can buy
(handful of locations): beer or wine & sit there
• Arcanos Mayores Bogota Beer Company is and chat with the locals)
(Usaquen) a local chain with good
micro brews. • La Puerta Falsa for hot
chocolate (Candelaria)
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13. Addition
In Addition to Bogota
Colombia borders both the Atlantic & Pacific oceans & has three major mountain ranges
that cut through the country. In addition, the Amazon Rainforest consumes about one-
third to one-half of the country and the geographic diversity of the country extends to the
diversity of its people, culture & art as well.
Do yourself a favor & get out of Bogota at least once while you’re here so you can get a
better feel for Colombia as a Country.
Day trips
• Chia Only about a 30 minute drive outside of Bogota, Chia has some cute colonial
Chia.
buildings & is home to the world renowned Andre Carne de Res restaurant.
Celebrities are known to fly in to Bogota just to party here for a night.
http://www.colombia.com/turismo/sitio/chia/
• Zipaquira.
Zipaquira About an hour to an hour and a half drive from Bogota, Zipaquira is
home to the Salt Cathedral, a beautiful plaza and a couple pretty churches. Eat at
one of the local parrillas after you tour the salt cathedral and give yourself time to
soak in the town while sitting at one of the cute bars or coffee houses on the plaza.
http://www.zipaquira-cundinamarca.gov.co/index.shtml
Two to Four Days Trips
• Villa de Leyva About 3 – 4 hours outside of Bogota and accessible by bus. Villa
Leyva.
de Leyva is a picturesque little city with a huge cobblestone plaza, white washed
buildings and lots of shopping options, especially for leather handicrafts.
http://www.villadeleyva.net/inf_general_fotos_pueblo.php
• Barichara.
Barichara Barichara is a charming town & a UNESCO world heritage site. You can
do nothing but walk the streets and soak in the Spanish architecture. If you’re more
motivated, you can also get a spa treatment or hike to one of the other charming
villages, however, it’s a bit of an effort to get there – about an 8 drive doable by
bus or rental car. You should know that the drive is absolutely stunning & shows you
a side of Colombia you won’t see in Bogota. It’s definitely worth it – we drove there
with my parents and want to go back.
Google images of Barichara: http://bit.ly/jYC7Cl
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14. • Medellin Medeliin is Colombia’s second largest city. Wallpaper magazine wrote a
Medellin.
great article on Medellin last year & I wish I could find it online, but I can’t. Medellin
is home to some of the best modern architecture in Colombia, including the library
on top of Santa Domingo Salvia. It’s also emerging as a fashion-forward city and
many Colombian designers have made it their home. Medellin has transformed
itself from being the home of Pablo Escabar to a growing art & cultural community
with a strong investment in education. It’s definitely worth seeing. Be sure to
check out the rumbas & stay out all night in the Pablado neighborhood, see the
giant Fernando Botero sculptures in the Plazoleta de las Esculturas, and take a
cable car to the Santa Domingo Salvia neighborhood to see the transformation first
hand.
http://colombiareports.com/travel-in-colombia/medellin.html
• Cartegena.
Cartegena Cartegena is the major tourist city of Colombia and also a UNESCO
world heritage site on the Caribbean coast. It’s a blending of Indigenous, Afro-
.
Caribbean & Spanish culture. It’s absolutely stunning with great architecture,
balconies, restaurants, shopping & night life. I could take pictures all day long in
Cartegena. When planning your visit to Colombia, give yourself enough time to fly
to Cartegena and enjoy a few nights there – it will make your trip to Colombia most
memorable. It really is a magical city.
http://www.turismocartagenadeindias.com/
Cobblestone streets, Barichara – Colombia: Paula Fynboh
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15. Sample Itineraries
Here are some ideas on how to organize your time, based on your interests, while you’re
here. Some of these itineraries are fairly aggressive & can be mixed and matched or
spread out over a couple more days. Pick & choose for yourself or send us an email with
the things that interest you the most & we can create a personalized itinerary for you.
Bogota for Foodies
Day One::
• Sleep in & then make your way to an Almuerza Corriente for a Bandeja Paisa. Seriously
good sh*t. http://bit.ly/j5Ml0Y
• Walk off your Bandeja Paisa with a trip to Parque Simone Bolivar & a stop at
Universidad Nacional. Grab an empanada from a street vendor when you start to get
hungry again.
• Come home, rest & get ready to eat some more as you head to Usaquen with a visit to
Patagonia Parrila.
Day Two:
• You had a big day yesterday. Go easy on yourself this morning with some fresh fruit &
jam that you picked up from SurtiFruva on your way home last night.
• Make your way to the Candelaria to continue to walk off last night’s meal. Stop in La
Puerta Falsa for a cup of hot chocolate with cheese & maybe a homemade sweet.
• Make your way to Monserrate for an afternoon & possibly sunset view of Bogota. Dine
at Casa San Isidro, a romantic French restaurant on top of Monserrate or cruise over to
the Macarena district to Tapas Macarena followed by cocktails at Bar De Leo.
Day Three:
• Head to the Zona Rosa for a day of shopping and grab ceviche for lunch at Central.
• For dinner, go to the Zona G and grab a pre-dinner cocktail on the roof top terrace of
La Familia before a special meal at Astrid & Gaston, followed by another cocktail or
two at Kong’s.
Day Four:
• Grab brunch at Bagetelle and then take your time walking around Parque 93.
• Get ready to head to Chia, just outside of Bogota, for an all night dinner at Andres
Carne de Res.
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16. Bogota for Artists
Day One:
• Assuming it’s Sunday, grab coffee at the legendary Juan Valdez and walk the ciclovia
to the Usaquen Flea Market. Peruse the artist stalls (especially the leather hand bags
and jewelry) & enjoy performances by jugglers, musicians and other street art
performers.
• Stop in for a drink and maybe a fortune card reading at Arcanos Mayores.
Day Two:
• Head to the Candelaria for colonial architecture and churches. Give yourself time to
look at Fernando Botero’s sketchings, paintings and sculptures, as well as his own
personal art collection of Picassos and Salvador Dali at the Museo Botero. Make a
quick run through the Museo del Oro & the artist shops across the street from the
Museo del Oro (I especially like the handmade tapestries or ‘molas’ as they are called
(http://bit.ly/jPLrsn). Go to the Plaza del Chorro a little before sunset to hang out and
watch artists of every type.
Day Three:
• Wander around the campus at Universidad Nacional and check out all of the
graffiti/street art. Maybe even catch some live music being played by some of the
students in the plaza de revolucion.
• Head to the Macarena to soak in the Bohemian vibe, dinner and some great leather
handiwork at Taller Manuel del Cuero. Then go to the Chapinero to see some live
music.
Graffiti art at Universidad Nacional campus, Bogota: Paula Fynboh
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17. Bogota like the Locals Do It
Day One:
• Enjoy a Bandeja Paisa breakfast at a local almuerza corriente before heading to the
Candelaria by colectivo. With any luck a juggler, poet or rapper will hop on the bus
and perform for you.
• Spend the day walking around the Candelaria and sampling different street food from
the many food vendors. Hang out in the Parque de los Periodistas or walk down
Avenida Jimenez for shopping the way the locals do it. Go to the Plaza del Chorro a
little before sunset for some more hanging with the locals.
• If you’re lucky enough to visit Bogota on the first Friday of the month, be sure to make
it to La Dayliciosa, part bar-b-que, part happy hour, part all night dance party. Check
out a recent NY Times article about it:
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/04/24/travel/24cultured-dayliciosa.html
Day Two:
• Take the transmilenio to Parque Simone Bolivar and plan a stop at Universidad
Nacional.
• Get a cheap manicure & pedicure and browse through Latin fashion magazines at a
local beauty shop while you make small talk with the ladies working there.
• Stay in for dinner and watch Colombian popular Tele Novellas (evening soap operas)
and order out from the many tiendas, pharmacies or restaurants that deliver. Note:
You can get both McDonald’s and ice cream delivered right to your front door
• Catch a soccer game in the evening at El Campin stadium or just handout and talk
sh*t at a local tienda.
Day Three:
• Assuming you’re here on a Monday, sit in on the free English class Robinson and I
teach to the people who work in our building. Have them teach you a couple sayings
in Spanish in exchange for teaching them a couple American slang expressions.
• Make your way to the Cuadra Picha for lunch, then spend some time walking around
one of the many malls in Bogota.
• Head to the Chapinero at night to party with Bogota’s youth.
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18. Kid-Friendly Bogota
Kid-
*Children are revered in Colombia, so basically anywhere you go (outside of the clubs) is
kid-friendly. Sundays in particular are reserved for family time.
Day One:
• Assuming you have a Sunday here, enjoy some time playing along the ciclovia on your
way to the Usaquen flea market. Watch jugglers and street performers for hours in the
Usaquen plaza and pick up some homemade sweets and fresh fruit in the flea market.
Day Two:
• Feed and chase the pigeons in the Plaza Simone Bolivar in front of the Cathedral in the
Candelaria.
• Have a picnic lunch, run around and check out the amusement park in the Parque
Simone Bolivar.
• Borrow Oscar and come with us to a local park to watch the dogs play.
Day Three:
• Spend the day at the Mundo Aventura (World of Adventure), an amusement theme park
located near the Cuadra Picha neighborhood (http://www.mundoaventura.com.co/).
After you’re finished adventuring, grab a family meal at one of the many parrila’s in the
neighborhood.
Colonial Bogota
Day One:
• Spend the day wandering around the Candelaria neighborhood in Bogota, soaking in
the Plaza, churches & architecture.
Day Two:
• Take a bus to Villa de Leyva & spend the night.
Day Three:
• Return to Bogota & head to Usaquen in the evening for a nice dinner and stroll through
the plaza and cobblestone streets.
Day Four – Seven:
• Either fly Avianca Airlines to Cartagena to spend a few days walking around the Old
City or rent a car and drive to Barichara and wander the cobblestone streets there.
Both will provide completely different experiences, but either way, you will be in colonial
heaven.
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19. When to Visit & What to Bring
Come & visit us whenever and as much as you’d like. However, if you have the option to
avoid the month of April (and maybe May), I would recommend doing so, as this is the
rainy season and it could rain for days during your visit.
Special events Below is a list of interesting events that take place over the course of the
events
vents.
year. Although these are annual events, the exact dates will be different each year. If
something is particularly catching your eye, it’s a good idea to double-check the exact
dates it will be happening.
Late January – Mid February
• Bogota Fashion Week, Bogota. Runway shows and special events featuring
Colombian and South American designers.
February
• Carnaval, Barranquilla (located on the Atlantic coast, near Cartagena). Carnaval is
like mardi gras and takes place 40 days before Easter. Usually the middle of
February.
April
• Semana Santa (Holy Week). The biggest festivities take place in Popayon (near
the Pacific Coast), Mompox (near the Atlantic Coast) and Bogota. Usually in mid
to late April.
July
• Rock el Parque, Bogota. Large, four-day free music festival featuring Colombian,
Latin American and a handful of American bands in Parque Simone Bolivar.
• Medellin Fashion Week, Medellin. Runway shows and special events featuring
mostly Medellin designers and other Colombian and South American designers.
October
• Gastronomía, Bogota. Food week featuring Colombian chefs.
November
• Senorita Colombia Pageant, Cartagena. Colombia is big on beauty pageants and
the biggest, Miss Colombia, takes place every November in Cartagena.
December
• Expoartesanias, Bogota. Large artisan and craft fair featuring Colombian artists
and craftspeople, Indigenous art and other Latin Artists.
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20. Sample packing list. There are not really seasons here, with the exception of the rainy
list.
months. Everyday has a high temperature between 65 and 70 degrees and a low around
50 or 55 degrees at night. Even in the dry season it usually rains once every couple of
days for a half hour to an hour. Plan to bring:
• Your passport, along with your cash card/credit card.
• A travel umbrella.
• Your camera.
• Shoes than can handle walking and concrete. I am either wearing boots with a
lower and wider heal or flats here. My poor stiletto collection isn’t getting much use
and when they do come out I usually carry them to our destination in my bag and
then change into them when I get there.
• Clothes that can be layered. I usually wear leggings or jeans with a tunic or dress
and carry my spring jacket with me at night. Know that when the sun is out – even
if it’s only 67 or 70 degrees, it can feel much, much warmer
• Sunscreen. It’s not crazy hot here, but we are a lot closer to the sun with the
elevation.
• Any toiletries you need.
• Not mandatory, but your experience will likely be richer if you study up on key
Spanish phrases and do a little homework before you arrive. For your convenience,
I’ve included a number of links as part of this guide and also developed a resource
section.
In terms of language, you’ll be fine if you don’t know much (look at me!) However,
the Lonely Planet Colombia book has a short section with the most common
expressions that is quite useful.
• http://shop.lonelyplanet.com/colombia/colombia-travel-guide-5
• http://shop.lonelyplanet.com/south-america/latin-american-spanish-
phrasebook-5
Gold Figure, Museo del Oro, Bogota:
Paula Fynboh
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21. Budgeting
Your flight & lodging (depending where you choose to stay) will be your biggest expense.
Bogota can be enjoyed on a variety of budgets and a lot of the attractions I mentioned
(Candelaria, Parque Simon Bolivar, the Usaquen Flea Market) are free. You can drop coin
eating and drinking at upscale places in the Zona G, Zone Rosa and Parque 93, or you
can get by on $10/day if you stock up at the grocery store, eat street food, take public
transport and drink in the tiendas.
• Exchange rate. This site is handy for calculating the current exchange rate for US
rate.
dollars to Colombian pesos. http://www.xe.com/ucc/
Giant bronze hand, Museo Botero,
Bogota: Paula Fynboh
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22. More Resources
This is an important section as it will give you a feel for Bogota outside of what I’m telling
you and also provide you with other ideas of things to do and see while you’re here. Even
if you’re not able to visit us, I think this is still a good section to look at it as it. A quick
note: I tried to find more unique sources (blogs, independent websites & articles) in order
to give you an idea beyond what you would see in a traditional tour guide book.
• 101 Reasons to Love Bogota (blog post): A fun & quick read.
http://www.elbogotazo.com/miscelanea/manual-de-bogota/1769-101-reasons-
to-love-bogota.html
• Your Bogota (website): A great resource developed by two Canadians (and new
friends of ours). You can get tips on restaurants, shopping, events, when to visit
and packing suggestions. http://yourbogota.info/
• Bogota Bites (blog): A food blog recently started by a woman from NY (& a new
friend of mine) now living in Bogota. I sometimes accompany Lily (the author) on
her Bogota Bites assignments.
http://bogotabites.wordpress.com/2011/06/14/bogota/
• New York Times Travel Quick travel articles
Travel:
36 hours in Bogota: http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/07/04/travel/04hours.html
36 hours in Cartegena:
http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/05/25/travel/25hours.html
• Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations, Colombia (video): Shot is Cartegena &
Medellin, it does not contain any video clips or references to Bogota, but provides a
good overview of the food, culture and people.
Part 1 of 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L1Vi3zWpBQ
Part 2 of 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcmueiCJb_o
Part 3 of 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3h_3YpwilIg
• Mapping the City to Hip Hop (Blog & videos). Takes place in Medellin and provides
a fascinating overview of the changes taking place in Colombia as told by youth.
http://globalvoicesonline.org/2011/06/24/colombia-video-mapping-the-city-to-
hip-hop/
• Films that Misrepresent Colombia...and Some Which Don’t (blog article): For movie
lovers... http://networkedblogs.com/j5Zva (FYI: Bogotans hate the movie Mr. &
Mrs. Smith).
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23. Don’t Take Our Word for It: Words & Advice from Our Recent Visitors
It:
So...you’re actually going to help me write this page. As an added bonus to anyone who
comes and visits, you get to add your unedited comments to this page. I’m hoping we
have so many visitors that this section will go on forever ☺
“Dress in layers. Be sure to try the local stands for fruits & fresh OJ. Also, the local food
is very good...be sure to try some. Learn some basic Spanish before your trip. The
people are friendly especially when you give them a smile and some consideration. A
couple pair of good walking shoes are a must. See other places besides Bogota so you
experience more of the culture. It's good to have a map with you. The Botero museum
was interesting and fun and the Gold Museum is a must see. Also visit the Bogota Beer
Company preferably in the evening and take in the Usaquen market on Sunday. It's a fun
place to visit and it feels good to know some people still like the U.S.”
--Mom & Dad Fynboh
Visited May 2011
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