2. FEATURES
CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE
40
52
O N T H E C O V E R
Ultimate Chef competitors play nice for
a quick group shot at the Cass House in
Cayucos. From left to right: Chef Budi
Kazali of the Ballard Inn in Santa Ynez,
Chef Doug MacMillan of Rosa’s Italian
Restaurant in Pismo Beach, Chef Kelly
Wangard of the Paso Robles Inn Steak-
house, Chef Christophe Grosjean (seated)
of L’ Auberge Carmel, and Jensen Lorenzen
(top right) from Cass House in Cayucos.
Ultimate ChefTwenty local chefs vie for the title of
Ultimate Chef Central Coast 2009 in
CCM®’s annual culinary competition.
The Art of the Blend
Central Coast winemakers mix up
one-of-a-kind masterpieces.
40
3. There is probably no better measure of a chef’s talent than to give
him or her free reign to create a dish, without restriction, from a
specific ingredient. With 10 days to contemplate the best, most
intriguing use of nuts, 20 chefs from around the region created four
dishes designed to wow the judges with their creativity and skill.
After the qualifying round, the two top finalists—Executive Chef Budi Kazali
from The Ballard Inn in the Santa Ynez Valley and Executive Chef Christophe
Grosjean from L’Auberge Carmel—met in a head to head cook-off at the
Idler’s Appliance showroom in Paso Robles. Seven chefs from the initial
competition served their high-scoring dishes to the audience; Adelaida
Cellars poured a selection of their award-winning wines; and 200 CCM®
readers, friends, and clients watched as these two top contenders prepared
their creations made with a new ingredient: the lowly but lovely almond.
C H A L L E N G E : N U T S
Budi Kazali
4. Creativity is not enough to win a competition like this.
A chef must also be a master of technique, an expert of
execution, have some good experience under his belt,
and be cool under fire in the kitchen. And it doesn’t hurt
if everybody likes him. Budi Kazali is all that.
While his résumé may reflect some big, well-known
names in the restaurant world, he is long past the stage
of having to site his former posts for recognition—as
it is his name that inspires knowing nods from foodies
far and wide. As chef and owner of The Ballard Inn, he
draws locals and visitors to his 12-table dining room to
indulge in world-class fare.
Known not only for his inspired French and Asian
influenced wine country cuisine but also for his
exquisite plating and artistic presentations, he is
highly regarded by diners—but he’s also a favorite
among his peers. There’s not a chef in the region
who will be surprised that Budi Kazali has been
named CCM®
’s Ultimate Chef for 2009.
BUDIKAZALI
5. 42
Serves 4
2 duck breasts, skin scored and trimmed
1 bunch asparagus, trimmed
½ tsp shallots, minced
½ tsp garlic, minced
3 Tbsp white wine
Salt and pepper
Bamboo Rice (recipe on CCM®
website)
Crunchy Almond and Garlic Garnish
Almond Massaman Curry Sauce
Apple Salad
Preheat oven to 400°F. Season duck with
salt and pepper then sear duck in sauté
pan over medium heat, skin side down
for about 6 minutes, until crispy. Turn
over and place in oven for 2 – 3 minutes.
Remove and allow duck to rest for 2 – 3
minutes before slicing. Reserve pan and
rendered duck fat to sauté asparagus.
Sauté asparagus in reserved duck fat for
1 minute. Add shallots and garlic, deglaze
with wine and continue to cook until
desired doneness.
Using an O ring mold, place ½ cup of
bamboo rice on center of the plate,
tamping down. Add 3 Tbsp of the almond
garnish, tamping gently, then remove the
ring. Drizzle curry sauce around the rice.
Place asparagus on the rice, then slices of
duck breast over the asparagus. Top with
Fuji apple and raisin salad, and serve.
Crunchy Almond and Garlic Garnish
½ c almonds, roughly chopped
Canola oil
3 Tbsp garlic, roughly chopped
2 tsp chili flakes
1 Tbsp parsley, chopped
Combine almonds and oil in a pot. Slowly
bring to a boil and fry until almonds begin
to turn golden brown. Add garlic and
remove from heat. Strain when golden
brown, then add chili flakes and parsley.
Almond Massaman Curry
1 can coconut milk
1 c almond milk
2 Tbsp palm sugar
4 Tbsp fish sauce
2 Tbsp tamarind paste
½ c almonds, toasted
Almond Curry Paste (recipe on
CCM®
website)
Sauté curry paste in pot. Add coconut milk
and bring to simmer. Add sugar, fish sauce
and tamarind to taste. Stir in toasted
almonds and add almond milk until
desired consistency is reached.
Apple Salad
1 Fuji apple, julienned
2 Tbsp raisins, finely chopped
1 Tbsp rice wine vinegar
3 Tbsp almond oil
2 Tbsp almonds, toasted and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Combine raisins and vinegar. Add almond
oil, salt, and pepper. Add in apple and
almonds. Set aside for plating.
PAN SEARED DUCK
BREAST WITH ALMOND
MASSAMAN CURRY
and Crispy Fried Almond Bamboo Rice
Ultimate Chef Budi
Kazali keeps his cool
as things heat up in the
kitchen. Brett Stephens
and Francisco Velasquez
(below) round out the
team, working together
to skillfully prepare the
plates of winning cuisine
for our judges.
C H A L L E N G E : N U T S
First Course
Macadamia Crusted Maine Lobster
with Candlenut Nage
Second CourseDuck Two Ways:
Duck Breast with Toasted Walnut and Apple Salad
Foie Soup with Walnut Foam and Crostini
Third Course
Rack of Lamb Coated with Spicy Pistachio
Served with Asian Pistachio Pesto
Fourth Course
Almond and Brown Butter Financier
Almond Ice Cream and Amaretto Syrup
C H A L L E N G E : A L M O N D S
Kumamoto Oyster with Sparkling Almond Mignonette and
Almond Granita
First Course
Almond Crusted Skate Wing with Arugula Salad and
Valencia Almond Brown Butter
Second Course
Pan Seared Duck Breast with Crispy Fried Almond Bamboo
Rice and Almond Massaman Curry
Third Course
Almond Braised Veal Cheek with Almond Crusted Sweet-
bread with Homemade Almond Fettuccini and Marcona
Almond Gremolata
Fourth Course
“Ode to Almond Joy”
Almond Milk Shake with Chocolate
Ganache and Coconut Tuille
Almond Panna Cota with Chocolate
Sauce and Toasted Coconut
Almond Toasted Marzipan Dipped
in Chocolate with Coconut Syrup
Ballard Inn & Restaurant
2436 Baseline Ave., Ballard
(805) 688-7770
www.ballardinn.comBUDIKAZALI
6. Last year we touted L’Auberge Carmel as one of our
ultimate Gourmet Getaways, and we’re not the only press
to bestow tiny Aubergine Restaurant with accolades.
Frankly, even if the food was just good (rather than
sublime), we’d still love the charming French chef at the
helm. Christophe Grosjean learned to appreciate food as
everyone should: from his grandmother.
Though his culinary background is impressive, this is
another chef that doesn’t need validation based on where
he’s been, since where he is happens to be one of the
Central Coast’s true gems. At Aubergine, Chef Grosjean
creates exquisite dishes that honor the best of our local
bounty. The tasting menu is a celebration of flavor and
form, as each beautiful offering represents the passion
this delightful chef has for his craft. His entries for the
competition were like works of art, and the judges all sat
and stared for a few minutes before disturbing the mini-
masterpieces, a smile of satisfaction on their faces. With
his place as CCM®
’s Ultimate Chef runner-up, we expect
even more faces will be wearing that smile.
C H A L L E N G E : N U T S
Walnut
Endive, Beet, Argon Oil Powder,
Walnut Vinaigrette, Blue Cheese Foam
Almond
Green Garlic Risotto, Bergamot “au sel”,
Roasted Almond Milk, Red Abalone
Pine Nut
Pine Nut Crusted Lamb Loin, Goat Cheese Jus, Zucchini
Pistachio
Hazelnut “Dacquoise”, Meyer Lemon Curd, Bartlett Pear, Pecan Nougatine,
Pistachio Ice Cream
C H A L L E N G E : A L M O N D S
First Course
Orgeat “Martini”, Dragée Crumble Rim
served with Marcona Almond Emulsion, Nantucket Bay
Scallop Ceviche, Bergamot “au sel”, Asparagus
Second Course
Almond Oil Poached White Sea Bass, Almond Butter and Spring Onion Purée,
Mizuna, Pomme “Amandine”
Third Course
Hickory Smoked Almond-Crusted Squab, Foie Gras,
Patta Negra Ham, Brussels Sprout, Woodcock Jus
Fourth Course
Carmel Almond Financier, d’Anjou Pear, Ginger Confit,
Meyer Lemon, Jordan Almond Ice Cream
Pictured Right: Sous Chef
Logan Jones and Chef
Christophe Grosjean
work together to create
the stunning presentation
of his Carmel Almond
Financier. But the real
crowd pleaser of the night
was his top-scoring first
course (pictured left). Visit
centralcoastmag.com for
the exclusive recipe.
Aubergine
at L’ Auberge Carmel
Monte Verde at Seventh
Carmel-by-the-Sea
(831) 624-8578
www.laubergecarmel.com
FOR OUR FAVORITE RECIPES FROM THE COMPETITION, GO TO CENTRALCOASTMAG.COM
CHRISTOPHEGROSJEAN
7. 44
CHEF KELLY WANGARD
Paso Robles Inn Steakhouse
CHEF TORY MARTINDALE
Bella Vista, Four Seasons Resort
the Biltmore Santa Barbara
Brazil Nut Crusted Sea Scallop
with Local Abalone, Cauliflower
Panna Cotta, Hazelnut Essence
Paradise Blue Cheese and
Cody Farms Waterloo
Walnut Baklava with
Chandler Walnut Pear
Sap. Served with Salad
of Jicama, Watermelon
Radish and Sunflower
Sprouts with Serrs Walnut
Vinaigrette
NOTABLE DISHES
WildcardA savory interpretation of
the usually sweet pastry,
one judge simply called it
“flawless.” The chef used
three different varieties of
local walnuts in the various
components of this exquisite
dish, educating us in the
process—a sure way to gain
extra points.
PHOTO BY CORAL JOHNSON
AppetizerAppetizerThis ultra fresh, super
sweet, and perfectly
cooked scallop served
over the delicate panna
cotta, was the ideal
foundation to showcase
the burnt hazelnut purée.
As one judge said, “The
dish was elevated by
the flavor of the nut from
delicious to impeccable.”
FOR OUR FAVORITE RECIPES FROM THE COMPETITION, GO TO CENTRALCOASTMAG.COM
8. EntréeThe chef used the secret
ingredient to full effect in this
outstanding dish, and one judge
acknowledged his effort by
saying it was “unmistakable
what he was going for.” The
crusted lamb had unique texture
due to the handling of the two
different nuts. The exceptional
bread pudding was savory and
delicate. One judge called the
combination “a delectable bite.”
DessertIt takes a master to create a dish
this decadent yet have the result
seem light. Chopped almonds
were suspended in the steamed
pudding for perfect texture, while
a lightly sweetened whipped
cream balanced the flavors. This
entry garnered the coveted “oh
my god” bonus point from all of
the judges.
CHEF MARK AYERS
Pacific’s Edge
Highlands Inn, Carmel
CHEF SHAWN WASHBURN
Shawn’s on Main, Morro Bay
Chocolate Almond Sticky
Toffee Pudding with
Whipped Cream
Almond Purée and
Crushed Pecan
Crusted Lamb Loin
with Gorgonzola
and Candied Pecan
Brioche Bread
Pudding and Dried
Cherry Demi
PHOTO BY KIM LEMAIRE
9. 46
NUTS
Once we made the decision to use
nuts as the secret ingredient for the
qualifying round, we were left with a
dilemma. Most things we think of as
nuts are actually botanically considered
seeds: walnuts, pecans, almonds,
cashews, and pistachios, for example.
A peanut is a legume and a seed.
Hazelnuts and chestnuts are “true” nuts,
as is an acorn. But in the culinary sense,
these are all understood to be nuts,
regardless of their botanical definition.
So we asked the chefs to use their
discretion and be prepared to explain
their choices to the judges.
During the competition, we encountered
every commonly known nut from A
to Z (well, actually from acorns to
walnuts), and experienced a diversity
of clever preparations and unique
interpretations—just a few of which are
mentioned here. We also came across
some entries that we felt simply pushed
the qualifying ingredient a little far, such
as pumpkin seeds, the lychee nut, and
even Coca Cola (to denote the cola
nut). Regardless, each dish represented
the chef’s creative talent, as well as his
or her competitive spirit.
Pan Seared Bluenose Sea Bass,
Chestnut Gnocchi, Black Truffle, Celery,
Brown Butter Emulsion
CHEF WILL TORRES
Deborah’s Room at JustInn, Paso Robles
AlmondsWe always looked for the nuts to be
truly incorporated in the dish, and
some chefs did this particularly well.
At Stokes in Monterey, Chef Brian
Christiansen prepared a rustic but
delicious Almond Späetzle with local
wild mushrooms topped with a shav-
ing of Grana Parmesan, while Justin
Gabbert at Novo in San Luis Obispo
used ground almonds as the base for
a spicy sauce that accompanied his
Shrimp Lollipops. At Seagrass, Greg
Murphy used the Marcona variety
to make an almond crema for his
Pan-Seared Sea Scallop. In a dish
one judge called “totally surprising
and exceptional,” Chef Tim Kilcoyne
used almonds as the basis of this
wonderful chilled soup (shown).
Chilled Almond Soup with Pickled
Grapes and Smoked Trout
CHEF TIM KILCOYNE
The Sidecar Restaurant, Ventura
ChestnutsChef Deborah Scarborough at Black Cat Bistro
combined this “true” nut with pear to make
a delightful purée upon which she set apple
and chestnut stuffed pheasant breast. Jensen
Lorenzen of Cass House also made a chestnut
purée but used the skin of the nut to create a
wonderfully unique smoke component in his
Pig’s Foot & Clove Consommé with Oxtail. Will
Torres used chestnut as the basis for the gnoc-
chi served with his entrée of bluenose sea bass
(shown). All four judges were so impressed with
the gnocchi, they said they would eat an entire
plate of it—find the recipe on our website. This
is one we know the judges will be downloading.
10. HazelnutsFrom hazelnut shells for smoking, to ground
nuts for crusting, to Frangelico for flavoring,
our chefs used lots of hazelnuts. While Brian
Christiansen served a Frangelico Foie Gras
Torchon and David Reardon from Miró in
Santa Barbara prepared Hazelnut Dusted
Bobwhite Quail, most hazelnut entries came
in the dessert category. Mark Ayers from
Pacific’s Edge offered a dessert Duo of
Hazelnut, which included a Banana Hazel-
nut Spring Roll, Frangelico Caramel, and a
Bittersweet Chocolate Hazelnut Parfait with
roasted hazelnut foam. But it was a trio from
Chef Doug MacMillan (shown) that garnered
special mention, called a “delicious celebra-
tion of this nut,” by one judge.
Mixed NutsWhile the chefs were required to use a differ-
ent nut in each of their four dishes, nothing
precluded them from using more than one nut
in any given entry, and many combined types
of nuts for unique results. Kirk Sowell’s North
African Five-Nut Gite Gite included hazelnuts,
cashews, pecans, almonds, and Brazil nuts.
Chef Richard Wirz served handmade pistachio
gelato in a pecan molasses cone, habanero
Spanish peanut brittle served with a cashew,
and Frangelico hot chocolate with pistachio
and meyer lemon whipped cream. But it was
David Miller of Level 4 who stunned us with
his Four-Nut Pâté (shown). Though delicious
on its own, when combined with the other
flavors on the plate it incited one judge to not
only give it full points, but to draw a little star
followed by an exclamation point.
Macadamia NutsWith its light crispy texture and delicate,
buttery taste, the Macadamia is a versatile
nut that ideally complements a variety of
dishes. Chef Tory Martindale utilized the
tropical nut in his creative dessert that
featured a Caramelized Banana and
Macadamia Nut Monte Cristo. Chef Richard
Wirz, on the other hand, incorporated the
ingredient into a more savory dish by adding
roasted macadamias to his silky acorn and
pumpkin squash soup. But the judges gave
top marks to Kelly Wangard’s Pan-Seared
Foie Gras with Peppered Banana (shown) that
she enhanced with the Nut French Toast, Can-
died Macadamias and Apple Cider Reduction.
The end result was an absolutely perfect bite
that one judge called, “A real show of her
talent as a professional chef.”
Pine NutsIn addition to the pine nuts we found in
pestos, they were also used to crust sea-
food (as with the Pine Nut Lemon Crusted
Yellowtail from Andy Brooks), and lamb (Pine
Nut Basil Dusted Lamb with Cilantro Pine Nut
Emulsion from Shawn Washburn). But the
most unusual and captivating pine nut dish
we encountered was the Potato Pine Nut
Fritter with California Osetra Caviar served
with onion and egg garnish (shown) from
David McWilliam at the Gardens of Avila. The
perfect fritter was crispy on the outside, fluffy
on the inside. “The wonderful taste of the
pine nuts really came through, even with the
strong flavors of the onion and caviar,” said
one judge, while another called it “brilliant.”
Four-Nut Pâté with Seared Sonoma Foie
Gras, Stone Fruit Chutney, Hush Harbor
Baguette, and Moët Reduction
CHEF DAVID MILLER, Level 4, Paso Robles
Pan Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Peppered
Banana, Nut French Toast, Candied Macadamia,
Apple Cider Reduction
CHEF KELLY WANGARD, Paso Robles Inn Steakhouse
Potato Pine Nut Fritter with California Osetra
Caviar and Traditional Garnishes
CHEF DAVID MCWILLIAM, Gardens of Avila
Dessert Trio: Affogato al Caffè
with Hazelnut Ice Cream, Chocolate
Hazelnut Torte, and Wafer Basket
with Zabaglione and Berries
CHEF DOUG MACMILLAN
Rosa’s Italian Restaurant, Pismo Beach
FOR OUR FAVORITE RECIPES FROM THE COMPETITION, GO TO CENTRALCOASTMAG.COM
11. 48
Dusted&CrustedWe knew we’d see nuts used to coat
a variety of ingredients, but in every
case the interpretation and execution
of this classic preparation resulted
in maximum impact of the secret in-
gredient. Tom Fundaro of Villa Creek
crusted chile relleno with pistachios;
Andy Brooks of Brooks in Ventura
dusted Mexican shrimp with walnuts
and cornmeal; and Shawn Washburn
of Shawn’s on Main served a pine
nut and basil dusted lamb. Without
a doubt, one of the most uniquely
crusted dishes—and certainly one
of the most stunning presentations
overall—came from David Reardon
of Miró at the Bacara Resort in Santa
Barbara with his black sea bass with
marcona almond scales (shown).
SmokeThe most gratifying aspect of the competition is
when a chef does something that would have
never occurred to the rest of us, demonstrating
just why they are chefs and we are not. Using
the nuts as fuel to smoke meat is a perfect
example. Deborah Scarborough from the Black
Cat Bistro in Cambria smoked squab breast
with hazelnut shells, which she served with an
amazing foie gras hazelnut froth. Tim Kilcoyne
of The Sidecar Restaurant in Ventura also used
hazelnut shells to smoke his pork belly dish,
which was then braised and served with corn,
black Russian kale, jalapeño, and thyme. And
Chef Gregg Wangard from Marisol at the Cliff’s
Resort in Shell Beach used a “true” nut to give
a distinctly smoky flavor to his Acorn Smoked
Ribeye (shown).
MoléMolé is the generic name for a variety of
Mexican sauces made from chiles, but the
version most of us are familiar with uses ground
nuts or seeds as one of the key ingredients,
providing texture as well as flavor. When we
first encountered it, a nod of appreciation went
around the judging table. “Of course, molé!”
Served by Tom Fundaro, this first molé utilized
almonds and pecans and was served with his
excellent Rabbit Tamales with Calico Bean
Hash and Fried Green Bananas (shown). Chef
Andy Brooks served Cured Hudson Valley
Duck Breast with Traditional Molé made with
peanuts and almonds, while David McWilliam
from Gardens of Avila prepared an outstanding
Grilled Venison Loin Molé, which he accented
with a cashew nut vinaigrette.
Black Sea Bass, Marcona
Almonds, Spinach, Pine Nut,
Romesco Sauce
CHEF DAVID REARDON
Miró, Bacara Resort, Santa Barbara
left
Acorn Smoked Ribeye, Cliff’s Swiss
Chard, Pine Nuts, Raisins, Rouille
CHEF GREGG WANGARD
Marisol at the Cliffs Resort, Shell Beach
right
Rabbit Molé Tamales with Calico
Bean Hash and Fried Green Bananas
CHEF TOM FUNDARO
Villa Creek, Paso Robles
TECHNIQUES&TRENDS
12. Modern CookingFrom the molecular gastronomy movement, a
greater understanding of the science of cooking
has emerged in many kitchens. This, along with
the technological advances in equipment and the
discovery of the impact of various natural gums
and hydrocolloids, means that chefs are producing
new results from traditional ingredients.
Chef Jensen Lorenzen made an extraordinary PB&J
(shown) of Foie Gras with Peanut Brioche, Quince
Jam, Bliss Maple Syrup, and Peanut Dust. And
while the dish overall was a knockout, we mention
it here because of the peanut dust: using maltodex-
trin, he turned peanut butter into granular powder
which then reconstituted instantly in the mouth.
Other stunning advances in food-science were
experienced by Chef Will Torres’ one hour poached
egg cooked sous-vide, and his whipped pistachio
oil which required adding a little gelatin and xan-
than gum. Likewise, Tory Martindale prepared his
squab sous-vide to ensure perfect doneness, which
he then seared before serving. He also treated us
to toasted almonds transformed into powder with
maltodextrin as an accompaniment to his dessert.
PestoMany cooks use nuts in pesto, and we looked forward to wonderful
traditional pestos (like that served by Chef Nicola Allegretta of Mama’s
Meatball in San Luis Obispo in his linguini with sautéed wild Mexican
shrimp) as well as unique takes on this Italian standard. We saw pestos
from cashews (with pork belly at Miró), chestnuts (with pappardelle and
wild mushrooms at Villa Creek), and from Chef Greg Murphy at Seagrass
in Santa Barbara, a pistachio pesto was just one of the ways that nut
was incorporated throughout the Pan-Seared Pacific Halibut with Napa
Cabbage Roulade. And proving that pesto is not always about basil, nor
is it always vibrant green, Chef Richard Wirz served handmade tagliatelle
with Dungeness crab and Ridgeback prawns with a parsley, almond, and
pine nut pesto (shown).
DerivativesA good secret ingredient provides the opportunity to use altered forms of
the original product, and with nuts, this included flours, oils and milks. Tim
Kilcoyne’s duck confit was made with half walnut oil and half duck fat, which
one judge called a “brilliant use and incorporation of walnut oil.”
Chef Kelly Wangard from the Paso Robles Inn Steakhouse used almond
milk for her crème brûlée, which was served with one of the most amazing
new ingredients from the competition: preserved rose petals. Kirk Sowell
also used nut milk in his Crunchy Almond Dumplings in Almond Milk Green
Curry (shown).
Handmade Tagliatelle, Local Dungeness Crab, Local Ridgeback
Prawns, Sicilian Flat Leaf Parsley, Almond and Pine Nut Pesto
CHEF RICHARD WIRZ
Palazzo Giuseppe, San Luis Obispo
PB&J of Foie Gras, Peanut Brioche, Quince
Jam, Bliss Maple Syrup, Peanut Dust
CHEF JENSEN LORENZEN
Cass House, Cayucos
Crunchy Almond Dumplings in Almond Milk Green Curry
CHEF KIRK SOWELL
Frankie and Lola’s Front Street Café
FOR OUR FAVORITE RECIPES FROM THE COMPETITION, GO TO CENTRALCOASTMAG.COM
13. 50
PARTICIPATING CHEFS
NICOLA
ALLEGRETTA
Mama’s Meatball
570 Higuera St., SLO
mamasmeatball.com
MARK
AYERS
Pacific’s Edge Restaurant
120 Highlands Dr., Carmel
pacificsedge.com
ANDY
BROOKS
Brooks
545 E. Thompson, Ventura
restaurantbrooks.com
BRIAN
CHRISTIANSEN
Stokes Restaurant & Bar
500 Hartnell St., Monterey
stokesrestaurant.com
TOM
FUNDARO
Villa Creek
1144 Pine St., Paso Robles
villacreek.com
JUSTIN
GABBERT
Novo Restaurant & Lounge
726 Higuera St., SLO
novorestaurant.com
TIM
KILCOYNE
The Sidecar Restaurant
3029 E. Main St., Ventura
thesidecarrestaurant.com
JENSEN
LORENZEN
Cass House Restaurant
222 N. Ocean Ave., Cayucos
casshouseinn.com
DOUG
MACMILLAN
Rosa’s Italian Restaurant
491 Price St., Pismo Beach
rosasrestaurant.com
TORY
MARTINDALE
Bella Vista at Four Seasons
The Biltmore Santa Barbara
1260 Channel Dr., SB
fourseasons.com/santabarbara
DAVID
MCWILLIAM
The Gardens of Avila at
Sycamore Mineral Springs
1215 Avila Beach Dr., SLO
sycamoresprings.com
DAVID
MILLER
Level 4 Restaurant & Lounge
1216 Park St., Paso Robles
level4speakeasy.com
GREG
MURPHY
Seagrass Restaurant
30 E. Ortega St., SB
seagrassrestaurant.com
DAVID
REARDON
Miró at Bacara Resort & Spa
8301 Hollister Ave., SB
bacararesort.com
DEBORAH
SCARBOROUGH
Black Cat Bistro
1602 Main St., Cambria
blackcatbistro.com
KIRK
SOWELL
Frankie & Lola’s Front St. Café
1154 Front St., Morro Bay
frankieandlolas.com
WILL
TORRES
Deborah’s Room at the JustInn
11680 Chimney Rock Rd.
Paso Robles
justinwine.com
GREGG
WANGARD
Marisol at the Cliffs Resort
2757 Shell Beach Rd.
Pismo Beach
cliffsresort.com
KELLY
WANGARD
Paso Robles Inn Steakhouse
1103 Spring St., Paso Robles
pasoroblesinn.com
SHAWN
WASHBURN
Shawn’s on Main
912 Main St., Morro Bay
shawnsonmain.com
RICHARD
WIRZ
Palazzo Giuseppe
1010 Court St., SLO
giuseppesrestaurant.com
PHOTOBYSHELLYVINSON
Want more delicious details? Visit centralcoastmag.com
to peruse menus from each of our Ultimate Chef
competitors, and find recipes of their top-scoring dishes.
ANNE VIDOR, Editorial Director, Central
Coast Magazine
KRISTIN GILLESPIE, Managing Editor,
Central Coast Magazine
EVAN TREADWELL, Executive Chef, Lido
Restaurant at Dolphin Bay Resort and
Spa, 2008 Ultimate Chef Central Coast
KATHY MARCKS HARDESTY, Freelance
Food and Wine Writer,
Central Coast Magazine, New Times
PHILLIP RICCOMINI, Culinary Arts
Instructor, Cuesta College and
Paso Robles High School
JEFF OLSSON, Chef/Owner,
New West Catering
TONY BAKER, Chef/Partner,
Montrio Bistro
RYAN SWARTHOUT, Executive Chef,
Summerwood Inn and Winery
PAMELA TREADWELL, Food and
Beverage Industry Professional/
Hospitality Consultant
THE JUDGES
14. March 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 1
getawaysKRISTIN GILLESPIE
G
azing upon the sweeping, 120-
acre landscape of the Huntington
Botanical Gardens, located in the
exclusive Pasadena-adjacent town of San
Marino, it seems impossible that the towering
skyscrapers and honking horns of downtown
Los Angeles lie a mere 12 miles south. Yet, an
informed visitor will recognize that the dense
population and development that define
Southern California can be largely attributed to
the garden’s founder, 19th
century railroad and
real estate magnate Henry E. Huntington.
Though he was without question a man of
vision, Henry Huntington could hardly have
imagined that the Huntington Library, Art
Collections, and Gardens—a 207-acre site
donated from his family’s 600-acre estate
in 1919—would one day attract half a million
visitors annually. But he might not have been
surprised to learn that the gardens he began
to develop in 1903 would continue to evolve
well into the next millennium, most recently
exemplified by the opening of the majestic
Garden of Flowing Fragrance in February.
Rooted in the fertile soil of the past, yet
continually growing toward the future, the
Huntington Botanical Gardens are as tranquil as
they are inspiring. A few-hours-drive is all that
separates Central Coast horticulture fanatics
from this international tourist destination. »
BotanicalGardens
China’s continuous tradition of garden design
is the oldest in the world, artistically combining
architecture, paintings and furniture, poetic and
historical references, and symbolic choices of
plants and their placement. Here, the Pavilion
of the Three Friends is adorned with carvings
referring to the traditional “three friends of
winter” in Chinese culture—bamboo, pine, and
plum blossoms—and is situated near a grove
where those three symbolic companions grow.
Hand-painted scroll by Liu Fang Yuan bearing
the name of the new Chinese Garden at the
Huntington: The Garden of Flowing Fragrance.
HUNTINGTON
the
PHOTOSCOURTESYTHEHUNTINGTON
15. March 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 3
getaways
2 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE March 2008
La Rose Impériale: The Development of Modern Roses
February 9 – April 28, 2008
Presented in conjunction with the 100th
anniversary of the Rose Garden, this exhibition
explores the story of Empress Joséphine, wife
of Napoléon Bonaparte, and her influence over
the development of modern roses. The imperial
allure and popularity attributed to her collections
accelerated the development of new hybrids in
the late 18th century as she relentlessly sought
new varieties for the gardens of her estate,
Château Malmaison. The Huntington’s collections
of rare botanical books, including a first edition of
Les Roses, the great three-volume work based on
a series of paintings commissioned by Joséphine
to immortalize her roses, and other beautifully
illustrated works will be on display as part of
the year-long centennial celebration.
Garden is the Huntington’s most ambitious effort
to recreate the physical features of a landscape,
as well as its more intangible atmospheric
qualities that inspire visitors to linger.
Admission to the Huntington includes access
to four art galleries that showcase magnificent
collections of paintings, sculptures, and decorative
art. The most famous pieces include two 18th
century British paintings: Thomas Gainsborough’s
The Blue Boy, and Sir Thomas Lawrence’s Pinkie.
Visitors are also welcome to view exhibits of
rare books and manuscripts at the Huntington
Library, though use of these priceless materials
is restricted to qualified scholars. All visitors,
however, are welcome to enjoy a much-deserved
respite in the charming Rose Garden Tea Room,
where hot tea, fresh scones, and an inviting buffet
of finger sandwiches, salads, and desserts await
the weary, yet content, garden explorer.
The Rose Garden Tea Room is set amidst 3.5 acres of roses, in peak bloom from late April
through early June.
The magical, thought-provoking surroundings in the Children’s Garden
encourage intellectual and physical engagement with the garden at a scale
and level just right for youngsters.
The Huntington
Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens
1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino
(626) 405-2100; www.huntington.org
Admission: $15 – $20
Hours: M/W/Th/F: 12 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.
Sat/Sun: 10:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.
Closed Tuesdays
Rosa indica cruenta, from Pierre-Joseph
Redouté’s Les Roses, 1817 – 24.
Photo courtesy The Huntington Library
getaways
W
ith over a dozen specialty
gardens, the Huntington transports
visitors through a broad array of
landscapes linked together via sprawling lawns
and meandering paths. Walking shoes, sun
protection, and a bottle of water will ensure a
comfortable and rewarding journey.
The Desert Garden is the Huntington’s
signature conservation collection, containing
one of the largest and oldest assemblages of
cacti and other succulents in the world, while
the Japanese Garden offers an awe-inspiring
yet calming retreat from the demands of daily
life. Celebrating its 100th
anniversary this year,
the Rose Garden showcases the history of the
rose from the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and
Romans up through the present day. And with
five stone bridges, a canyon waterfall, and
a 1.5-acre lake, the newly opened Chinese
A Walk to Remember
The elegant, hand-carved Jade Ribbon Bridge leads to the Isle of Alighting Geese at the serene
center of the lake. Intended for strolling, contemplation, and social gathering, this garden
celebrates the Suzhou style which inspired it.
In the Desert Garden, staff and volunteers work to ensure the propagation, conservation, and distribution of
holdings that are rare, endangered, or of significant historic, scientific, or economic value.
The four spectacular acres of the Lily Pond Garden are home to koi,
turtles, and aquatic plants.
16. March 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 5
getaways
4 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE March 2008
Tuesday through Saturday. For breakfast, lunch,
or a more casual dinner, the poolside restaurant
The Terrace is a superb choice. Both of these
restaurants offer creative menus, top-notch
service, and extensive wine lists that will make
you glad you decided to forgo a drive into town.
After dinner, enjoy fireside cocktails and—on
Friday and Saturday nights—live music in The
Bar, where the plush seating and cozy wood-
paneling will make unwinding a breeze.
When it’s time for bed, you will discover
that the guestrooms at the Langham are as
distinctively and beautifully appointed as the
rest of the hotel. A spacious bathroom designed
in full Italian marble, a heavenly bed layered
in luxurious linens, and a breathtaking view of
the property and the San Gabriel Mountains
make for a truly peaceful and pampered stay.
For the ultimate in indulgence, book a room
on one of the hotel’s two Club Floors (7th
and
8th
) where guests are given keyed access to
the private Club Lounge. The lounge offers
personal concierge service and five amazing
food and beverage presentations throughout the
day, beginning at breakfast and concluding with
chocolates and cordials in the evening.
http://pasadena.langhamhotels.com
Just two miles from the Huntington
Botanical Gardens, perched on a knoll
along the San Gabriel Mountain foothills,
sits a landmark hotel that is a masterpiece of
Pasadena’s rich history as a tourist center and
winter escape for the wealthy. This stylish
resort has undergone extensive renovation
during its 100-year history, including being
virtually rebuilt for seismic stability in the
1990s. Today, in its most recent incarnation
as the newest member of international
luxury boutique hotel collection, Langham,
the Huntington Hotel & Spa retains the
serene elegance that made this the premiere
destination for celebrities and literati in Henry
Huntington’s heyday.
For Central Coast travelers seeking a gardener’s
getaway, there is no finer place to rest and
recharge. Stroll along the paths lining the resort’s
23 gorgeously landscaped acres, enjoy afternoon
tea in the warm atmosphere of The Lobby
Lounge, or soak up the luxurious amenities
in the award-winning Huntington Spa; the
Langham delights all of the senses, making it
impossible to remember whatever traffic you
may have encountered on your drive south.
Hungry hotel guests can keep the tranquility
flowing by dining on the premises. Awarded a
Michelin Star in November of 2007, The Dining
Room at the Langham, overseen by celebrated
Chef de Cuisine Craig Strong, serves dinner
ARoomwithaView:
The Langham, Huntington Hotel & SpaPHOTOSCOURTESYTHELANGHAM
More to Explore
In the picturesque town of San Marino, the charming
Julienne is a local favorite for breakfast or lunch. If it’s
a weekend or holiday you’re likely to wait, but that
will just allow you a little time to explore the adjacent
gourmet market. Once seated, if you like bread
pudding, try the Baked Crème Brûlée French Toast
with Fresh Strawberry Sauce and Crème Anglaise; for
more savory fare, the Parmesan Crusted Potato Cake
with Poached Eggs, Guacamole, and Pico de Gallo is
sure to satisfy.
Closed Sundays.
2651 Mission St., San Marino
www.juliennetogo.com
Pasadena is rich in architectural heritage, which can
be explored on foot or by bicycle (rentals available
at the Huntington Spa). The Convention and Visitors
Bureau has assembled 10 Architectural Tours
highlighting a diversity of landmarks dating from the
late 1880s. An outstanding example of American Arts
and Crafts style architecture, the Gamble House (of
Proctor and Gamble) is celebrating its centennial.
Open for public tours Thursday through Sunday.
www.pasadenacal.com
www.gamblehouse.org
A visit to this region would not be complete without an
evening at the Pasadena Playhouse, where familiar
faces from the small and big screen take the stage in
a mix of traditional and cutting-edge productions. This
season’s shows range from a musical version of the
film Mask to John Steinbeck’s Of Mice and Men. Buy
tickets in advance, as shows sell out.
www.pasadenaplayhouse.org
getaways
17. May 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 1
FOOD & WINE
In each issue of CCM, we highlight a local farmer and a seasonal food with recipe suggestions to inspire new ways to
incorporate that food—be it beet or berry—into your diet. As part of this effort to encourage support for our farmers,
manufacturers, and independent and farmer’s markets, we annually bring you a piece devoted to lavishing love on our local
producers. This year, we decided to celebrate our homegrown, homemade delights in the best way we know how: we threw
a party! As you can see, whether you’re planning a casual summer gathering with croquet, chilled beers, and all the salty,
savory fixin’s, or a fancy wine-themed fête with perfectly paired snacks—producers of the Central Coast will outfit you with
all the ingredients for a get together made, here, in paradise.
LOCAL PARTY FLAVORS
So, go ahead, party like a locavore!»
18. 2 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE May 2008 May 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 3
Oils of Paicines:
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
A small, family-run operation in San Benito County started
by two physicians, Jerry Ginsberg and Barbara Rever, Oils
of Paicines uses Certified Organic Mission olives for their
award-winning extra virgin oil. The delicious, buttery oil has
hints of fruitiness, making it a flavorful dip with bread or a
versatile cooking companion. It can be found at independent
markets like New Frontiers, Spencer’s, and Lassen’s, or
online at www.oilsofpaicines.com.
Future Fine Foods Olive Bread
Santa Barbara’s Future Fine Foods started as a line of specialty foods in 1990;
now, the company bakes fresh, gourmet and ethnic breads and bagels with
superior ingredients for retailers and restaurants from L.A. to San Luis Obispo.
We found their handcrafted Future Olive Bread—an ancient Ottoman recipe,
embedded with Italian olives and herbs—to be simply scrumptious. Look for it
and other gourmet loaves in New Frontiers, Lazy Acres, and other fine markets.
2613 De La Vina St., Santa Barbara; (805) 569-9244; www.futurefinefoods.com
Los Olivos Grocery:
12-year Italian Fig Balsamic Vinegar
If you’ve been to Los Olivos Grocery, you know what a
whirlwind of delectable delicacies you’ll encounter down
each and every aisle; but, next time you’re in, don’t pass
up their singular 12-year Italian Fig Balsamic Vinegar. In
a tall bottle, labeled simply with the market’s logo, this
luscious concoction (made exclusively for them by Vision
Pack in Buellton) transforms mere bread into an elegant hors
d’oeuvre.
2621 Hwy. 154, Santa Ynez; (805) 688-5115;
www.losolivosgrocery.com
Allocco’s Italian Bakery: Taralli
The concept of Taralli is not an easy one for Americans to digest. Defined as gourmet
Italian pretzels, the ring-shaped curiosities are really much more like crackers. Owner
Phyllis Simeone says in Italy, people used to dunk the crunchy, savory crackers in
wine. You might be more inclined to serve these snacks with tapenade, cheese, or
all by themselves. Look for them in nine different flavors at Crushed Grape, De Palo
& Sons, at farmer’s markets, or, of course, at Allocco’s Italian Bakery. And don’t try to
find other brands—Phyllis claims they’re the only ones under the western U.S. sun!
1602 Main St., Cambria; (805) 927-1501; www.alloccos.com
Paso Robles K’ulinary Gourmet Spreads:
Olive Antipasto
Chef Claude Chazalon and his wife Chrystel, formerly of Paris restaurant in Paso
Robles, again offer their culinary genius to Central Coast foodies with a line of
authentic French, premium tapenades. Soon to reintroduce their delicious
ratatouille, they currently sell an Olive Antipasto and both Black Olive and Black &
Green Olive Tapenade. These savory spreads are perfect for breads and crackers
and also go well with salad, pasta, and meat. Find their products at We
Olive, Pasolivo, Verena’s Go Gourmet, and many local wineries. (805) 227-4082
http://pasocatering.com
Dr. Tedone’s Fresh New York Style Mozzarella
We had to wait in line behind a strand of locals in Shell Beach who daily
race to De Palo & Sons market for Dr. Tedone’s freshly made, mouthwatering
mozzarella. Dr. Louis Tedone, father-in-law of the market’s owner, brought his
craft from his childhood family grocery in New York and makes two to four fresh
batches daily and up to 500 pounds per week for De Palo’s eager cheese fans.
Delicious on its own, with oil and vinegar, or cooked up in pizza and lasagna,
this mozzarella is best consumed within 24 hours—if you can wait that long!
2665 Shell Beach Rd., Shell Beach; (805) 773-1589; www.depaloandsons.com
food & wine
WINEPARTY
INGREDIENTS FOR A SOPHISTICATED WINE PARTY: Local wine of your choice paired with
snacks made to complement and enhance: bread, olive oil, vinegar, tapenade, cheese, and crackers.
19. 4 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE May 2008 May 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 5
Firestone Walker Brewing
Company: Union Jack IPA
Begun in 1996 by brothers-in-law Adam Firestone
and David Walker, and led to brilliant success by
Brewmaster Matt Brynildson—Paso Robles’ own
Firestone Walker Brewing Company is recognized as
one of the top breweries in the world. The newest
addition to their House of Ales—which includes
the well-established Double Barrel Ale and Pale
31—is the Union Jack. An India Pale Ale style
beer with bright, citrus notes, the refreshing Union
Jack certainly lives up to its elder ales and deftly
quenched our palates after all the salty snacks we
enjoyed with it. Try their ales at the brewery in Paso
Robles, the Taproom in Buellton, or find the cleverly
packaged bottles at stores all over California.
www.firestonewalker.com
Ted’s Pistachios and Almonds
Ted Stebbins’ nut company, based in Arroyo Grande
with roasting facilities in the Central Valley, provides
quality pistachios to many Central Coast markets
including JJ’s, Albertsons, and OSH. These premium
nuts would pair perfectly with either beer or wine
depending on the type of nut you choose. We
snagged his smoky, spicy, and superb chili lemon
pistachios and his salted almonds to kick start our
beer bash, and they certainly did the job.
2821 Northview Ave., Arroyo Grande; (805) 474-8617
Taco Works Tortilla Chips
Taco Works tortilla chips are a staple of many Central
Coasters’ diets. Run by Therese and Ty Bayly since
1979, this “little tortilla chip factory” pumps out
some finger-licking good seasoned chips in several
spice varieties. Our favorite, though, is the “Montaña
de Oro” variety—lightly crispy, not too salty, and a
perfect party starter. Serve with Taco Works medium
salsa, or try Red Hot Foods’ salsas to add a real kick.
Available at De Palo & Sons, Spencer’s, Scolari’s,
and most grocery stores in San Luis Obispo County.
3424 Sacramento Dr., San Luis Obispo; (805) 541-1556
Red Hot Foods: El Scorcho Salsa
Established in 1995 in Oxnard by Butch and
Burma Baselice, Red Hot Foods now operates out
of Santa Paula, producing over 80 spicy sauces
and condiments for retail and wholesale. Find their
fiery retail recipes at farmer’s markets in Ojai and
Camarillo, or look for their name at the Oxnard
Salsa Festival. We found their Channel Islands
chipotle and El Scorcho salsa to be particularly
hot and tasty, while the milder artichoke sauce
was savory and safe for more sensitive taste buds.
(805) 258-3650
We Olive:
Green Olive and Lemon Mustard
Gary and DeeDee Brown began We Olive in Paso
Robles in 2003 and now offer the finest local and
imported artisan oils, dips, vinegars, and more
from locations in Fresno, Riverside, and San Luis
Obispo (with more soon to come across the nation).
Their Green Olive and Lemon Mustard was an
interesting and delightful alternative to your average
honey or Dijon, and could have gone as well with
Allocco’s Taralli as with Cattaneo Bros.’ sausages.
www.weolive.com
Cattaneo Bros.:
Portuguese Linguica Sausage
Now celebrating 60 years of savory beef jerky and
European style sausages, Cattaneo Bros. in San Luis
Obispo also offers nuts,dried fruit,beef sticks,candy,
and more—making it the ideal source for essential
party snacks.We found their sizzling Spicy Caballero
and surprisingly sweet Portuguese Linguica sausage
to pair perfectly with both Firestone and We Olive’s
mustards; but, they also make a great addition to
appetizer sandwiches, pizzas, and salads. Look for
Cattaneo goods at their factory and at JJ’s, Scolari’s,
Los Olivos Grocery, and many other markets.
769 Caudill St., San Luis Obispo; www.cattaneobros.com
food & wine
ABEERBASH
INGREDIENTS FOR A SUCCESSFUL BEER BASH: Quality local beer served with finger-lickin’-
good snacks like chips and fiery salsa, pistachios, and sausage with mustard.