NEW INGREDIENTS PANEL SESSION What are the best new ingredients on the market today and do they live up to their claims? This session allows suppliers to showcase new products and gives you the chance to ask questions relating to them. Fanny Coste, Sales and Marketing Director - Aqua Bio Technology

1. Aquabeautine XL™
The Natural and Gentle Skin Refinisher
1

2. ABT 3
Background 4
Effects 5
Efficacy 9
Safety & Toxicity 19
Sustainability 21
Formulating with Aquabeautine XL™ 22
Summary 25
Appendix: Marketing a Fish Derivative 27

3. ABT ASA in Brief
 Norwegian company founded by Professor
Bernt Th. Walther (PhD) in 2000, an
embryologist.
 Listed on Oslo Stock Exchange (Axess)
since January 2008 (ABT.OAX).
 Develops & markets marine raw materials
to the global personal care industry:
 Truly novel,
 100% natural & sustainably sourced
from the pure and protected
environment of Northern waters,
 Proven safety and efficacy,
 Patented globally.
3

4. Background
 Salmon hatchery workers in Norway
reported that their hands became soft
and smooth after sorting salmon eggs
despite the prolonged exposure to
cold water.
 Research interest: a unique serine
endo-protease, the zonase™ enzyme,
was first discovered in 1997 at the
University of Bergen.
4

5. Hatching Fluid & Zonase™ Enzyme
 The zonase™ helps the larva getting
out of its eggshell by digesting this
farmed Atlantic salmon
tough, fibrous protein structure,
but without harming the delicate
baby fish.
 ABT has patented the technology to
extract Aquabeautine XL™ from the
water after the hatching has taken
place and the uses of hatching fluid
in cosmetics.
hatching fluid Aquabeautine XL™
 The baby fish is unharmed in the
process. 5

6. Zonase™ Effect on Human Skin
 In humans, the zonase™ degrades
General structure of the epidermis
corneodesmosomes, specific cell
binding sites in the stratum
corneum, similar to its natural
substrate, and gently removes
dead skin cells without harming
the living skin cells beneath.
 The zonase™ is the only known
non-selfdegrading and innocuous
protease.
Denecker G et al. J Cell Biol 2008;180:451-458 6

7. Aquabeautine XL™: A Unique Protein Solution
 The hatching fluid does not only contain the zonase™ enzyme,
 It is a potent mixture of diverse proteins with various skincare properties.
zonase™ protease
Zonase™ protease
 Micro-exfoliation
Aquabeautine Structural proteins
XL™ Proteins and peptides from
the eggshell hydrolyzed by
glyco- structural the zonase™ enzyme
proteins proteins
 Skin conditioning
Glycoproteins
Secreted by specific cells
of the fish larva
 Anti-ageing effect,
trigger skin repair/
rejuvenation 7

8. Aquabeautine XL™ Key Benefits
With Aquabeautine XL™ Aquabeautine XL™ has 3 main effects on
human skin:
3 2 1
1. Gentle exfoliation: The zonase™ enzyme
delaminates the outer part of the stratum
corneum.
2. Moisturizing effect: Other active
components penetrate and transport
Without Aquabeautine XL™ moisture and nutrition deeper into the
stratum corneum.
3. Rejuvenating effect: The effect is caused
by elevated differentiation of cells into
keratinocytes.
Skin models from SkinEthic treated with Aquabeautine XL™ for 6 hours at 30º C, Source: University of Bergen
8

9. Exfoliation
0% Aquabeautine XL™ 1 % Aquabeatine XL™ 10 % Aquabeautine XL™
Skin models (SkinEthic) stained with dancyl chloride (yellow color) treated with 0%, 1% and 10% of
Aquabeautine XL™ in a cosmetic formulation for 10 hours
 Apparent exfoliation effect in a concentration dependent fashion
Source: University of Bergen 9

10. Comparative Study
Aquabeautine XL™ vs. an AHA and a fruit enzyme
Reconstructed Human Epidermis
(SkinEthic), exposed for either 5 minutes,
12 hours, 24 hours or 48 hours to either
200 µl of:
 1% Aquabeautine XL™,
 5% Glycolic Acid (AHA),
 1 mU/ml Bromelain (fruit enzyme),
 dH2O (control),
on the stratum corneum side.
After exposure, cultures either fixated in
4% (w/v) paraformaldehyde in PBS at 4ºC
or used in a MTT-assay.
 Results from immunohistochemistry are yet to come!
10

11. Comparative Study: SEM Images after 12h
x 400 x 5000 x 15000
Deionised H2O
Control
5% Glycolic Acid
Damaged stratum corneum, skin corrosion.
1mU/ml Bromelain
Desquamation by digestion of the cells envelope.
1% Aquabeautine XL™
Desquamation by shedding of intact corneocytes.
Only the cell binding sites have been degraded.
 Gentle micro-exfoliation 11
Evaluation of effect of chemicals on human skin analogue - Source: University of Bergen

12. Comparative Study: SEM Images after 48h
x 400 x 5000 x 15000
Deionised H2O
Control
5% Glycolic Acid
Heavily damaged skin: broken cell envelope
with apparent cell skeleton.
1mU/ml Bromelain
Fairly smooth skin surface but presence of
rough patches.
1% Aquabeautine XL™
Ultra smooth skin surface, better than control.
 Skin smoothing effect
12
Evaluation of effect of chemicals on human skin analogue - Source: University of Bergen

13. Comparative Study: Histology after 24h/48h
Control 5% Glycolic Acid 1mU/ml Bromelain 1% Aquabeautine XL™
(untreated) 24h 24h 24h
Cell proliferation and
differentiation.
 Skin rejuvenating effect
48h
Destroyed living cells, Minimal alterations in
including epidermal the stratum basale and
stems cells from the the stratum spinosum.
stratum basale. Only Denser stratum granulosum,
pyknotic nuclei left in a higher concentration of
few places and the lamellar granules.
anucleated cells matrix.
 Improvement of skin
barrier function
The stratum corneum is highly hydrated in the 3 cases.
13
Evaluation of effect of chemicals on human skin analogue - Source: University of Bergen

14. Apparent Effect on Sunburn
Preliminary study
0h 24 h 45 h 70 h
0% Aquabeautine XL™
10 % Aquabeautine XL™
Redness of sunburns on a male test subject - Source: University of Bergen
Redness subsiding in 24 hours and disappeared within 72
hours when treated with a cosmetic base cream containing
Aquabeautine XL™.
 Soothing effect 14

15. In Vivo Clinical Trial
 Single center, double blind, placebo controlled clinical trial is being conducted to
evaluate the effectiveness and tolerance of topical skin treatments containing
Aquabeautine XL™ in females with mild to moderate photodamaged facial skin.
 Duration :12 weeks, visits scheduled at baseline, Week 2, Week 6 and Week 12.
 Min. 90 female subjects, ages 40-65, N≥30 for 3 cells: 0% Aquabeautine XL™
(control), 1% Aquabeautine XL™ , 3% Aquabeautine XL™ in vehicle (skin lotion).
 Efficacy assessed on both sides of the face using:
• Visual/tactile grading: clinical scoring for lines, wrinkles, mottled
hyperpigmentation, laxity, clarity and roughness, for objective and
subjective irritation,
• Instrumentation: cutometer and transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
measurements,
• Digital VISIA CR photographs,
• Subject self-assessment questionnaires.
 Trial started on January 14th. Final results due in June!
15

16. In Vivo Clinical Trial: Results after 2 weeks
Tactile Roughness Dullness
Aquabeautine XL™ 1%
Aquabeautine XL™ 3%
Aquabeautine XL™ 1%
Aquabeautine XL™ 3%
 Skin smoothness and
Placebo
Placebo
clarity significantly
improved after 2 weeks. 0%
% variation compared to baseline
-5%
 No irritation (erythema,
burning/stinging, -10%
itching) observed, even -11%
at 3%. -15%
-13% -13%
-17% -16%
-20%
-20%
-25%
N=102, p<0.0001
Tactile/visual clinical grading on both sides of the face, 0-9 scale
16

17. In Vivo Clinical Trial: Results after 6 weeks
Tactile Roughness Dullness
 Greater improvement of skin
Aquabeautine XL™ 1%
Aquabeautine XL™ 3%
Aquabeautine XL™ 1%
Aquabeautine XL™ 3%
smoothness and clarity, actually
perceived by the panelists.
 Questionnaires at 6 weeks reveal that
Placebo
Placebo
statistically significant differences
were found for mean scores of
0%
statements about overall appearance,
overall feel, smoother and softer skin
between the placebo and the products -5%
containing Aquabeautine XL™.
 Ultra mild active ingredient that % variation compared to baseline -10%
perfects the complexion
Skin becomes smooth and even with a -15%
youthful glow. -16%
-20%
-19%
 Final results after 12 weeks are
yet to come!
-25%
-25%
N=101, p<0.0001 -26%
Tactile/visual clinical grading on both sides of the face,
0-9 scale -30% -29% -28%
17

18. In Vivo Clinical Trial: Results after 6 weeks
Aquabeautine XL™ 3%
Before
After

19. Safety & Toxicity
Cytotoxicity (157 x recommended concentration)
Human keratinocytes were exposed to Aquabeautine XLTM for 6
and 24 hours using a MTT test, no cytotoxic effect was detected.
Het Cam (in vitro ocular irritation assay) (2600 x
the recommended concentration)
Aquabeautine XLTM at this very concentration was scored as 4.5
out of 12 (Slightly irritant).
Single Patch Test (10 tp / 175 x recommended
concentration)
200 µl of Aquabeautine XLTM was left on the back of adults for 48
hours. Aquabeautine XLTM at this concentration was found very
slightly irritant.
19

20. Safety & Toxicity
HRIPT (Human Repeated Insult Patch Test)
(100 tp/ 50 x recommended concentration)
Using a Marzulli-Maibach method, Aquabeautine XL™ at
this concentration can be considered non-irritating and
non-sensitizing.
Ames Test (mutagenicity) (2600 x
recommended concentration)
A Bacterial Reverse Mutation Test (Ames test) found
Aquabeautine XL™ at this high concentration to be non-
mutagenic and non-promutagenic.
No Antibiotic Activity
15 types bacteria and 2 types fungi were tested.
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21. Sustainability
 Aquabeautine XL™ is produced as a by-product of
the Norwegian salmon farming industry – no
animals are harmed in the process.
 Aquabeautine XL™ is not derived from Genetically
Modified Organisms.
 Aquabeautine XL™ is collected at the sole
hatchery by Lygrepollen, at the end of
Eikelandsfjord. The hatchery’s fresh water supply
comes from Håvikvatnet, a secluded lake famed
for the quality of its water and fishing.
 If not collected, the proteins in Aquabeautine XL™
would be released into the wild and biodegraded.
 All proteins are shown to be biodegradable. Nowhere in
nature are proteins seen to accumulate. Proteins are
constantly recycled as the amino acids are used as
building blocks for new proteins.
21

22. Formulating with Aquabeautine XL™
 INCI name: Hydrolyzed Salmon Egg Shell
Extract
 Easy to formulate: colorless, odorless.
 Non tacky, does not impact the aesthetics
or stability of a formula.
 Active in a broader and more skin-friendly
pH range than hydroxy-acids: 5.5 – 9, with
maximum activity at around pH 7.5.
 Suitable for a wide range of cosmetics
applications, even for sensitive skins.
 Recommended level: 0.5 to 3%.
 An exceptionally stable ingredient with a
shelf life in cosmetic products measured to
be several years (enzymatic activity
retained).
22

23. Formulating with Aquabeautine XL™
 Supplied as a preservative-free, sterile solution.
 Ideally, should be kept frozen to ensure maximum shelf life (>24 months). Storage at 4˚C
is possible for several months. (For short periods of time (e.g. transportation) storage at
room temperature is ok.)
 Should be used as soon as the bottle seal is broken. Resealing of the bottle is not
recommended.
 Should not be exposed to temperatures exceeding 65°C. Best added at the end of the
manufacturing process, during cooling, at a temperature below 40°C.
Solvent Compatible
Water yes
Glycerin yes
Alcohol Small amounts only. 20% alcohol renders
the enzymes inactive.
O/W emulsion Acrylates yes
based
O/W emulsion Xanthan yes
Gum based
W/O emulsion yes
23

24. Formulating with Aquabeautine XL™
 Aquabeautine XL™ has a prolonged micro-exfoliating effect and is ideal for:
 Daily-use leave-on facial products: creams, lotions, toners, etc.,
 Overnight treatments,
 Cleansers/masks, in combination with other ingredients, for immediate
and delayed results,
 Body care products: body lotions, hand creams, lip balms.
 Its unique properties makes it particularly suitable for the following segments:
 Anti-ageing,
 Brightening,
 After-sun,
 Natural & organic cosmetics,
 Cosmeceuticals,
 Products for sensitive skin,
 Spa products.
24

25. Summary
Aquabeautine XL™, a gentle multifunctional ingredient to perfect the
complexion, to get a smooth and even skin with a youthful glow.
Aquabeautine XL™ key features are:
 Novel and unique,
 Biospecific exfoliant that gently detaches dead cells in the outer
layer of human skin without affecting living cells beneath, proven
to render comparable results to common hydroxy-acids without skin
irritation,
 Documented added benefits: moisturization, anti-ageing (skin
rejuvenation) and soothing effect (under certain conditions e.g.
sunburn),
 100% natural and biodegradable: designed by nature and derived
from a sustainable source,
 Safe and non-toxic: extensive testing by independent laboratories,
 Ease of formulation: colourless, odourless and active in a broad pH
range,
 Suitable for a wide range of cosmetics applications, even for the
most sensitive skins,
 Proven stability for years in products under standard conditions,
unlike common proteases,
 Patented globally. 25

26. Aquabeautine XL™ : Simply Better than Competition
Non-specific Aquabeautine
Features Abrasives Hydroxy Acids
proteases XL™
100% natural    
Anti-ageing benefit   
Biospecific 
Non-cytotoxic  
Non-irritating   
Stable   
Broad pH range   
Does not impact
aesthetics (color,
odor, texture)
  
26

27. Marketing a Fish Derivative
 Aquabeautine XL™ is derived from
salmon roe or “red caviar” as it is
otherwise known.
 Given its high price, caviar is
associated with luxury. In Russia and
other Eastern European countries,
caviar is commonly served during
festive occasions. In Russia, the
concept generally includes both
sturgeon roe (black caviar) and salmon
roe (red caviar), the former not
necessarily superior to the latter.
 Salmon roe is called "ikura" in Japan, a
derivative of the Russian "ikra" (caviar)
and is considered a delicacy.
27

28. Contact
Sales & Marketing Director: Fanny Coste
Tel: +47 90 40 27 09
E-mail: fanny.coste@aquabiotech.no