New Technologies & Active Ingredients: Plant stem cells & Sustainability Critically analysing the sustainability benefits and accompanied challenges and limitation Future outlook for plant stem cells in cosmetics

1. • Founded in 1967 in Sweden
• International beauty company selling direct
• Portfolio of approx. 1,000 cosmetics products
• €1.4 billion /7300 employees
• 3.5 million Oriflame Consultants
• Catalogues (150M) distributed in 40 languages
• 90% of all Oriflame Consultants in many markets
using online tools
• Sustainability: long-term commitment

2. PLANT STEM CELLS
Alain Mavon, Ph.D
AN ‘ON TREND’ & SUSTAINABLE SOURCE
OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
May 21-23,
Roma, Italy

3. Mibelle, 2008
PhytocellTechTM
of malus domestica
2% extract reduced by
15% wrinkles in a month”
AN APPLE A DAY
MAY KEEP WRINKLES AWAY …!

4. ”3lab immediatly put the apple-stem cell extract in its
Deluxe M Cream, out this month ….
Lancôme tweaked its own version of the apple complex
in the new Absolue Precious cell …
For a more recession friendly, Lumene, offers its new
ExCELLent Future Deep Repairing Cream, just under $30 ”
- Sarah Brown, VOGUE US, Nov 2009, p 154 -
Created the buzz …....!

6. I Can’t Believe The Hype – Beauty
Products With Plant Stem Cells …!
Posted: 06/30/10
“Plant stem cell is the most advanced scientific
innovation that reverses the signs of skin aging
through the power of cell regeneration”
Global Cosmeceuticals Market Outlook 2016, Feb. 2013
…. ALTHOUGH STILL LACKING RIGOROUS DATA OF EXTENSIVE HUMAN
STUDIES AND RESEARCH ON STEM CELLS, INTEREST CONTINUES TO RISE
Next Generation Cosmeceuticals, S. Malerich, D. Berson, Dermatol Clin 32 (2014) 13-21
Power Plant - Sustainability, because
farming isn’t involved fewer natural
resources are needed.
- April Long, ELLE, Skin Care, Feb. 26, 2013 -

7. Copyright ©2013 by Oriflame Cosmetics SA
ТВОИ МЕЧТЫ - НАШЕ ВДОХНОВЕНИЕ
IM-MORTAL : theoritical ability to an unlimited number of division
Shoots - Roots
Meristems
PLANT STEM CELLS
SOURCE OF PLANT GROWTH & RENEWAL

8. 8
PLANT STEM CELLS
BIOTECHNOLOGIES
… ACCESS TO “SECONDARY METABOLITES”

9. … are low molecular
weight compounds
that aid in the
adaptation of the
plant to their
environnement.
Because of their
siginificant
biological activity,
plant secondary
metabolites have
been used in
traditional medecine
for centuries.
Plantsecondarymetabolites

10. Initiation, growth and cryopreservation of plant cell suspension cultures
N.R. Mustafa, Nature Protocols 6, 715–742 2011

11. PLANTLETS and CALLUS

12.  Loss of productivity over time
 Spontaneous genetic variation of suspension cultures
 Shear sensitivity, slow growth rates, low oxygen requirement
Low content of secondary complex metabolites
PLANT STEM CELLS BIOTECHNOLOGIES

13. “PHARMA”
INDUSTRY ?
Paclitaxel / Taxol, Anti-cancer drug
(BMS, >$1 billion)

14. Initial Taxol demand
25 Kg/year
340,000 KG OF BARK
OR 38,000 TREES
Taxol is Extracted from bark of pacific yew tree (taxus brevifolia)
11 chemical steps, using 13 solvents,
13 organic reagents !!!!!
Chemical Synthesis

15. Recent advances towards development and commercialization of plant cell culture processes
for the synthesis of biomolecules, S. Wilson & S Roberts, Plant Biotech. J., 10, 249 -268, 2012.
About 250 kg
Today’s production is based
on plant stem cell
in 75,000 liters’ bioreactors

16. Bio-guided elicitation (anti-oxidant in tubo assay)
Jasmonic Acid or Me Jasmonate
Unpublished data, Oriflame, 2013
Extract of
reference -
Green Tea

17. Cultured cambial meristematic cells as a source of plant natural products, E.K. Lee et al. Nature Biotech
28, 1213-17 (2010) & Plant natural products from cultured multipotent cells S. Roberts et.al.
Nature Biotech 28, 1175-76 (2010)
Cambial Meristematic Cells
C.M.C.

18. 18
 Cultivation of rare / protected species
 No overexploitation of land
 No seasonal / geographical variation of crop
 No pesticides, fertilisers, heavy metals or GMO
 Less water & energy consumption
 Local sourcing & simplified harvesting
 Controlled conditions & high purity of Extracts
PLANT STEM CELLS
BIOTECHNOLOGIES

19. Brutal Facts

21. The June 2013 UNs’
report projects a
population of
9.6 billion by 2050

22. Because of their siginificant biological
activity, plant secondary metabolites
are used in traditional medecine
About 75% of people
worlwide rely on
Traditionnal Medecine
to meet their primary
healthcare needs
60% of anti-cancer
drugs, from natural origin

23. consumers

24. Green becomes the
New Black in skin care
*Source: Euromomitor International, Beauty and personal care skin care ; passport, Feb 2014

25. Green / Sustainable consumers’ trend
*Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, 2013
Europe
22 30 36 15 34 47 36 25 40 20
Asia Pacific
23 46 55 44 13 29 27
Americas
56 26 48 25
Middle East and Africa
36 50 49
GLOBAL TOTAL 34
Consumers who say that
green and sustainable
production methods
influence their personal
care purchases*

26. NATURAL INGREDIENT CLAIMS ARE HIGHLY INFLUENTIAL FOR OVER HALF OF GLOBAL
CONSUMERS* , 20 country average, 2011
Natural ingredients in personal Care
*Source : Datamonitor Consumer Survey, 2011

27. Health & … money
*Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey 2013
70% of skincare shoppers
globally1 agree that health and beauty
products formulated with "natural"
ingredients are better for them.
86% of skincare shoppers1
globally consider it reasonable to charge
a premium for "natural" products

28. Use of Science to achieve differentiation
and deliver multifunctional skincare
in a growing anti-aging market
…… so scientists will become more
important in all areas of our universe,
from retail, clothing and food to
branding, luxury and space tourism.

29. loyalty driver

30. “…..So you’re not going to take a cow, …
probably not a silk worm or a tree to Mars.

31. How NASA Prints Trees
Posted Feb 9, 2014 by Emelie Rutherford
“So instead of taking the
whole organism …
- so that you’re 3D
printing an array of
cells that then can
secrete or produce
these products? ”
…NASA-funded researchers
Rothschild & Gentry said !

32. 32
PLANT STEM CELLS
BIOTECHNOLOGIES
…“The science is still in its infancy, but we’re
at the beginning of something very exciting.”

33. Copyright ©2013 by Oriflame Cosmetics SA
ТВОИ МЕЧТЫ - НАШЕ ВДОХНОВЕНИЕ
Grazie!
Agriculture in
Ancient Rome