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459 Bells Creek Road, Beerwah, Qld, 4519 5494 0470 www.daleysturf.com.au
Locally Owned and Operated Since 1992
1800 325 3971800 325 397
Call Now or Order Online
GUIDE
WEED IDENTIFICATION
WEEDS
Nutgrass
(Cyperus rotundus)
Summergrass
(Digitaria sanguinalis,
D. ciliaris)
Paspalum
(Paspalum spp.)
Crowsfoot
(Eleusine indica &
E. tristachya)
Wintergrass
(Poa annua)
Mullumbimby Couch
(Cyperus brevifolius)
Clover
(Trifolium spp.)
Fleabane
(Conyza spp.)
Creeping Oxalis
(Oxalis corniculata)
Pennyweed
(Hydrocotyle
tripartita)
Plantain
(Plantago lanceolata)
Capeweed
(Artotheca calendula)
Mallow
(Malva parviflora)
Dandelion
(Gnaphalium spp.)
Catsear
(Hypochoeris spp.)
Bindii
(Soliva sesillis)
When you have a new lawn installed it’s imperative that you care
for it correctly so that it establishes and develops a strong root
system. Here are the top tips for Daleys Turf for caring for your
newly installed turf:
Watering
A heavy watering regime will ensure your new lawn doesn’t dry out
while keeping the soil soft for new root penetration. Never let the
new turf dry out. Of course, the amount of water the new lawn
needs will be determined by the current weather. During hot
weather you may need to water for 10 minutes four or five times per
day for the first week.
If it’s not too hot then watering once or twice a day may be enough.
If your new lawn is doing well then you can reduced the amount of
watering during week two – once a day during hot weather and
every second day during milder weather. By week four you should
be able to implement a normal watering routine of two deep
applications of water per week, dependent on natural rainfall
received.
Fertilising
Typically, new turf is fertilised before it leaves the turf farm so
there is no reason to fertilise within the first two months of
installation.
HOW TO CORRECTLY CARE FOR A NEW LAWN
459 Bells Creek Road, Beerwah, Qld, 4519
or call 5494 0470
For more handy tips visit www.daleysturf.com.au
Locally Owned and Operated Since 1992
GUIDE
WEED IDENTIFICATION
A = Annual
P = Perennial
F = Fair to good post emergent control
Pr = Pre Emergent
* = Control prior to 2 leaf stage
WEED
Lifecycle
Amicide625
Broadside
BromicideMA
Dimension
DSMAClear
Exporsan
Nugrass
KambaM
KerbWSP
Millennium
Monument
Pendulum
Poacheck
Progress
Ronstar
Sempra
Spearhead
Tupersan
Bindii A F F F F F F
Burr medic A F F F F F F F
Capeweed A F F F F F F
Catsear P F F F F F F
Clover P F F F F F F F
Crowsfoot A Pr F F Pr Pr
Cudweed A F F F F F F
Fleabane A F F F F
Hydrocotyle P F F F F
Mullumbimby
Couch
P F F F
Nutgrass P F F F
Oxalis,
creeping
P F F F F Pr F
Paspalum P F
Pearlwort P F F F
Plantain P F F F F F F
Summer
grass
A
Pr
F
*
F Pr Pr F
Wintergrass A Pr Pr
Pr
F
F Pr F
Pr
F
Pr
Control Guide
Ask your turf provider when the turf was last fertilised.
Mowing
You should not mow your new lawn until the turf in firmly rooted
in the soil. You can test this by finding a corner of the turf roll and
trying to pull it upwards. If the turf pulls upward then you should
leave mowing for another week. If the turf stays fixed to the soil
by the roots then it’s time for the first mowing.
New lawns can have a large amount of growth during the first few
weeks in its new home if cared for correctly. When you do
undertake the first mowing don’t remove too much of the leaf
blade; cut high for the first few times you mow. Reduce the
mowing height over a period of time, working to reach the target
height after the new lawn is fully established which can take up to
two or three months depending on growth and climate.
Stress
New lawns can suffer from stress so it’s important to keep an eye
on the lawn. You need to watch up for signs of dehydration in
particular. If the leaves begin to dry out or yellow you should
increase the watering frequency until correct hydration is reached.
For more information about new lawns contact the team at
Daleys Turf.

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How to-correctly-care-for-a-new-lawn

  • 1. 459 Bells Creek Road, Beerwah, Qld, 4519 5494 0470 www.daleysturf.com.au Locally Owned and Operated Since 1992 1800 325 3971800 325 397 Call Now or Order Online GUIDE WEED IDENTIFICATION WEEDS Nutgrass (Cyperus rotundus) Summergrass (Digitaria sanguinalis, D. ciliaris) Paspalum (Paspalum spp.) Crowsfoot (Eleusine indica & E. tristachya) Wintergrass (Poa annua) Mullumbimby Couch (Cyperus brevifolius) Clover (Trifolium spp.) Fleabane (Conyza spp.) Creeping Oxalis (Oxalis corniculata) Pennyweed (Hydrocotyle tripartita) Plantain (Plantago lanceolata) Capeweed (Artotheca calendula) Mallow (Malva parviflora) Dandelion (Gnaphalium spp.) Catsear (Hypochoeris spp.) Bindii (Soliva sesillis) When you have a new lawn installed it’s imperative that you care for it correctly so that it establishes and develops a strong root system. Here are the top tips for Daleys Turf for caring for your newly installed turf: Watering A heavy watering regime will ensure your new lawn doesn’t dry out while keeping the soil soft for new root penetration. Never let the new turf dry out. Of course, the amount of water the new lawn needs will be determined by the current weather. During hot weather you may need to water for 10 minutes four or five times per day for the first week. If it’s not too hot then watering once or twice a day may be enough. If your new lawn is doing well then you can reduced the amount of watering during week two – once a day during hot weather and every second day during milder weather. By week four you should be able to implement a normal watering routine of two deep applications of water per week, dependent on natural rainfall received. Fertilising Typically, new turf is fertilised before it leaves the turf farm so there is no reason to fertilise within the first two months of installation. HOW TO CORRECTLY CARE FOR A NEW LAWN
  • 2. 459 Bells Creek Road, Beerwah, Qld, 4519 or call 5494 0470 For more handy tips visit www.daleysturf.com.au Locally Owned and Operated Since 1992 GUIDE WEED IDENTIFICATION A = Annual P = Perennial F = Fair to good post emergent control Pr = Pre Emergent * = Control prior to 2 leaf stage WEED Lifecycle Amicide625 Broadside BromicideMA Dimension DSMAClear Exporsan Nugrass KambaM KerbWSP Millennium Monument Pendulum Poacheck Progress Ronstar Sempra Spearhead Tupersan Bindii A F F F F F F Burr medic A F F F F F F F Capeweed A F F F F F F Catsear P F F F F F F Clover P F F F F F F F Crowsfoot A Pr F F Pr Pr Cudweed A F F F F F F Fleabane A F F F F Hydrocotyle P F F F F Mullumbimby Couch P F F F Nutgrass P F F F Oxalis, creeping P F F F F Pr F Paspalum P F Pearlwort P F F F Plantain P F F F F F F Summer grass A Pr F * F Pr Pr F Wintergrass A Pr Pr Pr F F Pr F Pr F Pr Control Guide Ask your turf provider when the turf was last fertilised. Mowing You should not mow your new lawn until the turf in firmly rooted in the soil. You can test this by finding a corner of the turf roll and trying to pull it upwards. If the turf pulls upward then you should leave mowing for another week. If the turf stays fixed to the soil by the roots then it’s time for the first mowing. New lawns can have a large amount of growth during the first few weeks in its new home if cared for correctly. When you do undertake the first mowing don’t remove too much of the leaf blade; cut high for the first few times you mow. Reduce the mowing height over a period of time, working to reach the target height after the new lawn is fully established which can take up to two or three months depending on growth and climate. Stress New lawns can suffer from stress so it’s important to keep an eye on the lawn. You need to watch up for signs of dehydration in particular. If the leaves begin to dry out or yellow you should increase the watering frequency until correct hydration is reached. For more information about new lawns contact the team at Daleys Turf.