The document describes a three-day visit to Reilly's Rock, a lodge located within Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary in Swaziland. The lodge and surrounding sanctuary provide a peaceful oasis surrounded by nature, where guests can observe various wildlife from their rooms or during guided tours. Ted Reilly, who grew up on the property and established the sanctuary, gives tours highlighting the sanctuary's conservation efforts and successes in protecting and propagating threatened species.

1. After just 48 hours at Reilly’s
Rock, you may believe that you’ve
been transported to a fairy tale or
into a historical novel. Join us in this
secret garden in Mlilwane, Swaziland.
By Cheryl-Samantha Owen
PARADISE?
The lush and
shady garden
at Reilly’s Rock
creates a sense
of well-being.
TRAVEL
H AVENE
40 WILD WINTER 2015 www.wildcard.co.za

2. TRAVEL
WINTER 2015 WILD 4342 WILD WINTER 2015 www.wildcard.co.za
DAY 1: Check In
W
hen I arrived at Mlilwane
Wildlife Sanctuary, the
light was thick with Af-
rican gold, that magical
time of the day minutes before the sun
drops below the horizon. Winding my
way up the road, I passed a restricted
area signposted as the ‘Roan Antelope
Enclosure’ and further on another sign
heralding my entry to the Royal Botanic
Gardens. Up and up I continued, past
grazing zebra, waterbuck and impala to
what felt like a kingdom within Swazi-
land’s kingdom. Under a canopy of leaves
I arrived at Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge. A
quick glance at the visitors book revealed
the secret of this place: “When you die,
you don’t need to go to Heaven, because
you’re already here.”
Indeed the place exuded peace. Mlil-
wane, after all, is situated in Swaziland’s
Ezulwini Valley, the ‘Valley of Heavens’,
and Reilly’s Rock is a real home away
from home, the perfect place to relax.
The house, once the homestead of Mickey
Reilly, is a vestige of colonial Africa. It
was built in the early 1900s in the old
English style, using stone that was ex-
changed for an ox-wagon. With wide
verandas and beautiful wooden floors,
it evokes a feeling of Elspeth Huxley,
the writer about early colonial days
in Kenya.
There are six en-suite rooms, all bright
and breezy, a step away from the green
grass and botanical trails beyond. Flame
trees adorn the driveway and a giant,
ancient jacaranda tree spreads over the
house and garden, sending shafts of light
dancing across the lawn. The four other
guests were also tuned into the feel of the
place. An Englishman, Peter Boldon, told
me: “It is the only place I have ever sat
still for four hours.”
The interiors at Reilly’s Rock have recently been refurbished and are even more inviting.
The large veranda is an idyllic spot to sit
quietly and enjoy the sense of peace. Break-
fast is served on the adjacent sun deck.
The father of conservation in Swazi-
land, Ted Reilly, turned his childhood
home into Reilly’s Rock lodge.
Reilly’s Rock is situated
on a hilltop with views
of the surrounding hills.
“It is the only place I have ever
sat still for four hours.” – Peter Boldon

3. TRAVEL
WINTER 2015 WILD 4544 WILD WINTER 2015 www.wildcard.co.za
DAY 2: Explore
F
rom dawn the next morning
until the sun shone fierce, I sat
silently behind my camera and
zoom lens, mesmerised by the
characters nibbling in the garden. If Hans
Christian Andersen had visited Reilly’s
it would have fuelled his imagination
forever. Blue duiker were the first to ap-
pear, walking the stage with confidence
as they sampled a smorgasbord of juicy
green leaves. From the wings red duiker
took their cue and gingerly stepped into
the open garden from one of the many
hidden paths in the undergrowth made
by tiny hooves. They didn’t stay long, but
there was always a whisper of their reap-
pearance nearby. Suni and klipspringer
also emerged. Klipspringer are known
for their antics on the bird-feeding table,
much to the delight of the Boldons, who
watched them and the sun-worshipping
crested guineafowl through the open
French doors of their bedroom.
While I tried to follow these little an-
telope by creeping along on my stomach,
Ted Reilly sipped a mug of steaming cof-
fee from his writing desk on the veranda.
He grew up here and no doubt uncovered
all the garden’s secrets as a youngster.
I had met this legendary conservation
figure the night before. He humbly intro-
duced himself to the guests as “Ted”, but
quickly had me engaged in a discussion
about the ivory debate.
After all the animals had bid their
farewells for the morning, Ted took me
on a tour around the game sanctuary.
Sanctuary is the perfect word to describe
the 4 560 hectares of land here, for sev-
eral reasons. For a start, 24 pythons were
removed from a 70-hectare area encom-
passing Mlilwane Hill, which is enclosed
with a predator-proof fence. The small
antelope still have to watch their backs for
eagles, caracal, leopard and baboons, but
they are also safe from dogs and jackals.
This effort to protect the animals is
part of an endangered and threatened
species propagation project within the
sanctuary. The roan antelope breeding
programme started in 2002 is well on its
way to restoring viable populations of the
species to the kingdom.
A ranger quietly guided us to a roan
calf that was less than a week old, curled
up and hiding in the tall grass. “They
make terrible mothers, and often leave
the calves for hours on end while they
wander off grazing. But this one will be
fine,” said Ted. Other animals I met were
red hartebeest, springbok, steenbok and
the dainty oribi. While stalking the roan,
two blue cranes and a ground hornbill
wandered across my path. I changed
course and followed the blue cranes as
they “kraaaank-ed” loudly to their cous-
ins nearby.
Forty-eight hours at Reilly’s is not nearly
enough to experience everything Mlilwane
offers. Rather than walk to the striking
Nyonyane Mountain with its infamous
‘rock of execution’ granite peak, I chose
a more serene afternoon with Rafiki and
Topaz. Horse riding in such a beautiful
landscape is one of life’s great joys, but to
ride alongside zebra, blesbok, impala and
my favourite, warthog, is what makes Af-
rica unique. Chubeka Trails offers riding
adventures to suit your wishes and skill, or
if a mountain bike or open 4x4 vehicle is
more your style, that is an option, too. As
night fell on the hilltop, I sat watching the
resident bush babies and overheard guests
willing an indefinite stay.
“They make terrible
mothers, and often
leave the calves for
hours on end while they
wander off grazing. But
this one will be fine.”
The grasslands of Mlilwane Wildlife
Sanctuary make good habitat for
blue cranes.
A roan calf, less than a week old,
hides in the long grass.

4. TRAVEL
46 WILD WINTER 2015 www.wildcard.co.za
DAY 3: Departure
T
he next morning I wandered
the botanical gardens trail
with Bonginkhosi Gamedze,
Reilly’s gardener. Passing
magnificent old cycads and a plenitude
of aloes, we climbed the easy slope
to the hilltop for a view across Swa-
ziland to the Ndzimba Mountains,
where Swaziland’s royalty are buried.
Walking back to the lodge, past Down
Gran’s Cottage, I picked ripe lychees
from the orchard and then feasted on
home-grown grapefruit as a starter at
breakfast.
Reilly’s is an inspiration because of
the attention to detail, the history, the
people and the effort and commitment
made to conservation here.
Leaving the lodge, I noticed a sign
with the words of Gandhi: “A nation
can be judged by the way its animals
are treated.” Ted said every animal at
Reilly’s is alive thanks to the King of
Swaziland. Both men deserve gratitude
for their success and determination to
protect wildlife at a time when con-
servationists are facing some of their
toughest battles.
Getting there Swaziland is a four-and-a-half hour drive
from Gauteng. Remember to take your passport and vehicle
registration papers for the border crossing.
Accommodation Reilly’s Rock offers the most intimate experience at Mlilwane
Wildlife Sanctuary. The lodge has six elegant double rooms, each with en-suite
bathroom. From R1 005 a person a night, including dinner, bed and breakfast.
Situated below Reilly’s Rock, Down Gran’s Cottage offers self-catering for up to
seven people. With its own campfire set below giant cycads, it is perfect for a pri-
vate group. Cottage rate R2 580. Breakfast and dinner available on request.
Activities Learn more about the wildlife on a guided game drive at sunrise or
sunset (R295 a person). Active sorts will enjoy a mountain-bike tour (from R145) or
game viewing from horseback (from R210).
Reservations +268-2528-3943, www.biggameparks.org
TRIP PLANNER
Dirt roads are a dream in the Toyota Hilux Legend 45.
We enjoyed its rugged power as well as luxurious fea-
tures such as the leather interior and reverse camera.
Reilly’s Rock may be the best
place to add crested guineafowl
to your life list.
A blue duiker grazes contentedly
in front of Down Gran’s Cottage.
Most nights the weather is fine enough to eat around the campfire.