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Romantic Homes and Romantic Adventure Travel in Newfoundland Canada
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SIMPLY ROMANCE:
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2. ⢠"
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Three Cottages
&
an
an Adventure
A longtime family home is the starting point for an incredible journey.
A longtime family home is the starting point for an incredible journey.
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BY M E R Y L S
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B Y M E R Y L S CH O E N B A U M
PHOT
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P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y D O N N A G R II F F I T H
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O M A N T I
3. â˘
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ATLANTIC CANADA PROVINCE OF
Atlantic Canada province of
NEWFOUNDLAND may NOT be the
Newfoundland MAY not BE THE
FIRST place that comes to MIND
first PLACE THAT COMES TO mind
when PLANNING A ROMANTIC,
WHEN planning a romantic,
FUN-FILLED adventureâbut it
fun-filled ADVENTUREâBUT IT
SHOULD be.
should BE.
Ken Sooley knows the area well. Survey
Ken Sooley knows the area well. Survey
there as
documents show his ancestors lived there as
far back as the 1850s, and subsequent generafar back as the 1850s, and subsequent generations set down roots in the coastal community
tions set down roots in the coastal community
as well. For decades, people came from all
as well. For decades, people came from all
over the world to profit from the areaâs prolific
over the world to profit from the area's prolific
fishing grounds. Ken has fond memories of
fishing grounds. Ken has fond memories of
the family home his grandfather built in the
the family home his grandfather built in the
town of Heartâs Delightâwhich is alongside
town of Heart's Delightâwhich is alongside
towns with the equally romantic names of
towns with the equally romantic names of
Heart's
Heart's
Heartâs Desire and Heartâs Content.
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5. "We send you on a
scavenger hunt for
interesting people and
places in an cultural and
natural environment
unmatched anywhere
in the world."
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But in 1994, the fishery closed due to
But in 1994, the fishery closed due to
an economic downturn, putting 40,000
an economic downturn, putting 40,000
residents out of work. The landscape was
residents out of work. The landscape was
changing along with the population.
changing
with
There was an âoutmigrationâ of people
There was
"outmigration" of people
leaving the area in search of jobs. Historic
leaving the area in search of jobs. Historic
homes were being torn down because
homes were being torn down because
they no longer had economic value. Ken
they no longer had economic value. Ken
found the sight painful to watch, and he
found the sight painful watch, and he
set out to find a way to combine the
set
a way to
regionâs breathtaking splendor with his
region's breathtaking splendor with
familyâs three cottages to attract tourism
family's three cottages to attract tourism
back to the area. His passion for advenback to
area. His passion for adventure and his connection to Newfoundture and his connection to Newfoundlandâs coastal villages, homes and
land's
residents, inspired him to form Caperesidents, inspired him
Race
Adventures Inc., with his
Race Cultural Adventures Inc., with his
sister, Sharon Nisbet, serving as its direcsister, Sharon Nisbet, serving as its director of operations. He restored three cottor of operations.
restored three cottages and made them the home bases for
tages and made them the home bases for
a circuit tour. Staying in the romantic
a circuit tour. Staying in the romantic
homes sets the stage for the play that
homes sets the stage for the play that
ensues, with each guest meeting different
ensues, with each guest meeting different
people and having a unique experience.
people and having a unique experience.
Ken describes his venture as a boutique
Ken describes his venture as a boutique
travel company specializing in upbeat,
travel company specializing in upbeat,
self-guided travel experiences at Canadaâs
self-guided travel experiences at Canada's
most eastern
of Newfoundland.
most eastern island of Newfoundland.
âWith spontaneity as your compass and
"With spontaneity as your compass and
Opposite: On the counter of The Hareâs Ears
Opposite: On the counter of The Hare's Ears
cottage kitchen are flowers called lupin,
cottage kitchen are flowers called lupin,
which are local to Newfoundland.
which are local to Newfoundland.
Top: The chandelier in the living room was
Top: The chandelier in the living room was
original to the house. The windows overlook
original to the house. The windows overlook
the cityâs downtown.
the city's downtown.
Left: The floors in the bedroom were new
Left: The floors in the bedroom were new
but were finished to appear older.
but were finished to appear older.
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6. energy as your limit we send you
on a scavenger hunt for interesting
people and places in a cultural
and natural environment
unmatched anywhere in the world",
Ken says. He measures his
companies success by the number
of stories he hears from guest travelers who have enjoyed interacting
have enjoyed
with the locals on their journey.
In addition to the Newfoundland
In addition to the Newfoundland
businesspeople, who are an unbeunbeknownst cast of characters to enterof characters to enterknownst cast
tain the guests the other stars of the
touring company are the three
company
the three
romantic cottages. Each guest
cottages. Each guest
stays in all three cottages as they
cottages as
proceed on their scavenger hunt.
âThe cottages are located within a
"The cottages are located
three-hour proximity of each other,
and each cottage offers a different
each cottage offers a different
measure of Newfoundlandâs intriguNewfoundland's
ing cultural, scenic and sporting
scenic
assets,â Ken explains.
assets,"
Each house is unique and historic,
overlooking the waters o f Newthe waters of
foundland and representing a differfoundland and representing a different aspect of the regionâs lifestyle. âAll
ent aspect of the region's lifestyle. "All
of the Cap eRace cottages are authenof the CapeRace cottages are authentic, renovated homes that housed
renovated
fishermenâs families throughout the
fishermen's families throughout the
early part o f the 20th century,"
early part of the 20th century,â
Sharon says. âKen and I were deterSharon says. "Ken and I were determined to create a sense of history
mined to create a sense o f history
and authenticity in a comfortable,
and authenticity in a comfortable,
simple way so that a stay in any one
simple way so that a stay in any one
of the houses sets our guests not only
of the houses sets our guests not only
Top: The E.I Sooley cottage is nestled along
Top: The EJ Sooley cottage is nestled along
Heartâs Delight harbor. Itâs typical of Port
Heart's Delight harbor. It's typical of Port
Newfoundland residents to paint the gate a
Newfoundland residents to paint the gate a
different color from the rest of the fence.
The extension to the house is called a linney,
The extension to the house is called a linney,
used as an entryway.
used as an entryway.
Right: Pictures of Queen Elizabeth are
Right: Pictures of Queen Elizabeth are
commonly found in outport homes because
commonly found in outport homes because
Newfoundland belonged to England until
Newfoundland belonged to England until
1949. The chairs, hutch and table were
1949.The chairs, hutch and table were
original to house; Ken's father made the table.
original to house; Kenâs father made the table.
Turquoise walls are often seen in the outport.
Turquoise walls are often seen in the outport.
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7. in a real community but also gives them a
a
gives
sense of history and place. We try to keep the
historic houses intact, to ârestoreâ rather than
historic houses intact, to 'restore' rather than
'renovate:
we
use
ârenovate.â Where we cannot restore, we use labor, materials and designs that reflect the history
reflect
history
of the house. With the atmosphere created by
created
original paint colors and vintage fixtures and
o
furnishings, we attempt to reflect the lives off
the people who lived there.. .and to reveal a
thereâŚand reveal
little bit of Newfoundland's charm."
little bit of Newfoundlandâs charm.â
Hare's
John's,
EJ Sooley
Hareâs Ears Cottage in St. Johnâs, the EJ Sooley
House
Heart's
House in Heartâs Delight and the Thomas
Mouland House in Bonavista each had a
Mouland House i n Bonavista each had a
complete infrastructure overhaul, Sharon says.
complete infrastructure overhaul, Sharon says.
The EJ Sooley House was Ken and Sharon's
The EJ Sooley House was Ken and Sharonâs
grandparents' home, built in the late 1930s.
grandparentsâ
"When
âWhen we started renovating the EJ Sooley
EJ Sooley
House, we
to put it back the way
House, we had one goal: to put it back the way
it was
it was when we were kids,â Sharon recalls.
we were kids,"
âWhen CapeRace took the house on as one of
"When CapeRace took the house on as one of
its
realized
its circuit-tour cottages, we realized that the
comfort o guests
and
comfort off guests was paramount, and we
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The EI Sooley kitchen is filled
EJ
with vintage charm. The original
sinkâs chipped surface adds
sink's
character to the room.
character to the room.
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9. L
I
invested in new, expensive mattresses
invested in new, expensive mattresses
and
new dishes and cutand box springs, new dishes and cutlery,
bedding and soft
lery, new bedding and soft furnishings; everything had to reflect the ideal
ings; everything had to reflect the ideal
of our 1960s grandparents' home, even
of our 1960s grandparentsâ home, even
though it might be brand new. Rotting
though it might be brand new. Rotting
windows on the bay side were replaced
windows on the bay side were replaced
with new ones
the origiwith new ones authentic to the original, wooden, double-hung windows. It
nal,
double-hung windows. It
retains
of its original
retains a lot of its original character:
baseboards
baseboards and trim, interior and
exterior doors, floorboards, beadboard
exterior doors, floorboards, beadboard
ceilings. It is a simple fishermanâs family
ceilings. It is a simple fisherman's family
cottage, and its furnishings and fixtures
cottage, and its furnishings and fixtures
reflect this. Most of the furnishings are
reflect this. Most of the furnishings are
authentic to the house, purchased by
authentic
house, purchased by
our grandparents. The dressers, nightour grandparents. The dressers, nightstands, cabinets, kitchen table, wringer
stands, cabinets, kitchen table, wringer
washing machine, etc., were from our
washing machine, etc., were from our
grandparents. We scour secondhand
grandparents.
scour secondhand
stores, charity shops and antiques
stores,
antiques
stores for furniture, vintage curtains,
stores
vintage curtains,
framed pictures, dishes, teapots, etc.,
dishes, teapots, etc.,
framed
for
houses,
we were
for all our houses, but we were fortunate to inherit many of our grandnate
many of our
parentsâ things. Our ancestors were
parents'
ancestors were
originally from the south country of
originally from the south country of
England, so we kept many pictures of
England, so we kept many pictures of
Queen Elizabeth and her family on
Queen
her family on
the walls."
the walls.â
The site of the 110-year-old Thomas
The site of the 110-year-old Thomas
Mouland house, in Mockbeggar,
Mouland house, i n Mockbeggar,
Bonavista, boasts a romantic pedigree.
Bonavista, boasts a romantic pedigree.
âBonavista is the âlandfallâ where John
"Bonavista is the 'landfall' where John
Cabot discovered North America," Ken
Cabot discovered North America,â Ken
says. The cottageâs architecture is called
says. The cottage's architecture is called
"Biscuit Box." The decor of this house
âBiscuit Box.â The dĂŠcor of this house
was unplanned; it received the handwas unplanned; it received the handme-downs from the other cottages.
me-downs from the other cottages.
Hareâs Ears Cottage, in St. Johnâs, has
Hare's Ears Cottage, in St. John's, has
three bedrooms and an open-concept
three bedrooms and an open-concept
kitchen on the second floor. There is a
kitchen on the second floor. There is a
Top: The EJ Sooley bedroom features a
Top: The El Sooley bedroom features a
charming blue nightstand with a harp
charming blue nightstand with a harp
carving for hanging towels.
carving for hanging towels.
Left: Ken purchased the yellow-framed mirror
Left: Ken purchased the yellow-framed mirror
above the nightstand as it was a similar
above the nightstand as it was a similar
color to the original cottageâs interior trim.
color to the original cottage's interior trim.
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10. Right: The cabinets in the Thomas Mouland
The
cottage kitchen were handmade by a local
They
carpenter as were the windows. They were
crafted with 100-year-old glass to maintain
with 100-year-old
the effect of the original house. Ken bought
the stove for $25 from a classified ad in the
local Buy and Sell newspaper.
local Buy and Sell newspaper.
Below: Vintage glass bottles with local
soft-drink manufacturersâ labels were
manufacturers'
found on the property.
Opposite: This unique staircase is a highlight
Opposite: This unique staircase is a highlight
of the Thomas Mouland house. The kitchen
The
floor was covered with large, colorful canvas
was covered with large, colorful canvas
floor
sheets. As they wore out, homeowners put
sheets. As they wore out, homeowners put
new pieces on top of older ones for layers of
new pieces on top of older ones for layers of
insulation. Several years later, there was an
insulation. Several years later, there was an
inch of spongy, damaged flooring. Ken put
inch of spongy, damaged flooring. Ken put
pieces of them on the staircase to display
pieces of them on the staircase to display
the history of the house, adhering them to
the history of the house, adhering them to
the steps with upholstery tacks.
the steps with upholstery tacks.
separate suite on the ground floor with
a bathroom. This house was chosen for
a bathroom. This house was chosen for
the tour due to its location in the historic
the tour due to its location in the historic
Battery Village of St. John's. âKen conJohnâs. "Ken
siders the two St. John's Houses as the
Johnâs
'urban'
Newfoundland,"
âurbanâ and 'new' of Newfoundland,â
ânewâ
Sharon says. âWhile the furnishings and
says. "While the
overall design might be described as
design might be described as
nautical, it is not that obvious. The
it
linens, bedding, tea towels and washbedding, tea towels and washcloths are black, white or redâthere's
are
redâthereâs
nothing frilly in the St. John's houses.
nothing frilly in the St. Johnâs houses.
All the rooms are painted white; the color
All the rooms are painted white; the color
comes from the accessoriesâsome are
comes from the accessoriesâsome are
vintage finds, but most are interesting
vintage finds, but most are interesting
items that reflect Newfoundland.â
Newfoundland"
The CapeRace circuit tour has received
The CapeRace circuit tour has received
praise from guests as well as travel magapraise from guests as well as travel magazines. National Geographic honored it as
zines. National Geographic honored it as
one of its âTop 50 Tours of a Lifetimeâ in
one of its "Top 50 Tours of a Lifetime" in
their
2010. Guests have told Ken that their best
experience was a conversation they had
experience was a conversation they had
with someone along the way, not seeing a
with someone along the way, not seeing a
particular site. âThey hear stories and
particular site. "They hear stories and
they come back with stories, they will, in
they come back with stories, they will, in
turn, tell and remember," he says. âThe
turn, tell and remember,â he says. "The
romance is being lost in people's lives
romance is being lost in peopleâs lives
because they are too busy. The journey
because they are too busy. The journey
is as important as the destination.â
is as important as the destination."
S E E S H O P P II N G G U I ID E , , P A G E 9 4 ..
SEE S H O P P N G G U D E P A G E 9 4
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12. Thomas Mouland bedroom has a
Thomas Mouland bedroom has a
hand-painted canvas mat, which
was common to the area's homes.
was common to the areaâs homes.
The handmade wooden barrel
The handmade wooden barrel
was used for shipping fish from
the outports to Europe and the
Europe
Caribbean. The black ties around
Caribbean. The black ties around
the barrel are tree limbs.
the barrel are tree limbs.
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13. In the turn of the century,
In the turn of the century,
Newfoundland homeowners
Newfoundland homeowners
used whatever wood was
used whatever wood was
available to them from the
available to them from the
local area, Ken explains. This
local area, Ken explains. This
floor in the Thomas Mouland
floor in the Thomas Mouland
cottage bathroom is likely a
cottage bathroom is likely a
soft wood, painted brown.
soft wood, painted brown.
Ken found the tub via a
Ken found the tub via a
classified ad section in the
classified ad section in the
local newspaper.
local newspaper.
CapeRace Cultural Adventures Inc.
CapeRace Cultural Adventures Inc.
38 Outer Battery Road
38 Outer Battery Road
St. Johnâs Newfoundland
St. John's Newfoundland
A1A 1A7
AlA 1A7
(709) 351-6660
(709) 351-6660
mail@caperace.com ⢠www.caperace.com
mail@caperace.com ⢠www.caperace.com
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